All MotorAll Motor Advanced Performance. Talk about Engine Swaps, Internal Engine work. Not your basic Y pipe and Intake Information.
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I know we've been over this a million times, but please bear with me.
I've got a full DEK motor in my 96 and I have the PF TB in there as well. Well for some reason after 4 years of passing emissions just fine my car is throwing an IACV code, and since I still have cold start problems even after shortening the hose going to the stock 4th gen IACV, I got a DEK IACV.
I understand how to wire the DEK IACV, but I'm not sure how it goes together with the PF TB. I know on the PF TB the IACV bolts to the bottom of the TB, and I'm wondering if the DEK one will work or if I need to try the IACV off the PF as its wired similarly to the DEK one.
Does anyone have any ideas, and/or pics of this working?
Thank you guys!
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-----5-speed DE-K with 205 whp and 199 wtq SAE corrected-----
-------Shortened Koni Yellows/Eibachs, Cobra/Q45/Hawk/SS-------
--SFC S.2, LTB S.2, RSB, FSTB, TB's (removed!), all ES bushings--
-------------Enkei RPM2/Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus-------------
I tried today to get a pathy one to work by flipping the plug etc, couldn't get it, allthough there is a slight chance I have a seperate problem, I doubt it, but I didn't have luck the past two times I tried using a de-k etc iacv, am I doing something wrong?
Anyways, to sorta answer your question, I think the answer is no go on putting a de-k iacv onto the pathy tb. I know for sure you can't switch the actual iacv because the de-k vs pathy plungers are just ever so slightly different lengths that it won't work. However, you may be able to bolt up the 5th gen iacv housing to the pathy tb, that I don't know, but I do know the plunger lengths are different.
I think the 5th gen iacv housing does bolt to the pftb, it appears Vadim has used the de-k iacv on a pftb.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vipervadim
i had this setup going for a while only on my PF tb, but then i took it off and plugged it up.
but beware! i've moticed the ecu will learn with time and your idle will slowly raise over time, even after you reset it (more money for gas)
the reason i took it out was:
the iacv started opening up when braking to a complete stop from high speed, it forces more air into the engine, to rev higher, instead of dropping to idle.
for a 5-speed that should be no problem, just press the clutch put it to N and brake. but for anybody automatic, that means a lot more braking power is needed to slow down because the tranny is in gear, and the engine is revving while the brakes are stopping and that can end up costing you dearly at the wrong moment. once the car is stopped the rpms fall down from 1300 to idle.
that's the main reason, because my max is auto.
For the Install you will need to extend the 6 iacv wires with the big connector to plug it into the 00 iacv hole(4 inches should be good allowing some slack, tighten the 2 bolts evenly so it evenly covers the hole) you can unscrew the circular sensors from the iacv(catch the pin inside) zip tie them plugged in. and remove the empty 4th gen iacv.
i suggest you adjust the throttle stopper screw before you plug in the iacv, otherwise you might have a hard time setting the idle right. for an automatic this is the worst part because the rpms fall when the tranny is in gear (i.e. can start to choke at a red light, but idles fine in neutral)
good luck..
let me know how it works out for you..
P.S. Make sure you didn't mix up the open air and the vacuum hoses after removing the metal spider lines, those can be a bit confusing.
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To me it looks like it would be easier to just get the PF IACV
That might be easier but you could save a little money by switching it over. Plus it may be hard to find used.
Also on a side note I'm using the DEK IACV on my car and its working correctly as of right now. We're also running the PF IACV on the 3.5 with no issues. On both we just cut down the plug and plugged it in. I think I'll do startup vids of both cars soon showing the idle.
That might be easier but you could save a little money by switching it over. Plus it may be hard to find used.
Also on a side note I'm using the DEK IACV on my car and its working correctly as of right now. We're also running the PF IACV on the 3.5 with no issues. On both we just cut down the plug and plugged it in. I think I'll do startup vids of both cars soon showing the idle.
When you say you have the DEK IACV on your car, you mean your 3.0 with the DEK manifold? Does that have a PF TB?
I called the dealer and a new PF IACV is like $260, which is quite a bit more than the $30 I paid for the DEK IACV.....so I guess I'm gonna try the DEK IACV on the PF TB and see what happens
When you say you have the DEK IACV on your car, you mean your 3.0 with the DEK manifold? Does that have a PF TB?
I called the dealer and a new PF IACV is like $260, which is quite a bit more than the $30 I paid for the DEK IACV.....so I guess I'm gonna try the DEK IACV on the PF TB and see what happens
I have the DEK manifold with the DEK throttlebody. I dont know if you have the IACV off already but it was a PITA trying to get it off.
Do you have a picture of how your IACV is hooked up? Is it a remote set up or is it bolted to the manifold? I know I do not have the same set up as you but in both of my vi swaps I was having cold start issues until I put a bigger hose/bigger fitting on the IACV. I am pretty sure this fixed AJ problems too until he switched to the 5th gen IACV. I know I am not comparing apples to apples but it may be something worth checking.
Do you have a picture of how your IACV is hooked up? Is it a remote set up or is it bolted to the manifold? I know I do not have the same set up as you but in both of my vi swaps I was having cold start issues until I put a bigger hose/bigger fitting on the IACV. I am pretty sure this fixed AJ problems too until he switched to the 5th gen IACV. I know I am not comparing apples to apples but it may be something worth checking.
I'll post up pics in a few days when I get everything straightened out. As of now my cold start problem has been fixed. I bit the bullet and bought a new PF IACV since I couldn't find one at any of the 4 Crazy Rays in the area. It was like $250, but once we got the wiring figured out it bolted right up to the PF TB and it starts perfectly in cold weather.
I originally had the 1996 IACV just hanging off a plate on the firewall, but the hoses running to it were too long which meant it couldn't adjust quickly enough. I shortened the length of the hoses but that didn't solve the problem. In this whole process we learned that the 96 IACV has 4 plungers; one main one for idle, and then one for AC and one for PS. The PF TB only has one plunger, which is for idle. Apparently on the PF the AC and PS adjustments are done by the computer, so we're thinking about hooking up the two accessory plungers from the 96 IACV in addition to the PF IACV just to make sure everything is perfect, but I'm gonna see how the car runs and if any codes comes back.
Also of note, when my DEK (full swap) was done we reused parts of the 96 EGR system, which made it impossible to use a DEk TB and IACV as the EGR was in the way, so my only option was to get the PF IACV to work.
Pics and writeup coming later.......hopefully this saga has come to an end!
EDIT: And by the way, the DEK IACV DOES NOT bolt up to the PF TB. The plungers line up roughly, but the bolt holes are way off. The only way you could even get them to hook up is with a bunch of epoxy, and that is not a long-term solution to the problem. So if you have a PF TB, the only IACV that will bolt to it is the PF unit. But it solves the cold start problem! Not to mention that the DEK IACV is also a single plunger unit like the PF unit, so you might also need to use the other two plungers from the 4th gen to make everything work perfectly.
Last edited by 95maxrider; 10-28-2009 at 11:31 AM.
Nope, I just took the black sensor that's secured with 2 bolts (I guess you call it the plunger) on the DEK IACV body, and put it into the PF IACV body on my PF TB. Works perfectly.
Before I did that, I've also tried just using the black sensor on the PF IACV attached to the PF TB, but used a dremel to cut the plug shield to expose just the prongs, and plugged my harness onto that. The pins are the exact same and it worked, but I replaced it with a Maxima IACV sensor (As metioned above) to reassure myself the used sensor won't fry me new ecu up again.
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'01 Merlot SE-SC
Vortech V2 11psi w/ PFTB, Exhaust headers + Megan OE-RS Catback, Apexi Neo, CF Hood, SE-R wheels slammed on D2's, and the list goes on..
'99 Silver SE-L
AE Headlights, AE Wheels, Smoked corner lights, Mini Luda lip, and everything else bone stock..
Nope, I just took the black sensor that's secured with 2 bolts (I guess you call it the plunger) on the DEK IACV body, and put it into the PF IACV body on my PF TB. Works perfectly.
Before I did that, I've also tried just using the black sensor on the PF IACV attached to the PF TB, but used a dremel to cut the plug shield to expose just the prongs, and plugged my harness onto that. The pins are the exact same and it worked, but I replaced it with a Maxima IACV sensor (As metioned above) to reassure myself the used sensor won't fry me new ecu up again.
I'm confused, which setup fried your ECU? And if you had a PF IACV, why didn't you just use that?
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-----5-speed DE-K with 205 whp and 199 wtq SAE corrected-----
-------Shortened Koni Yellows/Eibachs, Cobra/Q45/Hawk/SS-------
--SFC S.2, LTB S.2, RSB, FSTB, TB's (removed!), all ES bushings--
-------------Enkei RPM2/Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus-------------