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Big headache here (3.5 swap). Anybody's help appreciated (Tilley, SR20DEN.

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Old 03-20-2005, 11:05 PM
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It doesn't look too good up close, but when looking at the engine bay, you would see the TB with two pieces of metal running along its length and the TPS in the center. No bolts visible.
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Old 03-21-2005, 11:01 AM
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OT, but did you ever check your rear spark plugs? the 5.5 gen guys are having problems of leaky rear valve covers, and oil gets into the rear spark plug chambers. I found oil in my chambers, but instead of buying a new VC, I was thinking of using my 3.0 VC, it would save me $40 but I would have to reuse the 3.0 coils.
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Old 03-21-2005, 11:34 AM
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No I haven't checked the rear, only the front.

Another thing. Tilley said "coil packs are the same just plug 'em in". But problem is, the front coil packs on the 3.0 have only 2 wires while the rear have 3 wires on the 3.0.. On the 3.5, all 6 packs have 3 wires. Did you find a way around this? I wouldn't know which wire to plug into which.
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Old 03-22-2005, 02:21 PM
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if you still need any help feel free to ask man. kinda sucks that you decided to go the other route. i think this happend cause you decided to use altima parts instead of maxima parts. for example the e-gas pedal, the 2k2 max bolts in place without a problem using the same hardware.
 
Old 03-22-2005, 04:28 PM
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I think it happened mostly because I didn't have an entire parts car like yours.

But you've been helpful either way, when it comes to making my decision.

Tell me when you decide to hit the track, I'd like to compare your times to Tilley's or mine if I ever get it working.
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Old 03-22-2005, 09:46 PM
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Small Update:

I converted my TB to cable drive (see Nismo's much more informative thread about it here: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=388350), and made brackets for the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).





Kinda crude, but it gets the job done, and it's fairly strong with enough clearange for the 3.0 cable bracket to move. TPS will read fine, the metal piece pushes the other perfectly.

And yes, it's a universal fact that my pictures suck.

Tomorrow I open both timing chain covers and plug the rest of the 4th gen wiring harness to the 3.5.

I think I have a better idea of what "timing template" SR20DEN was referring to. I think it spins in front of the cam sensor and it reads the signal. Something like that.

If all goes like I want to, I should be able to fire it up sometime next week.
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Old 03-22-2005, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JClaw
No I haven't checked the rear, only the front.

Another thing. Tilley said "coil packs are the same just plug 'em in". But problem is, the front coil packs on the 3.0 have only 2 wires while the rear have 3 wires on the 3.0.. On the 3.5, all 6 packs have 3 wires. Did you find a way around this? I wouldn't know which wire to plug into which.
All of my coil pack plugs have 3 wires going to them. Maybe its different for the Canadian Maximas.
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Old 03-22-2005, 09:50 PM
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yeah you suck with pictures. can you take some better ones further away. so it looks liek you stuck the tps into the 5.5 gen throttle body?
 
Old 03-22-2005, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Nismo3112
All of my coil pack plugs have 3 wires going to them. Maybe its different for the Canadian Maximas.
One more reason why Canada sucks

Perhaps I'll just leave rear coil packs on the 3.5, and use 3.0 up front.

Even if it was working, I wouldn't really drive it. There's still snow up here, and April's almost there.

Originally Posted by vsamoylov
yeah you suck with pictures. can you take some better ones further away. so it looks liek you stuck the tps into the 5.5 gen throttle body?
Lol, I'll take some more tomorrow.

Basically, the 3.0 TPS turns on the wrong side compared to the 3.5 throttle body, so you have to put it on the same side as the cable bracket for it to read correctly and make some brackets with razor sharp metal pieces that constantly cut your fingers. It's a lot of fun.

I'd rather f*ck a box of nails than do it again.
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Old 03-23-2005, 02:16 PM
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I knew this would happen, but I'm sad to see you give up. I wish I/we could help you out more, but you're the PIONEER here so you're pretty much on your own.

The functioning VTCs aren't worth the 2K2+ eGas, ECU, harness, etc. wiring headaches IMHO.

I think you should take a week off and come back fresh at finishing off. Sounds like you're beyond the point of frustration and just spinning your wheels man.

Good luck~!
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Old 03-23-2005, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JClaw
One more reason why Canada sucks

Perhaps I'll just leave rear coil packs on the 3.5, and use 3.0 up front.

Even if it was working, I wouldn't really drive it. There's still snow up here, and April's almost there.



Lol, I'll take some more tomorrow.

Basically, the 3.0 TPS turns on the wrong side compared to the 3.5 throttle body, so you have to put it on the same side as the cable bracket for it to read correctly and make some brackets with razor sharp metal pieces that constantly cut your fingers. It's a lot of fun.

I'd rather f*ck a box of nails than do it again.
Im sorry but theres a reason why tilley is doing it the way he is .
As soon as i got to his shop i saw why its done the way he does it.
VTC is a joke even the fastest hondas get rid of vtech and why bother with the 3.5 TB when the pathy one is the same size and works beautiful.I make adapter plates in my kichen very simple.

when tilleys done with my car many of you will forget the 3.5 ecu<
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Old 03-23-2005, 03:35 PM
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I saved $200 by modifying the 3.5 TB. Thats why.
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Old 03-23-2005, 04:44 PM
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Today I only worked on it for 1.5 hours. I almost opened the 3.0 timing chain cover, did some more tweaking to the TB, and removed more of the 3.5 wiring. Should be done by 9 AM tomorrow. The 3.5 cover will be off tomorrow morning too.

I'm still not sure what Sr20Den meant by "timing template". I can see the 3.0 cam sensor is right in front of a gear, no "plate" in sight. Maybe I'll have a better idea once I fully open both up.

On a positive note, I was wrong, all 6 coils are direct plug
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Old 03-23-2005, 08:57 PM
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The signals that the 3.0 cam sensor reads are on the big LH side timing sprocket. Looking at it, it would be rather difficult to duplicate the correct readings.
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Old 03-23-2005, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Nismo3112
I saved $200 by modifying the 3.5 TB. Thats why.
I bought mine for $75 dollers and can have a perfect TPS setting . Go cheap with these projects and youll be upset later.
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Old 03-23-2005, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Nismo3112
The signals that the 3.0 cam sensor reads are on the big LH side timing sprocket. Looking at it, it would be rather difficult to duplicate the correct readings.
I agree and i would like SR or someone to disconnect their vtc while doing a dyno to prove to us whither the vtc is affecting HP levels to the point where its a must have.

I would not go thru the VTC trouble for 10whp everywhere
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Old 03-23-2005, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by krismax
I bought mine for $75 dollers and can have a perfect TPS setting . Go cheap with these projects and youll be upset later.
If I would have found one for $75, I would have went with that route. The ones I find are close to $200. For me, money determines everything. On my TB, the TPS rotates freely with the TB rod, and has room for any adjustment needed. I do not see anything that could go wrong with it.
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Old 03-23-2005, 10:17 PM
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Same here. Tilley did this too and his car is fine.
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Old 03-23-2005, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by krismax
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
The signals that the 3.0 cam sensor reads are on the big LH side timing sprocket. Looking at it, it would be rather difficult to duplicate the correct readings.
I agree and i would like SR or someone to disconnect their vtc while doing a dyno to prove to us whither the vtc is affecting HP levels to the point where its a must have.

I would not go thru the VTC trouble for 10whp everywhere
I don't get it. You seem to think I'm still going to use the 2002 ECU and VTCs. I'm doing like Tilley, 3.0 ecu, just like you, except that I'm trying to keep the 3.5 chains and use 3.0 cam sensor.

Originally Posted by Nismo3112
The signals that the 3.0 cam sensor reads are on the big LH side timing sprocket. Looking at it, it would be rather difficult to duplicate the correct readings.
I'm not going to "duplicate" them. The sensor seems to be right in front of a gear, and there seems to be an identical gear on the 3.5 at the same exact position. I'll open both up completely tomorrow and tell you guys what I make of it.

BTW, what do you mean by "big LH side timing sprocket"? Are you talking about the gear in front of the cam sensor?
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:08 AM
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These bumps, or inclines, is what the cam sensor reads.. Completely different than what is in that spot on the 3.5:

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Old 03-24-2005, 11:55 AM
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Yeah I opened both up completely today (pulled the 3.5 back out, you can't fully remove the timing chain cover while in the car on the 3.5).

What's worse is that the 3.0 timing chain cover won't fit on the 3.5 since the 3.5 gears go so far out.

Originally Posted by SR20DEN
A new timing template has to be made for it to read.
If our VQ Wizard could step up and give me some advice it'd be great, because I really don't see how it can be done while keeping the 3.5 chains, and gears. I'm 100% positive that the 3.5 timing cover NEEDS to be used if I do keep the 3.5 chains, because of how far the gears stretch out like I said earlier.

I guess It'd be possible to drill a hole about 1-inch in diameter in the 3.5 timing chain cover to place the 3.0 cam sensor pretty much where it would be on the 3.0; right in front of a cam gear (or 'sprocket', if you want to call it that).

Then, we'd need to make the same symbols stand out like on the 3.0 gears (nismo's pic: http://img126.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img1...ngcover7vl.png).

Honestly that's kind of iffy. I'd really like to be the first to do it your way SR, since the 3.0 can still be sold and I wouldn't have to open up my heads and pay someone to drill the cams. It'd save money, but it's hard to tell what you have in mind, let alone get a general idea of it.

Also I'm not sure about adding weight on one of the two main cam gears while leaving all the others intact. Might throw something off balance...
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I think you should take a week off and come back fresh at finishing off. Sounds like you're beyond the point of frustration and just spinning your wheels man.
I think that's what I'm gonna do. Let it cool down for a few days. Otherwise
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:05 PM
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Yeah, the VQ35 VTC pulleys on the intake cams require a VQ35 timing cover.

However, can't you simply replace the VQ35 VTC pulleys with VQ30 cam sprockets and JWT cam spacers and use the VQ30 timing cover like japmaxSE did?
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:08 PM
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Oops...you'd still need to drill the new dowl pin holes on the intake cams.
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:37 PM
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My setup:

3.5 Tilley cams, JWT spacers, 3.5 heads, 3.5 block (duh)
3.0 timing gears, chains, covers
3.0 Oil pan

Everything will bolt up almost, and the 3.0 cam sensor will read.
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:46 PM
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You'll need the 3.0 crank pulley also.

Originally Posted by Nismo3112
My setup:

3.5 Tilley cams, JWT spacers, 3.5 heads, 3.5 block (duh)
3.0 timing gears, chains, covers
3.0 Oil pan

Everything will bolt up almost, and the 3.0 cam sensor will read.
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:52 PM
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^correct. 123456
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:54 PM
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When you say "Everything will bolt up almost", what is the almost part?
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Old 03-24-2005, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
When you say "Everything will bolt up almost", what is the almost part?
These 2 rear timing cover bolt holes need to be enlarged in order for the 3.0 rear timing cover to be bolted to the 3.5 heads. (this was me test fitting the cover on the 3.5)
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Old 03-24-2005, 01:56 PM
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THANKS for the picture...I hope more people doing these swaps can post more of the modification steps necessary.

How did you enlarge them?

Could you just leave them removed or would there be sealing or other issues?
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:00 PM
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I wonder if you could use the smaller bolts and a sleeve instead of enlarging the bolt holes on the 3.5. I assume when enlarging, you have to drill and retap. seems like a pain
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:02 PM
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I haven't enlarged them yet, but a reaming bit w/ a Dremel will do the trick.

It's only 2 bolts, but it could possibly cause sealing issues, I would be more comfortable if the bolts were in there.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:02 PM
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Ahhh...good idea Jeff.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:04 PM
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Actually, it's just the cover hole that needs widened, so the dremel idea when the cover is off plus using the VQ35 two bolts should work, right?
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:06 PM
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Yup. just enlarge the hole that the bolt goes through on the 3.0 timing cover so it lines up with the threaded hole on the head. You don't need to do anything to the head.

The 3.0 timing cover bolts will work too, as they are identical.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:09 PM
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Okay, originally I thought you were enlarging the threaded hole into the heads.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:10 PM
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EXCEPT those above two...is what you mean, right?

Originally Posted by Nismo3112
The 3.0 timing cover bolts will work too, as they are identical.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:15 PM
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^^ All of the bolts are the same shape, length, and size.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
You'll need the 3.0 crank pulley also.
I bought a motostorm UDP, which fits either 3.0 or 3.5 cars. But on 3.5L you have to remove the timing ring. If I use 3.0 timing chain, I guess I'll have to use the timing ring right?
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:30 PM
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Then why does the SAME bolt fit through the VQ35 rear timing cover, but not through the VQ30 rear timing cover.

I'm still missing the picture, I guess.

Originally Posted by Nismo3112
^^ All of the bolts are the same shape, length, and size.
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