Ever since then I've been able to put in a WSP Q'Clone Catback and did the SSIM. Granted this was done at a different dyno, but it gives me a good idea of what power Im making compared to before, and it definatly confirms what I thought happened with my powerband...
(I reversed the colors on te printout to make it easier to see the llines)
Only thing I have left to do now is some timing advance via the SAFC (my FP is at 55psi, and my most correction is at 4500rpm with -20%) I plan on raising FP to 65 and correcting FTW (no money for an EU for a while so this will do for now, lol). Also the new OBX headers will be done sometime this summer. I will redyno after that and see whats going on.
Anyways, now that I know everything is good with the engine, all I need is some DRs and Im ready to go to the track again :-D
Ever since then I've been able to put in a WSP Q'Clone Catback and did the SSIM. Granted this was done at a different dyno, but it gives me a good idea of what power Im making compared to before, and it definatly confirms what I thought happened with my powerband...
Only thing I have left to do now is some timing advance via the SAFC (my FP is at 55psi, and my most correction is at 4500rpm with -20%) I plan on raising FP to 65 and correcting FTW (no money for an EU for a while so this will do for now, lol). Also the new OBX headers will be done sometime this summer. I will redyno after that and see whats going on.
Anyways, now that I know everything is good with the engine, all I need is some DRs and Im ready to go to the track again :-D
Well - that sure looks healthy!! You should be ready for the track now...
As soon as our weather gets above freezing here, I'm setting my car up on jackstands and getting on with my OBX installation. Got some stainless welding rod and four bung/plug kits, so maybe I can get the OBX set installed well enough to get to the exhaust shop for the 3" Y-pipe conversion.
Well - that sure looks healthy!! You should be ready for the track now...
As soon as our weather gets above freezing here, I'm setting my car up on jackstands and getting on with my OBX installation. Got some stainless welding rod and four bung/plug kits, so maybe I can get the OBX set installed well enough to get to the exhaust shop for the 3" Y-pipe conversion.
Wuts up harl, how much you looking for those wheels? Iv been thinking of getting rid of my slicks and getting DR's since i dont even launch on boost anyways dont think full out slicks i have are needed and im not doing high stall tc anytime soon either.
Wuts up harl, how much you looking for those wheels? Iv been thinking of getting rid of my slicks and getting DR's since i dont even launch on boost anyways dont think full out slicks i have are needed and im not doing high stall tc anytime soon either.
That's why you should spray something on launch. Maybe a 50-shot up to the point where you build enough boost in first, then cut off spray and run on boost. That would give you an extra kick in the a**....
NmexMax- Well to stick to my reputation, no thumbdrive, so no run files, lol. Thus, no SAE corrected #s. I just went to this dyno due to it being a dyno day with the cheap price, otherwise I would have gone to the place I went for the previous 217/227 dyno (Fynetune) as they have SAE #s and they could email me the runfiles.
I mainly went because A- it was cheap, and B- SAE or STD, it shows pretty accurately the shape of the curves. I just wanted to confirm my butt-dyno findings. For my next dyno I will do so at that other location. and C- I wanted to be sure my a/f ratio was in check (no $ for wideband yet, so this is how I find out my a/f, lol)
I wish I had access locally to some sort of logging device. A friend of ours had a scanner a few months back, but it belongs to the shop he works at. Dont know if he still has access to it. Im curious as to my timing as well.
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