3.5 Swap Completed, Credits, Tech Issues and Plans
08-15-2006, 07:44 PM
#1
Updated Monthly: 3.5 Swap w/EU, WB, S/C (Credits, Issues, Case Summary)
Guys, Thanks for the help and advices...
This swap has come to a good milestone. Together, we solved all the little issues with my setup so far; I couldn't have done it without you guys. So, Thanks a lot!!!
Update: 02/06/2007:
-00VI installation completed
Update: 10/07/2006:
-Emanage Ultimate basica hardware installation completed.
here's the write-up, hosted by VQpower.com:
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=79
Here's my setup:
I basically got to keep all 4th gen accessories onto my 3.5 swap because I used the pathy 3.5 heads and a mevi.
Engine:
3.5 Maxima Block/rehoned cylinders
3.5 Maxima Crank
3.5 Maxima Rods
3.5 Pathfinder Flat-Top Pistons w/new rings
3.5 Pathfinder Heads w/lapped valves
3.5 JWT Valve Springs
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Crank Case Bolts
3.0 JWT S1 Camshafts
3.0 Maxima Valvecovers
3.0 Maxima Timing+Pulley Assembly
3.0 Maxima Oilpan
3.0 Maxima Fuel System (return type fuel lines and sidefeed injectors)
3.0 EVAP Emissions Equipment
Mods:
CATTMAN Full Exhaust: from Headers all the way to Muffler.
Emanage Ultimate (currently down)
PLX M-300 Wideband Oxygen Sensor
Walbro 250lph Fuel Pump
Popcharger Intake
00VI (Port-polished on LIM and Pathy TB)
Pathfinder Throttle Body
Splitfire Ignition Coils (for a while, I thought these coils were bad, but they weren't)
Blemhco Ground Kit
Altima/Maxima Hybrid Gears Transmission: alty's 1st, 2nd, and 5th, max's 3rd, 4th, and final.
Fidanza Flywheels
2001 AE Clutch (part#'s ending: 2Y920)
JWT 7200 ECU (w/this ECU, car runs kinda skippy, I think it's too lean)
and a bunch of other stuff that I wasted my money on, but you can see them on my cardomain homepage.
I want to pay special thanks to the following persons:
Stephen Max
Mr. Steve did tons of tinkering, math, fitting, and fully built this ideally superchargeable block for me; and of course, he had lots of good old austin style beer times with this block also. He is also easy and fully compromisable to work with. I basically want to keep everything as simple as I can while staying a 4th gen setup. He got just the right solutions for me. After initial installation, he was also fully dedicated to be on the phone with me to resolve issues. this thing is running strong and perfect, I appreciate his work. "Thanks a lot, Mr. Steve."
"Nick" at Mech Tech of Baton Rouge
This is a local guy who's been dealing with tons of 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and now 5th gen maxima's in town. He is very "mod-friendly" and very knowledgeable to detect and troubleshoot complex motor problems. I've had some cam installs with 3 other shops with my 3.0 setup before, and they all turned out to be crap. Nick is the right guy I got for the job. When I was at the shop with him, and run into problems, he's always able to tell the problems right on its money. Besides, with an engine swap and a cam job after the swap, I paid only a little over a grand for all his work. I am impressed with his capability and poise.
Icey2k1
He helped me assertively confirm my timing problems promptly. Without him, we'd probably be running more useless tests because we didn't want to do a cam job before we were sure there's issues with it. Basically, our cam timing jumped off by 2 teeth, it's probably tensioner related. Icey is very knowledgeable in various areas of my needed resolve and research. He's also giving me lots of good pictures and diagrams. So Thanks!
Kevlo911
What should I say about this guy? He's like a post *****, except he's not as annoying; rather, he's got very useful replies in real time. Whatever issues I'd have, I just have to post a thread, and he's always the first to reply within a few minutes. Such dedication...Thanks, you're always a Maxima'ER of the month in my book.
Nismology
Like his user name says, he's a study of nismo... Dudes got the brain and the skillz, what more can I say? Very good inputs and very useful info all the time. Thanks for bearing with me.
DandyMax
EU guy, every all motor guy knows him. I got acquainted with this guy over Engine Management issues. He's really focused and optimistic. I'll give him some good headaches pretty soon. But Thanks.
Spig
Though I call him up everyday and chat for hours about the setup, he's never given up hope with my problems. It's the consistency of being a good local friend that counts...Thanks and he's going to come to my place to help me install my fuel setup and EU. So thanks again.
Problems with my progress:
1)
Problem: (Immediate)
cylinders 2 and 3 didn't get any spark. Car drives like a 4 cylinder vehicle, literally.
Tests/Check/Troubleshoot:
Compression, Sparkplugs, Ignition Coils, Injectors, ECU, All Ignition Related Wires.
Root Cause:
After opening up Chain cover, found Cam timing jumped out by 2 teeth.
Resolve:
Re-aligned the cam timing gears, and re-install the assembly. All cylinders fired.
2)
Problem:(Immediate)
Fuel cut out revving beyond 5k rpms. Every rpm below was normal. Took it out for a spin, car revs smooth and strong, but it just won't go beyond 5k rpms. It's as if the rev limiter is placed at 5k rpms. Got 0101 Cam Pos Phase Fault CEL.
Test/Check/Toubleshoot:
Compression, Changed out 3 cam sensors, confirmed not a sensor problem. Opening up the timing assembly to look at timing.
Root Cause:
After opening up Chain cover, found Crank gear off by merely half a tooth, impossible, but it happend...
Resolve:
Re-aligned all gears from top to bottom, and re-install the assembly. Checked timing assembly with a scale before closing the cover. Issue resolved.
3)
Problem:(*Update: Aug 18, 06)
After about 50 miles of driving and moderate hauling, car starts to miss at lower rpms, typically below 3-4k rpms.
Test/Check/Toubleshoot:
Coilpacks, Injectors, Sparkplugs. Wiring Harnesses, Intake Manifold Assembly.
Root Cause:
EGR bung wasn't screwed onto the IM, Exhaust leak occured at intermittent times, this caused some rear bank ignition harness to melt and fused some wires together, causing cylinder 5 misfire and then multiple cylinder misfire engine codes. Also, 3.0 sparkplugs were used instead of the long-thread 3.5 sparkplugs, this could have caused bad ignition from a "hole".
Resolve:
Welded to plug the EGR, screwed the EGR tube firmly into place. Heat shielded each of the rear banks' ignition harness wires. Changed to 3.5 sparkplugs. Car starts great and runs strong.
4) *(EDIT=adding a new problem encountered)*
Problem:(*Update: 8-20-06)
Upon cold start, car idles and revs fine, only a hint of skippy misfires, no backfire at all. When the engine is warmed up, it misfires really bad and harsh. Only when I rev it beyond about 5k rpms, will the misfires "fade" out.
Test/Check/Troubleshoot:
Coilpacks, Sparkplugs, Timing, Wiring Harnesses, ECU has no codes, Injectors, Compression.
Root Cause:
Some injector wires at the ECU harness end have trace cuts on the rubber shielding. This could have messed up the ciruit that the ECU sends the injector signals to. Also, Upon listening to the injectors during operation, injector #5 is slightly weak in the "clicking" sound. We suspected that injector to be stuck, or faulty.
Resolve:
Taped up the Injector wires at the ECU. Replaced a new fuel rail with all new injectors. Problem is sovled.
5)(*Update: 9-10-06)
Problem:
Car seems to run very rich, wastes lots of gasoline, can't make 200 miles per tank. Cel 1001=Front bank O2 heated wire faulty. No choking, no hesitation, no signs of major drivability problems, just simply drinking gasoline...
Test/Check/Troubleshoot:
Installed 2 Narrowband A/F digital sensors to tap in both O2 sensor wires for both banks of the engine. This is a crude way to tell because narrowband O2 isn't very accurate, but I can clearly see the readings to hint me something being wrong.
Root Cause:
O2 sensor was flooded with combustion wastes. Carbon build up severly onto the sensor heads.
Resolve:
Replaced O2 sensor, Checked A/F readouts again. Front bank stays at stoich consistently, Rear bank reads a tid bit rich, around 14.2-3; all close loop readings. Car seems to make out much better gas/milage effects.
Performance/Drivability:(*Added 9-20-06)
Performance:
Well, this car performs well. I must insist, that with a mevi and JWT S1 cams, torque increase is only a tad bit more than my original 3.0 setup at lower rpms. When it reaches 4k rpms, the rev transistions to a more breathable feel, and the tach needle picks up a little faster. When it hits 5k rpms, it's like a turbo spool, the tach needle jumps to redline with a huge increase in pick up (I seriously doubt this to be beneficial because it goes to redline in no time, which I am puzzled by its advantages at the drag strip because after 5k, the tires can barely grip the pavement, and swaping to second gear lands on 5k, which revs up to redline again without traction). I can definitely tell the increase in horsepower in this 5k-redline range is waaaaay more than my 3.0 setup. This noticeable hp increase is beyond the proverbial butt-dyno assumptions; it literally drives likea Honda V-tec motor. Now, my mevi isn't even opeing at all. The solenoid is bad, and I haven't had time to fix that, yet. The great advantange in my opinion is that with a JWT 7200 ecu, I can shift it such that it would drop rpms down to right above 5k where Mevi is supposed to open up and get some drag grip tires with this.
Update on 10-07-06: Finally took it for a one hour long trip to Lafayette 2 days ago. Spirited driving on the interstates proved this motor to be superior on the higher bands. Straight driving on 5th gear all the way to the destination without ever having to down shift to pass other cars. Stepped on the gas a little harder, around 90mph, it's already 4k rpms, and that's when it starts to breathe up and it's easily picking up to 120 mph and shortly cut off by the speed limiter. LOL, this is a beast on the interstates. The motor accelerates smoothly, and never choked a bit on the highway. I've also took it on the mississippi bridge right outside the town, it's a pretty steep climb to the vertex of the bridge. With my old 3.0 motor, I"d have to downshift to 4th gear to accelerate moderately. With this motor, all I did was gas it down a little more, and the puppy does its work and picked up the acceleration without having to down shift to 4th. I'm very impressed.
Drivability:
With a stage 3 XTD clutch, it's barely drivable. It chatters and bounces if trying to engage at lower rpms below 1300. I had to rev around 2k to smooth the engagement onto 1st gear.
The JWT S1 camshafts landed my idle at around 700rpms right now. It doesn't even have a hint of choking outta air or signs of dying out. However, every second or so, it'll stump the chassis like a heart beat inside the closet. The idle also has a hint of chewing sound from the engine bay. It's like tsi-tsiun-tsi-tsiun-tsi-tsiun-tsi-tsiun... the whole time; very rythmic. Not too loud, but standing within a range of 10 feet, you'll hear it. It's pretty impressive that this sound only comes from the engine bay area. At the tail of the car where the muffler is, I was told by ample many guys that it's like a G35, 350Z note, only not so rowdy. It's a little flow restricted sound of the 350Z's. But when it revs up, it's totally a nice roar, without the annoying drones, buzz, nor the fart cannons of a honda. I am definitely satisfied with this sound.
This swap has come to a good milestone. Together, we solved all the little issues with my setup so far; I couldn't have done it without you guys. So, Thanks a lot!!!
Update: 02/06/2007:
-00VI installation completed
Update: 10/07/2006:
-Emanage Ultimate basica hardware installation completed.
here's the write-up, hosted by VQpower.com:
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=79
Here's my setup:
I basically got to keep all 4th gen accessories onto my 3.5 swap because I used the pathy 3.5 heads and a mevi.
Engine:
3.5 Maxima Block/rehoned cylinders
3.5 Maxima Crank
3.5 Maxima Rods
3.5 Pathfinder Flat-Top Pistons w/new rings
3.5 Pathfinder Heads w/lapped valves
3.5 JWT Valve Springs
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Crank Case Bolts
3.0 JWT S1 Camshafts
3.0 Maxima Valvecovers
3.0 Maxima Timing+Pulley Assembly
3.0 Maxima Oilpan
3.0 Maxima Fuel System (return type fuel lines and sidefeed injectors)
3.0 EVAP Emissions Equipment
Mods:
CATTMAN Full Exhaust: from Headers all the way to Muffler.
Emanage Ultimate (currently down)
PLX M-300 Wideband Oxygen Sensor
Walbro 250lph Fuel Pump
Popcharger Intake
00VI (Port-polished on LIM and Pathy TB)
Pathfinder Throttle Body
Splitfire Ignition Coils (for a while, I thought these coils were bad, but they weren't)
Blemhco Ground Kit
Altima/Maxima Hybrid Gears Transmission: alty's 1st, 2nd, and 5th, max's 3rd, 4th, and final.
Fidanza Flywheels
2001 AE Clutch (part#'s ending: 2Y920)
JWT 7200 ECU (w/this ECU, car runs kinda skippy, I think it's too lean)
and a bunch of other stuff that I wasted my money on, but you can see them on my cardomain homepage.
I want to pay special thanks to the following persons:
Stephen Max
Mr. Steve did tons of tinkering, math, fitting, and fully built this ideally superchargeable block for me; and of course, he had lots of good old austin style beer times with this block also. He is also easy and fully compromisable to work with. I basically want to keep everything as simple as I can while staying a 4th gen setup. He got just the right solutions for me. After initial installation, he was also fully dedicated to be on the phone with me to resolve issues. this thing is running strong and perfect, I appreciate his work. "Thanks a lot, Mr. Steve."
"Nick" at Mech Tech of Baton Rouge
This is a local guy who's been dealing with tons of 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and now 5th gen maxima's in town. He is very "mod-friendly" and very knowledgeable to detect and troubleshoot complex motor problems. I've had some cam installs with 3 other shops with my 3.0 setup before, and they all turned out to be crap. Nick is the right guy I got for the job. When I was at the shop with him, and run into problems, he's always able to tell the problems right on its money. Besides, with an engine swap and a cam job after the swap, I paid only a little over a grand for all his work. I am impressed with his capability and poise.
Icey2k1
He helped me assertively confirm my timing problems promptly. Without him, we'd probably be running more useless tests because we didn't want to do a cam job before we were sure there's issues with it. Basically, our cam timing jumped off by 2 teeth, it's probably tensioner related. Icey is very knowledgeable in various areas of my needed resolve and research. He's also giving me lots of good pictures and diagrams. So Thanks!
Kevlo911
What should I say about this guy? He's like a post *****, except he's not as annoying; rather, he's got very useful replies in real time. Whatever issues I'd have, I just have to post a thread, and he's always the first to reply within a few minutes. Such dedication...Thanks, you're always a Maxima'ER of the month in my book.
Nismology
Like his user name says, he's a study of nismo... Dudes got the brain and the skillz, what more can I say? Very good inputs and very useful info all the time. Thanks for bearing with me.
DandyMax
EU guy, every all motor guy knows him. I got acquainted with this guy over Engine Management issues. He's really focused and optimistic. I'll give him some good headaches pretty soon. But Thanks.
Spig
Though I call him up everyday and chat for hours about the setup, he's never given up hope with my problems. It's the consistency of being a good local friend that counts...Thanks and he's going to come to my place to help me install my fuel setup and EU. So thanks again.
Problems with my progress:
1)
Problem: (Immediate)
cylinders 2 and 3 didn't get any spark. Car drives like a 4 cylinder vehicle, literally.
Tests/Check/Troubleshoot:
Compression, Sparkplugs, Ignition Coils, Injectors, ECU, All Ignition Related Wires.
Root Cause:
After opening up Chain cover, found Cam timing jumped out by 2 teeth.
Resolve:
Re-aligned the cam timing gears, and re-install the assembly. All cylinders fired.
2)
Problem:(Immediate)
Fuel cut out revving beyond 5k rpms. Every rpm below was normal. Took it out for a spin, car revs smooth and strong, but it just won't go beyond 5k rpms. It's as if the rev limiter is placed at 5k rpms. Got 0101 Cam Pos Phase Fault CEL.
Test/Check/Toubleshoot:
Compression, Changed out 3 cam sensors, confirmed not a sensor problem. Opening up the timing assembly to look at timing.
Root Cause:
After opening up Chain cover, found Crank gear off by merely half a tooth, impossible, but it happend...
Resolve:
Re-aligned all gears from top to bottom, and re-install the assembly. Checked timing assembly with a scale before closing the cover. Issue resolved.
3)
Problem:(*Update: Aug 18, 06)
After about 50 miles of driving and moderate hauling, car starts to miss at lower rpms, typically below 3-4k rpms.
Test/Check/Toubleshoot:
Coilpacks, Injectors, Sparkplugs. Wiring Harnesses, Intake Manifold Assembly.
Root Cause:
EGR bung wasn't screwed onto the IM, Exhaust leak occured at intermittent times, this caused some rear bank ignition harness to melt and fused some wires together, causing cylinder 5 misfire and then multiple cylinder misfire engine codes. Also, 3.0 sparkplugs were used instead of the long-thread 3.5 sparkplugs, this could have caused bad ignition from a "hole".
Resolve:
Welded to plug the EGR, screwed the EGR tube firmly into place. Heat shielded each of the rear banks' ignition harness wires. Changed to 3.5 sparkplugs. Car starts great and runs strong.
4) *(EDIT=adding a new problem encountered)*
Problem:(*Update: 8-20-06)
Upon cold start, car idles and revs fine, only a hint of skippy misfires, no backfire at all. When the engine is warmed up, it misfires really bad and harsh. Only when I rev it beyond about 5k rpms, will the misfires "fade" out.
Test/Check/Troubleshoot:
Coilpacks, Sparkplugs, Timing, Wiring Harnesses, ECU has no codes, Injectors, Compression.
Root Cause:
Some injector wires at the ECU harness end have trace cuts on the rubber shielding. This could have messed up the ciruit that the ECU sends the injector signals to. Also, Upon listening to the injectors during operation, injector #5 is slightly weak in the "clicking" sound. We suspected that injector to be stuck, or faulty.
Resolve:
Taped up the Injector wires at the ECU. Replaced a new fuel rail with all new injectors. Problem is sovled.
5)(*Update: 9-10-06)
Problem:
Car seems to run very rich, wastes lots of gasoline, can't make 200 miles per tank. Cel 1001=Front bank O2 heated wire faulty. No choking, no hesitation, no signs of major drivability problems, just simply drinking gasoline...
Test/Check/Troubleshoot:
Installed 2 Narrowband A/F digital sensors to tap in both O2 sensor wires for both banks of the engine. This is a crude way to tell because narrowband O2 isn't very accurate, but I can clearly see the readings to hint me something being wrong.
Root Cause:
O2 sensor was flooded with combustion wastes. Carbon build up severly onto the sensor heads.
Resolve:
Replaced O2 sensor, Checked A/F readouts again. Front bank stays at stoich consistently, Rear bank reads a tid bit rich, around 14.2-3; all close loop readings. Car seems to make out much better gas/milage effects.
Performance/Drivability:(*Added 9-20-06)
Performance:
Well, this car performs well. I must insist, that with a mevi and JWT S1 cams, torque increase is only a tad bit more than my original 3.0 setup at lower rpms. When it reaches 4k rpms, the rev transistions to a more breathable feel, and the tach needle picks up a little faster. When it hits 5k rpms, it's like a turbo spool, the tach needle jumps to redline with a huge increase in pick up (I seriously doubt this to be beneficial because it goes to redline in no time, which I am puzzled by its advantages at the drag strip because after 5k, the tires can barely grip the pavement, and swaping to second gear lands on 5k, which revs up to redline again without traction). I can definitely tell the increase in horsepower in this 5k-redline range is waaaaay more than my 3.0 setup. This noticeable hp increase is beyond the proverbial butt-dyno assumptions; it literally drives likea Honda V-tec motor. Now, my mevi isn't even opeing at all. The solenoid is bad, and I haven't had time to fix that, yet. The great advantange in my opinion is that with a JWT 7200 ecu, I can shift it such that it would drop rpms down to right above 5k where Mevi is supposed to open up and get some drag grip tires with this.
Update on 10-07-06: Finally took it for a one hour long trip to Lafayette 2 days ago. Spirited driving on the interstates proved this motor to be superior on the higher bands. Straight driving on 5th gear all the way to the destination without ever having to down shift to pass other cars. Stepped on the gas a little harder, around 90mph, it's already 4k rpms, and that's when it starts to breathe up and it's easily picking up to 120 mph and shortly cut off by the speed limiter. LOL, this is a beast on the interstates. The motor accelerates smoothly, and never choked a bit on the highway. I've also took it on the mississippi bridge right outside the town, it's a pretty steep climb to the vertex of the bridge. With my old 3.0 motor, I"d have to downshift to 4th gear to accelerate moderately. With this motor, all I did was gas it down a little more, and the puppy does its work and picked up the acceleration without having to down shift to 4th. I'm very impressed.
Drivability:
With a stage 3 XTD clutch, it's barely drivable. It chatters and bounces if trying to engage at lower rpms below 1300. I had to rev around 2k to smooth the engagement onto 1st gear.
The JWT S1 camshafts landed my idle at around 700rpms right now. It doesn't even have a hint of choking outta air or signs of dying out. However, every second or so, it'll stump the chassis like a heart beat inside the closet. The idle also has a hint of chewing sound from the engine bay. It's like tsi-tsiun-tsi-tsiun-tsi-tsiun-tsi-tsiun... the whole time; very rythmic. Not too loud, but standing within a range of 10 feet, you'll hear it. It's pretty impressive that this sound only comes from the engine bay area. At the tail of the car where the muffler is, I was told by ample many guys that it's like a G35, 350Z note, only not so rowdy. It's a little flow restricted sound of the 350Z's. But when it revs up, it's totally a nice roar, without the annoying drones, buzz, nor the fart cannons of a honda. I am definitely satisfied with this sound.
08-16-2006, 12:18 AM
#4
Congrats on the setup. I am very happy that you are getting all of the little bugs worked out. As always give me a call if you get anything else.
I can't wait until the EMU and SC are installed.
I will be at BWW thursday, but I have to confirm some things before I can give you those rims.
SPiG
I can't wait until the EMU and SC are installed.
I will be at BWW thursday, but I have to confirm some things before I can give you those rims.
SPiG
08-16-2006, 01:09 PM
#11
Originally Posted by gtr_rider
Wow, best thread in a while with results.. Congrats..
Thought so, I was trying to show the details, but I created this format, thinking it'd be easier to see the whole picture. I hope latter 3.5 swap guys can do something like this so that it's easier for everybody to catch up with the info better.
08-16-2006, 01:38 PM
#13
Originally Posted by GodFather
Thought so, I was trying to show the details, but I created this format, thinking it'd be easier to see the whole picture. I hope latter 3.5 swap guys can do something like this so that it's easier for everybody to catch up with the info better.
08-16-2006, 01:53 PM
#14
Yes, dyno on October 15th, that is, if my car doesn't blow up by then. That'll be my N/A dyno, then December 17th, I'll start on the supercharger project and dyno boosted on February.
08-16-2006, 02:50 PM
#15
Awesome job...awesome follow through/determination.
Can't wait for that dyno.
Can't wait for that dyno.
Originally Posted by GodFather
Yes, dyno on October 15th, that is, if my car doesn't blow up by then. That'll be my N/A dyno, then December 17th, I'll start on the supercharger project and dyno boosted on February.
08-16-2006, 05:52 PM
#16
Good job Peter. Good to hear everything's running well.
I too will be very interested to see the dyno curves given the unique setup you have... but you gotta get tuned up well with the EU to really see the results! lol
I too will be very interested to see the dyno curves given the unique setup you have... but you gotta get tuned up well with the EU to really see the results! lol
08-16-2006, 06:11 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Glad you got the issues resolved... Although I am having a hard time what the chain and gear looks like half a tooth off??
08-16-2006, 06:22 PM
#19
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Good job Peter. Good to hear everything's running well.
I too will be very interested to see the dyno curves given the unique setup you have... but you gotta get tuned up well with the EU to really see the results! lol
I too will be very interested to see the dyno curves given the unique setup you have... but you gotta get tuned up well with the EU to really see the results! lol
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Awesome job...awesome follow through/determination.
Can't wait for that dyno.
Can't wait for that dyno.
I am not sure what the dyno is going to look like. This IS a pretty unique setup, but I doubt it that it'll be too similar to the typical 3.5 swap results.
I'm saying this because I just took a ride in my friend's 05 G35 coupe, It "feels" like that thing is pulling harder than mine down low, but didn't have much muscle up high. I raced him twice today, from a stop, he took me by 2 cars on the launch, but I get to catch up after switching to 3rd gear, and at the end of 3rd gear, I was a 4 cars ahead. Then from a 30mph roll, I just left him yard for yard, by the end of 3rd gear, I didn't even bother counting the distances. But the races were relatively short and unofficial. When I was 3.0, I couldn't win at all, but now he's amazed by my 3.5 setup. LOL
My next target is my friend's stock Chevy Z28...
08-16-2006, 08:04 PM
#20
Well your car is built for top end with the cams now. That plus the absence of VTC's and your strength is not the low end. Hence the way it pulls up top...
If I had to guess at a 1/4 mi time for you right now I'd say mid-high 13's depending on your weight. With tuning and a higher rev limit though you'll find some more power and rpm band to work with.
If I had to guess at a 1/4 mi time for you right now I'd say mid-high 13's depending on your weight. With tuning and a higher rev limit though you'll find some more power and rpm band to work with.
08-16-2006, 11:01 PM
#22
Originally Posted by GodFather
[B][SIZE="4"]Altima/Maxima Hybrid Gears Transmission: alty's 1st, 2nd, and 5th, max's 3rd, 4th, and final.
I thought I told you that when I sold it to you? 1st, 2nd, and 3rd are shorter, 4th is the same ratio as a maxima 4th, and 5th is taller... I believe the final drive is also the same as the maxima's. I honestly hope that tranny holds up... my 5th gen 5spd blew 3rd gear the day after I got my vq35 installed... I guess it was too much torque.Bryan
P.S. I WANNA GO FOR A RIDE!
08-17-2006, 04:09 AM
#23
Originally Posted by h2kFrosty
It's actually an altima 5spd 1st through 5th, there are no maxima gears, it's also an altima final drive just to clarify... i did a complete altima 5spd internal swap into the maxima bell housing... I thought I told you that when I sold it to you? 1st, 2nd, and 3rd are shorter, 4th is the same ratio as a maxima 4th, and 5th is taller... I believe the final drive is also the same as the maxima's. I honestly hope that tranny holds up... my 5th gen 5spd blew 3rd gear the day after I got my vq35 installed... I guess it was too much torque.
Bryan
P.S. I WANNA GO FOR A RIDE!
I thought I told you that when I sold it to you? 1st, 2nd, and 3rd are shorter, 4th is the same ratio as a maxima 4th, and 5th is taller... I believe the final drive is also the same as the maxima's. I honestly hope that tranny holds up... my 5th gen 5spd blew 3rd gear the day after I got my vq35 installed... I guess it was too much torque.Bryan
P.S. I WANNA GO FOR A RIDE!
Thanks for clearing that up. I thought you told me what I used to know, but now it's changed. Well, from my research, alty gears differ only from 1st, 2nd, and 5th, every other gears are the same as maxima's. So, that's why I thought it was what it was.
Hey, Brian, come to the meet tonight, though cumalot called dibs on first ride, I'm pretty sure that I'd have to already break that rule tonight because so many are calling dibs too.
08-17-2006, 04:44 AM
#24
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,183
You blew 3rd gear??? Holy *&^%. Were you boosted when you first threw in the 3.5? Your sig shows the turbo, but it is on the DEK. If you were boosted then I can see why. I don't know from where, but I remember reading that 3rd gear shatters more often then any other gear. I seriously think the 3rd gear synchro sucks in our 5SPDs. I am bare bones stock now and my 3rd gear synchro will just randomly grind or not lot me in 3rd without taking the clutch in and out. Now granted I have 145k on my car, ALL of those miles minus the last 3K were put on by an experienced older person who probably babied it.
08-17-2006, 10:22 AM
#25
Originally Posted by scrhale
You blew 3rd gear??? Holy *&^%. Were you boosted when you first threw in the 3.5? Your sig shows the turbo, but it is on the DEK. If you were boosted then I can see why. I don't know from where, but I remember reading that 3rd gear shatters more often then any other gear. I seriously think the 3rd gear synchro sucks in our 5SPDs. I am bare bones stock now and my 3rd gear synchro will just randomly grind or not lot me in 3rd without taking the clutch in and out. Now granted I have 145k on my car, ALL of those miles minus the last 3K were put on by an experienced older person who probably babied it.
Frosty put the 3.5 in his 97 maxima with a 5th gen transmission. That was the tranny he had on his turbo car. He is building an ultimate turbo'ed machinery on his 5th gen right now, and he'll have a 6 speed in it, that's why he's using this 5 speed in his 3.5 swap. That tranny was abused from the turbo setup before, so I wouldn't be suprised to see it blew, but just not within the first day of the swap. LOL.
08-17-2006, 12:20 PM
#26
Power shifting into our 5spd's relatively weak 3rd gear will blow it almost everytime. Especially if it was boosted for ~30k miles, not used for about 2 years, then used with 10w30 motor oil in it.
Frosty has 2 Maximas. A 96 white car that was rigged up to all hell when he bought it and he has had to waste a ton of money on. He just recently put a VQ35 in and then blew his tranny because the car's shift linkage and master cylinder still don't work well, and he now wants to put a 6spd in it. His 01 was turboed and is now being slowly rebuild into a monster turbo drag car. The SC/TC forums have all the info you will get until it is done.
ps
Frosty has 2 Maximas. A 96 white car that was rigged up to all hell when he bought it and he has had to waste a ton of money on. He just recently put a VQ35 in and then blew his tranny because the car's shift linkage and master cylinder still don't work well, and he now wants to put a 6spd in it. His 01 was turboed and is now being slowly rebuild into a monster turbo drag car. The SC/TC forums have all the info you will get until it is done.
ps
Originally Posted by http://www.vibratesoftware.com/
00-01 Altima gearing:
1: 3.400
2: 1.955
3: 1.272
4: 0.954
5: 0.740
FD: 3.823
95-01 Maxima gearing:
1: 3.285
2: 1.850
3: 1.206
4: 0.954
5: 0.759
FD: 3.823
1: 3.400
2: 1.955
3: 1.272
4: 0.954
5: 0.740
FD: 3.823
95-01 Maxima gearing:
1: 3.285
2: 1.850
3: 1.206
4: 0.954
5: 0.759
FD: 3.823
08-17-2006, 02:10 PM
#27
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by GodFather
Thanks for clearing that up. I thought you told me what I used to know, but now it's changed. Well, from my research, alty gears differ only from 1st, 2nd, and 5th, every other gears are the same as maxima's. So, that's why I thought it was what it was.
Hey, Brian, come to the meet tonight, though cumalot called dibs on first ride, I'm pretty sure that I'd have to already break that rule tonight because so many are calling dibs too.
Hey, Brian, come to the meet tonight, though cumalot called dibs on first ride, I'm pretty sure that I'd have to already break that rule tonight because so many are calling dibs too.
I'm definitely going to have to take a ride also...i'm in baton rouge right now at starbucks on College Dr., so I'll probably be at BWW's pretty early. Can't wait to hear the beast!
08-17-2006, 05:53 PM
#31
Originally Posted by happy4444
and the biggest Q.. how much did it run you.....
oh yea... AWESOME AND GOOD LUCK MY MAN
oh yea... AWESOME AND GOOD LUCK MY MAN
Motor being bulit+cams+parts+engine install+cam re-install...about 4k for me. It's actually a great deal I got because of all the mods and technical conversions that are involved.
-Peter-
08-17-2006, 05:56 PM
#32
Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.vibratesoftware.com/
00-01 Altima gearing:
1: 3.400
2: 1.955
3: 1.272
4: 0.954
5: 0.740
FD: 3.823
95-01 Maxima gearing:
1: 3.285
2: 1.850
3: 1.206
4: 0.954
5: 0.759
FD: 3.823
-------------------------------------------------------
Base on my knowing, I didn't have these exact numbers, I thought 3rd and 4th were the same for both alty and max. Well, it's time to change my numbers on the homepage...
Originally Posted by http://www.vibratesoftware.com/
00-01 Altima gearing:
1: 3.400
2: 1.955
3: 1.272
4: 0.954
5: 0.740
FD: 3.823
95-01 Maxima gearing:
1: 3.285
2: 1.850
3: 1.206
4: 0.954
5: 0.759
FD: 3.823
-------------------------------------------------------
Base on my knowing, I didn't have these exact numbers, I thought 3rd and 4th were the same for both alty and max. Well, it's time to change my numbers on the homepage...
08-17-2006, 09:37 PM
#34
Originally Posted by DandyMax
If you can, take a video of it idling, revving, etc like 96sleeper did. A couple driveby's wouldn't hurt either...
I went to the meet with a couple local maxima guys...Turns out that my fuel setup is probably faulty; it started missing again, it basically stutters on acceleration--stutters pretty hard. No CEL's this time. Don't know what's the problem, but I'm thinking fuel. So, wideband will be here tomorrow, I'll install it first to see the exact A/F that's going on.
I would like to do a video, but I'm kinda busy preparing for school and fixing to EU-it at the same time, so I may not be able to do such things for now. But when we go to the track, we'll snap a few vids down.
Everyone at the meet today liked my idle. I am a little suprised some guys even say it sounds like a 350z on the revs. It's cattman's exhaust at work. LOL. All I can say is that the 3.5 motor is definitely waaaaaay louder than my old 3.0 setup. I'm a little quiet-killer-ish person, so I wasn't satisfied with the sound at all. I liked these cattman's with the 3.0 better, but WTH, I got a killing 3.5 now; what's there to complain?
All of my EU accessory harnesses came in today, so I'm looking forward to tune it soon. I got 555cc injectors, do you think I can also put these babies in and tune it?
-Peter-
08-18-2006, 01:24 AM
#35
Spig, thanks for posting the Alty gear ratios. And once again Peter, it has 100% Altima 5spd internals, no Maxima tranny gears/syncros. Also Peter have you ever dynoed your car? I would love to see what those coilpacks made for you. Also you need to dyno with your vq35 as well. Actually we should go ahead and sign up for a group dyno for me you, and all the other local vq35 guys. I definately think it would be a good idea to dyno with and without those coilpacks so we can see what kinda gains they're getting, esp. on a vq35. It's not hard at all to take coilpacks in and out. Who are you going to have to do your tuning? Let me know when you wanna pull that 00vi, I'll glady help you out if I can.
08-18-2006, 06:39 AM
#36
Originally Posted by GodFather
I went to the meet with a couple local maxima guys...Turns out that my fuel setup is probably faulty; it started missing again, it basically stutters on acceleration--stutters pretty hard. No CEL's this time. Don't know what's the problem, but I'm thinking fuel. So, wideband will be here tomorrow, I'll install it first to see the exact A/F that's going on.
All of my EU accessory harnesses came in today, so I'm looking forward to tune it soon. I got 555cc injectors, do you think I can also put these babies in and tune it?
-Peter-
All of my EU accessory harnesses came in today, so I'm looking forward to tune it soon. I got 555cc injectors, do you think I can also put these babies in and tune it?
-Peter-
Without having the EU in yet, do you have any means of logging to check the injector duty cycle? Even a decent automotive multimeter sometimes can measure it. Another thing is put the stock ECU in instead of the JWT if you think it's going too lean... see if it makes a difference, could at least help to give you some idea. Have you checked your fuel pressures? Good source of vacuum to the FPR? etc etc
But really, once you get the WB + EU installed you should be able to assess the fuel situation pretty well.
08-18-2006, 06:57 AM
#37
Okay, I'll wait for wideband to go in first and take a look. Then maybe EU tune if necessary. I am going to start EU wires on Monday.
I do not have any other means of datalogging right now, but since EU is going in soon, I can wait on. I do have an extra set of stock 4th gen injectors, I was thinking about installing those before anything; but now I change my mind and decide to wait for WB and EU to tell me what's going on.
I'm still having trouble understanding how to install the FPR, so Walbro's fuel pump isn't going in yet. But I'm feeliing a little lack of fuel pressure or something. When the car drives, it's fine, but when it gets warmed up, it would stutter some, like a few miles, then it'll be normal again for a few miles, then stutter a few then normal a few...This is really weird, only thing I can think of is either fuel pressure is too low or one or more injectors are bad.
My theory is: I have a 4th gen fuel setup at 43 max psi's on 4th gen puny injectors; compared to the 3.5 setup on larger injectors at higher fuel pressure. Mine's waaaay too low of a fuel delivery for the 3.5 with higher lift jwt cams. Of course, I can't say it for sure until I can get some datalogging rolling.
I do not have any other means of datalogging right now, but since EU is going in soon, I can wait on. I do have an extra set of stock 4th gen injectors, I was thinking about installing those before anything; but now I change my mind and decide to wait for WB and EU to tell me what's going on.
I'm still having trouble understanding how to install the FPR, so Walbro's fuel pump isn't going in yet. But I'm feeliing a little lack of fuel pressure or something. When the car drives, it's fine, but when it gets warmed up, it would stutter some, like a few miles, then it'll be normal again for a few miles, then stutter a few then normal a few...This is really weird, only thing I can think of is either fuel pressure is too low or one or more injectors are bad.
My theory is: I have a 4th gen fuel setup at 43 max psi's on 4th gen puny injectors; compared to the 3.5 setup on larger injectors at higher fuel pressure. Mine's waaaay too low of a fuel delivery for the 3.5 with higher lift jwt cams. Of course, I can't say it for sure until I can get some datalogging rolling.
08-18-2006, 07:02 AM
#38
Originally Posted by h2kFrosty
Spig, thanks for posting the Alty gear ratios. And once again Peter, it has 100% Altima 5spd internals, no Maxima tranny gears/syncros. Also Peter have you ever dynoed your car? I would love to see what those coilpacks made for you. Also you need to dyno with your vq35 as well. Actually we should go ahead and sign up for a group dyno for me you, and all the other local vq35 guys. I definately think it would be a good idea to dyno with and without those coilpacks so we can see what kinda gains they're getting, esp. on a vq35. It's not hard at all to take coilpacks in and out. Who are you going to have to do your tuning? Let me know when you wanna pull that 00vi, I'll glady help you out if I can.
Frosty, there's an importfaceoff event coming up this october 15th. It'll be at Noproblemraceway. they'll have dyno sessions at 45 bucks for 2 pulls. We can all go and run dyno's there.
At this time, I'm getting stuttering issues, hope it to be fuel problems, if not, it could be damaged coil packs, yes the splitfire coil packs. I am afraid to say so, but they may have been damaged by shorting wire currents. Unless I can prove my fuel problems, I wouldn't leave the coils out of my casualty list.
08-21-2006, 12:16 AM
#39
Originally Posted by GodFather
Frosty, there's an importfaceoff event coming up this october 15th. It'll be at Noproblemraceway. they'll have dyno sessions at 45 bucks for 2 pulls. We can all go and run dyno's there.
At this time, I'm getting stuttering issues, hope it to be fuel problems, if not, it could be damaged coil packs, yes the splitfire coil packs. I am afraid to say so, but they may have been damaged by shorting wire currents. Unless I can prove my fuel problems, I wouldn't leave the coils out of my casualty list.
At this time, I'm getting stuttering issues, hope it to be fuel problems, if not, it could be damaged coil packs, yes the splitfire coil packs. I am afraid to say so, but they may have been damaged by shorting wire currents. Unless I can prove my fuel problems, I wouldn't leave the coils out of my casualty list.
08-22-2006, 08:39 PM
#40
Okay now the Splitfire coilpacks are good. I put them on my gf's stock maxima and it runs the champ out of that car. So I know the splitfire's are good at this point.
The stuttering problem comes from the injectors. One or ore injectors is/are faulty. I just replaced the whole injector rail with new injectors, and turns out the engine is running good again.
Since there's this problem delaying my intended installation of the Wideband and EU, I will start them as soon as tomorrow.
I will dyno the car on October 15th as planned.
-Peter-
The stuttering problem comes from the injectors. One or ore injectors is/are faulty. I just replaced the whole injector rail with new injectors, and turns out the engine is running good again.
Since there's this problem delaying my intended installation of the Wideband and EU, I will start them as soon as tomorrow.
I will dyno the car on October 15th as planned.
-Peter-