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*Warning* - long post... oh, and some 3.5 swappers may flip out after reading this... J/K
So I got on the dyno this morning to finish up my tuning on the cammed DEK, seeing as I'm heading to the track tomorrow for one last hurrah with the 3L to hopefully beat my PB with it before putting the 3.5 in. So obviously I wanted it running and tuned up in top notch shape for tomorrow.
Anyways, I started off with just a straight baseline pull to see where it was at, and it put down about 246 whp. But viewing the loggers I could see it needed some tuning, so after 10-12 pulls and a bunch of playing with fuel and ignition timing I had it running up around 263 whp. Once I optimized it at that level then it was time to open the cutout and make some noise! I did so and after a little more tweaking I just about hit 270 whp at 7500 rpm, actually it came out as 269.87.
So it goes without saying I'm happy with that. Interestingly enough, the modeling I'd done before building the engine predicted around 275 whp at 7700 rpm, and I was skeptical at the time that it was accurate (never fully trust software lol), but hey the program was just about bang on. It does require meticulously measuring and inputing data to get that close though.
So below I've posted 2 graphs, the first one is the best run from today, and the second is just a fun comparison with my 220whp run from 2005 (with stock DE cams and 00VI). The cams have obviously shifted the power band as one would expect, although I have changed more than just cams between the 2005 dyno to now.
You'll notice the dip in the first graph at 6500 rpms, that spans approximately 200 rpms - that unfortunately is unavoidable and is due to the EU adding fuel to get past the stock limiter. There is a momentary rich spike that drops out the power for a split second, but keep in mind that 200 rpms goes by VERY quickly, especially in the lower gears and is almost unnoticeable in the car. It looks big and ugly on the DJ graph, but in reality affects the performance of the car barely at all. I can positively say that the car pulls pretty smoothly through that area, even in 3rd and 4th gear, despite how it looks.
A couple more thoughts: calculating out the crank horsepower gives me somewhere in the 315 range, meaning this engine is doing easily 100 hp per litre. Woot! Also, you can see that it really would have liked to rev to 8000-8200 rpm, if the oil pump/bottom end would have allowed... peak would have been around 7700 or so I believe, probably 273, 274 whp, or something like that. But I am not taking it higher than 7500/7600 now, don't want to blow another pump.
Oh, guess I should post the engine mod list applicable to today's dyno as well:
man thats awesome. i'm not a huge performance guy but i do plan on doing a nice all-motor build in the future. might wanna block me from your aim ahead of time.
It's near what I want to make in power on a 3.0. Gives me some more motivation for my own build. With the right combination these 3.0s don't have a problem with making power up top, just a problem staying together.
__________________
- Joe
1996 KH3 Maxima SE - 222 WHP / 208 WTQ SAE corrected @ 209,000 miles, VQ30DEK swap
(5 spd - project car, never ending money pit )
It's near what I want to make in power on a 3.0. Gives me some more motivation for my own build. With the right combination these 3.0s don't have a problem with making power up top, just a problem staying together.
There is definitely more power available in the engine if one were to get the heads ported and do up the bottom end to rev mid 8000's, bump compression etc. But I wasn't prepared to invest that much in it. I'm focused on my 3.5 now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Lower fuel temp?
Yes, significantly. And as a bonus, simpler plumbing with the engine swap etc...
Quote:
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Power valve removed = close to gutted, that's all I needed to know.
To me that's not gutted at all... lots of material left inside there still if one wanted to truly gut it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
If you massage them they will relax a little which will improve flow.
Tried that, all I got was a couple of blisters for my trouble.
__________________
2000. 3L. 5-spd. Black on black. SE. (DD)
1998. 3L. 5-spd. Sterling Mist. SE. (fun car)
1/4 mile stats (all N/A VQ30):
Best 60': 1.73
Best ET & trap: 12.61, 108.98 mph
Click to see the video. More videos also here.
Mods list and dyno here (as of May 9/08).
My EU writeup can be found at VQ Power.
Great #'s
Are the hr springs & shims you used Stronger or cheaper than the JWT set?
im planning to rev up to 7500 with jwt springs in my 3.5, what do you think?
There is definitely more power available in the engine if one were to get the heads ported and do up the bottom end to rev mid 8000's, bump compression etc. But I wasn't prepared to invest that much in it. I'm focused on my 3.5 now.
I want to hear it at eight grand.
In fact, I want to hear it at mid 7s... where are your sound clips dammit
Quote:
To me that's not gutted at all... lots of material left inside there still if one wanted to truly gut it.
Alright, but removing the power valve >> regular 00vi for top-end, we can agree on that...
Quote:
Tried that, all I got was a couple of blisters for my trouble.
You are not using the proper swedish injector massage oil I also heard sweet talking them one at a time before a run can help
HEHE, My car is being built exactly like dandy's except I'll be adding a few other things here and there. Could I be the first VQ to break the 300whp mark Its not gonna happen I know.........
__________________
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Comp G
|3.5" Intake Bpi/R2C|Ram Air|3.4" Pulley|180* T-stat|Headers|Corvette Brakes|SSC Lowering|KYB|LEDs everywhere|GXP parts|SE Parts|
Want a Plug and Play Harness for your Emanage Ult/Blue? CLICK HERE!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Thank you Dave. I love you Dave.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
...so i had to get towed out of a ditch last night...
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 05-11-2008 at 02:04 AM.
Good luck getting another 30whp over dandy with "a few other things" if you pull 100whp/liter off I will be very impressed to say the least, especially on an auto
(I assume you're going to swap to a manual before you do build the motor...)
Good luck getting another 30whp over dandy with "a few other things" if you pull 100whp/liter off I will be very impressed to say the least, especially on an auto
(I assume you're going to swap to a manual before you do build the motor...)
a man can dream....
__________________
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Comp G
|3.5" Intake Bpi/R2C|Ram Air|3.4" Pulley|180* T-stat|Headers|Corvette Brakes|SSC Lowering|KYB|LEDs everywhere|GXP parts|SE Parts|
Want a Plug and Play Harness for your Emanage Ult/Blue? CLICK HERE!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Thank you Dave. I love you Dave.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
...so i had to get towed out of a ditch last night...
Great #'s
Are the hr springs & shims you used Stronger or cheaper than the JWT set?
im planning to rev up to 7500 with jwt springs in my 3.5, what do you think?
Which cams (ie how much lift?). Check out this graph. It tells the story. The HR springs + shim set are slightly cheaper than JWT from DaveB IIRC.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
I want to hear it at eight grand.
In fact, I want to hear it at mid 7s... where are your sound clips dammit
I may yet make another video or 2 before pulling the engine out of the car. In the interim I'm working on videos from the track yesterday.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Alright, but removing the power valve >> regular 00vi for top-end, we can agree on that...
Yes. That's part of the reason my 2005-2008 comparison shows a loss before 5000 rpm. And the cams play into it a bit too, especially lower down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Good luck getting another 30whp over dandy with "a few other things" if you pull 100whp/liter off I will be very impressed to say the least, especially on an auto
(I assume you're going to swap to a manual before you do build the motor...)
The 100 hp/L mark is based on estimated crank numbers, tranny shouldn't matter if you use the appropriate loss percentage when back-calculating the crank # from the whp number.
__________________
2000. 3L. 5-spd. Black on black. SE. (DD)
1998. 3L. 5-spd. Sterling Mist. SE. (fun car)
1/4 mile stats (all N/A VQ30):
Best 60': 1.73
Best ET & trap: 12.61, 108.98 mph
Click to see the video. More videos also here.
Mods list and dyno here (as of May 9/08).
My EU writeup can be found at VQ Power.
not to flame the thread or anything cause DANDYMAX is the Motherfu....man but where is the "power valve" in the OOVI. Obviously dandy ur not going to tell us all ur secrets but i'm trying to hit 200whp in my dek swapped auto. I hit 180whp now...i have a vafc...what do you recommend to best get me to my goal and beyond?
__________________
DEK INSIDE......
5speed swap'd
Budget Y-pipe
DMH e-cutout
30% all the way around
Ksport 36-way coilovers
VAFC II
AEM Uego Wideband
6000k HID
Coming soon --??hmm--
not to flame the thread or anything cause DANDYMAX is the Motherfu....man but where is the "power valve" in the OOVI. Obviously dandy ur not going to tell us all ur secrets but i'm trying to hit 200whp in my dek swapped auto. I hit 180whp now...i have a vafc...what do you recommend to best get me to my goal and beyond?
ahah yea man...i wish i could do that...but idk like i've paid for everything that i've done to my car and my parents said the car is devalued which it is because of the dek swap but because i don't plan on selling anytime soon i don't understand what there hesitation is on me swapping to a manual. But they did say i could do the 3.5 which makes no sense and seeing the power that dandy made out of the 3.0 makes me just wanna keep this to see how much more i can extract.
__________________
DEK INSIDE......
5speed swap'd
Budget Y-pipe
DMH e-cutout
30% all the way around
Ksport 36-way coilovers
VAFC II
AEM Uego Wideband
6000k HID
Coming soon --??hmm--
The 100 hp/L mark is based on estimated crank numbers, tranny shouldn't matter if you use the appropriate loss percentage when back-calculating the crank # from the whp number.
Um yeah, just go ahead and ignore my last comment, must have had some kind of brain fart. When I go back and re-read your/his posts now it all makes sense. Carry on..
__________________
2000. 3L. 5-spd. Black on black. SE. (DD)
1998. 3L. 5-spd. Sterling Mist. SE. (fun car)
1/4 mile stats (all N/A VQ30):
Best 60': 1.73
Best ET & trap: 12.61, 108.98 mph
Click to see the video. More videos also here.
Mods list and dyno here (as of May 9/08).
My EU writeup can be found at VQ Power.
Hah ok ignore my last comment, I went back and re-read your/his posts... I mis-read the first time. Carry on..
dandy- any opinions to my above post? if you want we can talk through pm
__________________
DEK INSIDE......
5speed swap'd
Budget Y-pipe
DMH e-cutout
30% all the way around
Ksport 36-way coilovers
VAFC II
AEM Uego Wideband
6000k HID
Coming soon --??hmm--
ahah yea man...i wish i could do that...but idk like i've paid for everything that i've done to my car and my parents said the car is devalued which it is because of the dek swap but because i don't plan on selling anytime soon i don't understand what there hesitation is on me swapping to a manual. But they did say i could do the 3.5 which makes no sense and seeing the power that dandy made out of the 3.0 makes me just wanna keep this to see how much more i can extract.
Screw a 3.5, you've already got the DE-K in the car. Don't listen to your parents. If you're paying for it, it shouldn't matter what they say unless you plan on selling your car sometime soon. Just run the DE-K into the the ground like me and be happy
5 speed swap+EU=220 whp
__________________
-----5-speed DE-K with 205 whp and 199 wtq SAE corrected-----
-------Shortened Koni Yellows/Eibachs, Cobra/Q45/Hawk/SS-------
--SFC S.2, LTB S.2, RSB, FSTB, TB's (removed!), all ES bushings--
-------------Enkei RPM2/Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus-------------