Big 3 done, dramatic diffrence in system??
10-03-2005, 07:32 PM
#1
Big 3 done, dramatic diffrence in system??
So i finally got around to doing the big 3.....and i dunno if its cause i had to reset my radio settings or its the big 3(which i think cause all my settings are less than they were or not completly adjusted) but my system is like WAY louder/better/clearer even than it was... for example i used to listen at volume 30(that being the max id go) and now at volume 25(is my max now) its lounder than it ever was at 30, bass and highs but clear......is this all to thanks too the big 3 upgrade? if so i just gotta say damn. everyone should do this.......... makes me enjoy the system even more again......
10-04-2005, 04:03 AM
#5
i used 4 guage also only place i saw where 0 might be needed was at the battery, buti figured just use the stock batt ground thats there and add another 4 guage too it, would be plenty.... i also have a 140 amp alternator, like 30 or so bigger than stock
Big 3 is tha bomb.
08-26-2007, 11:46 AM
#8
Ive grounded everything else and then some, some the question is ? Is doing the positive wire on the alt to the battery really worth it. Seems a little difficult to get to. I also have used up all my conections and only have 1 8 gauge slot open. Will that be enough?
08-26-2007, 03:59 PM
#10
didnt make a noticeable difference for me. 
Then again, I haven't had a sub setup in my car for almost 6 months, just a highs amp - and i did it a few months ago. I guess time will tell (as soon as i get something new)...
this is a pretty old thread.
Then again, I haven't had a sub setup in my car for almost 6 months, just a highs amp - and i did it a few months ago. I guess time will tell (as soon as i get something new)...this is a pretty old thread.
08-26-2007, 06:15 PM
#12
I tend to get a bit irritable
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Originally Posted by redls1
Ive grounded everything else and then some, some the question is ? Is doing the positive wire on the alt to the battery really worth it. Seems a little difficult to get to. I also have used up all my conections and only have 1 8 gauge slot open. Will that be enough?
Yes, when was easy work ever really worth it?
08-27-2007, 03:45 PM
#14
I tend to get a bit irritable
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3 various ground points under your hood. Seems to improve overall performance by changing these wires out to better ones.
The only silly/stupid questions are those left unasked.
The only silly/stupid questions are those left unasked.
08-27-2007, 08:26 PM
#16
Originally Posted by JEXTEL
I want to do but will it good to add 4 gauge? like leave the stock wires and add the 4 guage so it will be 2 runs because 0 cost alot and I have tons of 4 guage...
08-27-2007, 08:51 PM
#18
Originally Posted by JEXTEL
cool what yall guys use to crimp 4-0 guage wires? besides a vice
08-29-2007, 02:09 PM
#23
Originally Posted by JEXTEL
I want to do but will it good to add 4 gauge? like leave the stock wires and add the 4 guage so it will be 2 runs because 0 gauge cost alot and I have tons of 4 guage...
Jae
08-29-2007, 02:42 PM
#24
Originally Posted by JEXTEL
I did that and all of them came loose at some point
Turn it around and hammer until you can''t anymore
08-29-2007, 03:19 PM
#25
i did 0 gauge positive input to distro, 0 gauge ground to chassis of car from batt terminal, upgraded the alt wire with 4gauge, also upgraded the wire coming from the fuse box to 4 gauge instead of dual 8gauge from factory, upgraded the starter solenoid wire, and also upgraded the factory ground to 4gauge wire. The dimming in my car is minimal, but you must remember most dimming is due to the ohm load of the sub amp. Usually 1-2 ohms will draw the most current, and 4 ohms usually doesnt put as much strain on the cars electrical system. Also depending on the design of the internal powersupply of the amp the certain type whether it may be Class A, A/B, or Class D may draw more or less. Usually Class D amps carry a good power to efficiency ratio.
08-29-2007, 04:45 PM
#27
Originally Posted by DcMaN
The dimming in my car is minimal, but you must remember most dimming is due to the ohm load of the sub amp. Usually 1-2 ohms will draw the most current, and 4 ohms usually doesnt put as much strain on the cars electrical system.
Please slap the person that told you that ohms are the reason for dimming. Current draw is the reason for dimming.
08-29-2007, 06:21 PM
#28
I tend to get a bit irritable
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TECHNICALLY it *could* affect it, but only because the amp is being driven harder - thus more current draw. But in the real world, no impedance has Absolutely Nothing to do with strain on the electrical.
08-30-2007, 11:37 AM
#29
what if the amp does all ohm loads at the same power. Say the amp does 1-4 ohms @ 1000 rms. Your basically saying if you put it at 1 ohm the lights will dim the same amount as 4 ohms right ? Maybe its just me, or maybe it depends on the type of the amp, but ive definatly noticed more dimming at a lower ohm load than at a higher impediance. But like i said maybe its just me.
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