All MotorAll Motor Advanced Performance. Talk about Engine Swaps, Internal Engine work. Not your basic Y pipe and Intake Information.
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My motor recently died on me probably do to reving up to 7.5k a couple of times.
I am getting a newer motor with about 123,000km's on it and while its not installed in the car was thinking of upgrading some components to make it ready for 7k+.
Something that I think need to be puchased are:
Rev up oil pump
Valve Spings
Now I don't know what brand to get for a rev up oil pump or valve springs.
Any help would be appreciated. If its important to know i'll prolly turbo charge this motor in the near future.
We havent pulled out the motor to see exactly what went but we found some metal shavings in the oil when we drained some out. We think we either spun a bearing or something else related to the crank.
Im thinking I weakened the lower end when I was trying to overcome the 6.5k rev limit hump with the EU and shifting at 7.5k. Then one morning the car started to knock ever so badly.
Do the valve springs need any work done to them before installing them in the VQ30DE? Actually well all these parts be a bolt on or is there work needing to be done to make it fit?
I'm just trying to get as much information as possible before I go to the dealership.
You can skip the valve seats. Those are the rings that the valves actually make contact with on the head.
Without knowing how exactly the motor failed we can't make solid suggestions. Where there any pre-existing oil delivery issues beforehand? People have been revving stock 3.0's to 7200'ish RPM for years. What EXACTLY was your rev cut set to?
As you can probably tell I'm not a huge fan of throwing parts at a car and hoping for the best.
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Tuning a car isn't a crime, but spelling it "tunning" ought to be. - ....
I had one incident before. It was winter time...wait do I have to go further? LOL. I lost control of the car and my winter tires were as crappy as you can get. Anywho I hit a speed limit sign which broke in half went under my car and ripped my oil filter off. It also made a hole through my car. The pole stuck right through where the people in the back put there feet (in between the seats). Thank god no one was sitting back there!
The oil light came on and thats when the car was shut of by me. It was then pulled out by my friend and towed. My brother told me that there was no oil in the car when he got it. Anyways he put on a filter, fixed up the hole, and put new oil. The car was fine for 6-8 months until this happened.
My cut off on the EU was 7.4k but I did notice that on the actual cluster it would cut out near 7.5-7.6k.
Thats my story.
I also have a video of the pole which i'll post up soon.
Know... is there any modifications I have to make to have the valve springs fit in right? On dandymax's mod page he has it double shimmed.
I had one incident before. It was winter time...wait do I have to go further? LOL. I lost control of the car and my winter tires were as crappy as you can get. Anywho I hit a speed limit sign which broke in half went under my car and ripped my oil filter off. It also made a hole through my car. The pole stuck right through where the people in the back put there feet (in between the seats). Thank god no one was sitting back there!
The oil light came on and thats when the car was shut of by me. It was then pulled out by my friend and towed. My brother told me that there was no oil in the car when he got it. Anyways he put on a filter, fixed up the hole, and put new oil. The car was fine for 6-8 months until this happened.
So it did run for a little bit with no oil?
Quote:
My cut off on the EU was 7.4k but I did notice that on the actual cluster it would cut out near 7.5-7.6k.
So 7400 is where you zero'd out all the cells? Just curious.
Quote:
Know... is there any modifications I have to make to have the valve springs fit in right? On dandymax's mod page he has it double shimmed.
The valve springs drop right in. The extra valve spring seat is placed on top of the existing spring seat below the spring.
And the part # you listed is indeed the valve spring seat part #. It just said "Valve-Seat" which is a completely different part than a valve spring seat so it confused me initially.
In any case the Revup oil pump should provide a measure of protection but the motor still won't be reliable above 7500 RPM (as DandyMax found out). At that point you need to start looking into balancing the bottom end and/or the clutch/flywheel assembly.
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Tuning a car isn't a crime, but spelling it "tunning" ought to be. - ....
Would you say these are better then the HR? Cause they are cheaper then the stock vq35 ones form the dealership. Though ill still use the oem retainers and valve spring seat.
Better is subjective. Stiffer? Yes. Way overkill. Affirmative. You should just stick the HR springs in and call it a day, honestly. "Double shimming" isn't even necessary for your application. You can just drop the springs in and go; direct swap. You'll blow your oil pump way before your valves will float with stock cams/HR springs in there.
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Tuning a car isn't a crime, but spelling it "tunning" ought to be. - ....
I've gone up to 7400 on numerous ocassions with that notorious 6.5k hump on Dan's old motor and I have no knocking issues what so ever. Question is how long did you stay at that RPM when you get up there?
But that 6.5 hump is annoying. Kills the flow of power. I'm still trying to trouble shoot it. Hopefully end of the month once other mods are done and I dyno tune, I'll be able to resolve that annoying issue. Glad I'm not the only one
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2000 Maxima SE| Tein S-Techs/Illumina struts | Stillen Front lip | Enkei 18" RSV's | Blacked out headlights | Brembo cross-drilled rotors | Cammed/mildly ported DEK W/VQ35HR springs/retainers| Cattman Headers | Greddy EU | Innovate WBO2| VIS CF Hood|Budget B Pipe |WAI | Maxxtunning VB | Hayden Tranny Cooler
To be installed | NWP DE-K manifold spacers | Greddy Evo 2 catback | Cattman Fastcat | Remove 00VI powervalve | 3" Custom MAF
Better is subjective. Stiffer? Yes. Way overkill. Affirmative. You should just stick the HR springs in and call it a day, honestly. "Double shimming" isn't even necessary for your application. You can just drop the springs in and go; direct swap. You'll blow your oil pump way before your valves will float with stock cams/HR springs in there.
Id rather buy the stiffer ones for 1 reason..and that is id be getting them for about $40 cheaper then the dealership >_<.
I guess ill just grab the ones I linked as they will do the job for cheaper.
Ok while im on the role with stupid questions, I need 24 valve spings, im assuming 12 retainers and 24 valve spring seats?
Also with the oil pump I found 15010-a34001 which is an oem pump. Is this what I want or is it the rev up oil pump what I really need?
When I put the product numbers in that site it gave me a list of options for valve springs, retainers etc. I just picked the catalog oem version which was the last one on the list. Im assuming that these parts are used in other vehicals as they have the same product number but the vehicals listed where different in motor size etc..
Thank you so much for the help, as you can tell im not very mechanical inclines (brother is my mechanic).
In my honest opinion there will be no benefit going with a "double shimmed" setup or going with the HR/Revup retainers (which are actually a hair heavier than stock retainers). HR springs alone will take care of ANY fear of valve float. Save your money. Now if you're throwing in cams while you're in there that's a different story.
A regular VQ35 oil pump will be more than enough but I'll suggest going with the revup pump because it is actually cheaper and has a stronger inner gear. The correct number for the pump is 15010-AC700.
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Tuning a car isn't a crime, but spelling it "tunning" ought to be. - ....
|| KV3 || 5MT || VLSD
????
Guess it was just superceded. It happens. But as long as you order that part number you're golden.
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