Transgo RE4F04A-HD2 Reprogramming Kit Install
12-13-2009, 10:59 AM
#1
Transgo RE4F04A-HD2 Reprogramming Kit Install
After 3 hard years of use and abuse I decided to replace my trans. 192 passes this year, 438 last year and over 500 in 2007, thats a lot of abuse. It also doesn't count the numerous testing I have done on the road at a deserted piece of highway near home. All of those passes were racing, I don't do T&T at the track, racing only.
My current trans is still working fine on the street but I have noticed the last couple of events that it is slipping a bit at the top of 3rd gear just before the traps. I believe its the 3rd gear clutch and replacing the clutches is more expensive than another trans.
Carpart.com is your friend and I found a trans from a 99 with only 2500 miles on it in NY State. The wrecker got the car in Dec 99 and it looks brand new.
My original plan was to just swap the diff and stick it back in but I decided to give the Transgo kit a try and see what it does. This is not for the lighthearted but its not rocket science either.
Below are some pics of the trans and the diff swap, tomorrow I will do the VB and take some more pics so you can see how involved it is.
This is the new trans with converter removed.
This is with the converter housing removed, exposing the differential and oil pump.
This compares the stock diff and Jime's locker diff.
T
My current trans is still working fine on the street but I have noticed the last couple of events that it is slipping a bit at the top of 3rd gear just before the traps. I believe its the 3rd gear clutch and replacing the clutches is more expensive than another trans.
Carpart.com is your friend and I found a trans from a 99 with only 2500 miles on it in NY State. The wrecker got the car in Dec 99 and it looks brand new.
My original plan was to just swap the diff and stick it back in but I decided to give the Transgo kit a try and see what it does. This is not for the lighthearted but its not rocket science either.
Below are some pics of the trans and the diff swap, tomorrow I will do the VB and take some more pics so you can see how involved it is.
This is the new trans with converter removed.
This is with the converter housing removed, exposing the differential and oil pump.
This compares the stock diff and Jime's locker diff.
T
Last edited by Jime; 12-13-2009 at 11:22 AM.
12-13-2009, 07:21 PM
#9
Very nice! I am really liking that locked diff. I see what you meant by welding it in various points. I think you said you had it welded in 4 different spots. Nice pic BTW.
I am going to have to convert from my VLSD diff to an open diff, then I will be able to weld it. I believe a 4th gen open diff will work just fine in my 3rd gen RE4F04V trans.
I hope you have good results with the new tranny.
I am going to have to convert from my VLSD diff to an open diff, then I will be able to weld it. I believe a 4th gen open diff will work just fine in my 3rd gen RE4F04V trans.
I hope you have good results with the new tranny.
12-13-2009, 08:52 PM
#10
Looking forward to this thread, looks like you'll be installing your kit before me. I have'nt had time with school, now its finished but drive way was just painted lol so i have to find place to work on the car. I went over and over the kit's instructions and is not really that bad, I mean if we could put an engine together this shouldnt be a big deal. goodluk Jim
12-15-2009, 08:26 AM
#12
First printout pages 220-232 of the FSM. These show the complete disassembly and assembly the the VB showing bolts as letters as pertaining to their length and sequence. Your page numbers may be slightly different in the FSM depending on what year you have. The instructions with the Transgo only show the necessary changes, not how to take it apart, the FSM is very precise and complete in its instructions.
I won't show each step of disassembly you can read that in the FSM for yourself, just the modifications required and any things to be careful of.
My camera doesn't like the cold (its -3 today) so I have to leave it inside until I want to take a picture and then return it.
Caution: Don't remove any bolts or turn anything over unless you are instructed to do so in the FSM. There are several ball bearings and springs that will fall out if you do.
The bolts are identified by letters in the FSM by length and I suggest having a piece of paper with the appropriate letters (A-F) and laying the bolts beside the letters to keep them in order.
1. Remove bolts a,d and nut f and remove strainer, VB now looks like this.
2. Remove solenoid valve assembly (4 bolts) and line pressure solenoid (2 bolts). There is a spring in the line pressure solenoid hole, remove and place with solenoid until ready to reinstall. Pic with noids removed.
2. Remove bolts c and nut f remove lower body from inter body and flip it over. It now looks like this.
I won't show each step of disassembly you can read that in the FSM for yourself, just the modifications required and any things to be careful of.
My camera doesn't like the cold (its -3 today) so I have to leave it inside until I want to take a picture and then return it.
Caution: Don't remove any bolts or turn anything over unless you are instructed to do so in the FSM. There are several ball bearings and springs that will fall out if you do.
The bolts are identified by letters in the FSM by length and I suggest having a piece of paper with the appropriate letters (A-F) and laying the bolts beside the letters to keep them in order.
1. Remove bolts a,d and nut f and remove strainer, VB now looks like this.
2. Remove solenoid valve assembly (4 bolts) and line pressure solenoid (2 bolts). There is a spring in the line pressure solenoid hole, remove and place with solenoid until ready to reinstall. Pic with noids removed.
2. Remove bolts c and nut f remove lower body from inter body and flip it over. It now looks like this.
Last edited by Jime; 12-15-2009 at 08:39 AM.
12-15-2009, 08:35 AM
#13
3. Remove intra body from upper body. Looks like this. Caution: This little plastic strainer (upper right corner) falls out very easily and must be placed back in its exact location or the upper and intra bodies will not mate. It is not apparent how it should be positioned so make sure to take note of its exact position for assembly.
4. From here on follow the Transgo instruction sheet. There are a number of springs, bearings, valves etc that must be replaced. Use the enclosed tools to remove the plugs and don't force them. There are also a number of holes to be drilled larger in the main separator plate and valve body and a rivet to be installed.
Its not hard just need to follow the instructions closely and don't remove any bolts unless the FSM indicates.
5. Reverse the procedure to assemble but do not reinstall yet. I didn't change any of the rings etc inside the trans as my trans only has 2500 miles and I wasn't about to disassemble the whole trans to do it.
6. There is one other mod to the 4th piston assembly which is totally separate from the VB but the VB needs to be out to do it. It is located here.
It looks like this removed.
Just follow the instructions to replace springs etc. When you reinstall just push on the cover to see if it will seat, if not you will have to back off the band adjustment on the other side of the trans until its seats all the way, don't force it.
Then follow the instructions for adjusting the band and ensure the band will slide side to side easily as indicated.
7. Now reinstall the modified VB and reinstall pan with new gasket supplied. Make sure to clean the pan and magnets before installing.
8. Now I just have to wait until spring to reinstall the engine and trans before I can try it out.
4. From here on follow the Transgo instruction sheet. There are a number of springs, bearings, valves etc that must be replaced. Use the enclosed tools to remove the plugs and don't force them. There are also a number of holes to be drilled larger in the main separator plate and valve body and a rivet to be installed.
Its not hard just need to follow the instructions closely and don't remove any bolts unless the FSM indicates.
5. Reverse the procedure to assemble but do not reinstall yet. I didn't change any of the rings etc inside the trans as my trans only has 2500 miles and I wasn't about to disassemble the whole trans to do it.
6. There is one other mod to the 4th piston assembly which is totally separate from the VB but the VB needs to be out to do it. It is located here.
It looks like this removed.
Just follow the instructions to replace springs etc. When you reinstall just push on the cover to see if it will seat, if not you will have to back off the band adjustment on the other side of the trans until its seats all the way, don't force it.
Then follow the instructions for adjusting the band and ensure the band will slide side to side easily as indicated.
7. Now reinstall the modified VB and reinstall pan with new gasket supplied. Make sure to clean the pan and magnets before installing.
8. Now I just have to wait until spring to reinstall the engine and trans before I can try it out.
Last edited by Jime; 12-15-2009 at 08:41 AM.
12-15-2009, 08:54 AM
#14
Very nice Jime! Thank you for the pictures. It's too bad you have to wait so long to try it all out.
Do you know what the 4th piston is for? I had my VB recalibrated by Maximum Tuning several years ago and that's it. I wonder what that 4th piston modification will do that a normal VB recal won't.
Do you know what the 4th piston is for? I had my VB recalibrated by Maximum Tuning several years ago and that's it. I wonder what that 4th piston modification will do that a normal VB recal won't.
12-15-2009, 09:01 AM
#15
Very nice Jime! Thank you for the pictures. It's too bad you have to wait so long to try it all out.
Do you know what the 4th piston is for? I had my VB recalibrated by Maximum Tuning several years ago and that's it. I wonder what that 4th piston modification will do that a normal VB recal won't.
Do you know what the 4th piston is for? I had my VB recalibrated by Maximum Tuning several years ago and that's it. I wonder what that 4th piston modification will do that a normal VB recal won't.
12-15-2009, 09:27 AM
#16
So you have tried to keep the TC locked from 1st gear through all the shifts? What did it do when you sprayed?
I haven't played around too much with my TC lockup while at WOT. I did several dyno pulls with and without it locked. I did lay down more power to the ground, but I don't think the results were too accurate. It's been a while since I did those dyno runs, so I can't remember. The true test is your car's acceleration., which I did measure. I remember not being able to see a difference when accelerating from 20-80mph in 2nd gear. The acceleration numbers I datalogged were the same. I never tried to locked it up at the track though.
12-15-2009, 09:43 AM
#17
Awesome write up Jim, thanx alot, this is useful information for me in the coming weeks when ill install mine.
Aaron, I did alot of reading regarding dyno and TC lockup, and it is tough to get accurate reading from the TC unlocked, reason being is that when unlocked its no longer close to 1:1, it is a different gearing, so the Dyno operator would have to reprogram the system to take into account the "fluid coupling differences"(Taken from link below).
As for my experience, when ever I did 1/4 runs I always gained a couple of tenths by locking it, I would lock it as soon as 2nd gear came in. This was with nitrous, with turbo I just leave as it but if i were to lock it manually I would do it at the top of 2nd since thats where im getting full boost otherwise if i lock to early rev's are going to take longer and boost will take longer to build.
In MY experience, yes its beneficial to lock it up, however it becomes an issue when we're making significant power, Jim's would slip with the nitrous, and I believe mine is starting to give when I do a high speed runs.
http://forums.land-and-sea.com/showp...03&postcount=1
Yeah, a stronger 3-4 shift wouldn't be a bad thing to have just in case. But I doubt I'll ever need or want to use 4th gear for the 1/4 mile.
So you have tried to keep the TC locked from 1st gear through all the shifts? What did it do when you sprayed?
I haven't played around too much with my TC lockup while at WOT. I did several dyno pulls with and without it locked. I did lay down more power to the ground, but I don't think the results were too accurate. It's been a while since I did those dyno runs, so I can't remember. The true test is your car's acceleration., which I did measure. I remember not being able to see a difference when accelerating from 20-80mph in 2nd gear. The acceleration numbers I datalogged were the same. I never tried to locked it up at the track though.
So you have tried to keep the TC locked from 1st gear through all the shifts? What did it do when you sprayed?
I haven't played around too much with my TC lockup while at WOT. I did several dyno pulls with and without it locked. I did lay down more power to the ground, but I don't think the results were too accurate. It's been a while since I did those dyno runs, so I can't remember. The true test is your car's acceleration., which I did measure. I remember not being able to see a difference when accelerating from 20-80mph in 2nd gear. The acceleration numbers I datalogged were the same. I never tried to locked it up at the track though.
As for my experience, when ever I did 1/4 runs I always gained a couple of tenths by locking it, I would lock it as soon as 2nd gear came in. This was with nitrous, with turbo I just leave as it but if i were to lock it manually I would do it at the top of 2nd since thats where im getting full boost otherwise if i lock to early rev's are going to take longer and boost will take longer to build.
In MY experience, yes its beneficial to lock it up, however it becomes an issue when we're making significant power, Jim's would slip with the nitrous, and I believe mine is starting to give when I do a high speed runs.
http://forums.land-and-sea.com/showp...03&postcount=1
12-15-2009, 09:52 AM
#18
Yeah, a stronger 3-4 shift wouldn't be a bad thing to have just in case. But I doubt I'll ever need or want to use 4th gear for the 1/4 mile.
So you have tried to keep the TC locked from 1st gear through all the shifts? What did it do when you sprayed?
I haven't played around too much with my TC lockup while at WOT. I did several dyno pulls with and without it locked. I did lay down more power to the ground, but I don't think the results were too accurate. It's been a while since I did those dyno runs, so I can't remember. The true test is your car's acceleration., which I did measure. I remember not being able to see a difference when accelerating from 20-80mph in 2nd gear. The acceleration numbers I datalogged were the same. I never tried to locked it up at the track though.
So you have tried to keep the TC locked from 1st gear through all the shifts? What did it do when you sprayed?
I haven't played around too much with my TC lockup while at WOT. I did several dyno pulls with and without it locked. I did lay down more power to the ground, but I don't think the results were too accurate. It's been a while since I did those dyno runs, so I can't remember. The true test is your car's acceleration., which I did measure. I remember not being able to see a difference when accelerating from 20-80mph in 2nd gear. The acceleration numbers I datalogged were the same. I never tried to locked it up at the track though.
I may be nice if you run out of 3rd to give you some more breathing room so you don't have to do the 3-4 but I believe I'm good to about 130 mph in 3rd so that shouldn't happen anytime soon.
My lockup was pretty much gone in my old trans it would't even stall anymore in 1st gear at idle, just reduced the rpm a bit, whereas before it would stall just like a manual in 1st with the clutch out. However it did still lockup on the highway.
12-15-2009, 09:56 AM
#19
The TC locked works ok N/A but just slips with spray so I quit using it, don't want to lose my lockup for highway use.
I may be nice if you run out of 3rd to give you some more breathing room so you don't have to do the 3-4 but I believe I'm good to about 130 mph in 3rd so that shouldn't happen anytime soon.
My lockup was pretty much gone in my old trans it would't even stall anymore in 1st gear at idle, just reduced the rpm a bit, whereas before it would stall just like a manual in 1st with the clutch out. However it did still lockup on the highway.
I may be nice if you run out of 3rd to give you some more breathing room so you don't have to do the 3-4 but I believe I'm good to about 130 mph in 3rd so that shouldn't happen anytime soon.
My lockup was pretty much gone in my old trans it would't even stall anymore in 1st gear at idle, just reduced the rpm a bit, whereas before it would stall just like a manual in 1st with the clutch out. However it did still lockup on the highway.
12-15-2009, 10:28 AM
#20
Awesome write up Jim, thanx alot, this is useful information for me in the coming weeks when ill install mine.
Aaron, I did alot of reading regarding dyno and TC lockup, and it is tough to get accurate reading from the TC unlocked, reason being is that when unlocked its no longer close to 1:1, it is a different gearing, so the Dyno operator would have to reprogram the system to take into account the "fluid coupling differences"(Taken from link below).
As for my experience, when ever I did 1/4 runs I always gained a couple of tenths by locking it, I would lock it as soon as 2nd gear came in. This was with nitrous, with turbo I just leave as it but if i were to lock it manually I would do it at the top of 2nd since thats where im getting full boost otherwise if i lock to early rev's are going to take longer and boost will take longer to build.
In MY experience, yes its beneficial to lock it up, however it becomes an issue when we're making significant power, Jim's would slip with the nitrous, and I believe mine is starting to give when I do a high speed runs.
http://forums.land-and-sea.com/showp...03&postcount=1
Aaron, I did alot of reading regarding dyno and TC lockup, and it is tough to get accurate reading from the TC unlocked, reason being is that when unlocked its no longer close to 1:1, it is a different gearing, so the Dyno operator would have to reprogram the system to take into account the "fluid coupling differences"(Taken from link below).
As for my experience, when ever I did 1/4 runs I always gained a couple of tenths by locking it, I would lock it as soon as 2nd gear came in. This was with nitrous, with turbo I just leave as it but if i were to lock it manually I would do it at the top of 2nd since thats where im getting full boost otherwise if i lock to early rev's are going to take longer and boost will take longer to build.
In MY experience, yes its beneficial to lock it up, however it becomes an issue when we're making significant power, Jim's would slip with the nitrous, and I believe mine is starting to give when I do a high speed runs.
http://forums.land-and-sea.com/showp...03&postcount=1
The TC locked works ok N/A but just slips with spray so I quit using it, don't want to lose my lockup for highway use.
I may be nice if you run out of 3rd to give you some more breathing room so you don't have to do the 3-4 but I believe I'm good to about 130 mph in 3rd so that shouldn't happen anytime soon.
My lockup was pretty much gone in my old trans it would't even stall anymore in 1st gear at idle, just reduced the rpm a bit, whereas before it would stall just like a manual in 1st with the clutch out. However it did still lockup on the highway.
I may be nice if you run out of 3rd to give you some more breathing room so you don't have to do the 3-4 but I believe I'm good to about 130 mph in 3rd so that shouldn't happen anytime soon.
My lockup was pretty much gone in my old trans it would't even stall anymore in 1st gear at idle, just reduced the rpm a bit, whereas before it would stall just like a manual in 1st with the clutch out. However it did still lockup on the highway.
I have forgot to disengage the TC lockup when decelerating to a stop. At around 15mph, the car shakes and I quickly remember to disengage it.
With a 7200 rev limiter and 22" slicks, my 3rd gear should easily stretch out for what I will need even with nitrous. But it is nice to be able to flip the switch to lower the revs for a longer 3rd gear if needed. Once I get a good chassis dyno done, I will be able to see what my power band looks like in 3rd gear. And I may decide to lock up the TC at the point where power starts to drop off, so that I stay in the peak power band longer during the 1/4 mile.
12-16-2009, 07:09 AM
#21
One thing I forgot to mention, there is an option for the 1-2 shift accumulator. This is the piston for the 1-2 shift and the instuctions say "You're gonna love the 1-2 shifts".
"For an extra firm 1-2 shift do not install the inner orange spring."
I'm sure you know which option I chose.
Not sure what this will be like with the drop resistor removed but I thought I would install this kit anyway since I was swapping transmissions and the extra work is minimal.
"For an extra firm 1-2 shift do not install the inner orange spring."
I'm sure you know which option I chose.
Not sure what this will be like with the drop resistor removed but I thought I would install this kit anyway since I was swapping transmissions and the extra work is minimal.
12-17-2009, 05:06 PM
#23
I got a question. I have the Stage II VB done by Maximum tuning. Before my car would shift firm 1-2 less for 2-3. Last week I had to take car in to shop cause it developed a leak tranny oil pump. Before taking it in I noticed I lost the firm 1-2 shift. since I got the car back its still gone. I didnt have a tranny cooler installed but since spending more money to fix this one I am getting one. The question is could I get this kit with already having the VB modded.
12-17-2009, 05:11 PM
#24
I got a question. I have the Stage II VB done by Maximum tuning. Before my car would shift firm 1-2 less for 2-3. Last week I had to take car in to shop cause it developed a leak tranny oil pump. Before taking it in I noticed I lost the firm 1-2 shift. since I got the car back its still gone. I didnt have a tranny cooler installed but since spending more money to fix this one I am getting one. The question is could I get this kit with already having the VB modded.
12-17-2009, 05:25 PM
#26
Got car back from shop yesterday so fluid level should be fine. I am waiting for maximum tuning to get back to me. If they dont get back to me I am going to the shop to have them look at the VB.
12-18-2009, 04:26 PM
#29
btw the shops ranged from the dealer to juffy lube
12-18-2009, 09:02 PM
#30
Since its a transmission shop I think they know what they are doing but will check in morning.
01-11-2010, 08:58 PM
#31
Question, i am not 100% how the diff works. In Jim's pic i labeld two parts, is part A fixed to part B, or that inner gear is indepedent from the big main gear?
Last edited by streetzlegend; 01-12-2010 at 08:40 AM.
01-12-2010, 08:21 AM
#32
01-12-2010, 12:24 PM
#36
04-09-2010, 11:47 AM
#38
Jim, I dont know if you have been able to test out the transgo kit yet but if you did, did your tranny temps increase compared to stock VB?
I just put on my transgo HD2 kit and my temperature increased alot. With stock VB normal driving conditions temps were about 150-165, now with the transgo they are at 180 under the same conditions. I dont get it....
UPDATE: I just spoke David from Transgo, he said it is perfectly normal. It is expected for the temperature to go up "once the pressure goes up the temperature will go up, now if it gets to 240 and up then something weird is happening, otherwise your good. at the 240s is when the fluid starts to break down"
As for my results, I have not driven enough but the short driving I did, i love how it shifts. instant, even at WOT it was instant. I still have the DR hooked up to a WOT switch. I only did one WOT run and it shifted awesome. The temps got real high though in 3rd gear. I wont go WOT again till my new cooler gets here. I really hope this cooler is as good as it sounds. its meant for 40,000 trucks lol.
I just put on my transgo HD2 kit and my temperature increased alot. With stock VB normal driving conditions temps were about 150-165, now with the transgo they are at 180 under the same conditions. I dont get it....
UPDATE: I just spoke David from Transgo, he said it is perfectly normal. It is expected for the temperature to go up "once the pressure goes up the temperature will go up, now if it gets to 240 and up then something weird is happening, otherwise your good. at the 240s is when the fluid starts to break down"
As for my results, I have not driven enough but the short driving I did, i love how it shifts. instant, even at WOT it was instant. I still have the DR hooked up to a WOT switch. I only did one WOT run and it shifted awesome. The temps got real high though in 3rd gear. I wont go WOT again till my new cooler gets here. I really hope this cooler is as good as it sounds. its meant for 40,000 trucks lol.
Last edited by streetzlegend; 04-09-2010 at 11:57 AM.
04-09-2010, 12:01 PM
#39
Jim, I dont know if you have been able to test out the transgo kit yet but if you did, did your tranny temps increase compared to stock VB?
I just put on my transgo HD2 kit and my temperature increased alot. With stock VB normal driving conditions temps were about 150-165, now with the transgo they are at 180 under the same conditions. I dont get it....
I just put on my transgo HD2 kit and my temperature increased alot. With stock VB normal driving conditions temps were about 150-165, now with the transgo they are at 180 under the same conditions. I dont get it....
Shifts sure are quick though, much different than before, even the 3-4 is crisp. The 1-2 is nuts, car just keeps spinning in 2nd like it was still in 1st, had to back off.
I will keep an eye on the temps though, thanks for the headsup.
My shifts may feel quicker as well because of my engine mounts. I redid them again with 94 durometer and now its just like they were solid. I completely removed all the rubber this time and filled 100% with the 94. Last time they still broke loose from the rubber. I had a heck of a time installing the engine because there is NO give in the mounts and it has to line up perfect. The side ones weren't too bad but the front and back were a little off and it took me about 2 hours to get the bolts in, had to use the jack to move the engine sideways a bit and that was after I loosened all the bolts to get a bit of slack. There is a bit of an increase in vibration on the wheel but at least I know its solid.
04-09-2010, 12:12 PM
#40
Just got mine back together today. Temp doesn't seem any different but its pretty cool here today approx 34 deg so temp didn't go above 120 on the highway.
Shifts sure are quick though, much different than before, even the 3-4 is crisp. The 1-2 is nuts, car just keeps spinning in 2nd like it was still in 1st, had to back off.
I will keep an eye on the temps though, thanks for the headsup.
My shifts may feel quicker as well because of my engine mounts. I redid them again with 94 durometer and now its just like they were solid. I completely removed all the rubber this time and filled 100% with the 94. Last time they still broke loose from the rubber. I had a heck of a time installing the engine because there is NO give in the mounts and it has to line up perfect. The side ones weren't too bad but the front and back were a little off and it took me about 2 hours to get the bolts in, had to use the jack to move the engine sideways a bit and that was after I loosened all the bolts to get a bit of slack. There is a bit of an increase in vibration on the wheel but at least I know its solid.
Shifts sure are quick though, much different than before, even the 3-4 is crisp. The 1-2 is nuts, car just keeps spinning in 2nd like it was still in 1st, had to back off.
I will keep an eye on the temps though, thanks for the headsup.
My shifts may feel quicker as well because of my engine mounts. I redid them again with 94 durometer and now its just like they were solid. I completely removed all the rubber this time and filled 100% with the 94. Last time they still broke loose from the rubber. I had a heck of a time installing the engine because there is NO give in the mounts and it has to line up perfect. The side ones weren't too bad but the front and back were a little off and it took me about 2 hours to get the bolts in, had to use the jack to move the engine sideways a bit and that was after I loosened all the bolts to get a bit of slack. There is a bit of an increase in vibration on the wheel but at least I know its solid.
Weather here is at 85F degree's, but I am really bugged out on the temps being so high, specially at WOT, went to 200s. On my car I already had the polyurethane mounts in there from before yet I still noticed the difference in shift significantly.
Praying that the new cooler will make a huge difference, its more than double the overall size of my current 12"x8", new one is 22"x8" but 1" thicker! Plate style