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3.5 swaps re: 51 PSI

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Old 08-12-2007, 07:16 PM
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3.5 swaps re: 51 PSI

I should've done this earlier, but here goes.

Adjusting fuel pressure to 51 PSI is unnecessary.


Running at stock 3.0 fuel pressure with a vacuum source attached is PERFECTLY fine. The presumption was that it would improve fuel atomization and because stock A33B's ran @ 3.5 bar (~51 PSI) that A32 3.5 swaps should use that pressure as well. In retrospect, that was bogus. All running 51 PSI will do is worsen pre-existing cold start issues due to too much fuel at startup (simultaneous fuel injection during startup doesn't help) and may contribute to slightly worse gas mileage since the actual a/f is so far off the target a/f that the ECU corrections in closed loop are more coarse. Even if MPG is unaffected, for all intents and purposes, it's not as essential as I (or others) once thought. The only time raising fuel pressure above stock (43 PSI @ WOT) would be viable or necessary is if you wanted to indirectly advance ignition timing be adjusting a/f via something like a V-AFC or EB or are making so much power that the injectors can't keep up. You could either raise fuel pressure, get a higher capacity fuel pump, or install larger injectors in such a case.

There's still a distinct advantage to converting to a "returnless" fuel system as opposed to the stock FPR mounted on the rail though. By forcing fuel to return to the tank before reaching the fuel rail it stays somewhat cooler, improving power and reducing fuel loss to evaporation. It's hard to quantify exactly how much it helps, but it does to some degree. The theory is very sound and the farther the AFPR is from the engine, the greater the effect (the greatest effect being with the FPR in the tank). IMHO, the ideal fuel setup (for those with 3.0 ECU's) is a remote-mounted AFPR @ stock pressure (unless trying to advance timing indirectly as mentioned earlier) with vacuum applied to it.


Comments or questions?





Note: Only applies if using 3.0 ECU.
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Old 08-12-2007, 07:36 PM
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I think it should be in the stickys.
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Old 08-12-2007, 09:16 PM
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^ Ran stock 3.0 specs w/vacuum right from the start after hearing nismology casually mention it in a few threads, my s/t fuel trims are closer to zero than any 3.0 I've checked.
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:25 AM
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I been known dis cuz
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:40 AM
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I didnt ^ !! i'm gonna go turn it down right now mayn! thanks!
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Old 08-13-2007, 02:52 PM
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ive never changed my pressure .. i thought this was common knowledge
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Old 08-13-2007, 02:54 PM
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This thread is for those that don't know. Both stickies mention 51 PSI.
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chillin014
I didnt ^ !! i'm gonna go turn it down right now mayn! thanks!
lol, I told you that in another thread!
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I been known dis cuz
I've known for a long time as well. Doesn't do n00bs any good if nobody says anything about it though.
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
lol, I told you that in another thread!
lol i swear to god i was not ignoring your advice, i do not remember that though. or maybe you said it and i thought you were one of the only guys doing something different, but i didnt want to stray from what everyone else was doin.

okay i'm done whoring the thread.
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:48 PM
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yeah its know that you will run rich with the 3.5 injectors why cut them up to 51psi and make it worse. But hey Good looking out for the ones who dont know!
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Old 08-13-2007, 07:53 PM
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Noob question.... you said...
Originally Posted by 95turbo gxe
you will run rich with the 3.5 injectors why cut them up to 51psi and make it worse.
So does reducing the fpr pressure slighty below 40psi would be helpfull?
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:18 PM
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I would leave it at 43 PSI like stock. FWD VQ35 injectors are not that much bigger than A32 injectors (270cc vs. 259cc).
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nismology
I should've done this earlier, but here goes.

Adjusting fuel pressure to 51 PSI is unnecessary.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...49&postcount=8
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Old 08-14-2007, 05:51 AM
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I have mine set at 75psi, but then, I'm not using the stock injectors. Anything near 50psi on these, and it runs really rich.
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Old 08-14-2007, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by tavarish
I have mine set at 75psi, but then, I'm not using the stock injectors. Anything near 50psi on these, and it runs really rich.
Unless you're trying to advance timing indirectly, why are you @ 75psi?
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Old 08-14-2007, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by tavarish
I have mine set at 75psi, but then, I'm not using the stock injectors. Anything near 50psi on these, and it runs really rich.
and y r u not using stock injectors? Do u plan on boosting soon? check ur PMs on the other forum and reply as soon as u get a chance
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Old 08-14-2007, 02:55 PM
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You adjust the fuel pressure according to the injector/ecu combo you're running. If you're using the A33B ECU and the A33B 270/315cc injectors of course you would also want to use the 3.5 BAR fuel pressure. If you're using the A32 ECU the fuel pressure is basically left for you to decide what it should be based on your setup.
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Old 08-14-2007, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SR20DEN
You adjust the fuel pressure according to the injector/ecu combo you're running. If you're using the A33B ECU and the A33B 270/315cc injectors of course you would also want to use the 3.5 BAR fuel pressure. If you're using the A32 ECU the fuel pressure is basically left for you to decide what it should be based on your setup.
Understood. To everyone that knows better, awesome. This thread is for people that have done the 3.5 swap using the A32 ECU or people thinking of doing it that are going by the stickies and are running unnecessarily high fuel pressure.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Unless you're trying to advance timing indirectly, why are you @ 75psi?
Because for the fuel to spray correctly in the injectors I have (07 Range Rover SC), I have to set it at 75 psi, or higher. Range Rovers stock pressure is about 80-90psi, so I'm running right at the stock flow rate of a range rover. I have NO CLUE what these things actually flow at, and I haven't gotten them flow tested, but I'm willing to bet they flow much more than stock, as I'm running pretty rich. The only reason I put them in is because they were direct plug and play, had similar resistance (a little higher), and they were free.

I'm running a custom MAF, 3" ID piping, gutted out IM, and I ordered my wideband and Emanage to help tune. Car runs great, but backfires like crazy when I let off the gas. Kinda cool.
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Old 08-15-2007, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tavarish
... and I ordered my wideband and Emanage to help tune. Car runs great, but backfires like crazy when I let off the gas. Kinda cool.
BAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:30 AM
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finished my swap yesterday without the AFPR and was about to post this and found this thread...
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:33 AM
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51 psi doesn't bother me, besides I rather run rich then lean
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MaxBlack97
51 psi doesn't bother me, besides I rather run rich then lean
In that case why not 75 PSI?
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Old 08-16-2007, 02:40 PM
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Yes, but if my memory serves right, 51 PSI without tune is disgustingly rich ... like pig rich, Jay-Z rich, Bill Gates rich.

OK maybe I exagerated ... but it runs a little rich to the point where you are just wasting gas.
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Old 08-16-2007, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by scrhale
Yes, but if my memory serves right, 51 PSI without tune is disgustingly rich ... like pig rich, Jay-Z rich, Bill Gates rich.

OK maybe I exagerated ... but it runs a little rich to the point where you are just wasting gas.

It does. I figured it out once I ran the WB and was trying to make corrections with SAFC. I had 40-50% correction just to get it to 13.0 range. Once I changed the FP, I was able to lower the idle back down to 650-700rpm and NOT have to gas the motor every morning.

Otherwise, the car ran well with high FP.
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Old 08-16-2007, 03:29 PM
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What else improved with the tuning?? I'm doin mine soon! Hopefully. On topic, right?
Originally Posted by Stabone
It does. I figured it out once I ran the WB and was trying to make corrections with SAFC. I had 40-50% correction just to get it to 13.0 range. Once I changed the FP, I was able to lower the idle back down to 650-700rpm and NOT have to gas the motor every morning.

Otherwise, the car ran well with high FP.
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Old 08-18-2007, 02:01 PM
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It's funny but I had my pressure at 51psi until I read this thread. Cold starts sucked and required a little feathering of the gas. So I reduced the pressure to 34psi at idle and now, it's even harder to start my car.
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Old 08-18-2007, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by THT
It's funny but I had my pressure at 51psi until I read this thread. Cold starts sucked and required a little feathering of the gas. So I reduced the pressure to 34psi at idle and now, it's even harder to start my car.
Then raise the FP until you find a sweet spot. Results may vary people.

The primary purpose of this thread is that there's no logical basis in running 51 PSI on the dot just because A33B's run that FP. That's all.
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by nismology
I've known for a long time as well. Doesn't do n00bs any good if nobody says anything about it though.
haha these VQ guys I tell ya..
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Old 08-31-2007, 03:04 AM
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I'm making a parts list for a swap so it's good I read this.

We have the choice to run a "T" and then to the FPR which then returns to the tank or...? I'm not sure what you guys are saying. Are you saying use a lower (stock) 43psi or are you saying run it some other way?

Someone please clarify this.

Thanks
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Old 09-02-2007, 11:54 AM
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You will have to run the tee either way. The problem was that people assumed we had to run a fuel pressure regulator on the return line and bump the pressure up to 51 PSI instead of running at the stock 43. NISMO states that it is a waste and creates havoc.
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Old 09-02-2007, 05:46 PM
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I also like to recommend putting the FPR on the firewall and tee the fuel return BEFORE the fuel rail. This in a sense converts the system to returnless and will not send heated fuel back to the fuel tank.
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Old 09-02-2007, 08:04 PM
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^ ?



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Old 09-02-2007, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I also like to recommend putting the FPR on the firewall and tee the fuel return BEFORE the fuel rail. This in a sense converts the system to returnless and will not send heated fuel back to the fuel tank.

Whats the differance if it's heated or not?
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Old 09-02-2007, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by spdfreak
Whats the differance if it's heated or not?
Originally Posted by nismology
By forcing fuel to return to the tank before reaching the fuel rail it stays somewhat cooler, improving power and reducing fuel loss to evaporation.
From the first post....
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