DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Hehe I figured it probably was just an illusion...


Put it in 5th gear, get K to step on the brakes for you as hard as she can and then try it. Or an impact gun if you can borrow one...


There'll be other things that need to come off... axles, starter, disconnect all the rad hose, coolant lines to the heater etc, PS and alternator can be taken off once the engine's out unless you're really bored lol... and yeah why not drain all the fluids. You know about the 2 water plugs on each side of the block (plus the rad)?


If you don't already have one, a digital multimeter. You can probably find a basic one that will measure various voltages, resistances, currents, check circuit connectivity etc and not be too expensive. I forget what kind of stores you got down there but places like Autozone, Canadian Tire, maybe Home Depot etc would have them. Here's an example of what I'm talking about... Basic multimeter for $30.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=547254

Here you go, for FUTURE reference, no sense in putting the tranny back in.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

im still using the a32 frankencar midpipe. what is the difference in the de-k berk midpipe or something like it. see post #1 that setup has got to go. im thinking i need something straight out of the TB then work my way to the battery area. then work on a custom cold air intake setup with the filter behind the fog light, since i removed mine. i would just need to remount the odyessy battery.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

This one guy brought me an '02 max for some work and I LOVED his intake set-up. It was basically your typical WAI w/the large K&N, except he had two seperate things of ducting feeding cold airto the area near the filter and he also had some heatsheilding so that the hai was sectioned off to the openings of the duct work. I wish I had pics, it definitly fed straight up cold air to it without the nasty bends that typical cai's have, or the radiator heat issue of injens types.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

yeah injen was pretty but was lame, mine got stolen so i hope someone is having fun with the hot radiator air intake system by injen they stole off me.

yeah i just need a straight pipe coming out the tb then cut the whole and run another pipe maybe something like they used for the place racing design or cattman cai. is there any ebay cai that are not injen style. i had a look yesterday but only saw those, will have a look again. a custom job will be so much cheaper if i can find the right bends.

im a bit confused though, do i need a de-k intake or de ? im setup for de, but the de-k piping has one less nipple ?? i might could make this work, and add in a bit of extra piping to get the filter sucks from right behind the fog light. (mine are removed).. I know I know ... what if it rains. no biggy for drag racing only. drive around with hot air setup

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...QQcmdZViewItem

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

found an old photo at owners place of the VQ30DE-K I bought. Cost me $800 NZ or $530USD. Lets hope this old barnyard DE-K will get up and go !

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

In searching for DE-K threads I came across a nugget. Source was from an 00VI swap thread, but when swapping in a DE-K and using the 4th Gen ECU, you will need something to activate the VIAS (controls the switchover point for the Upper Intake Manifold) Best activation point (dandymax did lots of testing)
5000 rpms

what can you use to activate the switchover point (Vias)
- summit rpm switch
- greddy emange ultimate
- V-AFC II
- MSD #8969 (digital)
- ARWS @ www.bakerelectronix.com
- Harlan

Harlan vs Summit debate or reviews: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=363079

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

YES SIR! But you have EU don't you? As far as I remember, the EU can be used to activate the VIAS.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

I contacted JeEvE for some input but found some information searching around he provided after doing his DE-K swap.

Many people are asking what needs to be done to swap in the motor. Ill list everything I can think of.

-splice A33 injector plugs into A32 harness
-extend A32 TPS plug to reach A33 throttle body to reach
-remove A33 IACV and fab cover plate under throttle body
-plug swirl valve vac (if calli)
-plug throttle body coolant lines
-mount EVAP on DE-K manifold and hook up vac
-swaped over the EGR, MAP, EVAP solenoids and run correct vac lines
-plug any other open VAC sources on A33 manifold
-use A32 exhaust manifolds and EGR setup w/ A33 guide tube

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

Most of which is found in any of the other 00VI swap threads such as my own or PMOHR's when using all 5th Gen parts. Also, don't forget to set-up the VIAS using an RPM Switch, a VAFC or VAFC-II, or EB or EU. Lots of options.

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

VAFC (1st version) can't activate the VIAS

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

Mine does. You're thinking SAFC I think. VAFC= Vtec Air Flow Converter. Use the Vtec wires for the VIAS. SAFC= Super Air Flow Converter if I'm not mistaken.

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

Please share... it wouldn't work for me, the VAFC-II did

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

dats right ! EU wired and ready to go, thanks dandymax !

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

R.I.P. VQ30DE
1997-2007
173,105 miles

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

im going to see if the DE front valve cover fits on the DE-K. If it fits and the coils feel like the go on right. does anyone see a problem here ? I like the way the DE front valve cover looks vs the DE-K. I believe dandymax said I wouldnt have any worries using the DE 3 front coils. swapping the front valve cover would make it easy to mount them in. just mechanically speaking even if it fits would i be over looking something ?

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

Are you talking about the actual metal valve cover or just the little plastic thing?

Jmeister, I don't know what to tell you. Mine works just fine.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

metal cover, going out to have a look at it now. and post back. you know on the DE-K the oil cap has to sit up like its on some sort of throne, on the DE it way low and hiding.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

You should be able to switch them up Chris.

PS got your PM's, will try to get some pics/diagrams done for you in the next day or two.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

That thing looks clean, I'd have no worries about it firing up, vq's are near bulletproof anyways.

Appears to be cali spec, remove the swirlvalves & there actuator rods ftw imho. Yeah it adds some work but better now right?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

yeah dan, i just fitted the DE front valve cover (if thats what you call it) on the DE-K. Fits the same, just looks different. If it turns out that one of the DE-K coils are bad for example, at least I know all my DE coils are good and I can swap the DE front valve cover onto the DE-K and will have a perfect way to mount the coils. (DE-K 1 10 mm screw, DE 2 8mm screws).

With the DE front valve cover mounted I popped the DE coils in. They fit and feel just like they did on the DE. When you pull them out though they just come out.

With the DE-K coils when you pull them out you can feel a hair of resistance and almost hear a pop or something when they come out. Redneck theory makes you think they fit better or something.


I dont know much about coils at all. I dont recall the mileage they are supposed to get like change them every 100,000 miles for example. But I thought since mine are 10 years old I would give the DE-K ones a shot and see how it goes.

DE-K A33 Redtop


DE A32 Blacktop on DE-K


Both front valve covers weighed in at 7 lbs. each, regardless of the DE-K oil cap barstool it sits on, lol !

And just like you said dan, the DE coils clip right in to the DE wiring connectors.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

its crazy new zealand spec. scroll through this thread
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ap+for+dummies

if your talking about the removing the swirl valves from the LIM, its done, even had the holes welded.

if there are more swirl valves then that sucks !

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

would there be an any sort of number on the engine to find out what year car it came out of ? In New Zealand the VQ30DE-K was used from 2000 to all the way to the 6th Gen Maxima thinking 2004.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

sniplet from http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php which is in serious need of updating.

VQ30DEK Motor Swap
Description: Engine taken from the 2000-2001 Maxima/I30. The swap is generally known to be cheaper and easier to complete versus the VQ35DE swap. The main mechanical pro over the VQ35DE is that it is overall a smoother engine. The obvious con for choosing a DEK over a VQ35 is less power. An EXCELLENT replacement for a blown VQ30DE for the less mechanically inclined. Search "DEK" on forums.maxima.org to find scattered details on the swap.
Cost: You can easily find a DEK on www.car-part.com for $400 with low miles. Be ready to dish out more money for the RPM switch and other items required to complete the swap.

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

I very much approve of this thread, as when my tired old DE gives out this will be the swap I'm doing (if I'm so inclined to do such a swap).

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

would anyone care to comment on this statement ?

all else being equal a DE with 00VI has better top-end power potential than a DE-K due to the DE intake cams having 8 degrees more duration (later intake valve closing).

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

It's da troof. DE intake cams > DE-K

The other reason is that on a de equipped car, when you add the larger de-k injectors and use an afc to take fuel away you are also adding timing.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

There's a serial number stamped on the top of the block at the rear where it mates with the bell housing. Dunno if you'll be able to tell the year directly off that number though...

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I didn't have to do this with my 00VI swap. Didn't find it necessary. It doesn't have a whole lot of slack to work with, but it's not stretched tight or anything. I even had it that way back when I used a 4th gen TB and it was extended out further due to the adapter. Didn't change anything when I swapped a 5th gen TB on.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Should be a metal vin tag somewhere near the rear header also, maybe only a us-cpec thing though

10th digit = year

t='96 u=97 v=98 etc etc and than I *think* it starts back at "A" again? dunno?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

im not seeing this de-k wiring harness/connector on the DE. Looked around on the DE wiring but didnt see anything like it?


close up

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

If you can't find anything for it, don't use it. I know there's a few harnesses on my DE that aren't connected to anything. Leave it in just in case then when you start-up, if you don't need it, cut it.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

point taken ! in that same area an o2 sensor comes up through there in the same area on the DE but nothing like this that i can see now on the DE in the DE-K photo.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

It's there, it goes to your camshaft pos sensor & oil-pressure. BUT, for some reason I want to say that on the 4th gen it doesn't have a subharness and comes directly out of the rear injector loom, that's a definite IIRC though.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Had a good look around under the car today, the wiring in photos #71 is on the DE, instead of a connector its just wired into everything.

should be able to use my DE wiring and connect everything up. everything looks the same around the oil pan area, its just that connector up top on the DE-K thats not the same on the DE

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Clutch

kev doing the swap had a look at my clutch, he asked where the nearest trashcan was? said this clutch was wasted, lol ! in photo below that is basically some charcoal looking film over metal, there was nothing there but some stains and crumbs?



also said oil was getting on the flywheel area causing it to get slippery, overall said it was all a mess. so im going to get a new clutch, and have the flywheel machined. im thinking once this is fixed up my 60 fts should be sweet, i knew something was going on in that area but didnt have enough mechanical knowledge to know. seeing first hand was cool.




in photo above (VQ30DE) we had a look on the VQ30DE-K it looked like a brand new engine, not soaked in oil. this is good ! it was good to get in and have a look at where the oil dripping on to the concrete under the car was coming from.

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

Nice. When does the DE-K go in? Are you done with all the prep work?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

well i have to deal with the transmission which is going to slow things down since i got to order (as for as I know) my clutch kit from the states, ive also got to get the flywheel machined. so it could be as long as two weeks. im not sure what to do about the input shaft bearing in the transmission, im pretty sure its a mess.

as soon as i get that sorted then we will just put the de-k in !!

ACT-NM1-HDMM Clutch Kit
http://www.modacar.com/products/Nissan/Maxima/MODACLS/

can anyone recommend a reliable place online to buy this clutch ? these days im a bit out of the loop on where to buy our mods ??

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

Why not buy from that website?