Bent the Valves in my VG...What Needs to Be Done?
#1
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Bent the Valves in my VG...What Needs to Be Done?
Long story short, the TB slipped off my VG30E's motor while running at idle.
The rear bank has two cylinders that are down on compression, and one that has none.
Obviously, I need some new valves, but what else needs to be replaced / done?
I know how the internals on an engine are put together / operate, but I have yet to have fix / replace any.
Do I need to replace the valve seats along with the valves? Can you / how do you adjust valves on an overhead cam engine?
Any insight / hints/ tips would be much appreciated. Thanks
The rear bank has two cylinders that are down on compression, and one that has none.
Obviously, I need some new valves, but what else needs to be replaced / done?
I know how the internals on an engine are put together / operate, but I have yet to have fix / replace any.
Do I need to replace the valve seats along with the valves? Can you / how do you adjust valves on an overhead cam engine?
Any insight / hints/ tips would be much appreciated. Thanks
#3
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I wouldn't necessarily consider pulling the motor as easy as pulling the head(s). Besides, I have taken extremely good car of my motor over the years, whereas who knows how a donor motor has been treated / how often the oil has been changed?
#4
I can't speak to how you've taken care of your motor vs. a junkyard motor, you have a valid point there and it's a significant consideration, but as far as ease of work it's unquestionably easier to yank and replace the motor than to replace the valves on on a VG. This information is from someone who has both rebuilt VGs (and many other motors) and swapped them out many times.
#7
I did the samething to my vg. You need to pull the heads and see if ur pistons r still good. If not then a rebuild is in ur future, otherwise I suggest getting heads from a 97-01 vg33e as it would be cheaper than trying to repair ur old heads. If u go this route, consider getting mild port, valve job plus some cams. Next replace all oil seals, T belt/tensioner, water pump, exh studs and head bolts.
#11
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I bit too much work and money involved with that...I just want to get it running again.
I have a big-power car, for what that would cost I could have significantly better gains on my LT4.
I have a big-power car, for what that would cost I could have significantly better gains on my LT4.
Last edited by maxitech; 01-05-2010 at 10:49 AM.
#12
no matter how much money you sink into a Maxima, it's still a nose-heavy FWD car while you have a Vette in the driveway right next to it. As you've said, best solution is to just do a "stock fix" put the play money into the Vette.
That said, when you coming to the track with that thing? I'd love to go flog it a while and show you how it should be driven.
That said, when you coming to the track with that thing? I'd love to go flog it a while and show you how it should be driven.
#13
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no matter how much money you sink into a Maxima, it's still a nose-heavy FWD car while you have a Vette in the driveway right next to it. As you've said, best solution is to just do a "stock fix" put the play money into the Vette.
That said, when you coming to the track with that thing? I'd love to go flog it a while and show you how it should be driven.
That said, when you coming to the track with that thing? I'd love to go flog it a while and show you how it should be driven.
The 'Vette has a fresh clutch, tires, and brakes. Give me a call and we'll set something up...
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