DetailingDiscuss how to make your car sparkly clean for car shows, local meets, or any other reason. What products do others use and how do we get them? Get your questions answered in here.
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hey i was just wondering i need to get the rear bumper of my 2k2 re-painted sterling silver and was wondering if anyone else has got it done.just looking for an average price..def. dont want to get screw by a paint shop
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02 max 6spd,19" mille miglia ev-s,vis invader CF hood,eibach pro w/gr2s,clutchmaster clutch,20% tint all around,clears,twm short throw shift w/es bushings,cattman stainless exhaust,2 degree timing advance,
Depends on the quality of the paint job as well as the number of layers (2 layers for regular paint colors and 3 layers for pearl colored paints). $500 tops.
man that is a crazy amount to pay for just one bumper.. 300 sounds about right though. its a shame you don't live by me i would do it for 100. paint is cheap my friend for 2-300 buck you could paint an entire car yourself.
If you want to have a durable job, that's not going to be cheap. Just to give you an idea check the links to see what products are require to make a very nice jobs.
PPG Base coat: 350$ US per gallon ( with 1 gallon you will paint the entire car )
Also with one gallon of paint you will make 2 gallon since the paint have to be mix with the reducer on a scale of 1 to 1. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0532.jpg
wow i didnt think a gallon of paint or clear would be that much money
I prefer to use higher quality product for my own car since I want to keep it all my life. You can buy cheaper product like a gallon of clear for 50$ but it will start to fade as early as in 2 years.
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2K1 AE-SE - Sterling Mist
2004 BMW X5 4.4i
ya man ..cars very clean..got some time and money in it to...id love to keep my maxima for life but i know its not gunna happen..cool man keep her clean
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02 max 6spd,19" mille miglia ev-s,vis invader CF hood,eibach pro w/gr2s,clutchmaster clutch,20% tint all around,clears,twm short throw shift w/es bushings,cattman stainless exhaust,2 degree timing advance,
ya man ..cars very clean..got some time and money in it to...id love to keep my maxima for life but i know its not gunna happen..cool man keep her clean
thanks. was mainly letting you know that you can get quality work done for not that expensive. Just find a reasonable shop with a good name. Get some estimates.
ha ha well i painted my pearl white s14 myself for 300 bucks so i would say its possible.. although i know what i am doing and have been painting for over 3 years now.
looks good..but see i dont have a gun, a booth anything like that and id be painting in my opinion a much harder color that white with pearl in it..im not paintin the hole damn thing so id need to blend and all that fun crap lol...but i must say the pic looks sharp of your car
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02 max 6spd,19" mille miglia ev-s,vis invader CF hood,eibach pro w/gr2s,clutchmaster clutch,20% tint all around,clears,twm short throw shift w/es bushings,cattman stainless exhaust,2 degree timing advance,
ha ha well i painted my pearl white s14 myself for 300 bucks so i would say its possible.. although i know what i am doing and have been painting for over 3 years now.
i'm not buyin it... even if you did no prep and had every tool you needed i don't even think you can get a car's worth of 3 stage for $300. on top of that... da paper, scotchbrite, filler, file paper, putty, tape, masking paper, sealer, adhesion promoter, and primer and you've broke $300 easily before you've squirted a hint of color.
ha ha well i painted my pearl white s14 myself for 300 bucks so i would say its possible.. although i know what i am doing and have been painting for over 3 years now.
If you want to have a durable job, that's not going to be cheap. Just to give you an idea check the links to see what products are require to make a very nice jobs.
PPG Base coat: 350$ US per gallon ( with 1 gallon you will paint the entire car )
Also with one gallon of paint you will make 2 gallon since the paint have to be mix with the reducer on a scale of 1 to 1. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0532.jpg
same stuff that i use...good stuff.
that DCU 2002 is a really good clear.
Absolutely, this clear give a very very nice finish, I put about 6 coats + on parts and will probably do 6-8 on the car, then you buff it to remove the imperfections and end up with an incredible finish but also very resistant.
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2K1 AE-SE - Sterling Mist
2004 BMW X5 4.4i
In order to get a good job done on the bumper you or the shop should include a good flex additive. There are numerous thoughts on whether you need the flexibility but most flex additives include a bond agent that makes a much better job for urethane bumpers.
i had a new bumper, grill and hood painted and re-hung on the car after my accident last year and i paid 2,100.00 for everything and that was cheap.i was getting quotes of up to 3,800.00 from some shops and it took him 2 weeks to do. he said the paint took the longest cause of the prep, and the parts were new!!!
Absolutely, this clear give a very very nice finish, I put about 6 coats + on parts and will probably do 6-8 on the car, then you buff it to remove the imperfections and end up with an incredible finish but also very resistant.
6 coats?!?! WHY?
unless you're a wreck of a painter that you need to buff that much the clear shouldn't be 6 coats.
one light coat..then one wet coat. that's it....one more wet if you're THAT OCD about it. if your paint skills are up to par you shouldn't really have to buff all that much. the DCU is a hard clear too.
In order to get a good job done on the bumper you or the shop should include a good flex additive. There are numerous thoughts on whether you need the flexibility but most flex additives include a bond agent that makes a much better job for urethane bumpers.
ummm no.
flex is not a bond agent...it's mixed into the clear.
if the bumper is on the car then no flex is needed. there is some "flex" built into the paint so you really don't need to add flex.
i usually use an adhesion promoter/primer before i shoot the base coat which acts like a base flex primer. if the panel is off the car and it's going to be a PITA to put it back on then i'll shoot the clear w/ the flex added.
also keep in mind flex that's added to the clear is only in the paint for a short period of time. after a few years if you tap the bumper the paint will still spider/crack.
the flex stuff looses its (flex) if you will or its purpose over short time i know that cause i ad a few this painted before with it ..i think its a joke..but no my car got dropped off at a buddies shop today rear bumper and front repainted and some taillight work done for 400 even
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02 max 6spd,19" mille miglia ev-s,vis invader CF hood,eibach pro w/gr2s,clutchmaster clutch,20% tint all around,clears,twm short throw shift w/es bushings,cattman stainless exhaust,2 degree timing advance,
the flex stuff looses its (flex) if you will or its purpose over short time i know that cause i ad a few this painted before with it ..i think its a joke..but no my car got dropped off at a buddies shop today rear bumper and front repainted and some taillight work done for 400 even
Squirrel82 does the bumpers for $100 a piece. He works in Beltsville MD, True 2 Form.
I do $200 per panel for new parts or used parts in good condition with scuff and repaint. That is with less expensive (middle of the road if you will) clear.
I put a few coats of base coat (depending on the base paint/ primer color and new base coat being applied)
then two thick coats of clear. (thats enough for a light cut and buff if it needs it)
$250 per panel with better clear and 3 thick layers of clear and cut and buff.
As mentioned above, anywhere in the range of $200-300 is a good price depending on your needs.
I have seen the work done for $50, but you can imagine the quality.
I do $200 per panel for new parts or used parts in good condition with scuff and repaint. That is with less expensive (middle of the road if you will) clear.
I put a few coats of base coat (depending on the base paint/ primer color and new base coat being applied)
then two thick coats of clear. (thats enough for a light cut and buff if it needs it)
$250 per panel with better clear and 3 thick layers of clear and cut and buff.
As mentioned above, anywhere in the range of $200-300 is a good price depending on your needs.
I have seen the work done for $50, but you can imagine the quality.
You get what you pay for.
do you work at a shop or doing this on the side as a hobby?
6 coats?!?! WHY?
unless you're a wreck of a painter that you need to buff that much the clear shouldn't be 6 coats.
one light coat..then one wet coat. that's it....one more wet if you're THAT OCD about it. if your paint skills are up to par you shouldn't really have to buff all that much. the DCU is a hard clear too.
When I compare some of the parts that I only put 2 coats of clear and the other one which got 3-4 + there is a big difference in the finish, the idea is to put many thin layers which will act as an additional protection for the paint. I prefer to put many thin coats than only 1 or 2 thick coats, if you want to avoid the fish eye or orange skin look that's the way to go but to each is own.
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2K1 AE-SE - Sterling Mist
2004 BMW X5 4.4i
When I compare some of the parts that I only put 2 coats of clear and the other one which got 3-4 + there is a big difference in the finish, the idea is to put many thin layers which will act as an additional protection for the paint. I prefer to put many thin coats than only 1 or 2 thick coats, if you want to avoid the fish eye or orange skin look that's the way to go but to each is own.
fish eye is just bad prep.
orange peel is improper spray technique or incorrect reducer used.
one light/tack coat and then throw on a wet coat and the clear should be nice and level. it's a heavier coat but it's not to the point that it'll run.
if there's left over clear i'll shoot one more wet coat of clear but IMO anymore than that is over kill.
i've never done the 6 light coats....but like you said to each is own. if that works for you then go with it.
BTW the one light, and two wet works well preventing chips and etc. only chip that i see on the car is from someone actually hitting it..and the clear still stuck on the bumper.
fish eye is just bad prep.
orange peel is improper spray technique or incorrect reducer used.
one light/tack coat and then throw on a wet coat and the clear should be nice and level. it's a heavier coat but it's not to the point that it'll run.
if there's left over clear i'll shoot one more wet coat of clear but IMO anymore than that is over kill.
i've never done the 6 light coats....but like you said to each is own. if that works for you then go with it.
BTW the one light, and two wet works well preventing chips and etc. only chip that i see on the car is from someone actually hitting it..and the clear still stuck on the bumper.
You are probably referring to painting the car, which is very different than painting parts, since it's a flat surface and much easier to paint, most pro shop I know would put 3 coats. I have been painting all the parts in the engine bay like all the suspension parts & sub frame connector, I put like 5-6 coats on the LCA & SFC and believe me they turned out very very nice, for all the brackets I put about 3-4 coats. Dont get me wrong I'm a freak when it come to painting stuff, it would be a different story if I would do this for living as cost would be an issue, in my case it is not so I can do a little over kill.
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2K1 AE-SE - Sterling Mist
2004 BMW X5 4.4i
i love when people go overboard on clear.unless its a car your not gonna drive to many coats of clear is actually a bad thing it actually becomes more brittle and actually chips easier. 2 coats is more than enough unless your gonna wetsand then a third wet coat is good but by the time your done you end up with about two. especially with susp parts they are definitly gonna chip.
PS 3051 & DPS 3055 are about 60$ per quart.
triangle with exclamation mark. so it is some type of warning.
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