00vi idle problem need help ASAP!!
#1
00vi idle problem need help ASAP!!
We just put on my 00vi on my 99, using the dek lower, upper, fuel rail, injectors, tb, iacv.
Whenever i start the car, it won't idle at all and runs VERY rough anywhere under 4k+ rpm. If i keep pressing the gas, i can keep it running but the rpm jumps up to 4k whenever i hit the gas. If i keep it running anywhere below that, its extremely rough and even pops sometimes through the intake. It smells like gas from the engine bay. I don't belive i have a vacuum leak.
Anybody have ideas?
Whenever i start the car, it won't idle at all and runs VERY rough anywhere under 4k+ rpm. If i keep pressing the gas, i can keep it running but the rpm jumps up to 4k whenever i hit the gas. If i keep it running anywhere below that, its extremely rough and even pops sometimes through the intake. It smells like gas from the engine bay. I don't belive i have a vacuum leak.
Anybody have ideas?
#3
Originally Posted by matty
injector o-rings...find the source of the leaking gas then fix it. Its running rough because of that...
-matt
-matt
#4
Guys i'm about to go over to my friend's garage where my car is, and i really need to know if this 0-ring problem is fixable or if i need to buy new ones. I'm going to research but i really don't have any time because i need to take the whole manifolds apart now to fix the leak since its in the back 3 injectors under the upper manifold.
#5
Took injectors off with the fuel rail, and it does not look like anything is bad. I can't track down the problem, how do i know if something is wrong with my injectors or is it something else?
On the outer side of the fuel rail, i don't have any kind of dampener, i just attached a nipple there and hooked the fuel line just like the stock line was hooked up. I doubt thats the problem, but just throwing that out there.
I'm pretty positive that my fuel lines don't have any leaks, but i still smell fuel when the car is started and i'm attempting to keep it running with the gas pedal.
help a out!!
Edit: well...all the injectors spray. I took off the fuel rail and cranked the car and all injectors sprayed, so thats not it. How bout if i put a bunch of gasket sealant on the injector points where they seal and put it back, will that work?
On the outer side of the fuel rail, i don't have any kind of dampener, i just attached a nipple there and hooked the fuel line just like the stock line was hooked up. I doubt thats the problem, but just throwing that out there.
I'm pretty positive that my fuel lines don't have any leaks, but i still smell fuel when the car is started and i'm attempting to keep it running with the gas pedal.
help a out!!
Edit: well...all the injectors spray. I took off the fuel rail and cranked the car and all injectors sprayed, so thats not it. How bout if i put a bunch of gasket sealant on the injector points where they seal and put it back, will that work?
#6
[QUOTE=4x4Max]On the outer side of the fuel rail, i don't have any kind of dampener, i just attached a nipple there and hooked the fuel line just like the stock line was hooked up. I doubt thats the problem, but just throwing that out there.QUOTE]
I'm not sure what "the outer side of the fuel rail" is supposed to mean. Are you sure what you have on there is the FPR, and that you're not trying to make it run with a damper but no FPR? And I don't have a clue what the symptoms would be if you had the FPR but on the wrong end of the fuel rail and plumbed backwards. Stranger things have been done by guys.
Just a guess.
I'm not sure what "the outer side of the fuel rail" is supposed to mean. Are you sure what you have on there is the FPR, and that you're not trying to make it run with a damper but no FPR? And I don't have a clue what the symptoms would be if you had the FPR but on the wrong end of the fuel rail and plumbed backwards. Stranger things have been done by guys.
Just a guess.
#8
Uhhh...i dont have a dampner...i just JB welded a nipple on there and hooked it up like it should be hooked up. Is that the problem??? If so, how do i go about fixing it without spending more money that i don't have? Its running extremely rich and popping through the intake. I disconnected one of the plugged up vacuum sources on the manifold and it seems to run better for some reason, WITH a vacuum leak.
Here are some videos of how it is:
It IS idling in this video.
You can hear the popping in the middle of the video.
It's hard to tell from the video, but its running VERY rough. I took apart the injector rail and the o-rings look fine, and it seems like it seals up well.
Here's how it sounds from the exhaust side:
In the middle, i got the car to idle and stay at idle. After the video, i could have the car idling for a few minutes before dying, but its EXTREMELY rough like before.
Here are some videos of how it is:
It IS idling in this video.
You can hear the popping in the middle of the video.
It's hard to tell from the video, but its running VERY rough. I took apart the injector rail and the o-rings look fine, and it seems like it seals up well.
Here's how it sounds from the exhaust side:
In the middle, i got the car to idle and stay at idle. After the video, i could have the car idling for a few minutes before dying, but its EXTREMELY rough like before.
#9
we had trouble getting mine going as well. ( i want to make it clear that i dont know even 10% of what most of the all motor guys here know ) but my car sounded kinda like that.
we pulled each injector connector while it was running to see if it changed the way the car was running. it would try to die on the good injectors but on the two bad ones nothing changed.
then we took off the UIM and pulled the fuel rail and started the car and you could see 4 squirting fuel and 2 doing nothing. at that point my issues were solved. got two new injectors and everything ran correctly. not sure if you checked yours liked that ?
sorry i cant be of more help, but always willing to lend a hand !
we pulled each injector connector while it was running to see if it changed the way the car was running. it would try to die on the good injectors but on the two bad ones nothing changed.
then we took off the UIM and pulled the fuel rail and started the car and you could see 4 squirting fuel and 2 doing nothing. at that point my issues were solved. got two new injectors and everything ran correctly. not sure if you checked yours liked that ?
sorry i cant be of more help, but always willing to lend a hand !
#10
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
we had trouble getting mine going as well. ( i want to make it clear that i dont know even 10% of what most of the all motor guys here know ) but my car sounded kinda like that.
we pulled each injector connector while it was running to see if it changed the way the car was running. it would try to die on the good injectors but on the two bad ones nothing changed.
then we took off the UIM and pulled the fuel rail and started the car and you could see 4 squirting fuel and 2 doing nothing. at that point my issues were solved. got two new injectors and everything ran correctly. not sure if you checked yours liked that ?
sorry i cant be of more help, but always willing to lend a hand !
we pulled each injector connector while it was running to see if it changed the way the car was running. it would try to die on the good injectors but on the two bad ones nothing changed.
then we took off the UIM and pulled the fuel rail and started the car and you could see 4 squirting fuel and 2 doing nothing. at that point my issues were solved. got two new injectors and everything ran correctly. not sure if you checked yours liked that ?
sorry i cant be of more help, but always willing to lend a hand !
#11
Update: the car idles perfectly smooth at 1500rpm without the maf sensor plugged in. When its reved, it goes up to 2.5k and acts like there's a rev limiter right there, it just bounces off of it. Wtf???
#13
just a sugestion but have you tried out using a different MAF.. or even just checked to see if the injectors are dirty? either way its obiously a fuel problem.. no vacuum problems from what i can see.. which was my difficulty.. what codes are you running?
#14
Originally Posted by 97Maximus
just a sugestion but have you tried out using a different MAF.. or even just checked to see if the injectors are dirty? either way its obiously a fuel problem.. no vacuum problems from what i can see.. which was my difficulty.. what codes are you running?
TPS
IACV
EVAP(i think i fixed this one)
Driving the car to autozone and back was interesting to say the least....
#15
Im assuming you have your tps set correctly?? thats odd that you are getting a IACV code.. cause i was almost sure that you coulde use a 5th gen IACV with the 5th gen TB and it would work just fine no codes.. just out of curiosity have you checked to see if that is working correctly.. there is a procedure you can follow in the FSM to see..
#18
Would it be running rich with a major leak somewhere? plugs are black and there is a lot of smoke from the exhaust. Would that mean its rich, related to a vacuum leak?
We just took the gasket off and it is broken a little bit but we sealed it with silicone, so it shouldn't leak air.
We just took the gasket off and it is broken a little bit but we sealed it with silicone, so it shouldn't leak air.
#19
As I said in the other thread, you probably have a mixed leak. Air and fuel. Check to make sure the rings seal. If you're getting pops from the intake then change the setup. The look of it has leak all over it. Also, get a new gasket. Don't try to seal it, just get another one.
#20
the gasket pack for intake manifolds is a whopping 15 bucks from autozone (i know i bought them for my MEVI swap.) I would recommend just picking those up for piece of mind at the least that you know for sure that the gaskets are not the problem.
#21
Ok guys i took off my lower manifold gaskets off, and they have fuel all over the points where they're supposed to seal, in some cylinders only. Tomorrow i'm going to get new gaskets from autozone and see what happens...also found a big *** hole in that home-midpipe-intake thing...gonna seal that up with tape for now to see if the car works.....
hopefully at this time tomorrow i'll be hooking up my rpm switch....you guys are always welcome to throw out other ideas though, it might not even be the gaskets because there wasnt that much fuel and it might of not been past the seal points.
hopefully at this time tomorrow i'll be hooking up my rpm switch....you guys are always welcome to throw out other ideas though, it might not even be the gaskets because there wasnt that much fuel and it might of not been past the seal points.
#23
Originally Posted by 97Maximus
dont you have to retune these things after you convert over to the 5th gen injectors??
it sounds like you might have found your problem?
it sounds like you might have found your problem?
I REALLY REALLY hope we found the problem, i'll let you guys know tomorrow.
#24
Originally Posted by 97Maximus
dont you have to retune these things after you convert over to the 5th gen injectors??
it sounds like you might have found your problem?
it sounds like you might have found your problem?
Yeah the leak of fuel and the mig a$$ midpipe hole should fix thing. Since things are off, go back and make sure everything is correct. Injectors, LIM, all that. So you'll know that that is set up right.
#25
Now that you seem to be on the scent of a solution to the basic problem you've been experiencing, here's a suggestion:
You mentioned earlier replacing the damper on the fuel rail by JB Welding on a nipple. Certainly your decision, but speaking for myself, I wouldn't even start up my car with that sort of a shadetree, makeshift deal (I won't dignify it by referring to it as a repair).
Now that I've got your attention - just imagine for a minute the scene if that ever starts to leak. It'll have the same pressure on it as the injectors. Under the hood could be anywhere from a spray going all over the place, to a major fuel hemorrhage. And it'll probably happen at WOT when the fuel pressure is highest. That gas hits the hot exhaust and it'll be quite a flaming spectacle. Talk about going 60 MPH with your hair on fire. You'll be lucky if that's all that gets burned.
But then again, it's just a suggestion.
You mentioned earlier replacing the damper on the fuel rail by JB Welding on a nipple. Certainly your decision, but speaking for myself, I wouldn't even start up my car with that sort of a shadetree, makeshift deal (I won't dignify it by referring to it as a repair).
Now that I've got your attention - just imagine for a minute the scene if that ever starts to leak. It'll have the same pressure on it as the injectors. Under the hood could be anywhere from a spray going all over the place, to a major fuel hemorrhage. And it'll probably happen at WOT when the fuel pressure is highest. That gas hits the hot exhaust and it'll be quite a flaming spectacle. Talk about going 60 MPH with your hair on fire. You'll be lucky if that's all that gets burned.
But then again, it's just a suggestion.
#26
just got back from autozone, advance, and dealer. autozone and advance dont have the gaskets, and they can't order them. Dealer wanted 44 bucks EACH FOR A FREAKIN LOWER MANIFOLD GASKET!!!!! got the upper one for 8 bucks. No wonder so many people on this board hate how nissan is right now.
What the hell do i do? I'm not about to dish out a hundred bucks(that i DONT HAVE) for gaskets.
What the hell do i do? I'm not about to dish out a hundred bucks(that i DONT HAVE) for gaskets.
#27
Originally Posted by Curt
Now that you seem to be on the scent of a solution to the basic problem you've been experiencing, here's a suggestion:
You mentioned earlier replacing the damper on the fuel rail by JB Welding on a nipple. Certainly your decision, but speaking for myself, I wouldn't even start up my car with that sort of a shadetree, makeshift deal (I won't dignify it by referring to it as a repair).
Now that I've got your attention - just imagine for a minute the scene if that ever starts to leak. It'll have the same pressure on it as the injectors. Under the hood could be anywhere from a spray going all over the place, to a major fuel hemorrhage. And it'll probably happen at WOT when the fuel pressure is highest. That gas hits the hot exhaust and it'll be quite a flaming spectacle. Talk about going 60 MPH with your hair on fire. You'll be lucky if that's all that gets burned.
But then again, it's just a suggestion.
You mentioned earlier replacing the damper on the fuel rail by JB Welding on a nipple. Certainly your decision, but speaking for myself, I wouldn't even start up my car with that sort of a shadetree, makeshift deal (I won't dignify it by referring to it as a repair).
Now that I've got your attention - just imagine for a minute the scene if that ever starts to leak. It'll have the same pressure on it as the injectors. Under the hood could be anywhere from a spray going all over the place, to a major fuel hemorrhage. And it'll probably happen at WOT when the fuel pressure is highest. That gas hits the hot exhaust and it'll be quite a flaming spectacle. Talk about going 60 MPH with your hair on fire. You'll be lucky if that's all that gets burned.
But then again, it's just a suggestion.
#28
[QUOTE=4x4MaxWhat the hell do i do? I'm not about to dish out a hundred bucks(that i DONT HAVE) for gaskets.[/QUOTE]
Well then you won't have a working car. Go back to autozone and have them order them. Cost me $21 for all three gaskets (one which I didn't need).
Well then you won't have a working car. Go back to autozone and have them order them. Cost me $21 for all three gaskets (one which I didn't need).
#29
I went by advanced a few minutes ago while i was joyriding on my new d2's to verify they didn't have them, and I totally spaced that the gaskets you needed were for the 00-01 models, that was my mistake. However, i would think the lower IM gasket should be same as the 95-99, i mean it's bolting up to those heads afterall, and i know for a fact both advanced and autozone carry those (atleast around here they do.)
#30
both autozone and advance auto said they cant even order it for me, its apparently a 'dealer' item. I just filled both gaskets with silicone implants so i'm gonna see if the car works right tomorrow. I'm about to order feltpro gaskets online for 20 bucks shipped, all 3. The silicone implants are just to test and see if maybe it holds for a few seconds, then i'll know its the problem.
#31
You know they have those gaskets readily available at the dealer. Don't be cheap on a mod and if its your DD why keep trying different alternatives. Stop trying to reinvent the wheel.
#32
Originally Posted by speed racer
You know they have those gaskets readily available at the dealer. Don't be cheap on a mod and if its your DD why keep trying different alternatives. Stop trying to reinvent the wheel.
#33
What kind of stores do you have around you. You're sure you're asking for the correct parts right? lol. I don't understand that. Everyplace I went had the gaskets. Either order or in the store. Don't use silicone...come on.
#34
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
What kind of stores do you have around you. You're sure you're asking for the correct parts right? lol. I don't understand that. Everyplace I went had the gaskets. Either order or in the store. Don't use silicone...come on.
Decided to start the car with the silicone. The car is running a LOT better than before. No more popcorn machine, its pretty smooth. The idle is rough but hey i dont care for now, i'm just happy its working pretty well. The roads here are completely covered in snow so no test drive today, but tomorrow i'm taking her out fot a little bit to see how everything is doing. I'm using no iacv, just going to adjust idle with the throttle body screw and see how it works out during the next couple days.
Thansk for all the help, i'll probably be back with more issues later.
#36
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
You need an IACV to control air. I dont understand how the car will stay on without having the IACV plugged in.
#38
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
reading should be .5 and 4. I don't remember him not running IACV. This is your daily driver.....many run no evap. I havnt heard the no IACV.
edit: i searched again, in this thread it says .4 and 4
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=379743
#39
Just got back from a test drive, and the car feels slower than it was before. RPM isn't hooked up yet. I tried a run with the vias closed, and one with vias open(hooked up vacuum to the nipple, to open vias). Could not really tell a difference between the two. Car feels slower than it was with USIM. Where's all this top end power that i was suposed to get, am i missing it because of vacuum leaks?
I'm running no pcv right now.
I'm running no pcv right now.