eng92

iTrader: (3)

Engine will not be going in till the Cattman headers arrive (~ 6 weeks I hope)
I have taken care of all the electrical issues beforehand to minimize downtime once I pull the existing engine.

Here is what I "trimmed" from an 03 main (dash) harness. This part will not be used.


That is about 10.5 lbs of spaghetti.

The remaining portion which I will be using weighs only a couple of pounds.

I wired everything (engine, ecu, e-gas and the immobilizer) up on the bench today and put power to it. It was nice to see the security light go out when I flipped my ignition switch to the ON position. I really didn't want to have to take everything to the dealer and have them reprogram the key, immobilizer and ecm.

The e-gas is operating correctly. My Auterra OBD-II scanner connected with the ECM without any problems. As I only had the throttle control motor plugged in, there is quite a list of codes stored.

It was nice to enable fast sampling on the Auterra and have it work which is something that you couldn't do on the 4th gen ecm. This was verified by monitoring throttle position as I moved the accelerator pedal.

I will not lie and say that what I have done so far is easy. It took about 8 hours to "prune" the 03 dash harness. There was another 8 hours making and re-working some connectors that the wreckers had cut off.

Now that the electrical is sorted out, I will be doing a partial teardown of the engine to verify its "health" while I am waiting on the headers to arrive.

I will post dynos when complete.

Sorry for the verbosity, I just thought that I would present yet another swap option.

l3ftonm3

iTrader: (2)

soo many wires, looks like a 3.0 to 3.5 swap painting with maxima parts.

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

Nice, looks like fun...

Being an Electronics person I would rather go this route than tear down a VQ35 and modify it for 4th gen ECU use. In due time Im looking to swap out my VQ30 for a full on VQ35 with 6 speed transmisson and VQ35 ECU.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

That's exactly what I said when I opened the box. Except I had everything in the front half of the car (47 pounds of wiring). I gave up on that route and went with the VQ35/VQ30 ECU route. Much more straightforward.

The advantage of going with the VQ35 ECU is that it runs more advance in stock form, and has VTC (Variable Timing Control).

I may be able to get the same advantages with an OBDI conversion, what is what I'm considering right now. 90-93 300zx ECU can support VTC, and the guy said he'd perfectly adopt fuel & timing maps to the VQ35DE. Ease of tuning comes to mind, as does money.

If that does work it could be an alternative to the 2k2 wiring swap, and get similar/better results.

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

Ive done more intensive wiring projects for work, wiring like that doesn't scare me. At an old job I had to help design and wire up a 512 channel laser diode burn in rack, when all said and done it had about 10 miles of wire in a space of a couple of household freezers. And all of this at the age of 19. After that job I no longer have a fear of wires...

As far as tuning goes I have my system that allows me to change the timing, air/fuel, and many other parameters to whatever I wish and keep my stock OBD-2 ECU.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Well I'm selling a 2k2 engine wiring harness if you're interested.

Most people don't consider rewiring an entire car "easy", and unfortunately I am one of them.

Including removing speed limiter, rev limiter, ignition timing advance, control VTCs, keep E-gas from opening at less than 100% at high RPMs? On a 2002+? Do it then, that's awesome.

Even if you like spending hours rewiring your car, the price of the ODBI conversion + tuning is less than what it cost me for the 02 wiring and ECU, and even there I would still be stuck with stock tuning. If that route does work for me, it would save some money and get the same results.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

No one, that I am aware of, is going or went that route except for Vasily.

I am retaining the stock 98 dash and engine room harnesses. The 02/03 engine control harness and ecu are plug and play. The only parts of the 02/03 dash harness that I am using are the e-gas, immobilizer, data link and EC harness connections.

I also retained the 02/03 instrument cluster connections as I got a good deal on an 03 gauge cluster.

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

Ive looked into it and right now I don't have the cash for it. Also im going to see how far I can push the 2K VI equipped VQ30 with the SMT-6. Probally when this motor dies I will consider the swap. Re-wiring any car won't be easy, its going to require alot of work. But I have a garage and winter is about 6 months long here...

I was talking about my current setup, I dont know if it will work on a 2k2 ECU. But if I was to convert to a 2k2 alot of those things can be accomplished with a TS L-Spec ECU for about $400. Timing advance and air/fuel are the most important and i will have control over that with the SMT.

I had the same idea a little while back, running a 300zx ECU in a 4th gen maxima with a VQ35. But for emissons reasons in my state I avoid any OBD-I system like the plauge and the '96 300ZX ECUs don't have VTCs. An Infiniti J30 ECU might be another option I might look into, IIRC they have VTCs and were made up until '97 using OBD-II systems.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Well good luck anyway. Since emissions don't matter up here in Canada I'll probably be getting it converted in a few weeks. The guy wants to use a 1990-1993 300zx ECU (OBDI, VTC) and adjust the maps to the VQ35.

I'll get him to bump the Rev Limiter to 7300 (I'll probably only be using 7000, but you never know what the future holds), removing any speed limiter, adjusting A/F to 13.0 up to 5000 rpm and roughly 13.5 between 5000 and 7300, and advance the crap out of the timing (the VQ35 heads allow more timing).

eng92

iTrader: (3)

Speak for your own province JClaw. We have had mandatory bi-annual emissions testing in Southern and Eastern Ontario for 6 years now.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Well even if we do get that here someone in the future, my car is a 1995, which means I can get away from OBDI. I guess having an old car doesn't have only downsides.

MyownNismo

iTrader: (13)

So are you talking about still using the 3.5 ecu just to run the engine and use your ecu to run the rest of the car. Thus making it so you don't have to swap parts to get it to work.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

The way the testing is done here is that they feed your VIN into the machine and it prints out what your car came with from the factory and what your CO, HC and NOx limits are. If your car came OBD-II from the factory, that would be in the machines vehicle database.
However from what I can tell, they are not scanning for codes. They just run the vehicle on the rollers and use a tailpipe sniffer to check your emissions.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

There seems to be a popular misconception that the ecu does a whole lot more than run the engine and its related systems.

That is simply not the case.

The A32 ecu will not be used.

The only parts I am swapping are:
- engine complete w/ harness
- ecu, immobilizer & key (from same vehicle)
- fuel pump assembly w/ regulator
- gauge cluster
- 03 gas pedal w/sensor
- a very small portion (<5%) of the 03 main wiring harness to connect the above components together

Ninos_Maxima

iTrader: (5)

Sorry Im confused, but Are you going to do a combo ECU or just use the A33 ecu?

^So the A32 ECU doesnt controll things such as Climate controll, and all the other indash items?

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

That's what the BCM (Body Control Module) is for. The ECU mainly just runs the engine. If it's an automatic then there's also an ATM for the tranny.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Once you get everything to work, you should send it to Painless or some other company to produce these.

Zack342

iTrader: (89)

nice work dave. keep it up

vsamoylov

i still have to read this thread so dont flame me cause i skipped something. but there isnt alot of rewiring to do when you do the swap like i did. everything is mostly interior like doors and the lighting. i never messed around with engine rewiring and anything under the dash. i even kept the 2k2 climate control so i wouldnt have to rewire.
also you said you are suing 2k2 fuel pump wih regulator. will it fit in 4th gen tank? i have a spare and want to try it.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

I guess your definition of "rewire" differs from mine. From what I understand, you replaced most or all the original wiring harnesses in your car with those from the 2K2. In my mind, that is re-wiring the entire car.

The only wiring harness I am replacing is the one for engine control, EC (for obvious reasons) All the other original harnesses will remain. I will have to make a few wire splices as there are some connections between the EC harness and the engine room and main (dash) harnesses.

As I mentioned to you in a previous thread, the plastic fuel pickup baffle on a 4th gen is different from a 2k2. I am going to modify my existing tank to accept the baffle and mount from a 2K3 tank I have. The pump assembly mounting flanges are the same.

vsamoylov

i meant rewire by splicing and adding on. i only did that to some thigns like the doors. everything else i just replaced like take the old out and out the new one in. no cutting the wires at all except in some areas.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

There seems to be a bit of confusion about how little wiring is actually required for a full swap. The picture in the first post is what I discarded. The one below is all that remains.



Of course the full engine harness is required but that is for the most part plug and play.

Once I do a test fit and trim it down so it fits properly, I will ziptube and tape it up.
I will draw up a schematic once I have everything installed and running.

I installed the 03 gauge cluster this past weekend.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=404248

I plan on installing the 03 pump assembly in my tank in the next week or so. The stock FPR on the 98 fuel rail and the return line should take care of the extra pressure the 03 pump/fpr puts out.

I am getting pretty anxious to pull the 3.0 and get this project underway but I am not going there until the headers are here. I am trying to minimize the amount of time I have to spend driving my winter beater (94 Tempo)

vsamoylov

you see what i think is that people are scared to do electrical and rewiring becasue they think there is alot to do but there isnt really. and they also think that messing around with internals is easier also. for me i rather do electrical instead of internals.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

What internals? It takes about 4-5 hours of work to prep the 3.5 to go in. You just gotta use the 3.0 timing chain and covers. That's it. Then you pull the 3.0 out, drop the 3.5 in, plug the harness in, and you're ready to go. Nobody's messing around with internals here. Any dumb@ss with a wrench is up to it. Even me

Tilley's way is undeniably more straightforward if you know what you're doing. Minus pulling out the 3.0 and dropping the 3.5 in, it takes about 4-5 hours of work. Rewiring and cutting down the fat on the 2k2 harness, install everything, and start up the car, is certainly more than 4-5 hours.

Props to you guys for going the other way, but after trying both it's clear to me that my final choice is much less time consuming. I can see why you would want to run the 2k2 ECU, but I believe I have a substitute for it.

Ninos_Maxima

iTrader: (5)

^what substitue? im curious what your setup is going to be?

GoalieKeg

iTrader: (4)

His OBDI setup using a completely remapped 300zx ecu.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Don't make that present tense, it's not in yet.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

What about the crank/cam sensors (total of 3) from the 4th gen? The Z32 ECU cannot read those.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

We will see about that.

GoalieKeg

iTrader: (4)

I have full confidence in you.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

See, now you're putting weight on my shoulders

liqidvenom

iTrader: (6)

i really cant wait to see this project up and running once u are done with it. and if u have a writeup of some sort i would love to see it once your finished since i might really want to follow your path of doing this swap.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Well I don't know if you guys saw my post but the track numbers are in (we'll have to wait for a dyno). I am running consistant 13.8-13.6's on street tires at 103-104.5 Mph in the 1/4 mile. This is without the remapped 300zx ECU. I am still using the stock, untuned 95 ECU with its sh*tty @ss timing and most likely so-so A/F. I don't think it would have been worth going with the 2k2 ECU at this point and I am glad I went the less complicated way.

steph01

I want a 4th gen with this swap, but don't wan't an '97 or less.
SO the less complicated way, is not the way for me.......*??$&*(*(&....

A standalone engine management is the way that I'm looking for .

I'm trying to find someone here who got a full standalone...not the Greddy, not the SAFC. SOmething doing everything, from spark to air/fuel.

vsamoylov

picky arent we? the 95-96 max are the best.

steph01

the best for the swap ????

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

I agree that 95-96s look better except for the front bumper. I like the rear end better than the 97-99 and the grill too. Just do like me and use a 99 bumper with the 95 grill. Fill the gaps and it looks real good. 95-96 are also lighter.

Studio718

iTrader: (2)

just give me 4 weeks and I'll show you my standalone engine managment system

j_bryan

iTrader: (1)

eng92 please keep us posted on the progress of your project. it will be interesting to see how the gains from this swap compare to the 3.5/3.0 ECU others have done.

BTW, are you planning to swap your tranny?

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

turbo97se is running AEM EMS standalone on his turbo 4th gen. That is the only stanalone running 4th gen that I know of.