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Dyno Discussion and Slips Discussion and a moderated "Dyno Slips" sub-forum to allow for posting of dyno slips.

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Old 04-09-2008, 10:20 AM   #1
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2k3 6spd all bolt on plus JWT cams.

207WHP and 236WTQ.

WTF is wrong with the car ?
-Fidenza light weight flywheel
-Spec stage 2 clutch
-Cattman gen 3 header
-Cattman Catback
-UDP
-SSIM
-IM spacers
-Intake
-JWT s1 cams
etc.

4th Gear pull did it like 3 times same result. The car also has lightweight 17" wheels etc..DOnt htink that matters though.

THe AFR was constant between 12-14 on the AEM wideband..at WOT till redline.


The check engine light is on/off on the car depending on weather i think . Its a misfire code... the tech said its becasue of the cams. Car does not pull as hard as it use to AT ALL... i have a 3.0 MAF in there... i dont know if thats the problem. (am600 2k3 maf was to expensive)

Stock the car dynoed at about the same power jsut alot less TQ... so i KNOW something is up.

Anything you guys suggest i should check.....
This was on a mustang dyno.
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:21 AM   #2
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Got runfiles?

EDIT: Nevermind just realized you said Mustang dyno. I know those things can be high or low depending on the parameters, but wouldn't expect the differential to be that much between your whp and tq. The tq number is still decent I guess. Hopefully your charts will shed a little light on my the peak whp is so low.

Last edited by Puppetmaster; 04-09-2008 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:23 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster View Post
Got runfiles?
I got the graph they printed out but dont have a scanner it has some info on it... ill take apicture of it and post up a little later.. Ghetto way.

Im about to sell this fuking car.
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:42 AM   #4
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Did it start to act up AFTER the cam install? Only thing I can think of is improper cam install. May have jumped time. Do you have access to a compression tester?
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:53 AM   #5
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Yeah if it started acting up after the cams, which seems to be what you are trying to say, and it's now throwing a missfire code... I'm going to have to agree with nismology about the improper cam install. There's alot of chances to screw something up while installing cams, especially if they are lined up wrong or even warped from improper torquing.

Are your plugs/coils ok btw?
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:58 AM   #6
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No it was "sluggish" even before the cams were installed.

Yes i have a compression tester.. i will check compression this weekend..and will check timing on the car as well and report back.

If the cams were off i believe it would have a constant SES light on ... this one goes away for a couple days and then returns for a couple days etc. Also the car is getting AWFUL Gas milage at WOT... you can see the damn gas needle drop under WOT ..WTF... it was never like this b4... and the AF is steady at like 13ish...

Another thing i noticed is 1ce in a while when i go WOT and then throw the car into neutral the rpms will drop VERY low and the car will shut off. It was doing this ALOT when the weather was colder and the SES light wouldnt go away, now that its warmer the SES light went away and it doesnt do it anymore.

Plugs were just changed... and im doing a resitance test on the coils this week... but they do seem to be ok.....

*** ohhh biggest issue... right after the cams were done there was maybe a CUP full of CLEAN oil in the Intake manifold... i mean i just POURED it out, i changed the PCV and havent checked since i will also check whats up with that this weekend****

SOmetimes i just wish i had a FAST STOCK car.
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Last edited by NiSmOVQ35; 04-09-2008 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:43 PM   #7
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Don't we all. If I'm around this weekend maybe I'll stop by and see whats up.
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiSmOVQ35 View Post
207WHP and 236WTQ.

WTF is wrong with the car ?
-Fidenza light weight flywheel
-Spec stage 2 clutch
-Cattman gen 3 header
-Cattman Catback
-UDP
-SSIM
-IM spacers
-Intake
-JWT s1 cams
etc.
etc?
Quote:
Originally Posted by NiSmOVQ35 View Post
i have a 3.0 MAF in there... i dont know if thats the problem. (am600 2k3 maf was to expensive)
It doesn't matter if you're using the 3.0 MAF, they're the same thing aside from the IAT. The IAT wont affect power, many members use this MAF with a 3.5. What you should do is transplant the IAT over and possibly get a reflash. You might want to read this: Upgrading to stronger 2k1 MAF?
Quote:
Originally Posted by NiSmOVQ35 View Post
Stock the car dynoed at about the same power jsut alot less TQ... so i KNOW something is up.
Was this dyno also on the same Mustang dyno? And if so, were the same vehicle parameters used?
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:02 PM   #9
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what code(s) do you get?

....KS?
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:06 PM   #10
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Apparently it's a misfire code.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:12 PM   #11
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Ah, I thought he said "I think its a misfire code".

Do you have the EU in?
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OP
The check engine light is on/off on the car depending on weather i think . Its a misfire code..
That's what he said, but there was a period in there.

I wonder what etc. means. If he does have EU, he might have fried some coils, BUT, I'd hate to start jumping to conclusions so quickly.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NmexMAX View Post
That's what he said, but there was a period in there.

I wonder what etc. means. If he does have an EU, he might have fried some coils, BUT, I'd hate to start jumping to conclusions so quickly.
The improper spacing got me.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:19 AM   #14
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It WAS a misfire code but gone now.. car still doesnt pull hard..revs but jsut doesnt really move. No SES light.

THe EU is not in yet.

I dont know it the "parameters" were set right.... but other cars were getting decent numbers.. im ganna try out another dyno just to see whats up soon.
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Old 04-10-2008, 07:53 PM   #15
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Do the compression test first. If you have access do a leak down test as well. In terms of oil in the intake, do you have a catch can? If not you should invest in one.
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:30 PM   #16
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Well my Maxima with GAB/H/E/SSIM/SAFC-2 (tuned) only laid down 210whp on a Mustang dyno and my car also does what you were saying about when you give it WOT and then put it in neutral and it dies...maybe there is a common problem here, also my car has no SES lights and seems to be running fine though???
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:51 PM   #17
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Finally found a thread where people are experiencing my same issue. It doesnt happen always but if i am WOT then Neutral the rpms drop so low the car turns off. Although it doesnt happen often i have noticed some what of a connection with how many things i am running on at the time. If my headlights, radio, and heat are on the car DOES NOT shut off. If nothing is on the rpms tend to drop so low the car doesnt recover and it shuts off.

Back on topic, i want cams so bad but it seems theres a bit of high risk involved in installing them. Especially the jwt cams on a vq30dek since you have to remove the valve springs.
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:18 AM   #18
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Sounds like a lack of vaccuum caused by the cams. The duration might be too long (or lift too high).

One way of fixing it is to increase timing/fuel at idle and increase idle RPM, but I don't know if you have the ability to do so without a piggyback or standalone ECU.
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:02 AM   #19
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The cams themselves are definitely not the problem. They are not that aggressive at all.. 260/260 and ~10.9mm lift.


My guess is the motor jumped time upon initial startup or it wasn't timed correctly in the first place. A compression test that results in unequal bank-to-bank compression will point to this.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:12 AM   #20
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Sounds like Phxblu's same problem. Sorta Oldschool
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Old 04-11-2008, 02:40 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismology View Post
The cams themselves are definitely not the problem. They are not that aggressive at all.. 260/260 and ~10.9mm lift.
Just curious, do you know the effective duration at 1mm (260 looks like advertised duration)? What are the lobe centerlines?
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Old 04-11-2008, 02:50 PM   #22
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222.5* @ .050" and 123/112 (advanced 2 degrees relative to stock on the intake side). Not too aggressive at all.
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:39 AM   #23
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Did you mean 123 or 113 on the intake cam? If the stock LC was 119 then advancing the intake by 2* would make it 115.

Sorry, just trying to figure out how the powerband will look by the numbers.
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Old 04-12-2008, 06:02 AM   #24
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doing the compression test.. leak down test..opening up the IM ..etc etc ALL today.. also goign to do a Vacuum test.. SES JUST CAME ON !! in time for my to scan and see wtf is up... i will also check timing with the snap-on reader....

Will report back tonight...
-Changing oil..
-Plugs
-Coils
-Putting on Catch can
-a grounding kit
-fixing timing if off... and advancing to 17*

The going to hit the dyno again.
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:24 AM   #