If you're going to install rev-up cams.......

[KRRZ350]

Update: Make sure you have some vq30 intake cam bolts handy to use on the rev-up exhaust cams.








Timing guy says hello

[MDeezy]

Good info. You didnt find this out the hard way did you?

[nismology]

Interesting.

[KRRZ350]

Originally Posted by MDeezy

Good info. You didnt find this out the hard way did you?

No, thank god, well I mean yes, I found out the hard way as in I found out I needed them. But the REAL hard way would have been if the stock bolts had threaded in far enough to be installed and block the oil passage and I hadn't noticed.

[accordingtou]

Thanks for the heads up
Post pics when you get a chance.

[NiZMo1o1]

Rev up cams you say ? subscribing...

[KRRZ350]

I don't get it, I absolutely don't ****ing get it. Unless Fast is wrong (Big ups to Dave B, he is the MAN, helped me confirm my dealers part #)

But unless fast is wrong....... I'm seeing a huge problem here. I'm sitting here with pics of the lubrication circuits for both rev-ups and regular VQ35de's in my lap and here's the problem......

On regular 3.5's oil comes up through the #1 cam journal, where it is fed inside of the camshaft to lubricate the rest of the cam journals. On a regular 3.5 all is fine and dandy, because the feed holes from that number 1 journal are after the sprocket bolt, allowing the camshaft to be filled with oil. Now, on the rev-ups, it is exactly the same asides from the additional branch to lubricate the exhaust vtc.

Now, the problem is, the feed holes on the rev-up cams are before the threads, so in order to feed the rest of the cam journals either A: the bolt must contain oil passages. or B: there must be a secret oil passage inside the camshaft somewhere that bypasse the threads. This sucks. I'll try to draw out what I am talking about. Right now I'm semi ****ed, allthough I did manage to find out that a bolt I have, which I beleive is an intake cam sprocket bolt from a 3.0, is perfect length! minus the lubrication problem.

[nismology]

I'm assuming you haven't received the RU exhaust sprocket bolts yet...?

[pmohr]

Originally Posted by nismology

I'm assuming you haven't received the RU exhaust sprocket bolts yet...?

He called me up at work, apparently the same as the intake bolts.

In any case like I said on the phone, :

But now that I see it in writing I know exactly what you mean, I'll see what I can find out.

Honestly, easiest way of checking: bottom out the bolt in the cam (out of the car), then compressed air, brake parts cleaner, something through the feed in the number one journal, see if you get anything out of the other oiling holes. That's what I'd do if I was wondering, personally.

Name's Paul, btw.

[KRRZ350]

Update. So here's the kicker (good suggestion Paul, Me and my landlord were discussing that earlier) Anyways, wow, ****ing FSM FTL. I hope anyways :Hide: Anyways, it appears that the FSM isn't correct, the #1 cam journal has an oil passage leading up to it, it lubricates itself. The #2 cam bearing journal ALSO has an oil passage leading up to it, and that one runs through the cam and feeds 3 & 4, if you look at a #2 cam bearing cap or can remember, this is the one that has a little extra flange coming off of it, not shaped symetrical like the 3 & 4 (I know, there not sym at all ) The #1 also has these passages, yet according to the FSM's for both ru, regular 3.5, as well as 3.0 this passage doesn't exist and the chart says #1 journal feeds 2-3-4.

So, hopefully all goes well tommorrow morning, covers are all buttoned up and sitting for the night, I'll have a little work ahead of me and than I will fire it up, looking forward to taking it for a spin

Now, on to the bolt situation, since I still had one, albeit much more minor.... Intake cam bolts from a VQ30 are the PERFECT dimensions

[nismology]

That's great news!




Now only to determine what the exhaust cam timing is gonna be.....

[KRRZ350]

Added some pictars, not that it really matters now.

Dyno's will be added in a week or two when the after runs are completed, but a full ssim was done at the same time so it will be hard to discern the total gains from just these.

Impressions: Obviously, it screams. It pulls really REALLY hard at redline, but this is a no-brainer. Clearly, especially since the exhaust opens 18* earlier and closes 10* sooner, something other than just the catman cat-back is needed, so the results might be anemic compared to what they will show three weeks from now when the car get's some ported 3.0 cast manifolds and e-bay y-pipe put on it. The owner, who is also a mechanic and attended uti is all about the 3.0 manifolds, not only for the heat retention helping flow, but also because high-rpm power is what he is after and the shorty headers fit that bill a little better than long-tubes. Engine management will come down the road, but rest assured the rev-limiter will be raised eventually.

Also, for those that don't know, here's the most notable differences in these cams:

1mm increased lift, 2* additional overlap for a total of 4* durations are 248/248 vs stock which is 240 intake & 238 exhaust. Granted they aren't anything special compared to aftermarkets which tend to run 2.5mm extra lift and 260+ durations, but still.

[nismology]

We still don't know what the exhaust cam timing is because we don't know when the magnetic retarders do what.


And I'll save my opinion regarding the stock manifolds as it isn't germane to this discussion.

[Kevlo911]

I am kevlo and I approve of the pics in this thread

[NiZMo1o1]

nice find , cant wait for some dynos.

[accordingtou]

Originally Posted by KRRZ350

Added some pictars, not that it really matters now.

Dyno's will be added in a week or two when the after runs are completed, but a full ssim was done at the same time so it will be hard to discern the total gains from just these.

Impressions: Obviously, it screams. It pulls really REALLY hard at redline, but this is a no-brainer. Clearly, especially since the exhaust opens 18* earlier and closes 10* sooner, something other than just the catman cat-back is needed, so the results might be anemic compared to what they will show three weeks from now when the car get's some ported 3.0 cast manifolds and e-bay y-pipe put on it. The owner, who is also a mechanic and attended uti is all about the 3.0 manifolds, not only for the heat retention helping flow, but also because high-rpm power is what he is after and the shorty headers fit that bill a little better than long-tubes. Engine management will come down the road, but rest assured the rev-limiter will be raised eventually.

Also, for those that don't know, here's the most notable differences in these cams:

1mm increased lift, 2* additional overlap for a total of 4* durations are 248/248 vs stock which is 240 intake & 238 exhaust. Granted they aren't anything special compared to aftermarkets which tend to run 2.5mm extra lift and 260+ durations, but still.

Class is in session...

[KRRZ350]

Originally Posted by Kevlo911

I am kevlo and I approve of the pics in this thread

I am KRRZ350, and unlike you I needed 2 breaker bars........

Originally Posted by nismology

We still don't know what the exhaust cam timing is because we don't know when the magnetic retarders do what.


And I'll save my opinion regarding the stock manifolds as it isn't germane to this discussion.

True, my geuss though is that (intake valve timing control - Off) implies that the exhaust specs given would be set like that as well and the result of not having the retarders on there would leave them at that spec all the time, but very true and unfortunatly I don't think we will know any time soon.

[pmohr]

Originally Posted by KRRZ350

I am KRRZ350, and unlike you I needed 2 breaker bars........

I used to do that, then I just started to use an impact on the cam bolts. Sure, you can crack them...supposedly. There are also a lot of other things you 'shouldn't' do, like placing a battery directly on a concrete floor (bah).

[KRRZ350]

For the intakes it was fine, but on the exhaust bolts I had my gun going "bam bam bam bam bam" FOREVER. I wouldn't use them to loosen cam bolts if the cam's were staying though, and I DEF wouldn't use them for tightening. I had a VQ cam break on my 3.5, I'm fairly certain it was from the accident though, because it broke exactly where the front valve cover was shattered, but I will never know, it took out the #1 cam journal, gouged the cover & secondary tensioner, and warped the sprocket. Didn't bend a single valve though And I did have the sprockets on and off several times because of the 200k tensioner jumping timing incident.

[allblackmax96]

just wanted to give my 2 cents on the setup (since its my car). screamer, haha. it feels like it wants to just keep going right past redline. i personally don't feel much low end torque loss (from the butt dyno, we shall see what happens on the dynojet), hopefully if all goes well i can get it on the dyno this week or the following. ill post the runs as soon as i get them.

[vipervadim]

Very Good Job...

I've installed the first set of 350zRev-up cams in a 3.5L swap for somebody on NYCMaximas.org

I was gonna post that you DON'T have to worry about the oil passages (at least on a 3.5L)... I also used the VQ30 Cam Bolts, instead of the VQ35. 22mm head seems much sturdier, and was meant to use with the 3.0L timing (maybe acts as balancer, who knows)

you just have to be sure you set the cam spacer timing right.

I used the Cyl1 TDC and I rotated and lined up the intake + exhaust cam lobes (Lobe separation angle?) to get it right then marked the actual location of the necessary timing dowel relocation.

here's a pic of them installed (note: dual VTC intake + exhaust ring for cam sensors)



Cyl1 LSA


just wanted to share my findings since we're on the topic, and I've done it already..

Good Job

[NiZMo1o1]

Viper ,any dynos with the revup cams ?