Claybar? does it really work?
05-24-2005, 04:11 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 228
Claybar? does it really work?
ok ive heard all the praises about it but i bought one yesterday but it seemed not to do much and i know my paint isnt the best but it still shines pretty good. but it didnt seem to make a differance mabye i was doing it wrong. but i read the directions and did it to the T. any pointers???
05-24-2005, 04:57 AM
#2
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 97
Yes, it really works. What brand did you get? What didnt it make a difference in?
1. Wash car really good.
2. Dry car.
3. Spray lubricant liberally in 3x3 area.
4. Tear half of the bar off and flatten it (in case you drop it, you still have another piece to work with).
5. Set clay bar on surface and rub it in a front to back motion with little pressure. Let the bar do all the work.
6. Rinse, repeat.
1. Wash car really good.
2. Dry car.
3. Spray lubricant liberally in 3x3 area.
4. Tear half of the bar off and flatten it (in case you drop it, you still have another piece to work with).
5. Set clay bar on surface and rub it in a front to back motion with little pressure. Let the bar do all the work.
6. Rinse, repeat.
05-24-2005, 07:54 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 228
califorina gold is the brand i belive not sure will check when i get home but it didnt seem to do anything to the surface of the paint i tried it on half of the hood then just waxed the other half and i couldnt really tell the difference mabye i need to top it off with polish? to shine better? it was a mirror shine but it looked the same on the untreated part as it did on the treated part
05-24-2005, 08:49 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 256
You should do the whole car with the clay bar. It doesn't take that long, and it pulls out all manner of particles from the paint. It doesn't improve the appearance, per se, but it does make it much smoother. Clay can also remove overspray in some cases. If you want the surface to feel silky smooth after detailing, you have to start with the clay.
As you rub the clay bar over a new area, it should stick at first, then become smoother. I used the California Gold, too. I also filled a spray bottle with water and rubbing alcohol (50/50) to help remove the haze left by the clay and lubricant.
The standard test is to stick your hand in a plastic baggie and rub it across the paint before you start. The baggie will probably stick and roll around your hand. Once you clay the surface, the baggie should glide across it without sticking.
Once you're finished claying, you only have to polish, glaze, seal, then wax!
As you rub the clay bar over a new area, it should stick at first, then become smoother. I used the California Gold, too. I also filled a spray bottle with water and rubbing alcohol (50/50) to help remove the haze left by the clay and lubricant.
The standard test is to stick your hand in a plastic baggie and rub it across the paint before you start. The baggie will probably stick and roll around your hand. Once you clay the surface, the baggie should glide across it without sticking.
Once you're finished claying, you only have to polish, glaze, seal, then wax!
05-24-2005, 10:12 AM
#7
As mentioned the clay bar will only remove particles from the paint/clear coat. It will not shine your car. After you clay bar, the paint should feel as smooth as glass. It prepares the surface for polish and wax. So clay bar, polish and then wax. Then the difference will be obvious.
05-24-2005, 08:15 PM
#9
i tried claying my spoiler and it left some hazy marks on it. kinda like fat swirls. i know what i did wrong and i was wondering will going over it again with the clay bar get rid of the haze? i would go out and do it myself right now, but its been raining for the last couple of days, and more rain is predicted for the next week or so.
also would the mr clean autodry system clean the car sufficient enough to begin claying and waxing? and should i use the clay on my headlights and windows?
also would the mr clean autodry system clean the car sufficient enough to begin claying and waxing? and should i use the clay on my headlights and windows?
05-25-2005, 01:50 AM
#10
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 840
Originally Posted by Northern Maxima
I've got a related question...does the claybar help clean headlight lenses? Mine are covered in bugs and some kind of chemical splatter...
05-25-2005, 01:56 AM
#11
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 840
Originally Posted by DJ2Max
i tried claying my spoiler and it left some hazy marks on it. kinda like fat swirls. i know what i did wrong and i was wondering will going over it again with the clay bar get rid of the haze? i would go out and do it myself right now, but its been raining for the last couple of days, and more rain is predicted for the next week or so.
also would the mr clean autodry system clean the car sufficient enough to begin claying and waxing? and should i use the clay on my headlights and windows?
also would the mr clean autodry system clean the car sufficient enough to begin claying and waxing? and should i use the clay on my headlights and windows?
You can use clay on any part of the car, but it could cause marring if you're pressing too hard. Use a light touch when claying. See above post for headlight plastic.
I've never used Mr Clean autopdry, but i would always wash my car with a nice sheepskin mitt and a good car shampoo before any detailing work.
05-25-2005, 05:19 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 256
Originally Posted by DJ2Max
also would the mr clean autodry system clean the car sufficient enough to begin claying and waxing? and should i use the clay on my headlights and windows?
06-03-2005, 11:19 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 256
Yes, icewake, AutoZone and Advance Auto have them for sure, and I even saw the Mother's product at my local Ace Hardware. A clay bar usually comes with some spray lubricant, and the package shouldn't cost more than $15. Also, you might want to get an empty spray bottle and fill it with 1/2 water and 1/2 rubbing alchohol, because you might need that to help remove any hazy leftovers on the car once you're finished.
Once you've clayed, then you polish, then you wax/seal.
Once you've clayed, then you polish, then you wax/seal.
06-03-2005, 01:36 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 1,805
I just bought a Mother's package and it included a small bottle of wax too for $25 Canadian. I gotta tell you it really is more than I expected! My car was covered in tar spots and little rust spots and other junk but after a couple hours of scrubbing, they were GONE! The paint look brand new now and it feels amazingly smooth! I'm just wondering now how often you should clay your car?
06-03-2005, 07:20 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Northern Maxima
I just bought a Mother's package and it included a small bottle of wax too for $25 Canadian. I gotta tell you it really is more than I expected! My car was covered in tar spots and little rust spots and other junk but after a couple hours of scrubbing, they were GONE! The paint look brand new now and it feels amazingly smooth! I'm just wondering now how often you should clay your car?
06-03-2005, 07:32 PM
#19
i live and die by the clay bar, best thing ever made besides car wax. my paint was so smooth once my spray bottle slid off my hood.....from the middle of the hood! anyways 2 to 3 times is perfect, but always follow up with wax.
06-04-2005, 06:49 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Maxima112
i live and die by the clay bar, best thing ever made besides car wax. my paint was so smooth once my spray bottle slid off my hood.....from the middle of the hood! anyways 2 to 3 times is perfect, but always follow up with wax.
PS, im really starting to get pissed at the minimum you can write in a response.
06-04-2005, 07:16 AM
#21
That's why you write something like "10char" and meet the req.
About the clay bar. I clay my car at the beginning of the year, before I apply any sealant. It removes all that little crap that's become stuck and leave the clearcoat feeling smooth to the touch. By removing all the debris, you create a more reflective surface which is amplified by washing the car and then waxing (or in my case, putting on numerous layers of Zaino).
First wash of the year:
1. Wash with Dawn dish soap (high alkaline content removes any sealant or wax)
2. Clay bar
3. Wash with Zaino soap
4. Zaino (many many steps that I won't go into now)
About the clay bar. I clay my car at the beginning of the year, before I apply any sealant. It removes all that little crap that's become stuck and leave the clearcoat feeling smooth to the touch. By removing all the debris, you create a more reflective surface which is amplified by washing the car and then waxing (or in my case, putting on numerous layers of Zaino).
First wash of the year:
1. Wash with Dawn dish soap (high alkaline content removes any sealant or wax)
2. Clay bar
3. Wash with Zaino soap
4. Zaino (many many steps that I won't go into now)
06-08-2005, 06:40 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 155
Wash removes the dirt
Clay to remove particles.
Polish is to prep the surface, removes light scratches, holograms, oxidation etc.
Wax or Last Step Product, protects that surface and provides the wet look.
the application/procedure of Polish or Waxing can be done the same way, by hand or machine
Clay to remove particles.
Polish is to prep the surface, removes light scratches, holograms, oxidation etc.
Wax or Last Step Product, protects that surface and provides the wet look.
the application/procedure of Polish or Waxing can be done the same way, by hand or machine
06-08-2005, 08:52 AM
#24
Originally Posted by daggett92se
on here ive heard to clay, polish, and then wax. Whats the difference between polishing and waxing is it just a different product or differant procedure. (Newbie)
06-12-2005, 08:06 PM
#25
Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 47
A fun 'test' when claying that I still get a kick out of doing every time I clay:
1. Get yourself a plastic sandwich bag
2. Put your hand in it, and rub your fingers across the hood
3. Clay a small section
4. Repeat step 2
5. You'll be all reved up to finish claying your car after feeling the difference between #2 and #4!
1. Get yourself a plastic sandwich bag
2. Put your hand in it, and rub your fingers across the hood
3. Clay a small section
4. Repeat step 2
5. You'll be all reved up to finish claying your car after feeling the difference between #2 and #4!
06-16-2005, 10:35 PM
#26
Do this and your paint will GLEAM (sorry for the mega long reply)
Bottom line: If you really care about the car's paint and it's appearance, CLAY BAR really does work and is well worth the time and effort.
I'm sure you guys have seen the "clay bar kits" that are being sold in auto parts stores. IMO these are a huge waste of money. All you need is the actual clay bar. I bought my 3M clay bar from a retail professional auto/body paint store for $20. The 3M bar is huge compared to the ones found in "kits." It is the size of a bath soap; the kind you find in your shower but without the fancy curves...just a straight rectangular chunk of firm, moldable clay. I've had it for 5+ years, used it about 10 times and have never dropped it although I came close a couple times. DONT DROP IT! If you do, you have to throw it away or break off the section that came into contact with the ground. Or else you will be rubbing dirt and rocks into your paint. As for the clay bar lube that comes with the "kits" just use soapy water and a sponge instead.
Here is a tried and tested method of mine to make your car's paint look like it just rolled off the showroom floor. It is tedious and will require a good portion of your Saturday but when all is said and done you will agree that it was all worth it. Some owners aren't as fanatic about their car's finish and are satisfied with just a simple car wash and a once a year wax job but not me. Here's what I do at least twice a year with all my car's that I have ever owned:
Supplies:
- Dishwashing Liquid Soap (NOT car wash soap)
- A plastic bucket or container to hold soapy water
- Clay bar (I use 3M Agressive Clay Bar which is no longer sold. Just do a Google or Froogle search for clay+bar)
- 3M Imperial Hand Glaze (Polish)
- Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax (OR your favorite brand of WAX)
- A Cotton wash mitt or sponge
- Plenty of 100% White Cotton Towels (the bigger the better)
- Garden hose WITHOUT any nozzle attachments
Method:
1. Park the car in the shade if possible. The body should be cool to the touch. Start early in the morning or when cool for best results.
2. Start by washing the car with plenty of diswashing liquid soap and water. This will ensure that you strip the car's finish of any pre-existing wax, dirt and grime. ONLY USE DISHWASHING SOAP TO WASH YOUR CAR IF YOU INTEND TO IMMEDIATELY APPLY A PROTECTIVE COAT OF WAX THAT SAME DAY. Do NOT use dishwashing soap on a regular basis; use only when claying/polishing/waxing.
3. Glide your bare palm across the paint's surface and feel all the embedded dirt and stuff in the paint. Clay bar time. Working one section at a time, submerge the sponge in soapy water (lube) and squeeze onto paint surface followed by rubbing action of clay bar. Apply lube often to make it easier to clay bar. Make sure you have a firm grip on that clay bar. At first the clay bar will "grip the paint" or resist your rubbing action which is normal and an indication that the clay is picking up the contaminates in the paint. After a few strokes the bar will break free (be careful!) and will glide smoothly. Before each section, knead the clay to expose a fresh section. After you have clay'd a section, rinse off the area with the hose. No need for full blast stream...just let it flow gently over the surface. Repeat for entire paint surface of car. Clay bar works great on glass windows and head/taillights just don't forget the lube (soapy water).
4. Now that the entire car has been clay bar'd, wash it once more with the same dishwashing liquid soap to completely clean the paint of any clay residue. Do not reuse the wash mitt/sponge for normal car washes unless you thoroughly rinse all the dishwashing soap out of it. If you don't rinse it good, the next time you do a normal car wash you will strip the wax without realizing it.
5. Use the 100% White Cotton Towels to completely dry the car's surface.
6. (Optional step - Polish) If your paint is fairly new and free of swirls in the paint then just skip this step. If the paint is more than a couple years old, I would recommend doing this step. Follow the directions on the bottle. (I like to use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze)
7. REQUIRED - Protective coat of WAX - I recommend at least 2 coats. If you're short on time, one coat will suffice until your next routine car wash. Follow the directions on the bottle. (I recommend Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax or Zaino Bros.)
That's it!
By now you should be exhausted but proud of your sparkly, shiny paint. You will get people complimenting you on how new or clean your paint appears. The final test is to again glide your bare palm across the surface and feel the smoothness. It should feel like your rubbing glass; free of any embedded surface contaminates. Grab a cold beer and admire your hard work.
I'm sure you guys have seen the "clay bar kits" that are being sold in auto parts stores. IMO these are a huge waste of money. All you need is the actual clay bar. I bought my 3M clay bar from a retail professional auto/body paint store for $20. The 3M bar is huge compared to the ones found in "kits." It is the size of a bath soap; the kind you find in your shower but without the fancy curves...just a straight rectangular chunk of firm, moldable clay. I've had it for 5+ years, used it about 10 times and have never dropped it although I came close a couple times. DONT DROP IT! If you do, you have to throw it away or break off the section that came into contact with the ground. Or else you will be rubbing dirt and rocks into your paint. As for the clay bar lube that comes with the "kits" just use soapy water and a sponge instead.
Here is a tried and tested method of mine to make your car's paint look like it just rolled off the showroom floor. It is tedious and will require a good portion of your Saturday but when all is said and done you will agree that it was all worth it. Some owners aren't as fanatic about their car's finish and are satisfied with just a simple car wash and a once a year wax job but not me. Here's what I do at least twice a year with all my car's that I have ever owned:
Supplies:
- Dishwashing Liquid Soap (NOT car wash soap)
- A plastic bucket or container to hold soapy water
- Clay bar (I use 3M Agressive Clay Bar which is no longer sold. Just do a Google or Froogle search for clay+bar)
- 3M Imperial Hand Glaze (Polish)
- Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax (OR your favorite brand of WAX)
- A Cotton wash mitt or sponge
- Plenty of 100% White Cotton Towels (the bigger the better)
- Garden hose WITHOUT any nozzle attachments
Method:
1. Park the car in the shade if possible. The body should be cool to the touch. Start early in the morning or when cool for best results.
2. Start by washing the car with plenty of diswashing liquid soap and water. This will ensure that you strip the car's finish of any pre-existing wax, dirt and grime. ONLY USE DISHWASHING SOAP TO WASH YOUR CAR IF YOU INTEND TO IMMEDIATELY APPLY A PROTECTIVE COAT OF WAX THAT SAME DAY. Do NOT use dishwashing soap on a regular basis; use only when claying/polishing/waxing.
3. Glide your bare palm across the paint's surface and feel all the embedded dirt and stuff in the paint. Clay bar time. Working one section at a time, submerge the sponge in soapy water (lube) and squeeze onto paint surface followed by rubbing action of clay bar. Apply lube often to make it easier to clay bar. Make sure you have a firm grip on that clay bar. At first the clay bar will "grip the paint" or resist your rubbing action which is normal and an indication that the clay is picking up the contaminates in the paint. After a few strokes the bar will break free (be careful!) and will glide smoothly. Before each section, knead the clay to expose a fresh section. After you have clay'd a section, rinse off the area with the hose. No need for full blast stream...just let it flow gently over the surface. Repeat for entire paint surface of car. Clay bar works great on glass windows and head/taillights just don't forget the lube (soapy water).
4. Now that the entire car has been clay bar'd, wash it once more with the same dishwashing liquid soap to completely clean the paint of any clay residue. Do not reuse the wash mitt/sponge for normal car washes unless you thoroughly rinse all the dishwashing soap out of it. If you don't rinse it good, the next time you do a normal car wash you will strip the wax without realizing it.
5. Use the 100% White Cotton Towels to completely dry the car's surface.
6. (Optional step - Polish) If your paint is fairly new and free of swirls in the paint then just skip this step. If the paint is more than a couple years old, I would recommend doing this step. Follow the directions on the bottle. (I like to use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze)
7. REQUIRED - Protective coat of WAX - I recommend at least 2 coats. If you're short on time, one coat will suffice until your next routine car wash. Follow the directions on the bottle. (I recommend Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax or Zaino Bros.)
That's it!
By now you should be exhausted but proud of your sparkly, shiny paint. You will get people complimenting you on how new or clean your paint appears. The final test is to again glide your bare palm across the surface and feel the smoothness. It should feel like your rubbing glass; free of any embedded surface contaminates. Grab a cold beer and admire your hard work.
06-19-2005, 01:42 AM
#29
FunLovinMaxima: You're welcome. Glad that you found it informative.
If you clay bar your max, let us know how it goes or should I say glows...
Sealant? what do you mean by that? I'm not familiar with Klasse...enlighten me.
Meguiar's Hi-Tech Yellow wax is not only carnuba wax but a blend of other ingredients that I cannot remember right now...check out the link from my original reply and you'll see Meguiar's product description. Depending on how many coats are applied the wax protection should last well over 1 month. There's no saying how long a specific brand of wax will last because there's just too many variables for each instance. A healthy coat of wax every 2-3 months should be just fine. More or less often depending on how dirty it actually gets in between washes and how frequent the washes are.
Oh btw, imo your paint's #1 enemy is bird droppings. If you spot some $hit on your paint, clean it off ASAP! That stuff is like acid and will eat away and etch into your paint. Sometimes those nice shady parking spots under big trees can be like the bottom of a bird cage...look around the parking space ground for signs of bird droppings. Damn birds!
If you clay bar your max, let us know how it goes or should I say glows...
Originally Posted by lalaMAX
i thought u want sealant like (klasse) or somethingfirst then wax..... coz that last longer... am i right? hi tech yello wax is just a carnauba wax, it will gone within a month or sth is it??
Meguiar's Hi-Tech Yellow wax is not only carnuba wax but a blend of other ingredients that I cannot remember right now...check out the link from my original reply and you'll see Meguiar's product description. Depending on how many coats are applied the wax protection should last well over 1 month. There's no saying how long a specific brand of wax will last because there's just too many variables for each instance. A healthy coat of wax every 2-3 months should be just fine. More or less often depending on how dirty it actually gets in between washes and how frequent the washes are.
Oh btw, imo your paint's #1 enemy is bird droppings. If you spot some $hit on your paint, clean it off ASAP! That stuff is like acid and will eat away and etch into your paint. Sometimes those nice shady parking spots under big trees can be like the bottom of a bird cage...look around the parking space ground for signs of bird droppings. Damn birds!
06-20-2005, 05:43 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 256
Originally Posted by Tsukuba_Circuit
Sealant? what do you mean by that? I'm not familiar with Klasse...enlighten me.
"Sealant" means any wax or polymer treatment generally applied as the last step after cleaning and polishing the paint, which are different steps than waxing/sealing, though some products claim to clean/polish AND seal. Those combination products can be useful on a fairly new car where the paint is in good condition, but on older cars you should do each step separately. Klasse All-In-One is a very well regarded cleaner/polish/sealant... ergo "All-In-One."
Carnauba wax products use a petroleum distillate to keep the wax soft and useable. "Polymer" sealants, like Zaino and many others, also use petroleum distillates. Klasse All-in-One (and Klasse High Gloss Show Glaze) are supposedly completely different because the Klasse products are an acrylic sealant. They do not contain petroleum distillates or wax. Why is this important? Because if you put one petroleum distillate product on top of another one, the new one dissolves the old one, effectively giving you still only one coat of protection. But, because Klasse is acrylic, you can put a layer of that down, then add another layer of carnauba wax on top of the acrylic. This supposedly gives you a multi-layer deep wet shine. Some owners of dark color cars say the acrylic Klasse shine, by itself, is highly reflective, but does not enrich the dark color.
I borrowed some Zaino Bros. and Klasse AIO from a friend. On my black I-30t hood, I put Zaino on one side and Klasse on the other. Both products were easy to use, but the Zaino did look darker. Only a few weeks before I had cleaned and polished the paint with the Meguiars system, then sealed it with the NXT paste that everyone here is talking about. I was happy with the results then, too.
Because I was all hyped up with car care, I bought a kit of Klasse and a high-end carnauba wax to test this "multi-layered shine" idea on my black car. The Klasse All-In-One went on and off very easily. The Klasse High Gloss was more difficult to remove, and I didn't notice any real difference. The Pinnacle carnauba went on easily enough, but the improvement didn't seem worth the effort.
In the future, I'll probably just do the Klasse All-In-One on the whole car once a month because it's quick and easy. I'll save the multi-layered stuff for special occasions.
One strange thing: whether with the NXT or the Pinnacle carnauba, my car will be silky smooth one day, then very bumpy and rough the next day, as if dirt and grit are getting stuck in the carnauba wax. I tried to polish off the bumps with a dry microfiber towel, but that did nothing. A quick blast of detailing mist, however, makes the rough bumps disappear instantly. Also, when I started to wash the car, the gritty feeling disappeared immediately when the car got cool and wet. Anyone have any idea what's going on?
06-21-2005, 09:05 AM
#34
My question is on the brand of clay bar, i find it quite expensive to use the California clay bar. Why cant you just use some modeling clay with the lubricant. You pay so much for such a little quantity. To me there is nothing special about the california clay bar in comparison to any other clay. Not to knock the california clay bar cause it works like a charm but it is expensive is it not.
06-22-2005, 11:18 PM
#35
Taxvictim: Thanks for the info!
icelandmaxima: I thought about using modeling clay as well...but I didn't want to risk damaging the paint only to save a few dollars on clay. It's too bad 3M doesn't make the clay bar that I have anymore. I have seen a similar one and prob just as good if not better from Wolfgang Car Care. Wolfgang claims their clay bar will last 7-10 applications if cared for properly. There are many different brands and sizes of clay bars being sold. See what's out there and decide for yourself.
Here's the link to Wolfgang Car Care's Elastic Poly Clay Bar.
OR
Do a Froogle (Google.com) search for: clay+bar
icelandmaxima: I thought about using modeling clay as well...but I didn't want to risk damaging the paint only to save a few dollars on clay. It's too bad 3M doesn't make the clay bar that I have anymore. I have seen a similar one and prob just as good if not better from Wolfgang Car Care. Wolfgang claims their clay bar will last 7-10 applications if cared for properly. There are many different brands and sizes of clay bars being sold. See what's out there and decide for yourself.
Here's the link to Wolfgang Car Care's Elastic Poly Clay Bar.
OR
Do a Froogle (Google.com) search for: clay+bar
06-24-2005, 01:42 AM
#37
07-01-2005, 08:58 PM
#38
Originally Posted by PrinzII
07-01-2005, 09:05 PM
#39
Originally Posted by PrinzII
Was it recently on sale for $9.95?
