Full DE-K motor swap complete!
08-11-2005, 09:55 AM
#1
Full DE-K motor swap complete!
I just finished swapping the DE-K motor into my 98. Some of you may have seen my other threads about my old motor that got hydrolocked. I this DE-K motor for $550 with 7k miles.
Everything seems to be working perfectly except I am not using any IACV, the A32 IACV is pluged in electrically but not getting any vacuum. It idles fine after adjusting a few things but I still plan on making a plate for the A32 IACV or just buying one from someone here. My tach seems to be acting up, it does not read the correct RPM when the car is cold.
Ill have some more pics later.
Everything seems to be working perfectly except I am not using any IACV, the A32 IACV is pluged in electrically but not getting any vacuum. It idles fine after adjusting a few things but I still plan on making a plate for the A32 IACV or just buying one from someone here. My tach seems to be acting up, it does not read the correct RPM when the car is cold.
Ill have some more pics later.
08-11-2005, 10:51 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
That's funny about the tach signal. Nothing about the DE-K is different in that respect.
... he has the 00VI and all. Nice chief. All you need is an aftermarket ECU and start sending those FI 4 cylinders home.
08-11-2005, 11:34 AM
#11
Damn right on the side of the srteet, thats dedication nice...
Btw you had no trouble with the law doing that?
What was the reason why you didn't go full 3.5?
I was going to do that swap but when I heard about the 3.5 swap, I had to jump on it, the best swap hands down...
Btw you had no trouble with the law doing that?
What was the reason why you didn't go full 3.5?
I was going to do that swap but when I heard about the 3.5 swap, I had to jump on it, the best swap hands down...
on the roadside engine swap
08-11-2005, 02:19 PM
#19
The reason for not going with the 3.5 is because I wanted to do the swap on my own and it probably would just be too difficult for me to do, also, I needed a running car asap. This was my first motor swap and im surprised that everything seems to be okay. Maybe later I will do a 3.5 but plans now is to put the nitrous back in and maybe get a blower 
Yes its a 5psd, new Spec Stage II clutch
Yes its a 5psd, new Spec Stage II clutch
08-11-2005, 02:35 PM
#20
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Vq35 swap isn't that hard as long as you get Tilley to drill the cams. I'm mostly a noob wrench and I did the swap myself. Took a while but got it done.
Do you feel the difference between regular 3.0 and De-K 3.0?
Do you feel the difference between regular 3.0 and De-K 3.0?
...
08-11-2005, 02:43 PM
#22
Most likely I would have been able to do the 3.5 swap but its a bit more to figure out and I didnt have the time. I didnt really start beating on the motor yet, Ill give it about 500-800 miles for the clutch to break in and also the engine, plus the RPM switch for the VI is still on the way.
08-11-2005, 03:50 PM
#23
Congrats on the swap, my Max needs a new engine soon...
Just curious what points did you bolt the engine hoist chains to lift the motor out of the engine bay? Also im guessing you unbolted and dropped the tranny as well?
Reason I ask is that I don't feel comfortable removing the engine by taking it out from under the car, like some shops do. Id rather do it the way you did and not worry about jacking the car up that high.
Just curious what points did you bolt the engine hoist chains to lift the motor out of the engine bay? Also im guessing you unbolted and dropped the tranny as well?
Reason I ask is that I don't feel comfortable removing the engine by taking it out from under the car, like some shops do. Id rather do it the way you did and not worry about jacking the car up that high.
08-11-2005, 07:14 PM
#26
Originally Posted by 98SEBlackMax
Congrats on the swap, my Max needs a new engine soon...
Just curious what points did you bolt the engine hoist chains to lift the motor out of the engine bay? Also im guessing you unbolted and dropped the tranny as well?
Reason I ask is that I don't feel comfortable removing the engine by taking it out from under the car, like some shops do. Id rather do it the way you did and not worry about jacking the car up that high.
Just curious what points did you bolt the engine hoist chains to lift the motor out of the engine bay? Also im guessing you unbolted and dropped the tranny as well?
Reason I ask is that I don't feel comfortable removing the engine by taking it out from under the car, like some shops do. Id rather do it the way you did and not worry about jacking the car up that high.
08-11-2005, 08:21 PM
#29
Originally Posted by SonicDust187
Also, what did you have to rewire?
08-11-2005, 08:43 PM
#30
Anyone know the purpose of the Fuel Rail Off-Fitting? I have seen it mentioned before, from what I can understand, it is needed because 00-01s have an intank fuel filter so the fitting replaces the regulater on the fuel rail. If someone can help me out with this, that would be great.
08-11-2005, 10:53 PM
#32
I don't think you can get the engine out the top with the trans still attached. Maybe you can but it'd be close. I removed the trans. Trans removal takes all of an hour or so.
Nice work on the swap. It never even occurred to me to swap in a DE-K when I did my new engine until like literally a few minutes after I had purchased the DE... then I was like WTF did I do that for?! Good job swappin, and the streetside engine pull is awesome haha.
Nice work on the swap. It never even occurred to me to swap in a DE-K when I did my new engine until like literally a few minutes after I had purchased the DE... then I was like WTF did I do that for?! Good job swappin, and the streetside engine pull is awesome haha.
08-12-2005, 06:25 AM
#34
Yea, forgot about the in engine bay pic, remember right after I dropped the motor in 
Did anyone use the stock MAP/Baro solenoid valve and EVAP solenoid valve? I plugged the stock harness into the 5th gen ones which are located on the VI manifold.
I am having some problems, the tach gets jumpy but the engine RPM is fine then sometimes the car shuts off and will not start up right away, have to wait at least 5 min and it starts up. Seems like it is the crank sensor I will check that out today or maybe because there is no IACV. I scanned for codes and im getting no O2 sensor circuit activity, Map/BARO switch circuit and Fuel Temp Sensor circuit malfunction-?? Im going to work on the codes today and see if I can get it all sorted out.
Did anyone use the stock MAP/Baro solenoid valve and EVAP solenoid valve? I plugged the stock harness into the 5th gen ones which are located on the VI manifold.
I am having some problems, the tach gets jumpy but the engine RPM is fine then sometimes the car shuts off and will not start up right away, have to wait at least 5 min and it starts up. Seems like it is the crank sensor I will check that out today or maybe because there is no IACV. I scanned for codes and im getting no O2 sensor circuit activity, Map/BARO switch circuit and Fuel Temp Sensor circuit malfunction-?? Im going to work on the codes today and see if I can get it all sorted out.
08-12-2005, 09:56 AM
#36
Originally Posted by foobeca
What's an approximate 1/4 mile time with the 00vi or a DE-K swap on a 4th gen 5spd?
08-12-2005, 10:20 AM
#37
Originally Posted by deezo
I don't think anyone has run besides Krismax and that was with the 00VI'd VQ30DE.
08-12-2005, 11:43 AM
#38
Originally Posted by foobeca
OMG, I just saw his sig and it said 13.82s for the 00vi. That's faster than a 5th gen 3.5L.
08-12-2005, 11:03 PM
#39
Originally Posted by foobeca
OMG, I just saw his sig and it said 13.82s for the 00vi. That's
faster than a 5th gen 3.5L.
faster than a 5th gen 3.5L.
08-13-2005, 08:44 AM
#40
Originally Posted by deezo
But his car has crazy weight reduction also. That's the thing with comparing modified cars that don't have the same configuration, you can't.
It seems to me that the top end power of the 00vi combined with mods would work wonders for the 4th gen 1/4 mile time.