All MotorAll Motor Advanced Performance. Talk about Engine Swaps, Internal Engine work. Not your basic Y pipe and Intake Information.
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Okay, I know there are threads and I have been reading but I'd like some personal advice. I have the 5th Gen UIM and LIM, modded 5th Gen TB, and the RPM switch is in the mail. Is there anything I am missing? And would my best bet for TQ specs be to buy a Chilton Manual for the 2000-2003 Maxima?
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Eh- KSport, 00VI, Custom 2.5 catback, VAFC, Ralco RZ STS, and that's it.
You'll also need IACV adapter plate (to use 4th gen IACV since it sounds like you're not using the 5th gen and I'm assuming you're using an IACV since most do). You'll also need fittings for the manifold for EVAP and IACV, hoses of all sorts, etc.
I wish your site was up too. Haha I do have the blocked off IACV, but as far as fittings and hoses are concerned most of everything looks to be on there but I will buy spares. I have some pictures, low quality but maybe someone can tell if it's what I need.
The fittings and hoses are needed because the stock ones are not adequate. The two fittings on the manifold where the throttlebody bolts up need cut off and new fittings put in their place. You'll want a (3/8"?) 90 degree bend one up top for the EVAP and then a (1/2"?) one on the side for the IACV (assuming you are using the 4th gen unit). If you are using the 4th gen IACV, do you have the adapter plate? You'll also need all new hoses. Do you have the proper bolts?
Most importantly, do you have a ride to the store if you need parts? If not, arrange one, you WILL make at least one trip no matter how prepared you think you are.
Florida Gators: (10-0) | CSU (62-3) W | Troy (56-6) W | Tenn (23-13) W | Kentucky (41-7) W | LSU (13-3) W | Arkansas (23-20) W | Miss St (29-19) W | Georgia (41-17) W | Vandy (27-3) W | SC (24-14) W | FIU | FSU
I haven't had hosting and simply haven't gotten around to getting it. If you have space you'd like to donate, I'll use it, for sure. I just need access to my own folder or something to put it on. Doesn't take up a lot of space and probably doesn't use a ton of bandwidth either.
Ill see if I can do that. Its set up as a dedicated BF2 server right now, but being unranked, its hardly used. Ill work on setting up apache and stuff if I have some time!
Florida Gators: (10-0) | CSU (62-3) W | Troy (56-6) W | Tenn (23-13) W | Kentucky (41-7) W | LSU (13-3) W | Arkansas (23-20) W | Miss St (29-19) W | Georgia (41-17) W | Vandy (27-3) W | SC (24-14) W | FIU | FSU
Ill see if I can do that. Its set up as a dedicated BF2 server right now, but being unranked, its hardly used. Ill work on setting up apache and stuff if I have some time!
Well, new update: I got the rear valve cover off and replaced it with the DEK. Now, are there any tricks to getting the fuel rails and LIM off? I can't for the life of me get the hoses off of the FPR. Everything is unbolted and ready to go but those hoses are holding me back. Any suggestions besides cutting them?
Alright, not a problem. For the rewiring of the injectors, do I need to do all six or just the rears?
You're replacing all six injectors, why would you only rewire the rear three?
Quote:
Originally Posted by XAugusta MoonX
I can't for the life of me get the hoses off of the FPR. Everything is unbolted and ready to go but those hoses are holding me back. Any suggestions besides cutting them?
Just cut them and replace the entire lines. Honestly, you should be doing this anyway. It'll save you lots of headaches.
Okay, so just to make sure, I can use the 4th Gen harnesses I just have to rewire them? Because Ionly have three cut harnesses from a 5th Gen for the rear coilpacks. And as far as the lines are concerned, you got it. Haha thanks for the help, I really do appreciate it. This is quite the job by myself.
Hey give me a call so I can help I forgot the other three clips for the injectors. You dont have to change the wire for the coils just the plugs for the injectors and the 00vi plug you can use a 4th gen injector plug being as your going to cut them off anyway. but call me and i can tell you most everything about the idel air hook up as im the only one that know how that set up works as other have done it differant
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under drive pulley____________Duel fx35 Projectors
He just explained it to me. Basically, he blocks off a port on the TB and created a custom adapter that hooks up to the midpipe. I'll take some pictures once I get my camera to work.
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Eh- KSport, 00VI, Custom 2.5 catback, VAFC, Ralco RZ STS, and that's it.
Alright, well I just talked to 95Turbo and he told me he was gonna send the other three injector plugs as well as the IACV adapter so I think I'm good to go. I PM'ed StephenMax just in case I do have any problems. My girlfriend lives in Austin so it shouldn't be too much of a problem if I have to go that route.
Good to hear everything is working out for you. You'll love the feel of the car once it's all done and working properly Do you have anything to tune with since you are using 5th gen fuel? Also, what intake setup are you going with?
I just bought an RPM switch. I know I'll run rich so once I get the money I'll be getting an Apexi VAFC (most likely if not the NEO). Yeah it would be a waste of 40 bucks so I already have the RPM switch but hey. Any help with wiring that up would be useful too. Such as which plug do I use because I have two and also what should I set it at to open? 4K? My intake setup is just HAI. I have a K&N filter.
I just bought an RPM switch. I know I'll run rich so once I get the money I'll be getting an Apexi VAFC (most likely if not the NEO). Yeah it would be a waste of 40 bucks so I already have the RPM switch but hey. Any help with wiring that up would be useful too. Such as which plug do I use because I have two and also what should I set it at to open? 4K? My intake setup is just HAI. I have a K&N filter.
You say you have 2 plugs? I'm assuming you mean on the VIAS itself, in which case you want the black one; should have a red wire and a green wire. The brown one is for the swirl valves (did your LIM have swirl valves?). I can't remember off the top of my head which wire is which (12v and ground), I may be able to email you the RPM switch page from my site if you give me your email. It's real simple, hardest part is routing the wiring to the engine bay.
HAI is fine, it's unfortunately what I am running right now (issues with using stock pieces means I can't use them, and winter is coming so a CAI is a no-no even though I hardly drive the car right now being in school).
Yes, I'm assuming you could. Lowering the fuel pressure would effectively do the same thing; you might be able to return it to about the stock levels of fuel delivery. I would worry about the pressure being TOO low though. I'm not sure if it can be too low? Just one of those things I worry about instinctively. Maybe someone else could chime in on that.
Today's the day everything starts going back in. So, if anyone knows which is the ground and which is the power on the plug to open the VIAS, please let me know ASAP. Also, what RPM is best to open? Any other little useful tips are also greatly appreciated!
Today's the day everything starts going back in. So, if anyone knows which is the ground and which is the power on the plug to open the VIAS, please let me know ASAP. Also, what RPM is best to open? Any other little useful tips are also greatly appreciated!
I can let you know EXACTLY which wires are which this evening. I am going home to work on my own car, and ironically enough to do wiring work with my VIAS (I just switched from an RPM switch to a VAFC 2 and they operate differently).
I have found personally that 5000 is best for a good, smooth crossover (which is how it should be).
I have a VAFC2. I havent played with my VAFC2 in a while so I'm going a bit off memory right now. I have it set to open at 5100 and it closes at 5200 .I think the reason you cant set it lower than that is because of your RPM points and the Hi/lo point where they split up. If you understood that...? cuz I had mine set at 4500 before and actually YOU were the one that told me that was WAY too early cuz I felt that "boost" of power when it crossed that point. Now it pulls steady all the way till the end