kcidmil

Well if that's the case, then I have an idea that will help with the heat issue. Besides, it'll help during the winter as well. (though the max never leaves the garage when snow is on the ground).

I'm heading out the door now to get those pics.

kcidmil

Here they are. This is the left bank





RIGHT BANK

Nismo87SE

The front bank is discolored from the PCV system. I believe that if you ran an oil separator like the ones used on the SR20DE it would keep the head clean. I wish I still had pics of the heads off my 211k mile 87SE, they were really clean.

kcidmil

I also did find a nice exhaust leak off my right bank manifold. Plus... I also had one stud break inside my block

My left bank was fine, all the studs stayed. Right... yeah, so far I'm not happy with it. Leaks all over the place. Plus I was working on the transaxle support when I accidently zapped the block coolant drain at least it wasn't a radiator full like my nice escapade at work.

Alex_V

Its not as bad as my 240, with 4 of 8 studs holding on the manifold its loud and sounds like garbage.

~Alex

kcidmil

Ok, now I have questions about tuning the ECU. I'm having a hard time deciding between 11:1 and 10:1. I move around a lot, and I'm planing on moving to UT next year. Strange place to want to move, but family reasons are the biggest.

The air up there is thinner than here, so I'm worried about starving the motor. It's not carb, I know, but 11:1 doesn't leave much either. But a tuned ECU shoube be able to adjust for that?

2nd question, how long of a turn around is there when I send all the info to have the ECU retuned? I don't know how long I will be there before I move again somewhere else in the states.

Luckily I don't have to worry about emissions as the car will be registered in TN no matter where I move.

Alex_V

what about just geting a prom chip soldered into the ECU? that would let you do your own tuning, you just need a wideband 02 sensor and laptop, and its probably the same as JWT but you'd have timing control and fuel control all that and you can tune it any time. But I havn't looked at tuning a VG ecu in a while.

Also a higher CR is more gas efficent. Id say just 11:1 the bish and tune it right your self. You putting alot of money into the car, you might as well get full tuning control your self insted of paying $500 for a generic tune and then 50-100 for retunes, and slow turn around.

Theres always megasquirt ecu too. fully tunable for $300 or so build, then just wire it into the stock harness.

If your build goes well I might do the same, but GL.

~Alex

kcidmil

ok next question. I'm going with a UR flywheel (there are some things that Fidanza claims that don't sit too well with me) I'm trying to decide on the clutch. I had a stage 3 in there already, and the holding, and launch was nice, but it ate through pretty quick. So I'm thinking of going back down, but I'm worried the engine might be too much for it.

Right now I've been looking at either the Exedy stage 1, or the Zoom Stage 1 or 2.

Also, after some further inspection of the right bank, I have determined it has overheated, and the stains weren't caused from the PCV.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

What's your total power/torque prediction? you need to pick a clutch based on your power plans and your driving. if you're going to be driving the thing on the street, you don't want a 2lb flywheel and a triple plate clutch. you need a regular Fidanza (or UD if you wish) with a streetable clutch like the ACT street/strip disc or the Exedy stage I. the problem is that it'll 'only' hold about 250-300 tq. But of the lowly VG and it's potential while N/A, then that's just fine. it'll hold plenty fine and last longer than a 3puck iron disc.

kcidmil

Hmm... I'll have to mill over the numbers for a little while. If the numbers are the case, Stage 1 will be fine. Of course the thing I like about Zoom is they use a Kevlar/Carbon mix.

Here's the 2 I was thinking about.

http://www.zoomperformance.com/stage_01.html
http://www.zoomperformance.com/stage_02.html