DetailingDiscuss how to make your car sparkly clean for car shows, local meets, or any other reason. What products do others use and how do we get them? Get your questions answered in here.
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I'v had tints on my car since the day I got it....which would make it close to 9 years now. I know that removing tints is going to be hard, but how can I do it?
(NJ sucks -- i get a ticket at least once every 2 months...got sick of paying 50 bucks a pop)
I'v had tints on my car since the day I got it....which would make it close to 9 years now. I know that removing tints is going to be hard, but how can I do it?
(NJ sucks -- i get a ticket at least once every 2 months...got sick of paying 50 bucks a pop)
No its cops that sucks because they know its an easy violation. But you can either take it somewhere and get it done usually under 100bucks. Or if you do yourself you can use a tool to scrape at the coners of the tint than start to peel the tint off it usually will peel right off. Once the tint is off the glue is left and you have to find something to remove the glue I heard gasoline works good but I used hot water and a bunch of goo gone takes a while but will get it done.
a tint shop will usually charge about $20/window to remove.. best way is to warm up your window (even w/ a blow dryer) use a blade/knife to lift an edge, peel the film off, and all the glue will come off w/ water and a blade.. hold the blade on a 15degree anglee and work in horiz. strokes (found it to work best..) good luck
The side windows should peel right off as described above. But the rear window is a different story, especially if your rear defroster works and you want to keep it that way. On a sunny day what you are going to want to do for that is cut a black yard trash bag so that it will cover your whole rear window. Now take a spray bottle with water and a little dish soap and SOAK the inside (tinted side) of the window with the water and soap solution, then stick the trash bag to that same side of the window and let it bake in the sun for about an hour. Basically do this first so while it is baking you can be stripping the other windows and by the time you are done it should be ready to come off.
Now that the glue on that back window has been baking for about an hour it should be nice and manageable. Take the trash bag off the window and with a razor blade get under one corner of the tint and lift it up so that you can grab it with your hand. Now you are going to want to peel it back over it's self. If you let the window bake long enough you should have no problem peeling the tint off now. If it starts to rip it just needs to bake longer, peel off what you can an bake it again to get the remaining tint.
As far as removing the glue, for the side windows just spray the water/soap solution on the window and run a razor across the window a bunch of times, it should only take you about 5 minutes max per window to remove the glue. For the rear window use the same water/soap solution and a steel wool pad only going side to side, not up and down. This will take longer than the side windows, obviously, but not too long and you will not damage your rear defrosters.
Well if your removing tint you're removing everything, at least I would the car would look ridiculous with no tint except on the rear window. In my opinion at least.
Thanks, will do....actually i don't have to worry about the rear window....believe it or not...my car was parked in a paid lot, next to a crappy building ...some bricks* may or may have not fallen off the building and right through my rear window....that bad boy had to be replaced and boom, no more tints...i thought about doing that with my other windows...but it would probably cost more money...gulp
the pros use a steamer to remove tint. the trick is to remove the film AND glue together.
for the sides spray with soapy water and ammonia mixed together. the combination will soften the glue. pick a hot day and spray it on but don't let it dry. after a few min try and pull the tint off w/ the glue. spray the solution between the glass and the pulled tint. once it's off use a white scrubbie pad to get the remainder off using the same solution. you MUST use a white one...green or red will scratch the glass.
do the same for the rear and follow the procedure for the black trash bag on the rear. it has to be a sunny/warm day. don't let the solution dry out. if it dries out spray more. 10-15 min go back there and pull the tint off. use the white pad to scrub the glue off the glass. if done right there should be ZERO damage to the defrosters.
Just peel tint off. Then get window scraper, spray windex on window, and scrape from bottom to top, glue will come off like butter. You will have to scrape straight across along rubber at the bottom. I just did it last month, I had to go through inspection. Make sure you don't roll window down with glue on window, it will get all over the rubber at the bottom and you will have alot of trouble getting off of there.
What most of these guys aren't taking in to account is the fact that the film has been on the car for 9 years. Depending on the film brand, this may or may not make a difference. If the film looks distorted when you look threw the window or if it appears extremely purple this is going to be more of a PITA that one may assume. If the film is still in good shape then yes, most of the ways above are great ways and will work fine. Use a box blade and peal the edge of the film back (top rear corner on front doors and top front on rear doors) and pull slowly. Adhesive will be left on the window... I use water and baby shampoo (just a few drops in a spray bottle work fine). Saturate window and let it set for a min. or so. Come back and spray again, then top to bottom with the blade. As stated above, watch out for the wet glue on the lower window gasket. Once it gets on that felt is sucks to get off.
Now..... if the film is in bad shape (purple, dried out, distorted) you will have a hard time getting it to come off in one piece. The film will de-laminate (the clear layer will come off and the ink layer will stay adhered to the glass) and will tear off in to shreds. The best solution would in most cases be a cheap heat gun from Lowe's or Home Depot. If you can get your hands on a steamer do it. You want to keep constant heat on the area you are about to peal off. Heat in small areas at a time. Don't try to heat the entire window at one time then peel, it won't work. Don't be afraid to hold the film and pull as you heat. Just watch out for finger tips and rubber/plastic in the car.
Hope this helps.
Josh
**EDIT**
And If you use Gas....dude.....
__________________
02 6 speed, Meridian package, HLSD, 04 Tranny internals, H Techs, Illuminas, G35 coupe 18s, Megan Cat back, E.S. shifter bushings, J.W.T. Pop charger, NWP VIAS block off plate, 350Z injectors, 12% window tint, Silver front corner markers, Luminics yellow fogs, AVIC D3, J.L. Audio 500W mono block sub amp, Memphis M3 500 RMS 12" sub
**Owned but not installed yet**
Clutch Masters stage 1,
What most of these guys aren't taking in to account is the fact that the film has been on the car for 9 years. Depending on the film brand, this may or may not make a difference. If the film looks distorted when you look threw the window or if it appears extremely purple this is going to be more of a PITA that one may assume. If the film is still in good shape then yes, most of the ways above are great ways and will work fine. Use a box blade and peal the edge of the film back (top rear corner on front doors and top front on rear doors) and pull slowly. Adhesive will be left on the window... I use water and baby shampoo (just a few drops in a spray bottle work fine). Saturate window and let it set for a min. or so. Come back and spray again, then top to bottom with the blade. As stated above, watch out for the wet glue on the lower window gasket. Once it gets on that felt is sucks to get off.
Now..... if the film is in bad shape (purple, dried out, distorted) you will have a hard time getting it to come off in one piece. The film will de-laminate (the clear layer will come off and the ink layer will stay adhered to the glass) and will tear off in to shreds. The best solution would in most cases be a cheap heat gun from Lowe's or Home Depot. If you can get your hands on a steamer do it. You want to keep constant heat on the area you are about to peal off. Heat in small areas at a time. Don't try to heat the entire window at one time then peel, it won't work. Don't be afraid to hold the film and pull as you heat. Just watch out for finger tips and rubber/plastic in the car.
Hope this helps.
Josh
**EDIT**
And If you use Gas....dude.....
i would say yes to this if the car was old...like in the 80s or early 90s.
if it's a 5th gen then unless the tint was total crap quality then it shouldn't be as bad as you described.
i would say yes to this if the car was old...like in the 80s or early 90s.
if it's a 5th gen then unless the tint was total crap quality then it shouldn't be as bad as you described.
My 5.5 gen tint is ****ty and purpling
Tint came on the car when I bought it and now it desperately needs to be redone...I think I'll just pay someone to remove it.
__________________ LTB, RSB, FSTB, H-techs and Illuminas, 6.5 gen wheels, 6th gen front brakes
PB: 14.338 @ 98.27 with a 2.300 60' stock.
I also live in NJ and I am trying to decide what to do about tints.
NJ law says you can't do the front windows. That means you can have the back window and the rear doors done.
I had trouble with the police with my Acura several years back and peeled the front windows off with a heat gun and the ammonia mixture. Went okay. The car didn't look too bad with the rear quarter windows and the back still tinted.
How will a 5.5 gen look?? I'd really like to tint since it gets pretty hot here and any tint will help, but I don't want the car to look bad.
i would say yes to this if the car was old...like in the 80s or early 90s.
if it's a 5th gen then unless the tint was total crap quality then it shouldn't be as bad as you described.
You would be surprised. I'm not sure what background you may have with window film but with my experience (around 4 years in the window film industry), quite a few lines of film within different brands fade and turn purple within 3 or 4 years. Not saying that this film will, but I was just preparing him for the worst.
__________________
02 6 speed, Meridian package, HLSD, 04 Tranny internals, H Techs, Illuminas, G35 coupe 18s, Megan Cat back, E.S. shifter bushings, J.W.T. Pop charger, NWP VIAS block off plate, 350Z injectors, 12% window tint, Silver front corner markers, Luminics yellow fogs, AVIC D3, J.L. Audio 500W mono block sub amp, Memphis M3 500 RMS 12" sub
**Owned but not installed yet**
Clutch Masters stage 1,
the pros use a steamer to remove tint. the trick is to remove the film AND glue together.
for the sides spray with soapy water and ammonia mixed together. the combination will soften the glue. pick a hot day and spray it on but don't let it dry. after a few min try and pull the tint off w/ the glue. spray the solution between the glass and the pulled tint. once it's off use a white scrubbie pad to get the remainder off using the same solution. you MUST use a white one...green or red will scratch the glass.
do the same for the rear and follow the procedure for the black trash bag on the rear. it has to be a sunny/warm day. don't let the solution dry out. if it dries out spray more. 10-15 min go back there and pull the tint off. use the white pad to scrub the glue off the glass. if done right there should be ZERO damage to the defrosters.
if you wanna do it right and not have to do a lot of extra work, invest in a good steamer.
In NY you can get a ticket for tinting the rear windows. My friend got 4 tickets for each window at a checkpoint. He tried to fight the tickets for the rear windows, because he thought the cop was just being a jerk. He lost and paid for all of them. As for removing the tints, it was a lot of work and messy. PM me if you want to go to Queens there is a tint shop on queens Blvd. I did my maxima, bmw, and 09lexus there, they are good and cheap.
I moved up to Vermont and had to remove my fronts if I wanted to pass inspection or avoid getting hassled by the popo's. I was told it was going to be a pain in the backside but it actually wasn't all that bad.
All you need is a spray bottle filled with warm water & baby shampoo, a hair dryer and a razor blade and you're all set. If you have the luxury, wait for a nice, semi-warm or hot day.
I first sprayed the window down with the soapy mix, heated up the window with the hair dryer and peeled away. I actually preferred to start from the top middle than the sides because it didn't rip as easily that way. Key is to go slow when peeling and if you feel it start to grab or rip, stop, spray and reheat.
After the tint is off, spray the window down again with your soapy mix, put the hair dryer to it again and go to town with your razor blade. I found getting the glue off was the biggest pain in the tookus or at least most time consuming part but some good tunes and a few beers made it a decent time.
Finish with some Stoners Invisible Glass or Sprayway and your back to clear, hot, naked *** windows again. Damn I miss my front tint.........
after getting as much glue off with the razor blade, I used WD40 and some fine steel wool to clean the rest off.
How did that smell? At the tint shop I work at we use this stuff called spray-way. You can get it at home depot I believe. Spray it on one good time and let it penetrate for a couple min then spray again. Then go ahead and take a box blade to it.
This seems like a common question...possible sticky?
__________________
02 6 speed, Meridian package, HLSD, 04 Tranny internals, H Techs, Illuminas, G35 coupe 18s, Megan Cat back, E.S. shifter bushings, J.W.T. Pop charger, NWP VIAS block off plate, 350Z injectors, 12% window tint, Silver front corner markers, Luminics yellow fogs, AVIC D3, J.L. Audio 500W mono block sub amp, Memphis M3 500 RMS 12" sub
**Owned but not installed yet**
Clutch Masters stage 1,
i just peeled off my rear window tint this week it took me few days to remove all dried glue off. i use a scraper windex is not working. i have to do it very slowly beacuse i dun want to scrape off the deforst lines that's bothering.
As stated above, A fine grade steel wool is good for back windows. Peel the film off slowly so not to damage the defrost lines. Use a steamer to heat the film and make the adhesive tacky. If you are lucky most of the adhesive will come off with the film. If not use one of the many suggested glass cleaners referenced in this thread (NOT WINDEX). Let it soak in for a couple min then spray again and use that steel wool to remove the remaining adhesive. MAKE SURE THE DEFROST IS OFF!! If not and the accessory is on you can short the defroster, blow a fuse, and even set the steel wool on fire (I learned the hard way back in the day). GL
__________________
02 6 speed, Meridian package, HLSD, 04 Tranny internals, H Techs, Illuminas, G35 coupe 18s, Megan Cat back, E.S. shifter bushings, J.W.T. Pop charger, NWP VIAS block off plate, 350Z injectors, 12% window tint, Silver front corner markers, Luminics yellow fogs, AVIC D3, J.L. Audio 500W mono block sub amp, Memphis M3 500 RMS 12" sub
**Owned but not installed yet**
Clutch Masters stage 1,
You would be surprised. I'm not sure what background you may have with window film but with my experience (around 4 years in the window film industry), quite a few lines of film within different brands fade and turn purple within 3 or 4 years. Not saying that this film will, but I was just preparing him for the worst.
you're right...i've seen a few REALLY crappy tint. i wonder why would a tinter would even use such sub par film.
As stated above, A fine grade steel wool is good for back windows. Peel the film off slowly so not to damage the defrost lines. Use a steamer to heat the film and make the adhesive tacky. If you are lucky most of the adhesive will come off with the film. If not use one of the many suggested glass cleaners referenced in this thread (NOT WINDEX). Let it soak in for a couple min then spray again and use that steel wool to remove the remaining adhesive. MAKE SURE THE DEFROST IS OFF!! If not and the accessory is on you can short the defroster, blow a fuse, and even set the steel wool on fire (I learned the hard way back in the day). GL
you like using the steel wool rather than a white scrubbie?
i just get freaked out that the steel wool shedding small steel fibers and then landing on the tint or something nuts. it'll probably won't happen but i'm OCD about it.
YES KEEP THE DEFROST OFF...it'll go on fire if you're not careful.
you like using the steel wool rather than a white scrubbie?
i just get freaked out that the steel wool shedding small steel fibers and then landing on the tint or something nuts. it'll probably won't happen but i'm OCD about it.
YES KEEP THE DEFROST OFF...it'll go on fire if you're not careful.
The steel wool has long strands and will not flake off or come apart. Its quite compacted. (unless you pull it apart)
you're right...i've seen a few REALLY crappy tint. i wonder why would a tinter would even use such sub par film.
They use a sub par film and sell tint jobs for the same price as everybody else. Just out to make more money and have no interest in quality of work. Sucks that some people don't have pride in their work.
__________________
02 6 speed, Meridian package, HLSD, 04 Tranny internals, H Techs, Illuminas, G35 coupe 18s, Megan Cat back, E.S. shifter bushings, J.W.T. Pop charger, NWP VIAS block off plate, 350Z injectors, 12% window tint, Silver front corner markers, Luminics yellow fogs, AVIC D3, J.L. Audio 500W mono block sub amp, Memphis M3 500 RMS 12" sub
**Owned but not installed yet**
Clutch Masters stage 1,
you like using the steel wool rather than a white scrubbie?
i just get freaked out that the steel wool shedding small steel fibers and then landing on the tint or something nuts. it'll probably won't happen but i'm OCD about it.
YES KEEP THE DEFROST OFF...it'll go on fire if you're not careful.
The steel wool can shed small fibers but you just need to be careful when spraying down the window. Make sure the entire window is sprayed, squeegeed, and sprayed again. Also DON'T let the film touch the rear deck when placing. That is where the issue would come from if you wiped down the rear pillars like you should. I use the white scrubbie when I am not removing. But to really get the adhesive off the defrost lines w/o taking forever I use the wool. You aren't OCD, it's called pride in your work. Glad to see somebody still has it
__________________
02 6 speed, Meridian package, HLSD, 04 Tranny internals, H Techs, Illuminas, G35 coupe 18s, Megan Cat back, E.S. shifter bushings, J.W.T. Pop charger, NWP VIAS block off plate, 350Z injectors, 12% window tint, Silver front corner markers, Luminics yellow fogs, AVIC D3, J.L. Audio 500W mono block sub amp, Memphis M3 500 RMS 12" sub
**Owned but not installed yet**
Clutch Masters stage 1,
The steel wool has long strands and will not flake off or come apart. Its quite compacted. (unless you pull it apart)
hmmm...the stuff i see at HD in the package all come kinda bundled together so i still have to pull it apart. i tried it before but it's probably more mental that i freak out when there's a chance more crud will land on the rear deck. i just rather not add more to the rear deck...but i guess that's just me.
They use a sub par film and sell tint jobs for the same price as everybody else. Just out to make more money and have no interest in quality of work. Sucks that some people don't have pride in their work.
why even bother!? it's the same effort...it's the same motion...but you're using crap film. i mean does that stuff even shrink right/well??
The steel wool can shed small fibers but you just need to be careful when spraying down the window. Make sure the entire window is sprayed, squeegeed, and sprayed again. Also DON'T let the film touch the rear deck when placing. That is where the issue would come from if you wiped down the rear pillars like you should. I use the white scrubbie when I am not removing. But to really get the adhesive off the defrost lines w/o taking forever I use the wool. You aren't OCD, it's called pride in your work. Glad to see somebody still has it
i'm going OT here...(sorry)
but what method do you use to get the rear film into the car?
is it the mummy walk or a reverse roll....or something totally new i never heard of?
i'm going OT here...(sorry)
but what method do you use to get the rear film into the car?
is it the mummy walk or a reverse roll....or something totally new i never heard of?
I mummy that mother It helps that I'm a big guy when I step in to the back (kinda) because with most smaller cars I wan just one arm the back piece so I don't hit the car with the film. At the same time, Being tall doesn't halp when placing on the glass. I don't do the roll because I could break a center console. haha
__________________
02 6 speed, Meridian package, HLSD, 04 Tranny internals, H Techs, Illuminas, G35 coupe 18s, Megan Cat back, E.S. shifter bushings, J.W.T. Pop charger, NWP VIAS block off plate, 350Z injectors, 12% window tint, Silver front corner markers, Luminics yellow fogs, AVIC D3, J.L. Audio 500W mono block sub amp, Memphis M3 500 RMS 12" sub
**Owned but not installed yet**
Clutch Masters stage 1,
It's fast...
if you wanna do it right and not have to do a lot of extra work, invest in a good steamer.
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