Aftermarket Ring and/or Piston Question
04-08-2007, 04:53 PM
#1
Aftermarket Ring and/or Piston Question
Well I have an oil burning problem caused by bad piston rings and Nissan is refusing to cover under warranty because I don't have proof of two oil changed because I did it myself.
I have been thinking about having a place (not a Nissan service department) replace the rings. I don't really wanna use OEM rings since there is obviously a problem with them. I have been doing some research and...
Stillen does have Cosworth "performance piston rings" for $134
Would those actually be better than stock?
They also have Cosworth pistons for $1,392.00.
I figured since im gonna have the pistons out anyway....
Would those be worth it? Benefits? Gains?
They also have the heavy duty connecting rods for $1,434.24.
If i get the pistons do I need the new rods?
So, should I buy...
Rings
Pistons
Pistons and rods
I will admit that I don't have a lot of knowledge when it comes to engine internals.
Rings and pistons - http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=COSWNPIST1&c=PE
Rods - http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=COSWNRODS1&c=PE
I have been thinking about having a place (not a Nissan service department) replace the rings. I don't really wanna use OEM rings since there is obviously a problem with them. I have been doing some research and...
Stillen does have Cosworth "performance piston rings" for $134
Would those actually be better than stock?
They also have Cosworth pistons for $1,392.00.
I figured since im gonna have the pistons out anyway....
Would those be worth it? Benefits? Gains?
They also have the heavy duty connecting rods for $1,434.24.
If i get the pistons do I need the new rods?
So, should I buy...
Rings
Pistons
Pistons and rods
I will admit that I don't have a lot of knowledge when it comes to engine internals.
Rings and pistons - http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=COSWNPIST1&c=PE
Rods - http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=COSWNRODS1&c=PE
04-09-2007, 08:21 AM
#3
Take Nissan to court.
how many miles is on the car, and when were these oil changes done by you?
how far apart?
both consecutive, or separated by a change from a shop?
all you need to do is provide something on a sheet of paper that says you changed it on zzz day and yyyyy mileage with xxxxx oil.
otherwise, there is absolutely no way they can refuse warranty on it.
how many miles is on the car, and when were these oil changes done by you?
how far apart?
both consecutive, or separated by a change from a shop?
all you need to do is provide something on a sheet of paper that says you changed it on zzz day and yyyyy mileage with xxxxx oil.
otherwise, there is absolutely no way they can refuse warranty on it.
04-09-2007, 11:53 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Take Nissan to court.
how many miles is on the car, and when were these oil changes done by you?
how far apart?
both consecutive, or separated by a change from a shop?
all you need to do is provide something on a sheet of paper that says you changed it on zzz day and yyyyy mileage with xxxxx oil.
otherwise, there is absolutely no way they can refuse warranty on it.
how many miles is on the car, and when were these oil changes done by you?
how far apart?
both consecutive, or separated by a change from a shop?
all you need to do is provide something on a sheet of paper that says you changed it on zzz day and yyyyy mileage with xxxxx oil.
otherwise, there is absolutely no way they can refuse warranty on it.
this thread isnt about that....my 9 page thread in the 5th gen forum covers all that.
04-09-2007, 01:09 PM
#5
Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 154
I would go with a set of Eagle rods with ARP 2000 series bolts for $600
a set of Mahle pistons for $835 with rings OR get a set of ZGS (Zero gap second) rings.
Then get yourself a high quality machinist who can bore and hone your cylinders to according to the ring manufacturers specifications for roundness, taper, and bore finish AND angle. The last two being very important to a good ring seal and long life.
If you want to see some quality machine work look at this guys work,
" http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Larryscivic/Larrys_Civic.htm"
His name is Larry Widmer and he is very, very good at what he does.
I've already contacted him about getting some engine work done. He is in the process of creating some of his own piston designs to complement his head port work.
a set of Mahle pistons for $835 with rings OR get a set of ZGS (Zero gap second) rings.
Then get yourself a high quality machinist who can bore and hone your cylinders to according to the ring manufacturers specifications for roundness, taper, and bore finish AND angle. The last two being very important to a good ring seal and long life.
If you want to see some quality machine work look at this guys work,
" http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Larryscivic/Larrys_Civic.htm"
His name is Larry Widmer and he is very, very good at what he does.
I've already contacted him about getting some engine work done. He is in the process of creating some of his own piston designs to complement his head port work.
04-09-2007, 02:54 PM
#7
i thought i had the same issue as you. I almost went with HR pistons/Eagle rods but I ended up with just the 07 Altima rings which fits with no issue, if you plan on the spending the money for aftermarket pistons, I would go with some Arias XD. If you get aftermarket pistons, you should do rods also along with bearings and arp hardware. Good luck!
04-14-2007, 11:41 AM
#9
Aftermarket VQ35 piston options include but are not limited to JE, CP, Wiseco, and Arias. These are the manufacturers that i would recommend. I like Wiseco's ring set the best. They feature a gas nitrided top ring and a Napier-style phosphate coated 2nd ring. They sell it separately.
The Arias ED pistons are a zero-silicon forging and as such require the largest piston-to-wall clearance. Totally unnecessary for an n/a machine.
The rods i would recommend are eagle (for how cheap they are) and Carrillo a-beams (for how light they are).
Would definitely recommend the cosworth main and rod bearings while you're at it.
For cams, i say go big or go home if you're building up a motor. No JWT or R-tune bs. Nismo spec 1 or 2 or tomei 272's (or bigger).
Oh yea...rev-up oil pump.
The Arias ED pistons are a zero-silicon forging and as such require the largest piston-to-wall clearance. Totally unnecessary for an n/a machine.
The rods i would recommend are eagle (for how cheap they are) and Carrillo a-beams (for how light they are).
Would definitely recommend the cosworth main and rod bearings while you're at it.
For cams, i say go big or go home if you're building up a motor. No JWT or R-tune bs. Nismo spec 1 or 2 or tomei 272's (or bigger).
Oh yea...rev-up oil pump.
04-14-2007, 12:19 PM
#10
Originally Posted by nismology
Aftermarket VQ35 piston options include but are not limited to JE, CP, Wiseco, and Arias. These are the manufacturers that i would recommend. I like Wiseco's ring set the best. They feature a gas nitrided top ring and a Napier-style phosphate coated 2nd ring. They sell it separately.
The Arias ED pistons are a zero-silicon forging and as such require the largest piston-to-wall clearance. Totally unnecessary for an n/a machine.
The rods i would recommend are eagle (for how cheap they are) and Carrillo a-beams (for how light they are).
Would definitely recommend the cosworth main and rod bearings while you're at it.
For cams, i say go big or go home if you're building up a motor. No JWT or R-tune bs. Nismo spec 1 or 2 or tomei 272's (or bigger).
Oh yea...rev-up oil pump.
The Arias ED pistons are a zero-silicon forging and as such require the largest piston-to-wall clearance. Totally unnecessary for an n/a machine.
The rods i would recommend are eagle (for how cheap they are) and Carrillo a-beams (for how light they are).
Would definitely recommend the cosworth main and rod bearings while you're at it.
For cams, i say go big or go home if you're building up a motor. No JWT or R-tune bs. Nismo spec 1 or 2 or tomei 272's (or bigger).
Oh yea...rev-up oil pump.
Cosworth offers both the rod and main bearings in STD or Race also...
04-14-2007, 01:22 PM
#11
Originally Posted by jcy98maxse
Not to mention ARP hardware and head gasket along with maybe some valves/valve springs if you want to rev higher.
But you're right about the valvetrain. Dunno how i forgot to mention that.
Cosworth offers both the rod and main bearings in STD or Race also...
04-14-2007, 01:26 PM
#12
thanks for all the advice guys.
looks like this wont be cheap but if im gonna do it...i dont want to half @ss it.
might as well make it bulletproof for the future...guess i will need a HSLD tranny too.
i'll have a year in korea to save up.
i wanna be the first maxima VQ35 to do all this
looks like this wont be cheap but if im gonna do it...i dont want to half @ss it.
might as well make it bulletproof for the future...guess i will need a HSLD tranny too.
i'll have a year in korea to save up.
i wanna be the first maxima VQ35 to do all this
04-14-2007, 02:20 PM
#15
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
All this might hurt your auto/x'ing capabilities since it will favor the right side of the tach.
all auto-x i have run were in high 1st/low 2nd (bogging in 2nd on most turns). if i do this and raise the rev limiter, i can run in higher 1st and be in the peak power band. i should actually do better.
04-20-2007, 09:54 PM
#18
Originally Posted by soonerfan
and when i move back to OK next summer i plan on doing SCCA Club Racing (road course). ive grown out of auto-x and want to do something where my horsepower can be used.
You'll be able to do DE days and such, but you won't be class legal for anything.
05-06-2007, 10:23 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 210
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Where do you think you're going to do that in a Maxima with a modified engine?
You'll be able to do DE days and such, but you won't be class legal for anything.
You'll be able to do DE days and such, but you won't be class legal for anything.
05-08-2007, 09:05 AM
#22
Originally Posted by machinehead131
Do you really have to bore out the cylinder can't you just buy factory spec pistons and get new rings then hone them out?
Reasoning:
A. From the factory there are very slight variances in bore diameter and taper in each cylinder. So overboring is not only recommended to make sure each cylinder is true before putting it back together, it also allows you to dial in the piston-to-cylinder clearance with precision which varies depending on the piston's silicon content.
B. Re-honing a cylinder with crosshatch pattern still intact remove material that the rings could have used to break in. It could could potentially screw up the pattern in such a way that it could possibly hold too much or not enough oil on the grooves. I say leave well enough alone unless the cylinders walls are glazed, IMHO.
05-14-2007, 02:48 PM
#24
I have the oil problem too and warranty is almost up. If it doesnt get covered by my dealer I will be taking the same route as you. But since the problem is with the rings thats all I need to get correct? Your getting new pistons and connecting rods and all that but is it really necessary? Whats necessary to stop the oil consumption only? Its the rings correct? If so, thats all Im looking to get.
The ones you posted in your 1st post, will those work with OEM pistons and connecting rods or are they made for the other Cosworth pistons etc?
The ones you posted in your 1st post, will those work with OEM pistons and connecting rods or are they made for the other Cosworth pistons etc?
05-24-2007, 10:25 AM
#27
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 49
this is exactally what i want to do as well... i burn through oil like its my job but hopefully the 2,000 or so will come quite easily this summer. love the thread. answered all my questions.
How hard would it be to tear it down and build it back up yourself?
How hard would it be to tear it down and build it back up yourself?
05-24-2007, 01:32 PM
#28
How hard would it be to tear it down and build it back up yourself?
Get an FSM and read it until your eyes bleed, then, after you clean them up, do it again until green stuff comes out. After that, give it a week, and go back and see how much you retatined.
If you're on track, you'll read it again until your eyes bleed, then sweat, then tear.
Particularly the EM & EC sections.
05-24-2007, 01:42 PM
#29
Originally Posted by nismology
Nismo spec 1 or 2 or tomei 272's (or bigger).
Oh yea...rev-up oil pump.
Oh yea...rev-up oil pump.
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