Digital Alchemy

iTrader: (4)

Finally finished the DEK Swap got everything hooked up been driving for about a week. The 2 problems that I am having now are at start up. 1 the car is not starting properly. you can here it turning over like it's trying but its takes a little while. the second problem is when i finally do get it started, unless i rev the throttle a couple of times it will shut down, before the swap on a cold start the engine would sit at around 1500 RPM and then slow drop to about 700. now its going straight to 700, i've tried adjusting the idle, and i finally got the tps sensor set properly but its still doing it. what else could be wrong??????

elemax

iTrader: (17)

What IAC setup are you using? Is the starting problem the same if it's a cold start or heat soaked?

Digital Alchemy

iTrader: (4)

I'm using stephenmax's IACV plate for the 4th gen IACV, right now there is a kink in the hose running from the midpipe to the IACV, so that might be part of the problem right there...not enough air getting to the IACV. It's the same whether it's cold or hot

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Fix the kink, that should help, also, try locating the iacv in a place where the smaller hose runing to the manifold is as short as possible. but you may have to live with it. The main problem is the IACV not being located as close as possible to the airstream like how it is on the usim. I recently worked on someone's car and his was BAD, hot or cold, to the point if it was my car I would have driven the thing into a tree. It appears some people have it worse than others, and the only way around it is to use an adaptor between the IM and throttle body that has a direct mount for the IACV, there are only like 5 in existence, when I had my hands on one to install on someones car I downloaded the software at Emachineshop.com and priced it out, it was in the $500 range to have one made, he bought the last one around and installing it made the problem go away.

Digital Alchemy

iTrader: (4)

followed the instructions on tatanko's website, and ran a line under the 00vi to the nipple on the passenger side. right now im trying to find some type of hose with a u bend that i an connect to the midpipe to eliminate the kink. i think i might cut one of the orginal hoses, and connect the old hose to the new hose to eliminate the kink.

Curt

iTrader: (27)

Hmmmm. My hose from the IACV to the UIM is probably close to 2 feet long, and I've never had a problem. The start-up and warm-up cycles are just the same as they were before the 00VI installation (i.e., cold start is immediate, RPM's jump right to the 1400-1500 range, and then gradually creep back down to the 650-700 RPM level.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

3/8" dia hose? Which nipple did you run it to?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Yeah I looked into this quite a bit, it appears some people have it worse than others for some unknown reason.

matty

iTrader: (54)

I keep telling people, the IACV needs to be CLOSE TO THE MANIFOLD. You cant reduce the air down from the iacv to 3/8" then let it travel 2 feet, then reduce once again before it enters the motor. Its just comman sence it wont start the same as it was. Curt is the only one that ive seen NOT to have a problem.

The IACV was made to be on the manifold. It was made that way for a reason.

-matt

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

I didn't have a problem either for a year or so, my line was 3/8", maybe a foot and a half long, but went into a 3/8" nipple on the VI.

Also, I just installed a VI swap 2 weeks ago using a remote IACV, and it starts fine.

Digital Alchemy

iTrader: (4)

ok i got the kink out of the hose. what i did was took a piece of nylon tubing with a u bend and ran it from from the intake then use a piece of pipe to connect to the existing tube connected to the IACV. now I only get a hard start when the engine has cooled down for a couple hours. here is the weird thing. the RPM's will actually go up when the car warms up. any ideas??!?!??!