My n/a project
08-04-2011, 09:31 AM
#1401
Found the culprit, here is the pics of chips STA509A burned.
I couldn't focussed more, don't know why. My daughter played with my camera and changed the setting.
I couldn't focussed more, don't know why. My daughter played with my camera and changed the setting.
Last edited by doublea; 08-04-2011 at 09:50 AM.
08-04-2011, 09:51 AM
#1402
I found an e-bay seller who has 10 of those chips, but there is the following code on my ECM chip, SK4n24 on the first line and underneath STA509A.
The e-bay seller sell the STA509A but on the first line of the chip it is SK 1001. Does anyone know if it's the same chip ?
Here is the e-bay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-STA509A-/250...ht_4265wt_1360
What I want to do is order at least 2 chip and solder a socket so if it burned again I will just need to pop the chip and voilą.
The e-bay seller sell the STA509A but on the first line of the chip it is SK 1001. Does anyone know if it's the same chip ?
Here is the e-bay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-STA509A-/250...ht_4265wt_1360
What I want to do is order at least 2 chip and solder a socket so if it burned again I will just need to pop the chip and voilą.
08-04-2011, 09:55 AM
#1403
AA,
If you can find the parts, I can replace the chips for far less than AvPro. How does the board look? Is it badly burned? If there is any soot, try to wipe it off the board if you can. If you replace the chips, there is no guarantee that it will work. There could be other, non-visible damage to internal traces on the board or other ICs. If I were you, I would try to get a different ECU. At least it looks like you found the cause of your headache.
08-04-2011, 10:03 AM
#1404
I found an e-bay seller who has 10 of those chips, but there is the following code on my ECM chip, SK4n24 on the first line and underneath STA509A.
The e-bay seller sell the STA509A but on the first line of the chip it is SK 1001. Does anyone know if it's the same chip ?
Here is the e-bay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-STA509A-/250...ht_4265wt_1360
What I want to do is order at least 2 chip and solder a socket so if it burned again I will just need to pop the chip and voilą.
The e-bay seller sell the STA509A but on the first line of the chip it is SK 1001. Does anyone know if it's the same chip ?
Here is the e-bay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-STA509A-/250...ht_4265wt_1360
What I want to do is order at least 2 chip and solder a socket so if it burned again I will just need to pop the chip and voilą.
I like the socket idea.
08-04-2011, 10:12 AM
#1405
I'm going to buy the socket from a local electronic outlet store.
I'll keep you posted on the outcome. It's probably going to take a week to get the chips and solder it.
A big Thanks again to Kevlo911, ajm8127 and all the others who contribute to help me with the build. It's been a long journey and without all the helps I received here it wouldn't had been possible to do this, so I'm very thankful to all of you guys.
Cheers and talk you soon.
AA
08-04-2011, 10:20 AM
#1406
Ok, got the point. I just ordered the 2 chip from an e-bay seller in Texas @ 6.95$ each.
I'm going to buy the socket from a local electronic outlet store.
I'll keep you posted on the outcome. It's probably going to take a week to get the chips and solder it.
A big Thanks again to Kevlo911, ajm8127 and all the others who contribute to help me with the build. It's been a long journey and without all the helps I received here it wouldn't had been possible to do this, so I'm very thankful to all of you guys.
Cheers and talk you soon.
AA
I'm going to buy the socket from a local electronic outlet store.
I'll keep you posted on the outcome. It's probably going to take a week to get the chips and solder it.
A big Thanks again to Kevlo911, ajm8127 and all the others who contribute to help me with the build. It's been a long journey and without all the helps I received here it wouldn't had been possible to do this, so I'm very thankful to all of you guys.
Cheers and talk you soon.
AA
http://www.chemtronics.com/products/...r=3&m=2&id=123
08-04-2011, 11:00 AM
#1407
One last thing. I can't remember if there is conformal coating in that area of the board or not, but you need to remove it before you solder. Chemtronics makes a pen that removes most types of conformal coatings:
http://www.chemtronics.com/products/...r=3&m=2&id=123
http://www.chemtronics.com/products/...r=3&m=2&id=123
Thanks again.
08-04-2011, 03:16 PM
#1409
Thanks again.
08-05-2011, 07:52 PM
#1410
http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761
Use that. But I dunno if that will = the amps it takes to burn out the chip. Might have to check the chip specs and see the max amps it can take.
Use that. But I dunno if that will = the amps it takes to burn out the chip. Might have to check the chip specs and see the max amps it can take.
08-06-2011, 05:47 AM
#1411
http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761
Use that. But I dunno if that will = the amps it takes to burn out the chip. Might have to check the chip specs and see the max amps it can take.
Use that. But I dunno if that will = the amps it takes to burn out the chip. Might have to check the chip specs and see the max amps it can take.
08-06-2011, 06:52 AM
#1412
Yes you can but I don't like the way the car warms up without the IACV and you will have a CEL. You can adjust the TB set screw to about 800rpm and that should be enough, but I still prefer the IACV for the bumps at low rpms for the AC and power steering.
08-06-2011, 07:06 AM
#1413
Does by passing the coolant lines come to the same as removing the IACV ?
08-06-2011, 07:19 AM
#1414
I did this all on my car, it takes it better on the 5th gens for some reason...maybe cause of the IM...or my grounding kit...have no real idea. Its really not that bad, car won't stall.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 08-06-2011 at 07:21 AM.
08-06-2011, 07:43 PM
#1416
You can get a mini blade fuse holder and mini blade fuses for pretty cheap.
The thing is the problem with the IACV was a manufacturing issue that has more than likely been resolved. I wouldn't think that the new IACV you got is going to give you the same problem.
08-07-2011, 06:27 AM
#1418
The FSM states that the nominal resistance of the IACV is 22 ohms per coil. 14 volts / 22 ohms = 0.636 amps. A unipolar stepper motor will energize two of the coils at once so the minimum current drawn will be no less than about 1.3 amps through the red wire that feeds power the the IACV. I think a 2 or 3 amp fuse put inline with the red wire before it spilts to the two sets of coils in the IACV would be sufficient to prevent further failures of the STA509A MOSFET array in the ECU. Page EC-327 in the 2000 FSM has a diagram of the IACV circuit.
You can get a mini blade fuse holder and mini blade fuses for pretty cheap.
The thing is the problem with the IACV was a manufacturing issue that has more than likely been resolved. I wouldn't think that the new IACV you got is going to give you the same problem.
You can get a mini blade fuse holder and mini blade fuses for pretty cheap.
The thing is the problem with the IACV was a manufacturing issue that has more than likely been resolved. I wouldn't think that the new IACV you got is going to give you the same problem.
08-08-2011, 06:15 AM
#1420
Reading your suggestions teach me good, are you an electrical or electronic engineer ? I have a vey basic knowledge of electronics that I have learned thru year but I'm quite impress with the logic shown here. I can certanaly do that so I'm going to order the mini blade fuse holder and a few mini blade fuse. Now that you make me think about the IACV, I remember that the IACV in place before it blew was almost brand new, I'd like to confirm what was wrong with it, as I understant there are 2 possible causes, the IACV gasket that fail and the step motor that go south. I'm going to remove the TB and take a look at the IACV, I remember there was a coolant leak underneath the car, at some point I thought it was the coolant line on the engine side that was leaking, maybe I was wrong and the leaking it from the IACV, going to check that this morning.
08-08-2011, 06:16 AM
#1421
Waiting for parts to arrive so I can fix that ECM. in the mean time, I have a Mishimoto oil catch can that I want to install, should i hook the hose on the front valve cover vent or in the rear where the PCV is, I think there is probably more oil thru the PCV, but now what
if I hook both to the catch can, I can just put a T adaptor before the catch can. What do you think ?
Edit: I took of the TB and IACV, I wanted to figure what could have cause the ECM to blow. The was no coolant in the TB and the gasket on the new IACV is fine and everything was torque to spec. Then what cause the ECM to blew, if you remember I was able to start the engine 3 or 4 time with the initial IACV ( it was a brand new IACV ), the engine was running crap but was still running. People agree that there is 3 cause for the ECM failure:
1- Coolant get into TB ( bad gasket )
2- Step motor has a short circuit for whatever reason ( draw too much amp or short circuit )
3- Electric motor mount that go south and blow the ECM
In my situation there was no coolant in the TB ever, either for the first IACV or the replacement one, btw both where brand new and from the first engine start I had a new IACV on the TB but engine was running crap. The electric motor mount have been deleted before I put the rebuild engine back into the car, so that eliminate this possibility. I have checked the continuity on the IACV harness/plug and nothing there, would it mean that the ECM blew the last time I shut off the engine 4 1/2 years ago ? I don't recall starting the car back then and having the rpm shooting all over. At that time I had the old TB /IACV and the electric motor mount but they where disconnected? It's really hard to figure out, and I don't want to guess, otherwise the ECM is going to blow again. One of the possibility I have to check is if one of the step motor on the 2 new IACV has a short circuit, that's all I can figure out. I will put some mini blade holder/fuse at the ECM level, but let say the fuse blow, then there must be a short circuit somewhere but where ?
if I hook both to the catch can, I can just put a T adaptor before the catch can. What do you think ?
Edit: I took of the TB and IACV, I wanted to figure what could have cause the ECM to blow. The was no coolant in the TB and the gasket on the new IACV is fine and everything was torque to spec. Then what cause the ECM to blew, if you remember I was able to start the engine 3 or 4 time with the initial IACV ( it was a brand new IACV ), the engine was running crap but was still running. People agree that there is 3 cause for the ECM failure:
1- Coolant get into TB ( bad gasket )
2- Step motor has a short circuit for whatever reason ( draw too much amp or short circuit )
3- Electric motor mount that go south and blow the ECM
In my situation there was no coolant in the TB ever, either for the first IACV or the replacement one, btw both where brand new and from the first engine start I had a new IACV on the TB but engine was running crap. The electric motor mount have been deleted before I put the rebuild engine back into the car, so that eliminate this possibility. I have checked the continuity on the IACV harness/plug and nothing there, would it mean that the ECM blew the last time I shut off the engine 4 1/2 years ago ? I don't recall starting the car back then and having the rpm shooting all over. At that time I had the old TB /IACV and the electric motor mount but they where disconnected? It's really hard to figure out, and I don't want to guess, otherwise the ECM is going to blow again. One of the possibility I have to check is if one of the step motor on the 2 new IACV has a short circuit, that's all I can figure out. I will put some mini blade holder/fuse at the ECM level, but let say the fuse blow, then there must be a short circuit somewhere but where ?
Last edited by doublea; 08-08-2011 at 08:11 AM.
08-08-2011, 07:26 AM
#1422
Ok got it done, I took the outlet from the coolant pipe and hook it up to the coolant pipe inlet. Now do I have to close the 2 nipples on the IACV ? I would think so just to make sure nothing get in there, dirt, spider or whatever small creature's looking for a home. Lol My car will be stored in the heated garage from nov thru april.
08-09-2011, 10:59 AM
#1425
I just bought a new welding station, I got it for 60$ from a local electronic store, at first I was looking to get an Hakko, but the dealer is too far from my home and it's twice the price for almost the same thing. I don't remember the brand I got but it has the digital temp setting, it can heat up to 480F. The iron has a small tips and look to be of good quality. I purchase a 10 pin socket that I will solder to the board and snap the Mosffet chip in there, got a couple of fuse holder to protect the circuit for future fail. I also got a magnifier lamp to see what I'm doing cuz my eyes are no longer what they use to be. Lol Now I just wait for the Mosffet chip to arrive.
08-16-2011, 05:40 AM
#1429
I have found one locally, the guy want 100$ which is quite reasonable, he didn't confirm if it had the TC but it was for a 2001 auto. Unless you get one for 50$ I think I might be ok but I'll confirm later today.
08-16-2011, 05:47 AM
#1430
I unsoldered the chip yesterday, but I need to do some repairs on the board. What I did it gently bent the burned chip right to left until the pins broke, then I unsolder each pin one at a time, but one of the pin came off with 1/8" of circuit contact, so I need to get some very thin wire and make some bypass to repairs this. At this point I'm close to reach my incompetency level but it's too late to go back so I'll do my best and if that doesn't work I may send it to one of the guy on the forum and see if he can fix it for me. I want to have 2 ecu working and programmed for my keys, if anything goes wrong I will just need to swap the ECU which I will carry in the car for any eventuality. I'm working on this today, will post fresh pics later.
08-29-2011, 02:13 PM
#1434
I'm going to send the ECU to get fixed asap, I have unsoldered the chip but there is a bit of repair to do on the circuit board and time is something I don't have any more. I have started school a week ago in order to get my licence as a construction general contractor. I need to concentrate on study every night sometime past midnight and I take this very seriously, so it is first thing first. I'm going to send the ECU this coming friday to one of the guy that was refer to me. Once this is done, my friend Michel with is a Nissan tech will come back with the Consult II computer to do all the programming and updates. I want to finish the assembly of everything that I can do and the rest will be perform by GMS a local reputable shop ( muffler, windshield, alignment, suspension adjustment, coolant leaks etc. ) Body works and paint will be perform by another shop witch has not be determined yet. Once I have my general contractor licence in november, I'm going to be very busy with projects and will not have the free time I use to have for the last 6 months. I already have done close to 5000 hours on this project and it is now time that it come to an end. I will still have stuff to do but that will mostly be cosmetic, sound system etc, stuff that can be done within few hours or on week-end.
I guess that's it for now.
Cheers
AA
I guess that's it for now.
Cheers
AA
08-30-2011, 04:32 PM
#1436
Thanks
AA
09-12-2011, 04:38 AM
#1437
I did some more work over the week-end, I'm now just waiting to ship the ecu. The rear end is finished beside the second muffler. I'll post pics of the diamond plating of the rear underneath, later tonight.
09-12-2011, 06:33 PM
#1439
The referred guy, to repair the ECU has not return my called or answered my e-mail yet so still waiting to ship the ECU. If I don't hear back within a day or two I'll call another company. I hope to get this fix asap.