mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

meh.. i feel for you man with all that hard work.....hope things turn for the better...

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Something is definitly up, today I started noticing a noticable hesitation around 2500rpm's in 2nd gear just driving normal, and that's not right. After noticing that I was testing and could also repeat a stutter/paue/hesitation around 3k in higher gears if I hit the gas just right, not normal for sure (I know).

I also have a weird exhaust sound coming from upfront, like very weird, since I put maybe 50 miles on the car with a broken camshaft back when the 3.5 was in it I'm going to check the cat and get rid of the rest of the exhaust. But I have a sneaking suspicion it is related to the NGK GP's that I put in at the same time as this swap so I am swapping those out for coppers even sooner.


I did do some very very sketchy "fuzzy ricer math" in my head recently though and possibly realized maybe, against everything I see and know about this manifold, maybe it really does just suck. My fuzzy ricer math went something like this, still bummed I couldn't find a pathy dyno that went higher than 4200rpm's, lol. Anyways:

Pathy 3.5 is rated at 240 crank, assuming a 20% drivetrain loss figure, that's 192 whp. Even if you only subtract a conservative 40hp for the fact that it is a vtc'less 3.0l, that puts it around 150..... I know it's fuzzy ricer math, but I can't get any less conservative with those figures and make the number any higher right? Maybe 177tq @ 3k is about the best this thing will do.

FYI, changed intake piping, swapped mafs for fun while I was at it, and removed powervalve, still not there like it was before the swap.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

One more thing, I don't look how bumpy my graph looks either, looks rough for 5 smoothing to me, also can't help but notice the inconsistency on the long runner dyno's, I'd expect that inconsistency on a fmu'd boosted car but not a mostly stock 3.0

96blkonblkse

iTrader: (18)

I did a motor on a 01 Pathfinder and I hooked up the lines for the powervalve backwards, and it felt about the same as yours. It pulled hard off the line to about ~3500rpm and then just died and died even harder at around 5500+

Swapped the lines and it felt much much better, but still they feel like they lack top end still. I figured it was just the design of the pathfinder. I dont think many people in Pathfinders spend their time above 4500rpm.

I know air will take the path of least resistance but maybe a lot of the air is not going into the "short path" but still being drawn from the long runners.

Still thats a super low dyno, their must be something wrong, I just cant see anything flowing worse than the USIM. That thing is pretty much the benchmark for bad lol.

Props for trying this out and I wish you the best of luck hopefully you figure out the issue. Would be nice to see a 175+ whp dyno

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

That was also something I was thinking, not so much the air flow but the resonance waves. I then started noticing these other issues though, so I'm goint to take a few steps back and put some regular copper ngk's in it, compression test it, get my stock 3.0 coils back on the front, and take care of the exhaust. If it still lacks power before I pull the manifold I have decided to plug the long runners with construction adhesive (urethane) as a last resort before ripping it off.

My VLSD hates all of this, my butt dyno is more perceptable to changes by doing a flat foot 1-2 shift and seeing how long the tires spin afterwards, as of right now it's nothing more than a chirp, was definitly more with the USIM

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

How fun was that tranny dipstick?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

No word yet, and I don't know when I'll be able to play with it again (Not that anyone cares, lol). But I just wanted to say that I happened to find the perfect throttle cable. Of all vehicles I was removing the plenums to replace the starter on my dad's 2000 V8 2wd Tundra and I was like..... wait a second! I checked it out pretty good, the length is perfect, and it is going to drop right in for the most part, I think whoever makes throttle cables for Nissan makes them for Toyota also.