eckounltd287

iTrader: (5)

i recently purchased the exedy stage 1 clutch kit, along with a fidanza flywheel. anything else i should replace while i'm under there?

VQ2fast4U

If everything is in working order all you need is the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and maybe upgrade to a SS clutch line.

GodFather

iTrader: (10)

"Rear main seal please", says GodFather.

eckounltd287

iTrader: (5)

PART NUMBER PLEASE GODFATHER

GodFather

iTrader: (10)

Site is working veeeeery slowly. And apparently, it's not working correctly. Go to that search box down at the left, type in "main seal". It'll pull up rear main seal for 32 bucks discounted.

EDIT* Nevermind, copy and paste isn't working, I couldn't get the site link to work, so I erased it. go to www.everythingnissan.com click catalogs tab, drill down by mechanical parts, and select your car make and year, type in search box "main seal" it'll pull up the right part.

-Peter-

nismology

iTrader: (8)

12296-31u20

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

on the rear main seal.

I'd also get a new slave cylinder. Upgraded clutch kits can be hard on old hydraulics...

brs2c

The slave cylinder if need be should definately be changed but you can usually tell by taking the plunger looking thing out and examining the seals. If they are not dried out and still plump with no rips or tears you should be fine.

eckounltd287

iTrader: (5)

should i get the whole slave cylinder or just the repair kit?

brs2c

The repair kit, unless there is hardly any difference in price, the rubber parts are really the only things that can really go wrong, .

Iilac

iTrader: (65)

I have read that the rear main seal should not be replaced if it is not leaking because to truly get a good seal on the rear main seal replacement is to take the oil pan off.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

You heard correct, I've found about 5-6 people on here, myself included, who made the mistake of not following the procedure in the fsm and had it leak worse than before, but it's worth it to do it properly and remove the upper oil-pan, Usually the upper oil-pan "c-shaped seal" starts leaking first anyways. More InfoAnother Thread And One More

spn350z

Things to look at while replacing clutch and having most of the drive train off the car:
1) Seals
Rear Main, transmission and drive shaft. I would replace them if car had high mileage (100k) on these parts to prevent going back and doing the work later. I would look at how "dry" these parts are for 4th gen. These cars are now going on ten years these is long life.

Caveat:
If replacing remain don't forget the rubber seal between oil pan and seal case. This seal looks like a C, p/n 11121-31U10 about $8. May help to avoid dropping oil pan and leakage in this area.

2) Bearing:
Check wear on transmission and diff as you disassemble. Don't over look CVs

My MAx has a build date of 12/97 with 140k miles. This is first clutch to be replaced and while checking thing out found out that outer CVs boots were gone and the inner were showing signs of age, drying out with deep cracks. No abnormal sounds but the boots were about half the price of a rebuilt axle. About $50/60 for boots vs $120 for rebuilt axle. Waiting for dissassembly for closer look at tranny and diff bearing. Car has never been driven hard, wife's car school teacher and all that jazz, but high mileage and age .... well this will be almost a complete drive train rebuilt.

If your paying for the work to be done, well the additional cost is mainly, should be, cost of parts. Most shops dissassemble the drive train taking off drive shafts and dropping tranny. So to replace axles,additional cost should only be cost of the rebuilt axles. Replacing rear main, should be cost of parts plus incremental cost to replace bearing.

If DYing I would rebuild my axles and spend the diff on good steaks. Standard rate is about three hours to rebuild axles and may take me about a day to rebuild.

Your case will be different show check these areas for signs of wear and need for replacements.