Completely Removing Secondary Oxygen Sensors – Guru’s step in..
10-19-2005, 11:49 AM
#1
Completely Removing Secondary Oxygen Sensors – Guru’s step in..
Here is the background, I have gotten a set of Gen II Cattman Headers. Being a 2k2, I will not be using the two secondary heated oxygen sensors. So, to keep from having two bungs welded in post-cat, I am opting for a dual output O2 simulator. The only difference between the single and dual is a second sensor wire.
You will notice these O2 sensors are all 4 wire; power, ground, and two signals. One signal is for the O2 sensor, the other is to run the O2 sensor heater. The heater sensor wire is left intact (or you will throw a variety of codes).
My issue is that I do not just want to zip tie these expensive O2 sensors up underneath the car and there isn’t a really good spot for them. I would rather remove them completely. I have read on a few other forums about completely removing the sensor, wiring an O2 simulator in place, and wiring a resistor up in place to take care of the codes for the heaters in the O2 sensors. http://o2sim.com/27978.html states in their FAQ’s that:
“Can the secondary o2 sensor be totally disconnected?
In some cases yes. The OBDII car oxygen sensor has four wires and there are two independent circuits inside o2 sensor: Sensor Heater and Actual o2 Sensor. Two wires are used for sensor heater and two for actual sensor element. Most car ECUs monitor heater circuit and will trigger error code when oxygen sensor heater circuit is disconnected. You can check the car wiring diagram to determine if o2 sensor can be totally disconnected. If the sensor heater is connected to ground and supplied +12V from the ignition circuit than sensor can be totally be replaced with o2 simulator. O2 sensor can be totally removed on all GM cars, Dodge trucks and Jeeps. All import cars monitor heater circuit and o2 sensor can not be removed.
Can o2 sensor heater circuit be also simulated?
Yes. Generally o2 sensor heater circuit can be simulated with 40-60Omh 20watt resistor. Most electronic parts supply stores sell the for about 1$.”
So, any thoughts on this? If this would work, what size resistor would work? Since this simulated the heater still being attached, would it get hot? I have a million questions, so I will see what comes up in the responses below.
I plan on wiring this O2 simulator inside the car where I can get to the wires exiting the ECU instead of under the hood.
You will notice these O2 sensors are all 4 wire; power, ground, and two signals. One signal is for the O2 sensor, the other is to run the O2 sensor heater. The heater sensor wire is left intact (or you will throw a variety of codes).
My issue is that I do not just want to zip tie these expensive O2 sensors up underneath the car and there isn’t a really good spot for them. I would rather remove them completely. I have read on a few other forums about completely removing the sensor, wiring an O2 simulator in place, and wiring a resistor up in place to take care of the codes for the heaters in the O2 sensors. http://o2sim.com/27978.html states in their FAQ’s that:
“Can the secondary o2 sensor be totally disconnected?
In some cases yes. The OBDII car oxygen sensor has four wires and there are two independent circuits inside o2 sensor: Sensor Heater and Actual o2 Sensor. Two wires are used for sensor heater and two for actual sensor element. Most car ECUs monitor heater circuit and will trigger error code when oxygen sensor heater circuit is disconnected. You can check the car wiring diagram to determine if o2 sensor can be totally disconnected. If the sensor heater is connected to ground and supplied +12V from the ignition circuit than sensor can be totally be replaced with o2 simulator. O2 sensor can be totally removed on all GM cars, Dodge trucks and Jeeps. All import cars monitor heater circuit and o2 sensor can not be removed.
Can o2 sensor heater circuit be also simulated?
Yes. Generally o2 sensor heater circuit can be simulated with 40-60Omh 20watt resistor. Most electronic parts supply stores sell the for about 1$.”
So, any thoughts on this? If this would work, what size resistor would work? Since this simulated the heater still being attached, would it get hot? I have a million questions, so I will see what comes up in the responses below.
I plan on wiring this O2 simulator inside the car where I can get to the wires exiting the ECU instead of under the hood.
10-19-2005, 07:58 PM
#4
so does that mean that the ECU doesn't use the rear (after pre-cat) o2 sensors for a/f ratio and timing?
where did you get the o2 sims?
The 4 wire cali sensors have the following colors:
1.White
2.White
3.Grey
4.Black
Jime how did you wire yours?
Thanks
where did you get the o2 sims?
The 4 wire cali sensors have the following colors:
1.White
2.White
3.Grey
4.Black
Jime how did you wire yours?
Thanks
10-19-2005, 11:28 PM
#7
i got my o2 sim from bakerselectronics.com or something.. the dude sells them on ebay...
as for the resistors that are needed to completely bypass the o2.. i was told that those resistors get fairly hot so you can't mount those in the car or around anything that can melt just like the o2 sensors.. i guess what you can do is find two nuts at the hardware store that the o2 can bolt up to, and weld that along side the headers or something.. or make a bracket.. i temporarily ziptied mine to the hard coolant lines.
as for the resistors that are needed to completely bypass the o2.. i was told that those resistors get fairly hot so you can't mount those in the car or around anything that can melt just like the o2 sensors.. i guess what you can do is find two nuts at the hardware store that the o2 can bolt up to, and weld that along side the headers or something.. or make a bracket.. i temporarily ziptied mine to the hard coolant lines.
10-20-2005, 05:10 AM
#8
Originally Posted by mingo
i got my o2 sim from bakerselectronics.com or something.. the dude sells them on ebay...
as for the resistors that are needed to completely bypass the o2.. i was told that those resistors get fairly hot so you can't mount those in the car or around anything that can melt just like the o2 sensors.. i guess what you can do is find two nuts at the hardware store that the o2 can bolt up to, and weld that along side the headers or something.. or make a bracket.. i temporarily ziptied mine to the hard coolant lines.
as for the resistors that are needed to completely bypass the o2.. i was told that those resistors get fairly hot so you can't mount those in the car or around anything that can melt just like the o2 sensors.. i guess what you can do is find two nuts at the hardware store that the o2 can bolt up to, and weld that along side the headers or something.. or make a bracket.. i temporarily ziptied mine to the hard coolant lines.
10-20-2005, 12:40 PM
#9
wow i'm finding out a lot of info about o2 sensors.
so then the two pre pre-cat sensors are the same as the two front o2 on a fed spec.
then only difference is
fed spec rear o2 monitors the main cat
cali spec rear o2 monitors the pre-pats
if that is correct than are those sensors the same? i.e. swapping in a fed spec front o2 sensor to a cali ?
when you put the headers on, you need to lengthen the front header o2 wire to reach the new o2 location in the y-pipe. with the longer wire on the fed spec sensor, you wouldn't need to cut and splice any wires to make extensions. the rear doesn't need this since the o2 sensor sits in the y-pipe exactly as in fed.
the reason i ask i will have to change my o2 sensor in the front header of my 99 cali spec. Thanks everybody.
so then the two pre pre-cat sensors are the same as the two front o2 on a fed spec.
then only difference is
fed spec rear o2 monitors the main cat
cali spec rear o2 monitors the pre-pats
if that is correct than are those sensors the same? i.e. swapping in a fed spec front o2 sensor to a cali ?
when you put the headers on, you need to lengthen the front header o2 wire to reach the new o2 location in the y-pipe. with the longer wire on the fed spec sensor, you wouldn't need to cut and splice any wires to make extensions. the rear doesn't need this since the o2 sensor sits in the y-pipe exactly as in fed.
the reason i ask i will have to change my o2 sensor in the front header of my 99 cali spec. Thanks everybody.
10-20-2005, 12:59 PM
#10
Originally Posted by vipervadim
wow i'm finding out a lot of info about o2 sensors.
so then the two pre pre-cat sensors are the same as the two front o2 on a fed spec.
then only difference is
fed spec rear o2 monitors the main cat
cali spec rear o2 monitors the pre-pats
if that is correct than are those sensors the same? i.e. swapping in a fed spec front o2 sensor to a cali ?
when you put the headers on, you need to lengthen the front header o2 wire to reach the new o2 location in the y-pipe. with the longer wire on the fed spec sensor, you wouldn't need to cut and splice any wires to make extensions. the rear doesn't need this since the o2 sensor sits in the y-pipe exactly as in fed.
the reason i ask i will have to change my o2 sensor in the front header of my 99 cali spec. Thanks everybody.
so then the two pre pre-cat sensors are the same as the two front o2 on a fed spec.
then only difference is
fed spec rear o2 monitors the main cat
cali spec rear o2 monitors the pre-pats
if that is correct than are those sensors the same? i.e. swapping in a fed spec front o2 sensor to a cali ?
when you put the headers on, you need to lengthen the front header o2 wire to reach the new o2 location in the y-pipe. with the longer wire on the fed spec sensor, you wouldn't need to cut and splice any wires to make extensions. the rear doesn't need this since the o2 sensor sits in the y-pipe exactly as in fed.
the reason i ask i will have to change my o2 sensor in the front header of my 99 cali spec. Thanks everybody.
10-21-2005, 07:56 AM
#11
After a conversation with vipervadim yesterday on AIM, I thought I would make some simple wiring diagrams to further add to the discussion.
This first diagram is how the system looks stock, regarding the secondary heated O2 sensors in relation to the ECU (and associated pin locations). **See disclaimer at bottom**
**Disclaimer** I am not an electical engineer working for Nissan. I am in no way responsible for problems resulted from following these wiring diagrams. EGH
This first diagram is how the system looks stock, regarding the secondary heated O2 sensors in relation to the ECU (and associated pin locations). **See disclaimer at bottom**
**Disclaimer** I am not an electical engineer working for Nissan. I am in no way responsible for problems resulted from following these wiring diagrams. EGH
10-21-2005, 07:59 AM
#12
This second diagram is how the system looks with a wired in dual sensor O2 simulator in relation to the secondary heated O2 sensors and the ECU (and associated pin locations). **See disclaimer at bottom**
**Disclaimer** I am not an electical engineer working for Nissan. I am in no way responsible for problems resulted from following these wiring diagrams. EGH
**Disclaimer** I am not an electical engineer working for Nissan. I am in no way responsible for problems resulted from following these wiring diagrams. EGH
10-21-2005, 08:02 AM
#13
This last diagram is how the system looks with a wired in dual sensor O2 simulator AND resistors for the heater circuit in relation to the secondary heated O2 sensors and the ECU (and associated pin locations). With this working, the secondary HO2 sensors could be completely removed. **See disclaimer at bottom**
**Disclaimer** I am not an electical engineer working for Nissan. I am in no way responsible for problems resulted from following these wiring diagrams. EGH
**Disclaimer** I am not an electical engineer working for Nissan. I am in no way responsible for problems resulted from following these wiring diagrams. EGH
10-21-2005, 09:40 AM
#14
6spd_Hayes
great work on the diagrams and the wiring. Everything is correct.
if anybody wants to look at page EC-229 and EC-230 or the 99 FSM they will get these pinouts:
ECM:
107- Red - O2HRR (O2 Heater Right, rear bank)
56 - White - O2SRR (O2 Signal Right, rear bank)
105- Red - O2HRL (O2 Heater Left, front bank)
57 - White - O2SRL (O2 Signal Left, front bank)
You will also need the Ignition/Acc+12V And Ground
Oxygen Sensor:
pin1-O2HR - O2 Heater (Red)
pin2-O2SR - O2 Signal (White)
pin3-Ignition/ACC12V - 12Volts when ignition is on (Black/Red)
pin4-Ground - (Black)
i also found that the front o2 sensors are the same in Cali/Fed, so you can order a new fed spec front O2 sensor (Left bank,B2) and not have to splice any wires to make your headers fit. It is even a direct plug in.
I will be testing this on my 99 Cali as soon as i get the dual signal o2 sim, and have time to mess around with the car. but once i'm done you can expect a writeup in the how-to's. although your diagrams are a PERFECT example. Hopefully those resistors will take care of the Heaters.
great work on the diagrams and the wiring. Everything is correct.
if anybody wants to look at page EC-229 and EC-230 or the 99 FSM they will get these pinouts:
ECM:
107- Red - O2HRR (O2 Heater Right, rear bank)
56 - White - O2SRR (O2 Signal Right, rear bank)
105- Red - O2HRL (O2 Heater Left, front bank)
57 - White - O2SRL (O2 Signal Left, front bank)
You will also need the Ignition/Acc+12V And Ground
Oxygen Sensor:
pin1-O2HR - O2 Heater (Red)
pin2-O2SR - O2 Signal (White)
pin3-Ignition/ACC12V - 12Volts when ignition is on (Black/Red)
pin4-Ground - (Black)
i also found that the front o2 sensors are the same in Cali/Fed, so you can order a new fed spec front O2 sensor (Left bank,B2) and not have to splice any wires to make your headers fit. It is even a direct plug in.
I will be testing this on my 99 Cali as soon as i get the dual signal o2 sim, and have time to mess around with the car. but once i'm done you can expect a writeup in the how-to's. although your diagrams are a PERFECT example. Hopefully those resistors will take care of the Heaters.
04-17-2006, 10:06 AM
#15
"Generally o2 sensor heater circuit can be simulated with 40-60Omh 20watt resistor. Most electronic parts supply stores sell the for about 1$.”
I tried looking for a 20 watt, but only found 10 watt. Would 10 watt work?
I tried looking for a 20 watt, but only found 10 watt. Would 10 watt work?
04-17-2006, 07:11 PM
#16
All this talk about post cat O2's is good stuff but a headache from where I am right now.
Anyway I installed my hotshot headers back about 4 months ago and installed a dual output 02 simulator from o2sim.com or something close to that.
I thought man this is great no codes to worry about and I got not a single code for like 2-3 months. Then all of a sudden the SES light comes on. I remember someone here on the org. saying that sooner or later this might happen, but I was sure I was the special 2k2 that was going to get by with no problems.
Boy was I wrong and I am now getting the 1154 and 1174 codes which I think are post cat codes. I know the dual O2 simulator is working as the green light blinks like it is functioning normally. But my theory is the these OBDII ECU's, especially in our Nissan cars, are just so damn picky that even a voltage .01 outside of its operating range will trigger the SES light.
I have cleared the ECU with the pedal reset procedures a couple of times only to have it come back within 30-40 miles of regular driving. The strange part is that sometimes it will go out by itself for a couple of days only to return soon after.
I am at the point now where I am going to have to extend these 2 post cat O2s and weld some bungs into the Bpipe. Any suggestions of what kind of wire I should use for proper resistance and heat shielding etc.? I guess I will need 2-4 wire sets to properly extend these or I was thinking maybe some home thermostat wiring that has like 8 in one sheathed covering?
Anyone?
Anyway I installed my hotshot headers back about 4 months ago and installed a dual output 02 simulator from o2sim.com or something close to that.
I thought man this is great no codes to worry about and I got not a single code for like 2-3 months. Then all of a sudden the SES light comes on. I remember someone here on the org. saying that sooner or later this might happen, but I was sure I was the special 2k2 that was going to get by with no problems.
Boy was I wrong and I am now getting the 1154 and 1174 codes which I think are post cat codes. I know the dual O2 simulator is working as the green light blinks like it is functioning normally. But my theory is the these OBDII ECU's, especially in our Nissan cars, are just so damn picky that even a voltage .01 outside of its operating range will trigger the SES light.
I have cleared the ECU with the pedal reset procedures a couple of times only to have it come back within 30-40 miles of regular driving. The strange part is that sometimes it will go out by itself for a couple of days only to return soon after.
I am at the point now where I am going to have to extend these 2 post cat O2s and weld some bungs into the Bpipe. Any suggestions of what kind of wire I should use for proper resistance and heat shielding etc.? I guess I will need 2-4 wire sets to properly extend these or I was thinking maybe some home thermostat wiring that has like 8 in one sheathed covering?
Anyone?
04-17-2006, 08:21 PM
#17
hey Allgo those o2 sims do fail eventually, it has been known to happen..
try disconnecting the battery cables overnight. it's the best way to reset ecu and any stored information. your car will then relearn everything, which is good for the o2sim, make sure you give it a lot of gas.. so it learns faster
try disconnecting the battery cables overnight. it's the best way to reset ecu and any stored information. your car will then relearn everything, which is good for the o2sim, make sure you give it a lot of gas.. so it learns faster
04-18-2006, 04:59 AM
#18
Originally Posted by vipervadim
hey Allgo those o2 sims do fail eventually, it has been known to happen..
try disconnecting the battery cables overnight. it's the best way to reset ecu and any stored information. your car will then relearn everything, which is good for the o2sim, make sure you give it a lot of gas.. so it learns faster
try disconnecting the battery cables overnight. it's the best way to reset ecu and any stored information. your car will then relearn everything, which is good for the o2sim, make sure you give it a lot of gas.. so it learns faster
Or by disconnecting the battery you are saying this resets the ECU And the Simulator? Has this method worked as a long term solution for you and you are getting no SES lights now?
I am hoping so because I am getting quoted like $125 just to weld in 2 bungs in my bpipe, jeez the cost never ends.
Thanks.
04-18-2006, 09:00 AM
#19
yes, disconnecting the battery overnight (couple of hours) it resets all the information (capacitors discharge and any previously stored information is erased)
however if you still see that the o2sim isn't working right (ses is on), disconnect the white signal wires in the o2 and check the voltage each is putting out with a multimeter. (black- ground, white- red, it should be about 0.7v i think)
how did you wire in your 02 sim?
do you have the 02 sims connected, and zip tied on the side or
are you using resistors to fool the heater circuits?
however if you still see that the o2sim isn't working right (ses is on), disconnect the white signal wires in the o2 and check the voltage each is putting out with a multimeter. (black- ground, white- red, it should be about 0.7v i think)
how did you wire in your 02 sim?
do you have the 02 sims connected, and zip tied on the side or
are you using resistors to fool the heater circuits?
04-19-2006, 06:56 AM
#20
I am very interested if it is possible to completely remove the rear O2 sensors.
I used the dual output sim for my sensors and everything was fine for about 4 months. Then I started popping O2 sensor Heater codes. My sim works fine but the other signal wire for the heater circuit is my problem. It sucks to be able to simulate the sensors, then have the heater go bad. I don't want to buy new sensors just to have them hang there. Any progress on finding a solution to the heater sim?
I used the dual output sim for my sensors and everything was fine for about 4 months. Then I started popping O2 sensor Heater codes. My sim works fine but the other signal wire for the heater circuit is my problem. It sucks to be able to simulate the sensors, then have the heater go bad. I don't want to buy new sensors just to have them hang there. Any progress on finding a solution to the heater sim?
04-19-2006, 07:20 AM
#21
Originally Posted by Epacy
Any progress on finding a solution to the heater sim?
Originally Posted by BlackbirdVQ
Basically the resistor will work as a voltage reducer which sits inline the power and ground wires. You need to ohm out the 02 sensor you wanna put the resistor on, so lets say it ohms out to something like 200ohms, you will get a 200ohm resistor, hook up the positive side to one end and negative side to the other end. This resistor will simulate a working HEATER on the 02 sensor.
04-19-2006, 08:11 AM
#22
it is possible to remove the rear O2's completely
i still haven't figured out which resistor combination will get wrid of the heater circuit alltogether. i used a 10-Ohm and a 50-Ohm 10-watt resistors, you also have to place the resistors far away from anything flammable they get very hot when the power to them is connected.
i still haven't figured out which resistor combination will get wrid of the heater circuit alltogether. i used a 10-Ohm and a 50-Ohm 10-watt resistors, you also have to place the resistors far away from anything flammable they get very hot when the power to them is connected.
04-19-2006, 10:20 AM
#23
Originally Posted by vipervadim
it is possible to remove the rear O2's completely
i still haven't figured out which resistor combination will get wrid of the heater circuit alltogether. i used a 10-Ohm and a 50-Ohm 10-watt resistors, you also have to place the resistors far away from anything flammable they get very hot when the power to them is connected.
i still haven't figured out which resistor combination will get wrid of the heater circuit alltogether. i used a 10-Ohm and a 50-Ohm 10-watt resistors, you also have to place the resistors far away from anything flammable they get very hot when the power to them is connected.
04-19-2006, 12:34 PM
#24
Is there ANYONE who is having success on their 2002-2003 Maximas using the dual output O2 simulator? Because I know I am not. The codes AllGo gave are not valid codes, but I would venture to say the code that are being thrown are 1147 and 1167. Mine code throwing is similar to what AllGo is experiencing also (and I think stephen88 too). I have datalogged the voltage coming out of the dual sensor O2 simulator, but can't seem to be datalogging when I throw a code. It is a very random thing.
Here is a shot of the Resistors that I bought. I have not tried them out yet. As soon as I can get a stable baseline to work from (i.e. no CEL's from 1147 & 1167), I will try to install them.
Here is a shot of the Resistors that I bought. I have not tried them out yet. As soon as I can get a stable baseline to work from (i.e. no CEL's from 1147 & 1167), I will try to install them.
04-19-2006, 12:37 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Gapp
I'm going to Radio Snack after work to pick some resistors up. I'll give my .02 after I experiment with em. I can't seem to find any 20 watt , so I'll just get 10 watters. We'll see...
04-19-2006, 02:53 PM
#27
Originally Posted by vipervadim
finally this thread is getting some attention! we should be able to find a working resistor by trial and error.
Thanks to PuppetMaster for linking to this in his post in the 5th Gen forum.
Originally Posted by vipervadim
which ECU codes are occuring on the 2002+?
sensor signal or sensor heater?
sensor signal or sensor heater?
P0138 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1)
P0158 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2)
This is what Larrio had to say on the codes.
Originally Posted by Larrio
P0158 and P0138 probably means your o2 sim is defective, which I had in my case also.
Take a multimeter and check for the oscillating voltage in the white output wire on the o2 sim. It should be from 0 to at LEAST 0.6V on every oscillation. The ECU looks for a voltage range of 0.6V-1.0V for the secondary o2 sensors when the vehicle is running. It throws those two codes when that doesn't happen
Take a multimeter and check for the oscillating voltage in the white output wire on the o2 sim. It should be from 0 to at LEAST 0.6V on every oscillation. The ECU looks for a voltage range of 0.6V-1.0V for the secondary o2 sensors when the vehicle is running. It throws those two codes when that doesn't happen
I remember checking my voltages and they seemed to be in order. I will check them again. The Actron reader has been a real good buy.
04-19-2006, 06:19 PM
#28
Originally Posted by 6spd_Hayes
Is there ANYONE who is having success on their 2002-2003 Maximas using the dual output O2 simulator? Because I know I am not.
04-19-2006, 06:33 PM
#29
Originally Posted by 6spd_Hayes
Is there ANYONE who is having success on their 2002-2003 Maximas using the dual output O2 simulator? Because I know I am not. The codes AllGo gave are not valid codes, but I would venture to say the code that are being thrown are 1147 and 1167. Mine code throwing is similar to what AllGo is experiencing also (and I think stephen88 too). I have datalogged the voltage coming out of the dual sensor O2 simulator, but can't seem to be datalogging when I throw a code. It is a very random thing.
Here is a shot of the Resistors that I bought. I have not tried them out yet. As soon as I can get a stable baseline to work from (i.e. no CEL's from 1147 & 1167), I will try to install them.
Here is a shot of the Resistors that I bought. I have not tried them out yet. As soon as I can get a stable baseline to work from (i.e. no CEL's from 1147 & 1167), I will try to install them.
However I also got 10 slow, a pause then 7-4-5 fast counts and I assume that is a 1745 code but I never found a match in the FSM to that. Anyone else got this code along with the other 2? What are the heater codes that Epacy says he is getting and has anyone else had that issue?
I stand by my original theory that the O2 sim does a fair job of maintaining its target voltage range but if for 1 second it strays outside the range the ECU is looking for you will get these codes.
6spHayes if after experimenting with these resistors you find a cure you have to share it with us who suffer from this. Luckily I passed emissions in GA last Nov when it was my birthday month and that was before I installed the headers. Now I have 7 months to figure this out!
I guess the only real cure is to have these O2's welded into the b pipe after the main cat but for those running a straight pipe that isn't an option either.
04-20-2006, 07:41 AM
#30
I did find a couple of resistors at Radio Snack that may work. One was a 10w 50 ohm, the other was a 10 watt 100 ohm. I'm gonna take my existing o2's out to do the ypipe swap. When I do, I'll ohm the heater out and try to get something, resistor-wise, in the ballpark. Been itching to use the Fieldpiece!!
05-10-2006, 10:29 AM
#32
I haven't had time to experiment much. I had a neighbor who gave me an old 02 sensor out of his Dodge truck to put in the extra bung on my y-pipe to avoid exhaust leaking. I was wondering if I could use the heater circuit on that sensor to to fool the ECM in combination with the sim. Not sure if the resistance is universal among 02 sensors' heater circuits. Anyone feel free to chime in if you have any answers!
05-11-2006, 10:14 AM
#34
so any word?? when my friend installed my o2 sim, he cut off the o2's and just electrical tapped the heater wire... obviously this threw some codes.. i lost one o2 sensor..
has anyone gotten their resistor to work?
has anyone gotten their resistor to work?
05-28-2006, 06:06 PM
#38
Originally Posted by vipervadim
ok after multiple experimenting the 10 and 50 ohm 10 watt sensors from radio shack DO NOT get wrid of the codes.. BUT i will stop by the electronics store in search of some 20watts
05-28-2006, 06:41 PM
#39
Instead of just throwing resistors at it to simulate the heater circuits, why dont' you:
1. just wire the damn O2 heater wires back up and zip tie the sensors somewhere out of the way.
2. If you absolutely insist on getting rid of the sensors altogether, all you need to do is stick a multimeter on the line while the thing is running.
measure voltage and current going into/through the heater circuits. you can then calculate the resistance and power dissipation (wattage) of the heater element. You can then buy the proper resistor to do the job. instead of just throwing money and parts at it hoping to fix it.
Disclaimer: I AM an electrical engineer and prefer to think about things and do a couple calculations before I just starting throwing money at a problem.
Edit.. I just spent about 3 minutes poking through the service manual and found the specified resistance of the heater circuit. your 10 ohm and 50 ohm guesses are WAY off. do some reading and try again.
1. just wire the damn O2 heater wires back up and zip tie the sensors somewhere out of the way.
2. If you absolutely insist on getting rid of the sensors altogether, all you need to do is stick a multimeter on the line while the thing is running.
measure voltage and current going into/through the heater circuits. you can then calculate the resistance and power dissipation (wattage) of the heater element. You can then buy the proper resistor to do the job. instead of just throwing money and parts at it hoping to fix it.
Disclaimer: I AM an electrical engineer and prefer to think about things and do a couple calculations before I just starting throwing money at a problem.
Edit.. I just spent about 3 minutes poking through the service manual and found the specified resistance of the heater circuit. your 10 ohm and 50 ohm guesses are WAY off. do some reading and try again.
