modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Well, I am going to go for it. This thread is for pics and updates on my swap as well as if I run into any questions, similar to my transmission rebuild thread.

I figure some might be interested in seeing step by step pics.

To begin it, I'll show some pics of what I just snagged 15 minutes ago:






From the looks of it, the car appears to be a Cali spec because it has the swirl valves in the LIM. It was off a totaled 5th gen (of course, what else would it be off of) with 60,000 miles on the clock.

I managed to grab:

UIM
LIM
Fuel Rail
all 6 injectors
Throttle body
IACV
All the various brackets attached to the UIM


I will probably save some money and grind down the rear coils and valve cover so I don't need to buy 5th gen coils.

So far it needs the TPS which was pulled off the TB as well as an IACV component which was also pulled off.


Tomorrow or the day after I will re-separate it all, clean it up, and get some detailed pics.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

IIRC the tps off the 4th gen will work with the 5th gen tb

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Locknuts, thanks for the info! I was doing some searching and found the same info. That is good news, it will save me from having to hunt down a TPS.


I found the 5th gen rear valve cover, I can get it for 15 dollars, however I haven't found any coils yet. I am thinking I will just keep my valvecover, relocate my PCV valve and grind down the coil packs/valve cover instead of having to spend more money for the 5th gen cover/coils.

Here are some pics of the 00vi seperated.




Swirl valves. I have decided I am going to remove these. I will probably use the method of sticking a screw in the hole in the end and JBwelding the screw in. I will use a screw with a head fat enough that it will not be possible for it to get sucked into the manifold. I have heard of people who just fill the hole with JB weld and it eventually breaks down and gets sucked in.



DEK injectors. FBJC100's. Aren't these the same injectors used in the 350z/g35?


Apparently even though the flow is higher due to higher fuel pressure, the FWD VQ35 Maxima has smaller injectors than the DEK/RWD VQ35 from what I hear.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Today I just picked up these injector plugs. Some from the Maxima the VI came from, some from a 2002.


Also I decided, I don't think I am going to use the EGR system. Also from the 5th gen donor car I just got this EGR block off plate:




Also, here is a pic of the TB and IACV assembly. Obviously lacking the IACV and TPS.




It now looks like all I will need is:

IACV
Apexi VAFC-II
A bunch of vacuum hose
Some fittings
Some JB Weld
and a **** ton of carb cleaner to clean this all up.

BTW, where the back of the manifold mounts to the back of the engine, it will mount to the brackets that are already there right? Or do I have to pull those from the DEK as well? And nothing I have searched about the 00vi has mentioned the throttle cables so I assume I keep my throttle cables and cruise control assembly right?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Correct.

IIRC only the passenger's side mount lines up.

And yes, you keep all of your stock throttle cable equipment.

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

Goodluck man.

JAMAICANLOVRBOY

iTrader: (3)

didnt know DEK injectors were the same as RWd vq35

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Awesome and thanks! That is good news. Next time I am at the yard I might go ahead and pull the drivers side mount. Might as well do it correctly and not risk having the UIM crack. Especially with there being a slight bit of lateral force being exerted on the TB from my fenderwell cold air intake. I have heard of some people who skipped the rear mounts completely and ended up cracking their manifolds.

Thanks!

Yep, I believe as far as injector size goes from smallest to largest:
4th gen VQ30DE
5.5 gen VQ35DE
350z etc./ 5th gen VQ30DE-K


The 5.5 gen and the 350z run at a higher fuel pressure (I think 3.5bar vs 3.0? don't quote me on it), thus they flow more, but as far as physical injector size goes, I believe it goes in that order.

OC_Nooby

iTrader: (11)

Good luck with the project! Hope it all works out.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Kill the EGR, dont use it. Cut the tube off flush on that EGR blockoff plate while you're at it. It will get in the way.

Source some rear coils and get that rear VC for $15. Trust me on this. The grinding of the rear coil supports is all guess work. You grind too far, you gotta plug the holes. And a relocated PCV on an A32 rear VC pulls more oil than the OE setup.

I am not running the rear supports on mine, its not necessary for you either. In fact, I highly suggest you dont. You WILL want to remove the UIM often, and those can just be a major PITA.

DO NOT use the A33 TPS. They give different resistance readings than the A32, so be sure to use the one you got. It will bolt right onto the 5th gen TB, just be sure to calibrate it.

About the swirl valves, if I were you, I would take them out, then tap that hole to have threads, and find a machine screw or bolt that is long enough to go into the hole(but not into the LIM channel), while keeping the bolt head on the outside of the LIM.




Learned all [well, most] of this from personal first hand stuff. Good luck man! Hit me up if you have any questions(pm me if you want my cell number to text or something)

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Awesome man, thanks for the advice! I did not know that about a relocated PCV drawing in more oil. I guess I will keep my eye out for another 5th gen in the yard to get the coils from.

It is a bummer, there must be a lot of Maxima DIY guys in my area. Whenever I pull up to the yard there is always some type of modded max in the parking lot (once I saw a crappy i30 with vtec badges and stickers all over it ) That 5th gen I got the 00vi from had only been in that yard for a day and already the TPS, IACV, MAF, PCV valve, all the ignition coils, and all the brakes were gone from it.


But anyway, I think I like that idea of just tapping the hole on the LIM. I am curious though, do the swirl valves help the midrange any? I assume just having that stuff in there probably kills some of the top end, but I am not running an extended rev limit or anything. I've come across a lot of threads talking about how to remove them but not many on why. I figure if the benefits of removing them are mostly from 6 and a half grand and beyond, but if it kills the midrange some, I might as well leave them?


Also as far as the EGR is concerned, I hear that EGR is mainly what allows the combustion temps to be lower thus allowing for that 14.7 AFR and ignition timing advanced in the 40's under part throttle. Have you noticed any major reductions in torque/fuel mileage under part throttle conditions by removing your EGR?

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

well, on the 4th gen you cant control the lower swirl valves so they will just be blocking airflow. as far as power delivery someone else will have to take that one. but i figure if its blocking flow it cant be good.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Remove the swirl valves. I am actually running without the power rod right now, and the mid range(anything above 3K rpms) is INSANE. Anything below that is a mild loss.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Ok sounds good. Bye bye swirl valves.

One other question I had was most of the guides say to use that spot on the top of the manifold for vacuum for the brake booster line but to cut the nipple off and put a bigger one on to fit the larger brake booster line. What if I were to just keep the manifold the same but adapt the brake booster line to be smaller to fit the nipple, it should still provide enough vacuum right?

I am not quite sure how I feel about cutting fittings and whatnot off the UIM and trying to fit new ones. If I have to do this, how would I even "attach" new fittings to the UIM? I suppose it has to be more complex than just glueing them into the hole.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

for the brake booster line i used the nipple at the end of the upper on the passenger side hooked right up and i used the existing hose for it. all the rest of the vaccum nipples i just plugged up.

As for the egr i just deleted it. I havent noticed a big diffrence in it. as for emmissions though im not sure how that will go nor do i really know anything about them(i dont have any thank god!!) But if you do decide to delete the egr, keep the old temp sensor off the egr. So you wont throw a code. You dont have to have it in the egr or anything it can dangle there and it wont throw a code. just make sure to hook it back up to the harness.

OT: Do you live right in denver or in the suburbs. My brother lives in castle rock(5.5 gen)

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

I'm in the 'burbs. Not too far from castle rock. Is your brother on the .org and or into Maximas? It would be awesome to get some Denver meets going.


What did you plug the rest of the vacuum nipples with? I was thinking of maybe just attaching some hoses to them and screwing some screws into the end of the hoses.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

yeah he is on the .org(kinda of a newb but deffently a enthusiast) He got me hooked on 4th gens(when he let me drove his 4th gen when he had it). and he bought me my 3.5 so he can feel a 3.5 in a 4th gen when he comes up here in july(i dont know many brothers that would do that)But i think his sign in is locknuts27. he is on my friends list so......

What i wound up doing was(not the best way but it worked). I had those nice little red caps that you get when you buy a engine, chopped off the nipples so there was just a hole. caked on the rtv into the red cap and stuck it on there. Sometime i will take a sharpie to it so it doesnt stick out like a sore thumb. but yeah you could just take some vac hoses and plug them up.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Oh nice, I don't have any of those caps so I will probably just use hoses and plug them up.

I just pm'ed locknuts27, it would be awesome to get a colorado meet going.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Ok guys, I thought I would give an update. I still need to get a 5th gen IACV, coils, valvecover, and Apexi VAFC-II.

However, I am starting to work on getting things cleaned up, vacuum hoses figured out, how exactly I am going to block off my EGR, VIAS fix, etc.


One thing I am wondering about is this scoop/airflow director on the 5th gen throttle body:

Here is just the TB:


Here is the scoop:


Here is the TB with it attached:



Should I use this or just bolt the TB right up without it? I wonder if this has any restrictions or if it is beneficial in the way that it directs airflow inside the VI. Also I wonder if this has anything to do with air from the idle control valve and may it affect idling issues if it is removed?

Thanks!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

I'm not going to use mine.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tor-plate.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ttle-body.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...questions.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...estrictor.html

Etc: http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=473816

From what I've read and just looking at it, it almost appears to be a guide for the EGR guide tube; keeping the exhaust gases from trying to flow back through the TB.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Awesome! Thank you! I didn't know it was called the "restrictor plate." I didn't even think it would restrict anything, but now after doing reading in those threads it appears it is slightly smaller diameter than the intake manifold inlet. I guess that settles that.


From the looks of it and reading those threads, it definitely appears that it has to do with airflow around the IACV. I am betting it has to do with keeping EGR flow seperate from IACV flow as you said. One strange thing is that this car has no EGR yet had the plate. Oh well, gone it is.

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

In your post you say you still need a 5th gen IACV but its one attached to your TB in the pics.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

From what I see he's got the IACV housing, but not the IACV itself.

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

Oh ok didnt scroll up to the other pics lol.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Yep, IACV housing, but the IACV itself didn't come with it.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

Yeah i tossed that restrictor plate not to long ago. Didnt really notice much. but one would think its better w\o it

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

I've been doing some thinking, and from the looks of it, it might have to do with evening out equal amounts of airflow to both sides of the UIM so all cylinders flow more equally perhaps?

I am going to just get a fine grinding wheel on my dremel and dremel the opening on this plate into a bigger diameter so it isn't as restrictive yet the "scoop" thing is still functional.

trand71

iTrader: (3)

Nice write up so far, how far along have you gotten - i have all the parts and am waiting on the completed swap, so i can give it to my mechanic so he knows what to do. - yes i have read many threads but many different stories on this and that. i'm about 3 hrs away from you, Alamosa - ever heard of that city?

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

Man you should really consider doing it yourself. Even if you dont have the tools im sure you could get tools for cheap to complete the swap. In all honesty it isnt that hard. I couldnt imagine what a mechanic would charge for the swap.

I did it with very little knowledge at the time and i seemed to do a good job. i think the 00vi was a stepping stone to make me more mechanically inclined. IMHO it is the most rewarding thing you can do to your car is to finish a mod yourself. Plus there are so many resources on this .org. I know a handful of people that would give you any advice that you would need(myself included just ask nick)

bryan163

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know what the point of the swirl valves is?

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

From the 2001 FSM

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Oh nice, I know where Alamosa is. If it wasn't so far I would come help you out. It still shouldn't be too hard at all. And I agree, the 00vi is a great stepping stone as far as getting better at working on these things. I used to have a Taurus with a 3.0 DOHC, everything on that was very similar to the Maxima VQ30 and it even had a variable LIM. To do the sparkplugs on the rear bank you had to take the intake manifold off. Doing that on the Taurus was the gateway for me. Since then not much has phased me as far as working on cars. I realized with a camera and a good forum like this one with knowledgable people, anything can be done. Hell, I rebuilt the tranny on my Max in just a couple days with help from here and I had absolutely no idea what I was doing from the beginning.

Anyway, as far as my 00vi swap goes, I need to find a lot of parts before I can start the swap. I've been very busy lately, but in a week or two I am going to clean everything up, pull the swirl valves from the lim, do that preventative fix for the VIAS, and start figuring out how I am going to route and deal with all the vacuum lines and EGR.


BTW, do you have anything like a VAFC or SAFC to tune it? With the DE-K injectors it is going to run really rich.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure you need a VAFC to activate the VI... SAFC wouldn't be as beneficial, i think?

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Yep, only reason I would go with a SAFC is if I found one for really really cheap, and then just get an RPM switch for the VI.

But other than that, I think the VAFC 2 has more points in the RPM range that you can tune compared with the SAFC 2. And of course the RPM switch.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I just got my VAFC-2 in the mail, and I should have my IACV on the way. So far it doesn't look like I need anything other than the rear valve cover and coil packs.

I have already dumped so much money into this I think I might just stick with modifying my rear valve cover and coil packs.




Anyway, I have a quick question about the VAFC-2 install. It shows these plugs and plug receptacles:


Are those necessary? I have seen various other diagrams which show the same things, except on the RPM, TPS, and more importantly in every diagram I have seen, the MAF or MAP sensor wires always have this setup. My VAFC's wires are just clipped so I don't have those. If I were to just twist my ECU wires together with the VAFC wires and solder them, would that work ok or is there a reason these wires use this plug/plug receptacle thing?

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

AFAIK, the orange, light blue[from the top list] and everything in the bottom list wont be used for the ECU. The VTEC output is for the 00VI activation.

As long as the connection is there, the type (twist, solder, connector) doesnt matter.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Awesome! Thanks for the info.

Also, I was wondering, if I understand correctly with the VAFC2, there are 12 control points below the vtec switchover point and 12 control points above. I guess there is also a set for low throttle and wide open throttle?

Can anyone clarify on how that tuning works? All the guides I have read here on Maxima.org deal with its usage on the VQ35 to lean it out after headers. Since the ECU is in closed loop mode under light throttle, for them it doesn't matter.

But, with the 00vi, since the injectors are larger, somehow I will have to tune it for low throttle and idle as well as WOT? How does this fit in with the ECU controlling it automatically to hit that target 14.7 a/f ratio under partial load?

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Someone else will have to chime in there, thats where my knowledge stops.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

The ECU will go off the stock maps when idle and low throttle%(closed loop) using the stock o2. Usually people tune for WOT or 75-80% and up. But then again i dont have a apexi so i wouldnt know the slightest thing what you do and what you dont have.(IE data log ect ect)

OT:

I will have a 5th gen rear VC and Coils if i decide to part out my 00vi(which could be possible depending on this proposal)

Id be willing to trade for something worth while(doesnt have to be maxima related but i would probley be more willing to trade for max parts)

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

I might be interested in the rear coils/vc. The only thing making me hesitant to use the 4th gen rear setup is just the PCV valve. If I were to throw a 90 degree elbow on the valve cover and hook a hose up and relocate the PCV, how much more oil would it take in than the original setup? Would it be dangerous levels?

What about if I were to use the 5th gen VC so I don't have to worry about PCV stuff, will the 4th gen coils work with it if I grind them down?


And one last question, I know it will be running rich with the DEK injectors, until I can get it tuned will it be dangerously rich to the point of harming my catalytic converters?