All MotorAll Motor Advanced Performance. Talk about Engine Swaps, Internal Engine work. Not your basic Y pipe and Intake Information.
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Alright, it's been a LONG two days, hell the entire week. I'm exhausted right now, 4.5 hr's sleep, I think I'm going to take the afternoon off and go fishing.
First. Yes, I know I know, absolutely pathetic that the "SSIM guy" did this with a stock mani temporarily stuck in the open position. I didn't have time to wire up my Baker electronics window switch yet and it's an a/t so it wouldn't have mattered for the dyno anyways, but I'm still anxious to see how it drives with it functioning properly.
OK, what's ill is that even without it functioning the thing is the balls just cruising around town, definitly didn't mean to spin the tires pulling out of the garage. Than of course there is the very nice gains up top, USIM's just plain suck so bad it's not even funny, now it does that weird zingy song when you open it up and take it past 4k.
Sorry for the uncorrected numbers, and to the douche who never replied to my pm's last weekend, I'll still have the runfiles for you come Monday or tuesday.
'98 Infiniti I30, automatic trans.
Before: Stock intake w/drop-in, budget Y, obx catback
(EDIT: CRAP CRAP CRAP, I almost forgot, actually the run 1106 (Slightly higher) Is possibly a better before dyno, since 1111 is with a stock REF sensor, the new 3.5 IM dynos also had that altered REF sensor in place. I did a bunch of before/after runs with that and gains were very very minimal, so actually your more or less seeing variations between runs, but I'm still not done with that yet either, I am going back to the drawing board on a cheap easy way to raise timing on a 4th gen)
After: Same as above, I even put off swapping out the crappy rotted leaky pos budget Y (only 3-years old according to the owner!) On top of that the car needs an alignment like a mofo and I SOOO wanted to get that done this week also but didn't for the dynos, from what I hear that fuxors with an inertia dyno when it's out of alignment?
How I did it: Sorry, I'm not going into ANY specifics, Unless you want to contribute donations towards the $200 I just spent on dyno's, and the late nights of planning, or better yet the stress from the scary idle issues at first start-up on someone elses daily driver. (FYI, it idles PERFECT now). But I will say this: You need to think "outside the box" when it comes to the coil for cylinder #3.
I still need to take care of a few minor things, tape some crap up, mount the FPR, get a different filter, evap is not there, it will also have a functioning egr, probably when an SSIM mani goes on it, if one goes on it.
Enjoy
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Gatorade on my keyboard FTL.
5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
Nice very creative, although judging by the dyno is not too effective, but still cool idea. Having it the vi stuck open means top end should put out more power top end right? because according to the curve it reaches peak then just falls off completely.
Question though... how did you deal with all the emissions stuff, and did you do anything to deal with the port line up issue?
Also again, just to clarify... this is a NON SSIM VQ35 IM, correct? And it's still good for 30whp?????
I know you're frazzled... but... we... need... answers...
To emmisions, haven't dealt with it yet, but I previously did a 3.5 swap with a functioning egr, tapped a 5/8" fitting into the back of the manifold, it was scary, used the top part of an egr tube on the bottom with elongated holes so it would have the egr temp sensor, ran high temp exhaust hose to the fitting on the manifold. This time I may use a 6th gen mani' and a combination of 6th gen guide tube as well.
Yup, non-ssim vq35 mani on 3.0 and it is still good for 30whp, also if you look closely (This is partially in response to streetz) It's up roughly 30 ft/lb's of tourqe and 40hp @ redline, rough math says that's like 40% power increase at redline. But I dunno, the original dyno's seemed low to me, I need to get the DRF's, as well as a copy of Winpep.
Also, please bear in mind that this was an auto, and I forgot that after last weekend I wanted to hold the button to start recording this time, so anything before 4500 should be ignored because I was not yet full throttle, it's a tricky game trying to dyno an auto and not have it downshift while still being able to go wot as early as possible, every time I tried to go just a little bit earlier I'd ruin the run.
Yes, actually I'm pretty sure it won't even run if you try to plop the lower on and call it a day.
congrats on trying something new, this should be good news for people who can not find mevi's.
when another org member was putting together his 3.5 we were looking at how the 3.5 and 3.0 lower and upper intake lined up with the 3.0 and 3.5 heads and vice versa. I have a pretty good idea what you did but I'll just wait till you post more details. But I did have a question since I can not tell from the pic's did you use a pathfinder or 3.0 tb
__________________ My Cardomain _ _Maxima runs 13.4@109
Dyno:? whp & ? wtq
Nitrous PB: 13.4@110mph
All Motor PB: 14.0@99mph
3280lb with driver, full trim, rims, spare, jack, fluids, etc & notorized proof
wait, your the first i've seen w/ an 02vi swap in a vq30. obviously theres a lot of gain but why did you choose this over the 00vi? is the 02vi more effective and what not?
__________________ 03 Z33 Brickyard touring coupe 6spd 97 Maxima - Sold
Quote:
Originally Posted by 35oZephyR View Post
My350z = General Car Enthusiast Forum (sprinkled in with a little Z douchebaggery)
To emmisions, haven't dealt with it yet, but I previously did a 3.5 swap with a functioning egr, tapped a 5/8" fitting into the back of the manifold, it was scary, used the top part of an egr tube on the bottom with elongated holes so it would have the egr temp sensor, ran high temp exhaust hose to the fitting on the manifold. This time I may use a 6th gen mani' and a combination of 6th gen guide tube as well.
Yup, non-ssim vq35 mani on 3.0 and it is still good for 30whp, also if you look closely (This is partially in response to streetz) It's up roughly 30 ft/lb's of tourqe and 40hp @ redline, rough math says that's like 40% power increase at redline. But I dunno, the original dyno's seemed low to me, I need to get the DRF's, as well as a copy of Winpep.
Also, please bear in mind that this was an auto, and I forgot that after last weekend I wanted to hold the button to start recording this time, so anything before 4500 should be ignored because I was not yet full throttle, it's a tricky game trying to dyno an auto and not have it downshift while still being able to go wot as early as possible, every time I tried to go just a little bit earlier I'd ruin the run.
Yea i noticed a good amount of increase in torque, overall its better than USIM, hell anything is better than the USIM. but personally i think the 00vi is still the best mod for n/a after ypipe, specially now days that you can get an 00vi for cheap. With my 00vi and auto as well, it held peak hp (193whp) all the way to redline give or take 3-5hp.
I know you don't want to give us specifics, but what lower IM did you use?
For the life of me, I cannot find that thread where they have a picture comparo of the upper and LIMs
...
I think the defining qualifier of which setup (00VI vs 3.5IM) is better will be which one has the larger plenum volume. Is the 3.5IM a dual stage setup like the 00/MEVI?
Nice very creative, although judging by the dyno is not too effective, but still cool idea. Having it the vi stuck open means top end should put out more power top end right? because according to the curve it reaches peak then just falls off completely.
I read that too. Keep in mind tho he said this is a temp setup and had the VI stuck open. I bet if the VI functioned he could break 195 whp maybe more
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2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Comp G
|3.5" Intake Bpi/R2C|Ram Air|3.4" Pulley|180* T-stat|Headers|Corvette Brakes|SSC Lowering|KYB|LEDs everywhere|GXP parts|SE Parts|
Want a Plug and Play Harness for your Emanage Ult/Blue? CLICK HERE!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Thank you Dave. I love you Dave.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
...so i had to get towed out of a ditch last night...
I know you don't want to give us specifics, but what lower IM did you use?
For the life of me, I cannot find that thread where they have a picture comparo of the upper and LIMs
...
I think the defining qualifier of which setup (00VI vs 3.5IM) is better will be which one has the larger plenum volume. Is the 3.5IM a dual stage setup like the 00/MEVI?
If I remember correctly I think he would have used the 3.0 uim since the the 3.5 uim ports does not line up and will need some work
but who knows for sure he may he figured out something new to make the setup work other easier
__________________ My Cardomain _ _Maxima runs 13.4@109
Dyno:? whp & ? wtq
Nitrous PB: 13.4@110mph
All Motor PB: 14.0@99mph
3280lb with driver, full trim, rims, spare, jack, fluids, etc & notorized proof
Looks like it turned out pretty good. Its a positive increase however you slice it.
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2003 Nissan Maxima SE - Majectic Blue 6MT HLSD Meridan Edition, Titanium Editon-Dynoed 206.61whp and 219.54wtq...Stock 17 Degree Timing Advance*Apexi/Berk Short Ram Intake*Cattspeed Y-pipe*Cattman 2.5 B-Pipe*HKS Sport Exhaust*Cattman Ti FSTB*Progress RSB*ES Poly Front Sway Bar Bushings*HKS Grounding kit*Axxtion STS
Interesting. With the 00VI an auto would hit this peak power at redline but with this setup he's hitting it around 5300. Looks like this is best for lowend power and the 00vi is best for top end power. 40 hp at redline aint bad either. I'd like to what the power looks like with the VI functioning and with the ssim. Nice Job man.
Best thing to do is dyno w/it closed and then open, and set your opening point accordingly. The A33B ECU uses a 2-step process (1800 - 3600 closed), so in order to achieve that, you would need something more than just a simple single point RPM switch.
It would have been nice to see the runs overlaid.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
The VI is open at high RPMs when functional, so how would this provide more whp...
Yea I wrote that completely wrong, I meant if the VI worked, there would be a bigger gain low end and if he did the SSIM mod, I bet the top end would be held at a longer peak power. I must've ate some bad mushrooms or something cause everything I said goes completely against how it should work.
__________________
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Comp G
|3.5" Intake Bpi/R2C|Ram Air|3.4" Pulley|180* T-stat|Headers|Corvette Brakes|SSC Lowering|KYB|LEDs everywhere|GXP parts|SE Parts|
Want a Plug and Play Harness for your Emanage Ult/Blue? CLICK HERE!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Thank you Dave. I love you Dave.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
...so i had to get towed out of a ditch last night...
Neither does the dyno forums Thanks anyways though. Any word on where to download winpep so I can do that and be able to get corrected numbers? Also, during every run I have the IAT's written down from my obII, they seem to vary alot more than ambient temp inside the garage, would it be a bad idea to plug these in for the correction factors?
Quote:
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Best thing to do is dyno w/it closed and then open, and set your opening point accordingly. The A33B ECU uses a 2-step process (1800 - 3600 closed), so in order to achieve that, you would need something more than just a simple single point RPM switch.
Which is why I have an rpm switch pre-programed to only provide a ground (Or 12v if I so desired) for a 6-cylinder between 1800-3600, however I fail to see how on an auto I would be able to find the optimal activation point, since it will more than likely be below WOT 3rd gear.
When I had the 'oovi functioning on my 3.5 swap I couldn't notice a difference between 0-1800 with it on or off (MSD digital window), but hasn't it been speculated that this is just to reduce tire-spin and neck-snappedness for grandma's?
__________________
Gatorade on my keyboard FTL.
5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
I'd like to what the power looks like with the VI functioning and with the ssim.
Me too, but don't worry, it will be happening very shortly, I might even be posting up the graph of a butt dyno late tonight What I'd REALLY like to see though is a dyno of this on a 5-speed re: functioning and ssim'd.
Funny thing is, the operating software for the dyno and the 'regular' version they say to view the DRFs...same exact program. Only diff is when you put the config files in the WinPEP directory, it enables the MAKERUN area.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
The lower is off an a33B, an obscene amount of oil soaked rags and inside out tape need to be stuffed into the heads, than the heads are port matched using the 3.5 gaskets, than a shop vac and blow gun come in handy, and the 3.5 lower is port matched using the 3.0 gaskets, not the ideal set-up, but it's the only way and clearly worked well. it's converted to the returnless style fuel system and cable driven just like doing a 3.5 swap, the valve cover and coil pack issues suck the balls though, #3 is no longer a coil-on-plug, it has to be converted to a plug wire set-up, no misfires though, this could possibly be avoided if the timing cover was removed you might be able to use the 3.5 valve cover. The rear valve cover coil mount bosses must be eliminated (2 coils still sit snug though) Which creates three large holes that must be epoxied and the valve cover has to be off to clean out the metal shavings from the inside of the baffle. Also, the two coil packs that are in the rear are front 3.0 ones with the wire's swapped over from the rears, 3.5 ones may or may not clear.
I see a place for that phenolic gasket company to make some cash; specifically, 3.5 upper to 3.0 lower spacers, they could raise or tilt the upper half to clear the rear valve cover
Still my question is, is this effort worth the extra effort over an 00VI swap? I guess the answer to that would be what does an auto DE-K w/a y-pipe put to the ground...???
The lower is off an a33B, an obscene amount of oil soaked rags and inside out tape need to be stuffed into the heads, than the heads are port matched using the 3.5 gaskets, than a shop vac and blow gun come in handy, and the 3.5 lower is port matched using the 3.0 gaskets, not the ideal set-up, but it's the only way and clearly worked well.
I figured it would be something like this, wild stuff.
Still my question is, is this effort worth the extra effort over an 00VI swap? I guess the answer to that would be what does an auto DE-K w/a y-pipe put to the ground...???
In some ways it's easier than an '00vi though, or at least it's not really extra effort. As for the next thing though, that's all that's been running through my mind these past few days, considering this makes peak earlier, and the tourqe appears to be through the roof, having this done on a 5-speed with extensive dyno'ing of before, after functioning, and after ssim will probably be the only way to answer that, but I don't see that happening since I'm next trying to get my hands on yet another VI and see what that does, it's one that is unheard of and it's not a pathfinder one either, I'd say what it's on but they really are hard to come across without buying a whole motor and I don't want to risk someone scoffing one up when one finally becomes available, I will say however that it has dual throttle bodies and is cable driven and might even have an iacv mount and possible a direct fit onto a 3.0 lower!.
Regardless though from what I've seen I think that with an SSIM this will be superior than an '00vi in terms of peak, for those that like the numbers game, but that's not my thing. I really can't see an '00vi on an auto with just a full exhaust and nothing else making over 200whp, but with an SSIM I CAN see this doing it, easily actually, uncorrected under similiar conditions.
Regardless though tomorrow (I actually pulled the tranny tonight because I'm a complete ****ing retard and cost myself a bunch of time and money and made myself look like the retard that I am) It's getting a different tranny, an ssim, a non-leaky y-pipe, and an alignment. Dyno might not happen for a week or two though unfortunatly, but rest assured it will happen and I will have corrected numbers of all 3 overlaid.
Also, does anyone have any opinions on using IAT readings inputted for the correction factors? Will that totally fuxor things since instead of 66* for several runs they might be 76* and 86* for another run?
One more thing, I'm wondering what kind of effect the raised combustion temps from no EGR is having, I was really only able to find one similiar '00vi a/t dyno and it also appeared to fall off just as much after like 5750 maybe, I forget right now.
Still my question is, is this effort worth the extra effort over an 00VI swap? I guess the answer to that would be what does an auto DE-K w/a y-pipe put to the ground...???
Yea we gotta see this SSIM'd. There is a ton more power to be made above 5K, but you can already see the motor begin to appreciate the better manifold design and increased plenum volume. It should make more.
As far as all the hoopla with the coil bosses and all that stuff, I am gonna do a quick search now but why doesn't anyone use MSD coil ignition type systems on a Max? I feel like that would do away with a lot of the problems to do with IM fitments. But then you're getting into swap $$$... and sourcing parts isn't super easy...
One more thing, I'm wondering what kind of effect the raised combustion temps from no EGR is having, I was really only able to find one similiar '00vi a/t dyno and it also appeared to fall off just as much after like 5750 maybe, I forget right now.
You can check out my n/a dyno to compare
here is another when i went FI but still gives an idea of the curve with auto and 00vi. you can see the hp stay almost at peak till the end. gotta find other dyno graphs but the hp curve actually keeps going and stays up there till 6500.
One more thing, I'm wondering what kind of effect the raised combustion temps from no EGR is having, I was really only able to find one similiar '00vi a/t dyno and it also appeared to fall off just as much after like 5750 maybe, I forget right now.
The EGR function is inactive during WOT conditions.
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