djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Your headphone OUTPUT from the Nexus only has left and right. (4 wires total)

Your SLC4 INPUT has 4 channels. Total of 8 wires.

Split the headphone output wires. You need to make 8 from 4. Connect the left output to both front and rear input on the left, and connect the right input to both front and rear input on the right. Naturally, positives connect to positives and negatives connect to negatives.

sputhurk

Thanks for your quick reply.
My bad again. I thought the headphone output has only 2 wires. By next week I should be able to assemble the nexus 7. Waiting for just one part.

Thanks again.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Left/right X positive/negative = 4

Binfamous

iTrader: (1)

Got aftermarket speakers with Bose HU. Replaced Bose HU with avh p-4300 and now no sound. I'm guessing I no longer need the Pac oem-1 being that everything is aftermarket. What do I need to check/do in order to get sound?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Without sounding rude, I recommend reading this thread. It has all the basic info you need to start troubleshooting.

This type of issue should be straightforward.

sputhurk

Hello Again,

I got the Metra wiring harness part# 70-7550 for 99 Nissan Maxima Bose system and I have the following questions:

1. Cable # 9, per your harness guide in the first page, The larger harness is missing Shield Wire Ground (ground wire runs with signal cables(+ and -) for front BOSE amplifiers to shield their signal). Do I need this cable?

2. I also see the Shield Wire Ground (Cable # 11). Should I connect these shield wires to the Ground? or can I leave these open?

3. Cable # 12- Amp On Signal Wire (turns on all 4 BOSE amplifiers) - I believe this is not a power cable for the Amp. Am I right?

In my case ( using the Nexus 7 as the stereo HU) how do I trigger this signal?

Pls advise.

Thanks for your great forum again.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

1. I THINK you are referring to standard ground, but need a picture from you to confirm.

2. Similar to #1, if a standard ground, connect together, then ground to chassis.

3. Your nexus does not have this. Recommend just tapping off of your red ACC wire.

sputhurk

Thanks for your quick reply.
Here is the wiring diagram from the first page:

Larger Harness:

10_8 ___4_2
9_7_6_5_3_1

1 = Front Left -
2 = Front Left +
...
9 = Shield Wire Ground (ground wire runs with signal cables(+ and -) for front BOSE amplifiers to shield their signal)
10 = ACC/Ignition (the red wire)

Smaller Harness:

16_______12
15_14_13_11

11 = Shield Wire Ground (ground wire runs with signal cables(+ and -) for rear BOSE amplifiers to shield their signal)
12 = Amp On Signal Wire (turns on all 4 BOSE amplifiers)

For Item #1 & 2.
Cable # 9 & 10 are the Shield Wire Ground. Can this be considered as the common ground for the chassis? Since the Cable #9 missing in my Metra harness, can I leave the cable slot alone.

For Item # 3
Yes, I'm planning to tap the red wire for the tablet power. But what about Cable # 12- Amp On Signal Wire? Can I leave this alone? I was under the assumption that if we leave the cable alone, the Amp will not power up.

Pls advise.

Thanks again.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Ground them both.

Red wire should ALSO power the amp remote turn-on.

sputhurk

Thanks again for your quick reply.

I got all of the questions answered and will update the forum once I'm done with the project.

sputhurk

Just wanted to give an update on my project. I was able to connect my Google Nexus 7 to the factory stereo harness successfully. Thank you. Without your help I wouldn't have accomplished this. Now I need to work on the tablet mount using the factory stereo facia.

When I connected the tablet, the sound was good, but I forgot to start the car and see if I get the same quality sound. I had to connect the Power (12+Red Wire) to the Amp On signal (Cable 12 on your diagram). Pls let me know if there is a better way to do this.

Thanks again.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Accessory wire (red, 12v) to remote turn on (blue/white stripe) is correct.

Glad it all works. Pics!!

sputhurk

Sure. I will upload the pic once I'm done with the tablet mount using the DVD drive.

Thanks

teejay1786

hello i was wondering if anyone could tell me why my bose system in my 2001 maxima se keeps cutting out ive tried everything and ive even tried the pac-roem nis2 and still it cuts out im not dumb and have installed many stereos before im lost can anyone help me i have a massive ground so....?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Please start by telling us exactly what you have installed.

teejay1786

i have a eclipse head unit and the pac roem nis2 thats it rest of the bose is stock

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Still need more details.

Model numbers. Configuration. How specifically it is wired? Who did the install?

Clearly something is not done right.

teejay1786

i installed it and the head unit is the eclipse cd5030 and i installed the pac roem nis2 thats it

teejay1786

the way i wired it is exactly how it looks color for color no wires are loose or amiss im very specific and also have two other vehicles with complete systems hooked up i have all the blue wires to one spot and i have a massive ground and ive hooked it up every way low level + only then high level + only still it cuts out

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

STILL not enough fcking info. Please be clear and concise. Use punctuation. Help us help you.

When specifically does it cut out? When you raise the volume? When you go over bumps? Randomly?

This HU has 5v preouts. You don't need the PAC ROEM-NIS2. You can wire it directly using a Metra 70-7551. Rewire it - properly this time, using good solid connections - and report back.

teejay1786

it cuts out random and ive already tried that harness and the 7550 they both do not work and this pac roem nis2 also does not work

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You're not doing something right. Process of elimination. What is cutting out? Speaker amp, sub amp, or both? Maybe it's your deck. Maybe you have a loose connection.

teejay1786

just the little sub in the back and the amps because there is still music just no sub or bass ive done this before ive already checked everything ground power remote the deck is fine

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

It's your sub amp. They are known to cut out. Search around. There are DIY fixes, or just replace it.

teejay1786

ok thanks i will look around one more question do u know why my 7550 harness the one without anything no rcas would sound the best cause with that one hooked up it cuts out less and sounds the best?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

It has to do with the preout voltage's compatibility to the Bose system. Read this thread. You'll get the info you need.

cdoublejj

would this fit my 202 maxima BOSE system?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cfmdp9j...ml#details-tab

are they any good the frequency response is 45 - 25k Hz, so i'm not sure if it would be better than factory.

also forget price for now (if i were to buy i'd be getting a deal)

would the speakers have to be used sans crossover?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

^^ They will physically fit and should be used with the included crossovers.

"Good" is what sounds good to you. Some people like heavy bass. Some people like clear highs. Recommend listening to them prior to purchasing.

cdoublejj

so if i hooked them up with the included crossover it WON'T catch fire?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Why do you think it would catch fire?

cdoublejj

well you can't install normal speakers but, these are 4ohm so i guess i'm just being negative/doubtful.

i do have a concern though, the odd bit is each speaker supposedly has it's own amp, as far as the factory system. i wonder if it's soldered to the speaker or inline with the wires/cables. how does that work out?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

No, these speakers are 2ohm, which makes it compatible with your Bose system.

Where does it say they have separate amps? I'm not seeing that.

cdoublejj

Here on the forums in the 5th gen section i could have swore i read that each speaker has it's own amp. that's why it's so different form other systems and that's why you can install just any head unit and you need a special adapter. also that is the reason why it uses low ohm speakers and why you can't use normal 8 ohm speakers like most cars.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Close, but not quite.

It is 4th gen Bose system that has a small amp at each speaker, not 5th gen. In the 4th gen it makes replacing the speakers much easier. In the 5th gen, there is a centralized speaker amp under the rear deck which is wired to each speaker.

Both 4th and 5th gen run at 2ohm. It is the Bose system that dictates the impedance. If you had a Maxima without Bose, then it would be running at 8ohm.

cdoublejj

so it sounds like i'm all good then as long as i have 2 ohm speakers. i just wish i knew for sure what i'm getting is better than factory.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

It will sound better, but its your source that makes the biggest difference. If you replace the OEM HU with an aftermarket one, that will make it sound even better.

sputhurk

Sorry, for the delay. There was a change in the design.
I didn't use the DVD Drive to mount the tablet. Instead, I mounted the tablet on top of the compartment(Tray) using duct tape. I used the compartment because its already got the push lock mechanism. So, in locked tray position, the tablet is completely inside and when I want to take it out, I can simply push the tray to unlock it. It's very simple and the duct tape holds the stereo facia well with the compartment/tray.

Here are couple of pictures of my new dash.




I have also kept a 4 Port USB hub inside the dash so that I can connect multiple USB disks /devices to the tablet. It's working great so far. I wanted to keep the USB hub inside the center console. But I didn't get time to do that. I have also ordered a Push Button switch to turn on/off the Amplifier.

Thanks again for all your support.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Is this your finished product? In order to access the USB hub and optical drive, you have to remove the fascia panel which has the tablet mounted to it?

Additionally, your finishing material on the visible part of the dash piece is seemingly...black duct tape? Or black electrical tape? And is the finishing piece made of a wood of some sort??

No offense, but this looks terrible.

- Dash piece should be made of some sort of plastic. Sheets of ABS plastic are very cheap and easy to work with.
- Dash piece should be painted.
- Trim panel should be securely mounted without a "remove to access" feature. You clearly have spare room underneath the tablet. Put the optical tray there, not behind. And flush mount some USB ports on an access panel.

I'm glad it works, but your 'finishing' needs some further thought.

sputhurk

Thanks for the comments.
Actually, no, its not a finished product. I have to get the dash sticker to put on top of the fascia. I put the tape on top of the fascia because I didn;t get the same color fascia. My trim color is black and don;t want to use it. So I ordered a used fascia from ebay, but I got only the wood trim color.

Now I'm not using the optical drive to hold the tablet. I made a holder on the back of the fascia and it's mounted on the compartment. So when I push the compartment/tray open, the entire fascia on which the tablet is mounted comes out and I can take the tablet out easily. I know it's a dirty work, but I will definitely try to implement your suggestions soon.

Thanks again!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Cool, glad its all mocked up properly. Now it just requires that level of finesse to finish it up - and sounds like you're well on your way for that.

Definitely post finished pics!