3rd gen VQ35DE Full ECU Swap Progress Thread
#1162
I recently installed a netbook mount in my car. I finally got tired of my computer sliding around as I race my Maxima. I got the following kit from Easy Laptop Mounts: http://cgi.ebay.com/Small-Car-Truck-...item3c9de686a8
I hope to hit the track again this Thursday to do some further suspension testing. It will be nice not to have to bend over to the floor just to push a button to datalog my runs. Plus, if I have to alter my tune, I won't have the laptop on my lap in the driver's seat, which is a huge pain hunching over to see the screen while draping the USB cable over the shifter ****.
I hope to hit the track again this Thursday to do some further suspension testing. It will be nice not to have to bend over to the floor just to push a button to datalog my runs. Plus, if I have to alter my tune, I won't have the laptop on my lap in the driver's seat, which is a huge pain hunching over to see the screen while draping the USB cable over the shifter ****.
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 04-26-2010 at 06:31 PM.
#1165
Nice laptop setup That's cool!
#1167
I spent today adjusting my front Koni struts to 100% firm to prevent front end rise. It definitely made a noticeable difference on how much the front end rises on the launch. Can't wait to test things out on the track tomorrow night. The front end doesn't rise at all from what I can tell. Not on the initial launch with street tires. It reminds me of when I had my front spring perches locked with a cable, but without the vicious bouncing.
I was able to adjust my Konis while they were still on the Maxima too. I posted a thread in the 3rd gen forum if you are interested in the write up.
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ving-them.html
I was able to adjust my Konis while they were still on the Maxima too. I posted a thread in the 3rd gen forum if you are interested in the write up.
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ving-them.html
#1168
I tested the new front suspension out on the track last Thursday. My 60 foots were exactly the same. Things were definitely much more bumpy than before and that could cause me to have more traction issues if I hit a dip or bump on the track. On my first run after a good burnout, I hooked off the line, but then noticed the slicks spinning a tad in the top of 1st gear. When I shifted into 2nd, the slicks broke completely lose and I backed out. After that, I had very consistent 60 foots all night long like I always do with these 20" slicks. Only time will tell if going from 60% to 100% was beneficial for me. I'm guessing it was and that I just hit a slick spot on the track.
Also, I just installed my new decals. My first race of the season is this Thursday in Kinston, NC where I'm racing in their first Heads Up Import Drag Racing event in the All Motor class. I should be the fastest NA import out there. But I hope some serious NA engine swapped Civics show up to make things fun.
Also, I just installed my new decals. My first race of the season is this Thursday in Kinston, NC where I'm racing in their first Heads Up Import Drag Racing event in the All Motor class. I should be the fastest NA import out there. But I hope some serious NA engine swapped Civics show up to make things fun.
#1170
Also, after a LOT of testing, I was able to find a way to use the 02 Maxima steering wheel with the cruise control switch. The trick was finding a way to still use my 3rd gen combination and wiper switches and have the turn signal auto-off still function properly when you straighten the wheel back up. I first tried to put my 3rd gen comb/wiper switches on the 5.5 gen spiral cable assembly. After a lot of dremeling and custom work, I was able to get them mounted. But the auto-off turn signals won't work with this setup.
But, I found that the slip ring assembly from a non-airbag 3rd gen worked GREAT on the 5.5 gen steering wheel after a little modifying! Thanks Jared! Then, I did a little custom wiring to make it all work.
3rd gen non-airbag slip ring assembly and comb./wiper switch mounting bracket on the 5.5 gen steering wheel:
Airbag was already blow from the salvage yard. So I trimmed it up a tad.
I pieced together the airbag cover pieces and stuck it in place. Doesn't look bad, huh?
#1171
The 02 Maxima steering wheel will go on pretty much any Nissan. So that was easy. I just wanted to find a way to get the stock 02 Max steering CC module to work with my 92 Maxima slip ring or spiral cable assembly. I wanted to use the 92 setup since I really wanted to use my 92 combination switch and wiper switch.
#1172
It's been several years since I talked with Andre at Edge Racing Converters. I'm ready to wake this beast up off the line. A 4000+ stall shouldn't be a problem he said. He's currently digging up all his notes and will find a setup that will give me the best ET possible.
#1174
Damn that car is sitting up high. Weight reduction FTW!
The stance reminds me of Krismax's car, though your car is much more composed going down the track and its faster.
Wonder if there is a way to dial in some more anti-lift & anti-squat on the front and rear suspension, would help with traction and 60' foots.
The stance reminds me of Krismax's car, though your car is much more composed going down the track and its faster.
Wonder if there is a way to dial in some more anti-lift & anti-squat on the front and rear suspension, would help with traction and 60' foots.
#1176
He just needs to get a new converter in there and it will fly!!!
It's been several years since I talked with Andre at Edge Racing Converters. I'm ready to wake this beast up off the line. A 4000+ stall shouldn't be a problem he said. He's currently digging up all his notes and will find a setup that will give me the best ET possible.
#1177
Damn that car is sitting up high. Weight reduction FTW!
The stance reminds me of Krismax's car, though your car is much more composed going down the track and its faster.
Wonder if there is a way to dial in some more anti-lift & anti-squat on the front and rear suspension, would help with traction and 60' foots.
The stance reminds me of Krismax's car, though your car is much more composed going down the track and its faster.
Wonder if there is a way to dial in some more anti-lift & anti-squat on the front and rear suspension, would help with traction and 60' foots.
And the rear springs have as many rubber blocks I could hammer into place to prevent excessive drop on the launch.
I told Andre to go as extreme as he possibly can with the torque converter. So he's going to set the STR (torque multiplier) as high as possible and get my true stall to at least 4000 rpm. It will hurt my power later down the track and should lower my trap speed. But I told him as clear as I could, "Trap speeds are meaningless. That is the least of my worries. It's the ET that wins races, not trap speed". He totally agreed.
So, I should be generating more heat with a much higher stall. I'll probably get a monster tranny cooler with a fan on it if I need it. I have a small cooler now which is plenty for my 3K stall converter. I never see tranny temps above 160.
I'll be able to hit 11s easily with the higher stall. I won't even need cool weather. I should be able to do it in 80+ degree heat. I may need bigger slicks though. I'll worry about that when I start having more traction issues.
#1178
Yeah, no doubt about it. Might need to step up to the 22" or 23" slicks though. You're gonna be right at your powerband now. Full power out of the hole if it hooks should get you a 1.6 60'.
#1179
So I'll probably get 24.5" slicks since that's the largest slick that I'm allowed to run in most of the Heads Up Import events that I want to start racing in. NSCRA and IFO.
And yes, 1.6s should be very possible. I'm thinking 1.70-1.73s as a conservative estimate even in the extreme summer heat with the engine making less HP.
#1183
I just got an email from Andre at Edge Racing Converters again and he said the highest he will set my stall is 3900-4000rpm. He refuses to set it any higher since it will damage my transmission and kill my HP too much due to it being too loose. I told him to build me a converter that will give me the absolute best ETs possible even if it means making several sacrifices. He's been doing calculations for several days now and probably has come up with something. So if 4K is the highest he thinks I should go, then I will probably go ahead and trust him and get it done.
Then I'll have my 3000 stall converter up for sale soon after that. I'm sure that will sell pretty quick considering it helped my times by 3 tenths plus you can't tell you have a high stall. Streetability is flawless.
So, I will have to mod my car from here on out to start making power at 3800 rpm. Right now, my car doesn't do anything until 4100rpm. I may decide to play around with the stock intake manifold and the Z manifold as well to get back some of my low end power. I assume ITBs will make my low end even worse. What do you think?
#1184
Yeah, I like what you guys are doing. I may follow you one day.
I just got an email from Andre at Edge Racing Converters again and he said the highest he will set my stall is 3900-4000rpm. He refuses to set it any higher since it will damage my transmission and kill my HP too much due to it being too loose. I told him to build me a converter that will give me the absolute best ETs possible even if it means making several sacrifices. He's been doing calculations for several days now and probably has come up with something. So if 4K is the highest he thinks I should go, then I will probably go ahead and trust him and get it done.
Then I'll have my 3000 stall converter up for sale soon after that. I'm sure that will sell pretty quick considering it helped my times by 3 tenths plus you can't tell you have a high stall. Streetability is flawless.
So, I will have to mod my car from here on out to start making power at 3800 rpm. Right now, my car doesn't do anything until 4100rpm. I may decide to play around with the stock intake manifold and the Z manifold as well to get back some of my low end power. I assume ITBs will make my low end even worse. What do you think?
I just got an email from Andre at Edge Racing Converters again and he said the highest he will set my stall is 3900-4000rpm. He refuses to set it any higher since it will damage my transmission and kill my HP too much due to it being too loose. I told him to build me a converter that will give me the absolute best ETs possible even if it means making several sacrifices. He's been doing calculations for several days now and probably has come up with something. So if 4K is the highest he thinks I should go, then I will probably go ahead and trust him and get it done.
Then I'll have my 3000 stall converter up for sale soon after that. I'm sure that will sell pretty quick considering it helped my times by 3 tenths plus you can't tell you have a high stall. Streetability is flawless.
So, I will have to mod my car from here on out to start making power at 3800 rpm. Right now, my car doesn't do anything until 4100rpm. I may decide to play around with the stock intake manifold and the Z manifold as well to get back some of my low end power. I assume ITBs will make my low end even worse. What do you think?
#1185
Was this your goal all along? You want to have the fastest "street car" you can with full interior? How much street driving does this Maxima see out of curiosity?
#1186
Edit: Do you have any dyno charts of you runs with and without ITBs? All I could find were youtube videos.
I use to drive my Maxima every day. But since I purchased my new 05 Frontier truck, I have left the rear skinnies on the car for right now. I don't drive it as much as anymore.
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 05-18-2010 at 07:39 AM.
#1187
I talked to Andre about new torque converter build today. The build is now underway. He'll know more about his options once he gets his hands dirty. But right now, an efficient 4K+ stall TC will be near impossible to build. Anything higher than 4K rpm will just build up too much heat during stop and go traffic and be less than 90% efficient at laying down power further down the track. I told him to consider this a "track only" car. If that means I can't drive in the city for more than 10 minutes, then I'll be fine with that. 95% of my driving is cruising with the TC locked up at 55mph on the country back roads.
I will leave the calculations up to Andre, he's the specialists. I can't wait to see what he comes up with! My goal is to be able to launch right at 4K or a tad higher to eliminate my lag.
I will leave the calculations up to Andre, he's the specialists. I can't wait to see what he comes up with! My goal is to be able to launch right at 4K or a tad higher to eliminate my lag.
#1188
My torque converter is in the mail now. The soonest I will be able to install it will be in mid June. I need to have it installed before the upcoming import heads up race in Maryland on July 11th.
Andre said that I should see over 4K rpm with this TC. We'll find out once I install it. I can't wait to see what this does to my 60 foots!
Andre said that I should see over 4K rpm with this TC. We'll find out once I install it. I can't wait to see what this does to my 60 foots!
#1192
#1193
I have a HUGE SICC sanction heads up import race in Fayetteville, NC on July 10th that I am preparing for. It will be the street All Motor class. So I will have to put my full interior back in. I will be installing some lightweight carpet, headliner, and dash all back in. I should be able to run 12.4s even in 80 degree weather with the additional weight. With the 4K+ stall TC, who knows! It depends if I can hook up. I will be very happy with low 12s with the new TC at this particular race.
11s will happen. I'm just hoping I can do it sometime this summer. Then come winter, I'll be several tenths faster.
11s will happen. I'm just hoping I can do it sometime this summer. Then come winter, I'll be several tenths faster.
#1194
I have a HUGE SICC sanction heads up import race in Fayetteville, NC on July 10th that I am preparing for. It will be the street All Motor class. So I will have to put my full interior back in. I will be installing some lightweight carpet, headliner, and dash all back in. I should be able to run 12.4s even in 80 degree weather with the additional weight. With the 4K+ stall TC, who knows! It depends if I can hook up. I will be very happy with low 12s with the new TC at this particular race.
11s will happen. I'm just hoping I can do it sometime this summer. Then come winter, I'll be several tenths faster.
11s will happen. I'm just hoping I can do it sometime this summer. Then come winter, I'll be several tenths faster.
#1195
I have two pairs of slicks that I use right now. The 20" MT slicks on 14" wheels and the 22" MT slicks on the 15" wheels. Both hook up about the same for me, but it varies from track to track, day to day.
On one of my testing days, I compared the 20" to 22" MT slick on the same day. Track prep was very poor on this particular day. And I think my 22" slicks aren't the softest they can be. But, the 20" slicks hooked up much more consistently. So, I will probably bring both pairs just in case one hooks better than the other.
Also, according to my calculations, with the 4K+ stall, I will be launching right in the powerband. Gearing is no longer an issue for me. The only reason the smaller slicks helped me out so much is because of the time it takes for me to rev from idle to 4000rpm in 1st gear. But my drag simulator shows that 20" slicks versus 24.5" slicks give me the exact same 60' and 1/4 mile ET IF they both hook up. So, I will probably be purchasing a new set of 24.5" slicks pretty soon since that is the largest I am allowed to run in the drag racing sanctions I plan on competing in (NSCRA, IFO, SICC).
On one of my testing days, I compared the 20" to 22" MT slick on the same day. Track prep was very poor on this particular day. And I think my 22" slicks aren't the softest they can be. But, the 20" slicks hooked up much more consistently. So, I will probably bring both pairs just in case one hooks better than the other.
Also, according to my calculations, with the 4K+ stall, I will be launching right in the powerband. Gearing is no longer an issue for me. The only reason the smaller slicks helped me out so much is because of the time it takes for me to rev from idle to 4000rpm in 1st gear. But my drag simulator shows that 20" slicks versus 24.5" slicks give me the exact same 60' and 1/4 mile ET IF they both hook up. So, I will probably be purchasing a new set of 24.5" slicks pretty soon since that is the largest I am allowed to run in the drag racing sanctions I plan on competing in (NSCRA, IFO, SICC).
#1197
So with the new higher stall about to go in, it will be even harder to dead hook especially during a TnT session. So I'll be experimenting with larger slicks more than likely.
#1198
I could probably still hook on both the 20 and 22" slicks. But it will totally depend on the track conditions that particular day. I doubt I'll be able to hook with either of them on my local track during a TnT session where there are never any big slick cars laying down rubber and heating the surface. I'd have to be racing during a big race day in order to get those small slicks to dead hook. That's the way it is now with my 3K stall.
So with the new higher stall about to go in, it will be even harder to dead hook especially during a TnT session. So I'll be experimenting with larger slicks more than likely.
So with the new higher stall about to go in, it will be even harder to dead hook especially during a TnT session. So I'll be experimenting with larger slicks more than likely.
Interested to see how much the new stall helps you!
#1199
But we won't know before it's installed. Andre set it a little looser than he normally would do for a street car. But since he built this as a trailer car, he agreed to raise the stall higher than normal. I may not be able to drive this Maxima in traffic anymore without the temps getting out of control. But locked up highway cruising won't be a problem.
I need to go out and buy a new ATF and another temp gauge since my old mechanical Sunpro is starting to puke on me. I'm thinking of getting two electrical sending units (coolant and ATF) and wire them to one gauge with a switch. Not sure yet.
#1200
Well, as of today, my car no longer has nitrous on it. I had to remove it in order to pass inspection for the street all motor classes I'll be entering this summer, specifically the SICC race in Fayetteville, NC July 10th. Winner takes home $2000!