All MotorAll Motor Advanced Performance. Talk about Engine Swaps, Internal Engine work. Not your basic Y pipe and Intake Information.
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Just finished paying off my 6th gen and now want to tear down the motor and build it up stronger and with higher performance possibilities. So my questions are what do I need to achieve this? I am also looking to add at least a 150 shot of Nitrous with possibly 2 stage. Don't really know yet. Just want to make sure the engine can withstand a beating. I really want to keep this project on a somewhat small budget. I was thinking pistons, rings, valves, springs, cams, ARP bolts, gaskets, and intake spacer kit. I am just not sure what kind of pistons or springs for the setup I should get. Do I need higher compression spings and pistons? Also what type of cams should I get to accomidate the pistons? This will be my first rebuild so any tips that can help are greatly appreciated. I have done many things on my own just not a complete rebuild, and I need to start somewhere. Also since I will have everything apart, might as well change out some fuel components. Anything you guys recommend fuel setup wise to prepare for Nitrous? Sparkplug recommendation? Thanx in advance
my budget is to stay under $2500, that does not include the Nitrous setup. If I don't get cams now that's ok. I can allways get them later. They are the most expensive part I listed ranging between 1000-2000. I can get prices by searching around. I really just need the shopping list that doesn't include crazy builds like boring and super rebuild kits. I want to be smart about it.
The smartest thing you can do is not to do it at all if you're not planning on going all the way, in my opinion. It truly is a big money pit, but that's just my suggestion.
Your price range for a good build should be researched some more. I suggest searching and reading for a long while and try to decide what your exact goals should be and what it will take to get there. There's alot of generalized questions like these that ask what people should do to get more power. What's not noticed is all the variables that go along with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OP
I was thinking pistons, rings, valves, springs, cams, ARP bolts, gaskets, and intake spacer kit.
You're already way over budget with just this list and what is involved to get them put in.
The smartest thing you can do is not to do it at all if you're not planning on going all the way, in my opinion. It truly is a big money pit, but that's just my suggestion.
Your price range for a good build should be researched some more. I suggest searching and reading for a long while and try to decide what your exact goals should be and what it will take to get there. There's alot of generalized questions like these that ask what people should do to get more power. What's not noticed is all the variables that go along with it.
You're already way over budget with just this list and what is involved to get them put in.
? not sure what you are saying. I am going to be doing the work. Is what I am asking really difficult to understand. I have done quite a bit of research on this. The parts are out there but the setup I want is complicated concidering I want to spray. I want to make sure if I get higher compression pistons and stronger springs that spraying will be ok. If I do get higher compression pistons then what type of cams should I be looking for. I mean timing is important expecially if I want to spray. I don't want to blow my motor first spray around. Most of the guys I hang with have civics and mustangs and don't know crap about nissans. I know most of you guys in here are swapping and building that's why I am asking my questions here. Could go to the Z forums but I figured I would start with where I know best.
? not sure what you are saying. I am going to be doing the work. Is what I am asking really difficult to understand. I have done quite a bit of research on this. The parts are out there but the setup I want is complicated concidering I want to spray. I want to make sure if I get higher compression pistons and stronger springs that spraying will be ok. If I do get higher compression pistons then what type of cams should I be looking for. I mean timing is important expecially if I want to spray. I don't want to blow my motor first spray around. Most of the guys I hang with have civics and mustangs and don't know crap about nissans. I know most of you guys in here are swapping and building that's why I am asking my questions here. Could go to the Z forums but I figured I would start with where I know best.
Sounds like me a year ago... I bought a 60K 2002 Maxima 3.5 for $500, pulled the heads, cleaned up the heads and installed 2005 350Z head gaskets and bolts, pulled the oil pans and installed ARP rod bolts, installed $500 eBay cams, and put it back together with the 3.0 timing gear and oil pans and covers for my '99.
Later I installed a SSIM, Pathy TB, customized OBX headers, and two stages of nitrous. Seems to have worked for me - 430WHP and still running strong. A totally-built engine is sitting in the garage, waiting for me to figure out the transmission problems.
Hope this helps... you've got most of the good stuff already - rod bolts are a known problem. Headers are a Good Idea for performance. If you do headers and a 75-shot, with slicks you can be in the 12s. Gotta love being around sea level, right? Seems like there are three strips in Hawaii, on different islands... yup, on Maui, Hilo, and Kauai. The one on Oahu is closed now.
yeah i unfortunately am on oahu. i will be back in washington hopefully summer 2011. i want to be ready to track when i get there. i will take you idea of headers during install into concideration.
Totally unneccessary to rebuild the motor for what you plan. VQ35 can handle a 150shot of nitrous just fine without doing any work to the motor - just a good nitrous kit with proper monitoring and tuning equipment is all that's needed.
__________________ 95 SE - Stock 3.0L w/ USIM - T61/P-trim @ 14.5psi - 93 octane
11.76 @ 121 - 1.82 60' - ET Street DOTs
12.15 @ 123 - 1.95 60' - Nitto DR 3.5L swap with I/Y/E
12.92 @ 104 - 1.69 60' - M&H Slicks
13.60 @ 103 - 2.15 60' - Street tires
you really cant just put in new pistons without a little boring of .010 or .020, its not smart. From that list that you put up, I would spend my 2500 on cams, springs, spacers, headers and something good to tune with. You can get UTEC's that plug and play for your car for $500 shipped
I agree, it seems that the 3.5's are nitrous friendly. But one KEY factor is the tune!. Timing has to be right, AFR has to be right, and zero knock. A properly tuned VQ35 can handle some pretty damn good power.
If it were me, and it was my 2500 in your situation. I would:
- Invest that money mostly in electronics. J&S Safeguard, UTEC or something good that can control timing and AFR.
- Then get a good set of headers and Y-Pipe, an electric cutout at the ypipe, and keep stock catback.
- Leave heads, and whole motor stock
- Fuel setup, walbro255, No real need in injectors or anything since I would go with a Wet nitrous kit (and I seriously recommend it, dry shouldn't be an option).
- and if I you really wanna do something to the motor, the least I would do is put arp rod bolts and thats it.
How fast do you want to go? Figure that out and then you'll know what you need to do to the motor. You might not need to do anything to it or you might need 2 of everything. Also, nobody has mentioned rods yet which is kind of surprising. If I were putting in forged pistons I'd get some forged rods as well. That will keep you from tearing the motor apart later on if you decide you want even more power.
Thanx for all the replies, seems like alot more to concider. This is why I ask people who know best. Also this wasn't mentioned before, but I need to replace the rings because they are weak for this engine. I was burning about 2 quarts of oil every 3k when I was using 5w30 oil. I recently switched to 15w50 which is a big difference, but seems to be doing the trick. I have gone 2k miles since my last oil change and not a drop lower than I started. Also seems to run quieter and smoother. I live in Hawaii so the temp is quite a bit hotter than most places and 10w40 was working but still used about 1qt in 3k miles. I have been concidering a stillen oil cooler and a deeper pan as well. The Bolts, the gaskets, and rings are the weakest components in the engine. that is why they are deffinitly being replaced with something stronger. As far as the pistons I might just keep the stock ones and have them cleaned up and get different rods. If I spray now I am surely doomed. I will wait until the engine is rebuilt and broken in before I play with spray. I do plan to put a two stage 150 shot wet kit in with the proper monitoring and safety features. That is either summer or next winter plans though. the motor is before spring. As for the Transmission I plan on Level 10'ing the valvebody and getting a higher stall torque converter. I will also be getting a boost valve added to the valvebody. I will steer away from nissan matic-k aboom, and go with a full synthetic fluid. Plus I will be adding a tranny cooler, and no I do not have a heatsink type cooler. I checked. Thanx again guys and please keep the ideas coming and hopefully what I typed gives you a better understanding of where I am and what I plan to do. Again the tranny and Nitrous kit are not part of this build. As well as the e-manage system. I am undecided on which one I want. I will have a piggy back before I do this build of course. Utec is on the top of my list.
yeah i unfortunately am on oahu. i will be back in washington hopefully summer 2011. i want to be ready to track when i get there. i will take you idea of headers during install into concideration.
SHIFT_4.GO
Jime is running 200(+?), so 150 in 2 stages is childs play
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