3.5 swap....wont start..need help..

*maximariceboi* · 05-26-2008, 11:49 PM

Hey guys....

I'm having problems starting up my 3.5 on my 4th gen. I could't even start
the car since I got the motor in last weekend.

Today I have concluded that I have no spark.

Also maybe a faulty sard fpr. I could not get the psi set to 51. I also set this up as a returnless fuel system. From fuel filter line to tee, 1 end of the tee goes to the fuel rail/fuel damper line, and the other goes to the fpr (in). the return line goes under fpr (out). i have the gauge attached to the fpr as well. the gauge might be faulty as well since its a sard knock off.

I checked the ground wires, crank/cam sensors (3) and cleaned the crank sensor under the crank pulley. I'm using a 3.5 cps so i spliced the harness plug.

Could the sensors be bad? possible the 3.5 cps? the other sensors were working before since they were on my 3.0

Could the timing be off which would cause this problem?

I have pictures of my progress..

few questions: built n/a 3.5 and use later for sc

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

*KRRZ350* · 05-27-2008, 06:31 AM

Codes? I know you at least have some, so what are they?

Cam timing off could cause no spark and no start (if it was BAD) But the no spark wouldn't be on every cylinder, check a few other cylinders.

*liqidvenom* · 05-27-2008, 07:15 AM

i'm not sure how much help i can be but i'll try and swing by tonight now that i'm back from the shore.

*maximariceboi* · 05-27-2008, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KRRZ350

Codes? I know you at least have some, so what are they?

Cam timing off could cause no spark and no start (if it was BAD) But the no spark wouldn't be on every cylinder, check a few other cylinders.

I'll put it on the computer again. Last time I did it, there was only one code for the boost sensor...that wasn't hooked up at the time.

I checked 3 front cylinders..no spark..i have to take the manifold off to check the rears..

I'm also using Stephen Max's cam adaptors which are set to 119-121/112...looks like i have to pull the motor out again huh..

*KRRZ350* · 05-28-2008, 07:24 PM

No, I wouldn't pull the motor, and not just because I drop them, but I still bet it's related to a CPS.

**Kevlo911** · 05-28-2008, 09:15 PM

So let me get this strait.

With the 3.5 Oil pan:
3.0 Crank POS sensor on tranny = take off 1/4 inch on oil pan so the sensor sits closer
OR
Use the 3.5 sensor and harness w/o problems

3.0 Crank REF sensor on oil pan with the 3.0 pulley/timing ring
and no other option?

*KRRZ350* · 05-29-2008, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevlo911

So let me get this strait.

With the 3.5 Oil pan:
3.0 Crank POS sensor on tranny = take off 1/4 inch on oil pan so the sensor sits closer
OR
Use the 3.5 sensor and harness w/o problems

3.0 Crank REF sensor on oil pan with the 3.0 pulley/timing ring
and no other option?

You got it

but what's odd is everytime I've done this I've also found that the 3.5 pan sits the POS a hair to far off to the driverside as well, amd I've had to elongate the hole on the actually sensor, no-one else has ever complained about this, but it's something I always notice when trying to make that POS sit dead nuts in front of the timing ring w/tranny off.

2 FYI's....... The first thing you should do is check EVERY fuse related to eccs, under the hood and under the dash.

The 2nd = 51psi is WAY to much, I set it up for about 2 psi less than stock, can't remember if that's (w/vacuum line connected) 36, 34, 32, or what, I always forget and have to check in the FSM. But the oldschool faq is so off, 51 psi would only apply with the pulse-width durations run by the 3.5 ecu, but with the 4th gen ecu it's way overkill, but it's not your issue obviously, just wanted to say that since you mentioned 51psi.

*maximariceboi* · 06-06-2008, 12:53 AM

ok so it was probably a fualty cps. Tavarish was here to help me out on this so we shaved the 3.5 oil pan last weekend and starts right up.

Had an oil leak insident but that was resolved during the weekend.

Finally got the car out of the lift since there is a problem with the lift in not going all the way down...old school hydrolic cylinder lift.

Ok 3 codes that pulled up. crank shaft position sensor, iacv and misfire.

For the crank shaft I will be grinding it more so its sits a I guess more flush to the tranny/block.

The car idles fine i guess...around 700-750 and around 40psi. I'm using rev up injectors which are i belive 350cc.

I think I still have an exhaust leak...not too sure where but I think its from the cat. I'm basically running everything free flow...cattman headers, cattman catback and gutted cat (was clogged before). I will be getting a OEM cat for replacement to quite the exhaust tone down and help save the environment somewhat...anyway..

Having some starting issues as well. Tavarish recommended me to ground the tranny and starter which I will get done saturday and shave down the 3.5 oil pan more.

Now here is the main concern....the car only revs up to 5900ish RPM. It would not go any further and starts to back fire......can anyone help me on this? It revs fine under 5900rpm.

I'm not sure if cam timing would be a factor to cause this or the actual cams itself? I'm using the S1 knock off cams with stephen max cam adaptors which are set to 119-121/123. I spoke to dandymax about the timing and he recommended these specs for mid range and top end.

OR

Can it be the misfire causing it not to rev past 5900? Too much fuel? bad coil?

I would like to thank Tavarish for helping me out lately, to the guys that were helping me over the phone and the guys who replied on my threads.

95BLKMAX · 06-06-2008, 01:09 AM

The first thing the popped into my head was ubber rich from those big injectors you're running. That combined with the missfire can easily keep you from reving passed a certain point.

Do you have a wideband to keep an eye on the a/f ratio? What about a tuning device? AFC/ EB/EU, etc...?

*maximariceboi* · 06-06-2008, 01:26 AM

yea..i figured its due to those large injectors....i do not have a wideband at the moment but im actually placing and order tomorrow and im also waiting on my EU that i ordered.

i might just swap the stock injectors back in there to see what happens and leave it as it is till i get my wideband and EU.

any suggestions on the widebands? thanks

**Kevlo911** · 06-06-2008, 07:31 AM

LM-1 is a good wideband, look up the wideband review. The revving issue is most likely a crank sensor issue/fuel

*maximariceboi* · 06-06-2008, 08:21 AM

yea..i'll check on it tonight after work...i really dont want to swap injectors lol....thanks guys.

95BLKMAX · 06-06-2008, 10:50 AM

I have an LC1. for my purposes its perfectly fine

*KRRZ350* · 06-06-2008, 12:24 PM

What I'm about to suggest sucks but it sounds like it will be taking care of two things that, whether or not they are causing any problems, should still be done.

Pull the tranny. The grounding issue sucks, way back before I knew about that I had that issue hardcore, and even after running 5 ground wires really good it still wasn't 100%, pulling the tranny and using some sort of power tool will make it pro.

The other thing is that you really want to do the pos cps with the tranny off, it allows you to get it right on the money. Also, I was kinda hoping for comments or to see if anybody else had this proble, but the times I've used the 3.5 pan it not only was off distance wise, but horrizontaly as well. It might not be required, but I really like to get that sensor sitting dead center and, oh I dunno, maybe 2mm away.

As for the cps being your problem, definitly not saying that it is by any means. In fact, you didn't mention if your new code is from the pos or ref. But since it sounds like you have shaved the pan and are now using the 3.0 sensor (which might be good in a way, damaged 3.5 sensors are VERY common on yard motors, I've noticed they suffer damage well before the front valve cover or the passanger side axle bolt holes

) And if you are using that set-up (the only one I know, still yet to use a 3.5 sensor) than I recommend regardless getting rid of that code, and preferably doing it quality by pulling the tranny. Anyways, I was unaware that rev-up injectors were bigger, looks like you learn something every day, but anyways that "could" cause it, but just because of the "nature of the beast" I'd first like to know what your FP is set at (in fact if you KNOW that the rev-up injectors are larger than typical 3.5, drop it even more than 1-2lb's les than stock, I hold no liability) as well as how it idles and what the vacuum reading is. Did you use a new tensioner? Prime it? very careful ensuring correct alignment?

Sorry for the super-long post with way to many parenthesis, I should be doing a million-and-one other things and I'm getting ticked about this stupid place not calling me back about some GR2's

*accordingtou* · 06-10-2008, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maximariceboi

ok so it was probably a fualty cps. Tavarish was here to help me out on this so we shaved the 3.5 oil pan last weekend and starts right up.

Had an oil leak insident but that was resolved during the weekend.

Finally got the car out of the lift since there is a problem with the lift in not going all the way down...old school hydrolic cylinder lift.

Ok 3 codes that pulled up. crank shaft position sensor, iacv and misfire.

For the crank shaft I will be grinding it more so its sits a I guess more flush to the tranny/block.

The car idles fine i guess...around 700-750 and around 40psi. I'm using rev up injectors which are i belive 350cc.

I think I still have an exhaust leak...not too sure where but I think its from the cat. I'm basically running everything free flow...cattman headers, cattman catback and gutted cat (was clogged before). I will be getting a OEM cat for replacement to quite the exhaust tone down and help save the environment somewhat...anyway..

Having some starting issues as well. Tavarish recommended me to ground the tranny and starter which I will get done saturday and shave down the 3.5 oil pan more.

Now here is the main concern....the car only revs up to 5900ish RPM. It would not go any further and starts to back fire......can anyone help me on this? It revs fine under 5900rpm.

I'm not sure if cam timing would be a factor to cause this or the actual cams itself? I'm using the S1 knock off cams with stephen max cam adaptors which are set to 119-121/123. I spoke to dandymax about the timing and he recommended these specs for mid range and top end.

OR

Can it be the misfire causing it not to rev past 5900? Too much fuel? bad coil?

I would like to thank Tavarish for helping me out lately, to the guys that were helping me over the phone and the guys who replied on my threads.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...22&postcount=4

*DandyMax* · 06-12-2008, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevlo911

The revving issue is most likely a crank sensor issue/fuel

I agree. And your cam timing is probably 119/112 IIRC...

*maximariceboi* · 07-04-2008, 01:44 PM

hey guys...i forgot to update this thread....my 3.5 has been running and made it to HIN. it was a CPS issue and the cps wasnt flush so grinding the oil pan a bit more did the trick.

there are a few problems which i would be checking on tomorrow and now for some reason im idling pretty high. im just going to adjust the tb and lower the fuel pressure a bit.

thanks for all of your help guys

*maximariceboi* · 07-12-2008, 09:13 AM

question..since im using rev up injectors.....what fuel pressure should i set it to? ~30psi? i also need to see if my pathy tb where the iacv is leaking or not since i purchased it from here....it was jb welded which i did not know when i purchased it. maybe i have a leak there..

i cant find a place to weld a 02 bung on my ypipe...car is too low for them to drive in the bay....i got my aem uego wb02 3 weeks ago and i finally got another EU last week. if i have a welder i would do this myself..

i fixed my exhaust leak on the bpipe and rattling noise which came out to be a loose 02 sensor on the front header.

the car is getting there slowly and only has about 460 miles since the swap...the engine still needs to break in for another 600 miles or so before i can start pushing it =]

*maximariceboi* · 08-20-2008, 07:45 PM

okk soo after 1100 miles....i have some blue smoke coming out of my exhaust....my friend said it was not constant but at high speeds he saw some blue smoke.....could it be the valve seals?

or maybe just some oil in the intake manifolds??? i saw a good amout of oil in the LIM and upper but i couldnt clean the upper much since i have a kinetix mani....i dont have a oil catch can installed yet. planning to change the pcv and put a oil catch can on it soon....

*maximariceboi* · 09-24-2008, 04:05 PM

so i got a new pcv valve, added a oil catch can....seems ok...EU is installed....adjusted a few things on the injector duration from kevlo's specs...i step on the gas and theres a huge cloud of blueish smoke coming out my my exhaust...could be running rich still..i dont know....but i never seen so much smoke coming out before.

*accordingtou* · 09-24-2008, 10:41 PM

I thought you installed a wideband

Whats your fuel psi @ idle and whats your afr @ wot?
Btw Blue smoke means oil

*maximariceboi* · 09-25-2008, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by accordingtou

I thought you installed a wideband

Whats your fuel psi @ idle and whats your afr @ wot?
Btw Blue smoke means oil

aem uego is installed...

fuel pressure is around 33psi and afr @ wot is on the 13's...

yes i know i'm burning oil somewhere...after i adjusted the injector duration like kevlo's specs....thats when i saw all that smoke when i was revving the car a bit....