6th Gen ECU + VQ35 + Osiris in a 4th Gen Swap
06-22-2012, 04:49 PM
#1
6th Gen ECU + VQ35 + Osiris in a 4th Gen Swap
This is gonna get messy.....
The plug on the right hand side comes from the dash harness..... The plug on the left is from the engine harness, NBD.
I was planning on wiring them into current body functions to save some trouble.....
82 - APP Sensor 1 Ground
83 - APP Sensor 2 Ground
85 - Data Link Connector
86 - Can Communication line
90 - APP Sensor 1 Power Supply
91 - APP Sensor 2 Pwoer Supply
94 - Can Communication line
98 - APP Sensor 2
101 - Stop Lamp Switch
102 - PNP Switch
104 - Throttle Control Motor Relay
106 - APP Sensor 1
107 - Fuel Tank Temp Sensor
109 - Ignition Switch
111 - ECM Relay
113 - FueL Pump Relay
115 - ECM Ground
116 - ECM Ground
117 - Evap Canister Vent Control Valve
119 - Power Supply
120 - Power Supply
121 - Power Supply (Backup)
The ones in Red are the ones I'm all
about....
The ones in Lime are the ones I'm wondering do I even need to bother with?
The rest will either not be touched (using a 6th gen dash harness) or wired into existing 4th gen wires....
The gas pedal plug is NOT a part of the dash harness
The Gauge cluster is an 05 Sentra Spec-V Cluster, details on why I used this can be found in Surratt's thread.
The plug on the right hand side comes from the dash harness..... The plug on the left is from the engine harness, NBD.
I was planning on wiring them into current body functions to save some trouble.....
82 - APP Sensor 1 Ground
83 - APP Sensor 2 Ground
85 - Data Link Connector
86 - Can Communication line
90 - APP Sensor 1 Power Supply
91 - APP Sensor 2 Pwoer Supply
94 - Can Communication line
98 - APP Sensor 2
101 - Stop Lamp Switch
102 - PNP Switch
104 - Throttle Control Motor Relay
106 - APP Sensor 1
107 - Fuel Tank Temp Sensor
109 - Ignition Switch
111 - ECM Relay
113 - FueL Pump Relay
115 - ECM Ground
116 - ECM Ground
117 - Evap Canister Vent Control Valve
119 - Power Supply
120 - Power Supply
121 - Power Supply (Backup)
The ones in Red are the ones I'm all
about....The ones in Lime are the ones I'm wondering do I even need to bother with?
The rest will either not be touched (using a 6th gen dash harness) or wired into existing 4th gen wires....
The gas pedal plug is NOT a part of the dash harness
The Gauge cluster is an 05 Sentra Spec-V Cluster, details on why I used this can be found in Surratt's thread.
Last edited by aackshun; 06-22-2012 at 05:03 PM.
06-22-2012, 06:33 PM
#4
oh man!!! 
thought about doing that. i even had everything but i just couldn't do it to time restraints. glad someone else is doing this. im excited to see the results.
one thing im wondering though is all your ignition, key, and ecu from the same car?
thought about doing that. i even had everything but i just couldn't do it to time restraints. glad someone else is doing this. im excited to see the results.
one thing im wondering though is all your ignition, key, and ecu from the same car?
06-22-2012, 06:35 PM
#5
Hes going to use UpRev osiris, no NATS key issues at all.
Thats the only way to do the swap, that way you can fully tune the motor. Otherwise running a stock ecu would defeat the whole reason to swap the newer ecu.
06-22-2012, 07:03 PM
#8
It was possible 2 years ago, I done it in my 5.5 gen, but didn't want to live without cruise control haah.
Aaron, you could look into the ABS unit and possibly get cruise working. Its def a hassle tho.
edit: Or you could look into a cable TB, and use the older cable cruise control system (maybe)
06-23-2012, 11:51 AM
#11
Yeah this is a very doable swap bro. I don't envy you the headache of wiring that dash tho... tell you what bro. I will race you to completion, first to post a vid of their max running. Whaddaya say?
06-23-2012, 12:03 PM
#12
06-27-2012, 07:57 AM
#18
6MT as for said contest...... I'll have it "running" by Maxus.
It won't be doing anything but just sitting around but it will be "running".
It won't be doing anything but just sitting around but it will be "running".
Last edited by aackshun; 06-27-2012 at 08:00 AM.
06-27-2012, 02:27 PM
#19
06-27-2012, 03:31 PM
#20
Think you will be up and running within a months time frame?
06-28-2012, 06:18 AM
#22
I'm gonna assume it's an auto 5AT, cause I know it's not a 6MT motor. It came w/ the motor I brought, all I care about is.... It's complete.... and it plugs into my ECU, I'm happy w/ that alone.
I do, but I also have a lot of other things that keep my occupied.
I do, but I also have a lot of other things that keep my occupied.
06-28-2012, 08:24 AM
#23
like grammar lessons.
06-28-2012, 11:52 AM
#25
[QUOTE=aackshun;8526657]I'm gonna assume it's an auto 5AT, cause I know it's not a 6MT motor. It came w/ the motor I brought, all I care about is.... It's complete.... and it plugs into my ECU, I'm happy w/ that alone.
ok so I'm having a bit of trouble following this. perhaps I am asking a stupid question... ur runnin a mt 6spd and ur gonna wire it to a 6th gen vq35de with an at wiring harness. I am assuming by your spaghetti bowl looking dash that you know how to wire, so I'm not doubting you got skillz but how is this possible????
ok so I'm having a bit of trouble following this. perhaps I am asking a stupid question... ur runnin a mt 6spd and ur gonna wire it to a 6th gen vq35de with an at wiring harness. I am assuming by your spaghetti bowl looking dash that you know how to wire, so I'm not doubting you got skillz but how is this possible????
06-28-2012, 12:25 PM
#26
ok so I'm having a bit of trouble following this. perhaps I am asking a stupid question... ur runnin a mt 6spd and ur gonna wire it to a 6th gen vq35de with an at wiring harness. I am assuming by your spaghetti bowl looking dash that you know how to wire, so I'm not doubting you got skillz but how is this possible????
There is NO wiring to do for the engine itself, I just won't have reverse lights for the time being.
The right side plug is the one that needs wiring which I detailed in my first post.
I'm only adding extra wires to my existing dash harness inside of the car.
I'm using the Full 3.5 swap for 02-03 Maximas (into 4th gens) as my basis for ideas on how to get things running since a lot of the 02-03 swap is going to share the same thing (gas pedal, throttle body motor, rewiring the speedometer, etc). I am guessing that's where some of the confusion is starting from....
Last edited by aackshun; 06-29-2012 at 06:32 AM.
07-02-2012, 07:11 PM
#28
Got this badboy right hurrr.... 6th Gen gas pedal + pigtail. This I hope just needs to get wired directly into the dash harness.... Hopefully I won't be frying anything by not adding fuses or what not
You can't quite eat off of it, but it's certainly 1000x better than before... lets just say I had the typical 95/96 oil leak and it looked wrinkle painted black before hand
On the 4th I'll swap over oil pans before putting the motor in the caw.
I'm gonna buy a new rear main seal and crank seals for insurance, i'll be running 0w oil, I don't want ANY leaks.
QUESTION TO THE 3.0 OIL PAN SWAPPERS:
What did you do about the oil strainers? Can I use the old 3.5 one?
Can I use the 3.5 lower oil pan?
I'll find this out in due time, but I can save the trouble and order a new oil pan ahead of time because my 3.0 Strainer and Lower Oil pan are dented.....
Last edited by aackshun; 07-02-2012 at 07:51 PM.
07-06-2012, 07:27 AM
#29
Typical 95/96 oil leak?
Thats news to me. Where is does this "typical" leak come out from?
The only typical leak Im aware of is from the oil pressure sending unit, or rear valve cover but thats not 95-96 exclusive.
Thats news to me. Where is does this "typical" leak come out from?
The only typical leak Im aware of is from the oil pressure sending unit, or rear valve cover but thats not 95-96 exclusive.
07-06-2012, 09:23 AM
#30
Inner timing cover apparently, I don't know where it is, but my mechanic has fixed 3 already, said it's a common problem for those years, and I've had 2 motors w/ the leak so I believe him, plus I KNOWWWWW my 99's oil pan didn't look anywhere near as bad as the white nightmare's.
Also my friend's 95 has an oil leak too and the 95 I last pulled a tranny on was the same (oil+dirt just caked on in layers).
I just looked @ the diagram..... It appears that it's maybe one of the o-rings that fail, I do remember him saying something about bad orings..... I just hope it's not one of the o-rings that are in the upper oil pan
Also my friend's 95 has an oil leak too and the 95 I last pulled a tranny on was the same (oil+dirt just caked on in layers).
I just looked @ the diagram..... It appears that it's maybe one of the o-rings that fail, I do remember him saying something about bad orings..... I just hope it's not one of the o-rings that are in the upper oil pan
Last edited by aackshun; 07-06-2012 at 12:15 PM.
07-08-2012, 09:57 PM
#32
Ok got a little bit of work done this weekend. Pics will come later but....
3.0 Upper Oil Pan + 3.5 Oil Strainer + 3.5 Oil Cooler + 3.5 Lower oil pan = Sucess!!!
Pro-tip: Use a 7mm Socket to remove the screws in the 3.0 upper oil pan baffle. The 3.5 baffle is bolted to the Block and not the upper oil pan, so you can't baffle your baffle.... One has to go for clearance, and I doubt you can keep the 3.0 baffle.... so it went bye bye!
I think the strainer to lower oil pan clearance is lower.... but as long as I don't bottom out I should be fine.
I have to pick up some gaskets + rear main seal before I close the motor back up and get to work on the rest of it for dropping it in.
3.0 Upper Oil Pan + 3.5 Oil Strainer + 3.5 Oil Cooler + 3.5 Lower oil pan = Sucess!!!
Pro-tip: Use a 7mm Socket to remove the screws in the 3.0 upper oil pan baffle. The 3.5 baffle is bolted to the Block and not the upper oil pan, so you can't baffle your baffle.... One has to go for clearance, and I doubt you can keep the 3.0 baffle.... so it went bye bye!
I think the strainer to lower oil pan clearance is lower.... but as long as I don't bottom out I should be fine.
I have to pick up some gaskets + rear main seal before I close the motor back up and get to work on the rest of it for dropping it in.
07-11-2012, 01:43 PM
#34
07-14-2012, 09:29 PM
#35
Ok, I took the hard way of finding out this so the next person who does this swap doesn't have to waste as much time as I did.
The plug from the Dash harness (on the far left) is connected to ONLY ONE wire (that isn't CAN-LAN wires) through the dash harness. The rest of the wires all go to plugs that go to the front chassis harness, IMO an in-efficient way of doing things but that's how Nissan saw fit to do this for a lot of their vehicles.....
Sooo if anyone wants to save time..... Just trace the wires from the dash plug as far back as you please and cut away. The one wire you would be inclined to save is the "Data Communication" wire, it goes straight from the ECU to the OBDII port.
The OBDII port has the following wires: CAN High, Can Low, Data Communication, Ground and one random green wire that goes to the front chassis harness....
The CAN wires are nothing special, there are quite a few throughout the dash harness but they are all joined by solder towards the middle of the dash harness.
Once you remove what you need you're left w/ a big useless ball of wires.....
I just tossed it into a big box.
Anyways, back on subject.
The speedo is from a Sentra Spec-V as you already know, Surratt who first attempted this came up w/ this idea and got it to work in his car, I'm a bit un-sure cause the 4th gen may do things a bit differently.... I have yet to even begin making a reference chart from 4th gen to 6th gen and 4th gen to spec-v, that will be tomorrow's job, everything is tagged and ready to be wired up... ONCE I find what I need though :/
Anyways.... Engine harness is in, I need to figure out what to do about the positive terminal and the engine room harness and fuses.... Some wires will need to be ran from the dash harness plug to under the hood, I will start on that tomorrow morning.
Some more pics:
Kthxbai '99 glory!
And helloooo '04 maxima stuff!!
The plug from the Dash harness (on the far left) is connected to ONLY ONE wire (that isn't CAN-LAN wires) through the dash harness. The rest of the wires all go to plugs that go to the front chassis harness, IMO an in-efficient way of doing things but that's how Nissan saw fit to do this for a lot of their vehicles.....
Sooo if anyone wants to save time..... Just trace the wires from the dash plug as far back as you please and cut away. The one wire you would be inclined to save is the "Data Communication" wire, it goes straight from the ECU to the OBDII port.
The OBDII port has the following wires: CAN High, Can Low, Data Communication, Ground and one random green wire that goes to the front chassis harness....
The CAN wires are nothing special, there are quite a few throughout the dash harness but they are all joined by solder towards the middle of the dash harness.
Once you remove what you need you're left w/ a big useless ball of wires.....
I just tossed it into a big box.
Anyways, back on subject.
The speedo is from a Sentra Spec-V as you already know, Surratt who first attempted this came up w/ this idea and got it to work in his car, I'm a bit un-sure cause the 4th gen may do things a bit differently.... I have yet to even begin making a reference chart from 4th gen to 6th gen and 4th gen to spec-v, that will be tomorrow's job, everything is tagged and ready to be wired up... ONCE I find what I need though :/
Anyways.... Engine harness is in, I need to figure out what to do about the positive terminal and the engine room harness and fuses.... Some wires will need to be ran from the dash harness plug to under the hood, I will start on that tomorrow morning.
Some more pics:
Kthxbai '99 glory!
And helloooo '04 maxima stuff!!
07-15-2012, 07:04 AM
#36
I'm posting this here so I can read it on my phone while I'm in the car 
The colors are now accurate.
99 Maxima Speedometer Pins
Pin Chart EL-73
1 - Batt Light - White/Red
2 - Speedometer
4 - Speedometer
5 - fuel gauge - Orange/blue
9 - Fuel Light - Red/Black
10 - Door - Red/White
11 - ABS - Blue/Red
12 - Brake Light - Yellow/Red
13 - Air Bag - Red/White
14 - water temp
15 - Power - Yellow/Blue
16 - ground
30 - Batt Light - White/Red
31 - Oil Light - Brown/Yellow
37 - Ignition power - Green
39 - Seat Belt - Green/red
I can't get the sentra cluster to light up though :/
The colors are now accurate.
99 Maxima Speedometer Pins
Pin Chart EL-73
1 - Batt Light - White/Red
2 - Speedometer
4 - Speedometer
5 - fuel gauge - Orange/blue
9 - Fuel Light - Red/Black
10 - Door - Red/White
11 - ABS - Blue/Red
12 - Brake Light - Yellow/Red
13 - Air Bag - Red/White
14 - water temp
15 - Power - Yellow/Blue
16 - ground
30 - Batt Light - White/Red
31 - Oil Light - Brown/Yellow
37 - Ignition power - Green
39 - Seat Belt - Green/red
I can't get the sentra cluster to light up though :/
Last edited by aackshun; 07-15-2012 at 10:35 AM.
08-08-2012, 01:44 PM
#37
You get yours running yet? If not how close you be?
08-23-2012, 09:02 PM
#38
But hey it's nice to have power... Well not anymore, I'm putting le battery in le trunk now, I have like 20x things going on at once, not smart, but the car is down, minus well do everything I wanted to.....
Once I get my act straight and buy Osiris you should be hearing from me soon... via youtube.
But the car is going back down again after I have it running.... I have a lot of other things to do before it leaves the garage again though.
Last edited by aackshun; 08-23-2012 at 09:07 PM.
08-25-2012, 09:45 AM
#39