All MotorAll Motor Advanced Performance. Talk about Engine Swaps, Internal Engine work. Not your basic Y pipe and Intake Information.
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I have a VAFC2. I havent played with my VAFC2 in a while so I'm going a bit off memory right now. I have it set to open at 5100 and it closes at 5200 .I think the reason you cant set it lower than that is because of your RPM points and the Hi/lo point where they split up. If you understood that...? cuz I had mine set at 4500 before and actually YOU were the one that told me that was WAY too early cuz I felt that "boost" of power when it crossed that point. Now it pulls steady all the way till the end
Yeah, it should pull steady, you shouldn't be able to feel it cross over. I just redid the wiring for my VIAS/VAFC 2 since the old wiring (RPM switch supplied ground vs. the VAFC 2 which supplies a 12v) wasn't "compatible." I haven't driven the car at normal power levels in like 2 weeks, so maybe my butt dyno is off, but the car felt sluggish 5100 RPM setting on the VAFC 2 and I am pretty sure the wiring is correct, seeing as how I pulled all but the correct wire out of the car to avoid confusion. I dunno, my butt dyno is probably off.
Anyway, back on topic: to the OP, I found the page from my site that says about how to hook up the VIAS. The left pin (facing the VIAS from the front of the car, should be a red wire) is the 12v and the right pin (should be green) is ground.
Sounds good to me, thanks. I'm still waiting on the other 3 injectors and the IACV adapter. I have a question though (yes another one): I do have the EGR block off plate, do I need to take off the EGR guide tube? And if so, how and what do I do with the other end of it?
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Eh- KSport, 00VI, Custom 2.5 catback, VAFC, Ralco RZ STS, and that's it.
Im not going to use an EGR either, I just plan on popping a cap on there. Not sure the config yet, but Ill find something at the hardware store to make it work!
Options: Use a cap of some sort. Weld it. Use a wine cork(my favorite).
Florida Gators: (10-0) | CSU (62-3) W | Troy (56-6) W | Tenn (23-13) W | Kentucky (41-7) W | LSU (13-3) W | Arkansas (23-20) W | Miss St (29-19) W | Georgia (41-17) W | Vandy (27-3) W | SC (24-14) W | FIU | FSU
Hehe a wine cork sounds like a good idea. Welding is not an option although I wish it was. I wouldn't mind the availability of a nice TIG welder. Either JB Weld or something to that extent is what I'll probably need to look at. Getting at that EGR guide tube is going to be a real pain though. It seems that Nissan likes to make it hard for us to take apart our cars... what a shame...
It was soooooo fawwking hard to get the 4th gen EGR tube off, it was like half a turn from the top of the engine bay, then I went under the car to complete the turn, and repeat many many times....
Florida Gators: (10-0) | CSU (62-3) W | Troy (56-6) W | Tenn (23-13) W | Kentucky (41-7) W | LSU (13-3) W | Arkansas (23-20) W | Miss St (29-19) W | Georgia (41-17) W | Vandy (27-3) W | SC (24-14) W | FIU | FSU
Haha I'll be sure to be on top then. (innuendo!) Anyway, I also had an idea. What about just blocking the EGR tube from the top and not removing it? I'm sure I could fab something up to it.
I dunno if that is what I recommend, but I only had myself and a plain ol wrench.... and it had to be done, so I sucked it in, banged and wedged over that hard line that was blocking one of the bolts to the guide tube and eventually it came out. But I never want to do that again....too much for my psyche...hah!
I am not running EGR either, but all of my EGR equipment is still currently in place. All I did was put the block-off plate on the manifold and put another block-off plate where the guide tube would normally bolt to the EGR valve. It's still a pain to get the 4th gen EGR guide tube off, but once that's off just block off the system from both ends rather than worrying about removing a bunch of stuff (unless you want everything off the car, then you can put a bolt in the hole on the rear exhaust manifold once the bigger tube is off).
Im not sure what the configuration is, but if there are threads on the outside of the guide tube attachment, you could use a steel threaded cap. If they're on the inside, try a bolt like Tatanko said.
Florida Gators: (10-0) | CSU (62-3) W | Troy (56-6) W | Tenn (23-13) W | Kentucky (41-7) W | LSU (13-3) W | Arkansas (23-20) W | Miss St (29-19) W | Georgia (41-17) W | Vandy (27-3) W | SC (24-14) W | FIU | FSU
I just test fitted the UIM and it's not going to fit without that EGR guide tube being removed or at least hacked off. So, my plan is to hack it off and cover it with a steel cap. There are no threads where I will be cutting it off so JB Weld is my best friend I guess. I'm so ready for those other injectors to get here so I can be done with this. I need my car back bad. Oh, and is the IACV required? Because if not, for the time being I may go to a salvage yard and try to find some injector plugs for temporary running.
A nickel underneath the old bottom bolt fit's so insanely perfect it's not even funny. remove the tube, hack the tube right above the bolt and leave that little bit of tube in the hollow bolt, than put the nickel in the manifold and tighten the bolt/hacked tube back down.
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5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
Still having some problems. This is getting to be more than I expected. I wish my camera worked so I could post some pics. I am reading from Ceaser's thread about hose hookups but I'm still running into some problems. Do I need the EVAP canister purge? And basically, I'm still waiting on the other 3 plugs and the IACV adapter. Again, is the IACV adapter completely necessary? If not, I'm going to either mod my old plugs or find some at a junkyard cause I need my car done before Friday afternoon. Also, i got a VAFCII. I have read the diagrams so I should be good to go with that. I do not have a wideband 02 but that will come in time. How should I go about tuning?
Don't try to tune much without a wideband and some way to READ the wideband's signal (i.e. the displays you can buy for them, datalogging, etc.). As far as hoses go, I wish I had my desktop here so I could upload the diagrams from my website.
Essentially you should have 5 places for ports on the manifold stock: one on the passenger's side end of the main chamber of the intake manifold (should be sticking straight up), which I recommend using for the brake booster; you have 2 on top of the manifold right in the middle (one small, one big), which can be used for whatever (vacuum sources for anything you need, i.e. EGR, FPR, etc.); then 2 near where the throttlebody bolts on, the one on top I used for EVAP and the one on the side for the IACV. Since you are using a "port" on the bottom of the throttlebody for IACV, you can use that other port for whatever also. The ports are all pretty much the same so you can use them as you see fit (whichever one is closest to whatever component needs to see vacuum, for example).
The IACV adapter is necessary to run the IACV. It's not a physical possibility any other way. The only other way to run the car for you right now would be to plug up the port on the bottom of the throttlebody you're using for the IACV and adjust the throttle plate to be slightly open for idle purposes, which I would use as a last resort, personally. Then you could get the plugs from a junkyard if you wanted to and fire the car up with a crapload of extra fuel and a non-working VIAS if you didn't have time to get the VAFC hooked up
EDIT: Unless you plan on removing all the EVAP equipment, hook it all up or you will throw codes.
Tatanko, you're my hero. Anywho, do I just relocate all the EVAP stuff then? Also, what size are the bolts that connect the TB to my IACV "port" as you put it? I've ended up buying so many and none of them work. 7 x 16 mm. I'm thinking 7 x 20 mm but since I haven't had any luck yet, I just want to make sure.
Tatanko, you're my hero. Anywho, do I just relocate all the EVAP stuff then? Also, what size are the bolts that connect the TB to my IACV "port" as you put it? I've ended up buying so many and none of them work. 7 x 16 mm. I'm thinking 7 x 20 mm but since I haven't had any luck yet, I just want to make sure.
My EVAP equipment is all sort of just on top of the engine It's not really bolted to anything. Stock-ish locations though.
The IACV port? That is custom is it not? Isn't your IACV port on the underside of your throttlebody? I think 95turbogxe did that on his own, so you'll have to ask him about it. Although you'd think I know since I helped him figure it out over the phone
Haha yeah, I heard. No, it's not that. I just need to know what size bolts are used to hook up the stock coolant thing (I don't know what else to call it) to the TB. I'm a little upset with Charles. He was supposed to overnight the parts to me and to no avail. Not here.... I need my car up and running before Friday afternoon and I'm cutting the deadline really close.
Haha yeah, I heard. No, it's not that. I just need to know what size bolts are used to hook up the stock coolant thing (I don't know what else to call it) to the TB. I'm a little upset with Charles. He was supposed to overnight the parts to me and to no avail. Not here.... I need my car up and running before Friday afternoon and I'm cutting the deadline really close.
Stock coolant thing to the throttlebody? Only thing I can think of that you are talking about would be the coolant lines that run through the throttlebody that you need to loop together since the 5th gen throttlebody doesn't use coolant at all. Those you just buy whatever fitting is the right size (1/2"?).
I have already outlined what would be necessary for getting your car running without his "overnighted" parts above, if need be. It's not optimum, but you would be able to drive it.
Now I'm getting a little mad. Everything is hooked up except for the injector plugs and IACV. He won't answer his phone. Tatanko, see if you can give him a call because I'm about ready to get involved with PayPal.
Now I'm getting a little mad. Everything is hooked up except for the injector plugs and IACV. He won't answer his phone. Tatanko, see if you can give him a call because I'm about ready to get involved with PayPal.
I don't have his phone number, I only ever gave him mine and he called me. That was probably about 7 or 8 months ago now, and I never saved it. That's a shame, he seemed like a good guy.
That's what I thought too.... I managed to mod the 4th Gen clips but I also need to know what to do with the coolant line that connected to the old TB. I'm waiting for a startup and hoping to God this works.
That's what I thought too.... I managed to mod the 4th Gen clips but I also need to know what to do with the coolant line that connected to the old TB. I'm waiting for a startup and hoping to God this works.
The coolant lines need looped together. Rather than attaching them to a throttlebody, you simply connect them to each other (using a fitting that is barbed on both ends, for example).
What are you doing for idle? Did you open the throttlebody? If not, it won't idle. To avoid frustration, double-check all vacuum lines, connections, etc. at least twice before you go to start it up. How did you modify the stock 4th gen clips?
Can't get her to start. Is it possible that the 5th Gen injectors are flip flopped as far as pos and neg are concerned? I cut the black casing around the injector plugs and ground down the orange until it fit inside of the 5th Gen injector. I triple checked all of my hoses. I ended up just blocking the coolant line. Is it possible that that's the reason?
Got it to start... My silly self forgot to put the fuse for the fuel pump back in. I ended up busting a fuel line though......... Any thoughts for clean-up? Oh goodness....
How did it run? Also, until you figure out routes and how the coolant flows, I would loop them rather than block them off.
As far as clean up, you just need to let it it evaporate and then hose it down when it's dry and use degreaser. Will probably require you to let it sit overnight. Ironically enough, same thing happened to me when I did my swap. The first time I finally took it out of the garage one of the lines popped off the fuel rail because I hadn't tightened it down enough.
Haha it ran like a fuel line was leaking. I patched it all up and am going to wait until the morning for a restart. I wired up the RPM switch but I want to be sure I did it right. Red is power. Black is ground. White is tach. Now, I hooked the grey up to Vias because it says "normally provides a ground for a circuit and will open upon reaching selected RPM limit." I also have a yellow that says "normally open and provides a ground for a circuit upon reaching the selected RPM limit." Does that sound right or should I hook to yellow to the ground for the Vias?
It keeps stalling on me. I have a massive rear valve cover leak though. I may as well start over..... looks like this weekend is a no-go for me... Any ideas on the stalling? Or is the valve cover that's stopping me?
From what you are saying...the yellow would be pointless. If the VIAS has its own ground then that yellow is useless. But...wait...then so is the grey. I have no idea...if I find out anything Ill let you know.
Ok, it looks like the yellow is used for light signaling. IE, a signal light for when it switches.
Florida Gators: (10-0) | CSU (62-3) W | Troy (56-6) W | Tenn (23-13) W | Kentucky (41-7) W | LSU (13-3) W | Arkansas (23-20) W | Miss St (29-19) W | Georgia (41-17) W | Vandy (27-3) W | SC (24-14) W | FIU | FSU
The yellow is what you want hooked up, not the gray. Ask anyone who has done the swap and used an RPM switch It is also like that in all RPM switch write-ups, but you may not have been able to find any of them. The yellow gets hooked up to the green (ground) and then you provide a 12v signal (which can even be from the battery, but I powered it using the same source as my red 12v wire for the RPM switch).
Do not even bother trying to fix anything else until you get a good seal on the valve cover, there's no point. Did you re-use the old gasket or something?
No, I bought a new one it just wasn't tight enough I guess. FSM said 16-18 ft/lb if I remember correctly. I figured it out though (I think) the pos and neg are switched on the 5th Gen injectors. Therefore, I wasn't running any gas on the forward bank. I ran out of daylight and the mosquitoes are killing me so I'm calling it quits for now. I retightened everything, decided to run the coolant lines properly and need to get the TB on, etc etc. Another day... another dollar...
Florida Gators: (10-0) | CSU (62-3) W | Troy (56-6) W | Tenn (23-13) W | Kentucky (41-7) W | LSU (13-3) W | Arkansas (23-20) W | Miss St (29-19) W | Georgia (41-17) W | Vandy (27-3) W | SC (24-14) W | FIU | FSU
No, I bought a new one it just wasn't tight enough I guess. FSM said 16-18 ft/lb if I remember correctly. I figured it out though (I think) the pos and neg are switched on the 5th Gen injectors. Therefore, I wasn't running any gas on the forward bank. I ran out of daylight and the mosquitoes are killing me so I'm calling it quits for now. I retightened everything, decided to run the coolant lines properly and need to get the TB on, etc etc. Another day... another dollar...
Get the fuel injectors figured out before you mess with the valve cover, then. The valve cover is really hard to mess up if you do the correct tightening sequence at the correct torque values like you're saying you did. If you need to know how to wire the injectors, I can't help you. Get a hold of gtr_rider about that, he may know.
5100 RPM setting on the VAFC 2 and I am pretty sure the wiring is correct, seeing as how I pulled all but the correct wire out of the car to avoid confusion. I dunno, my butt dyno is probably off.
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