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All Motor All Motor Advanced Performance. Talk about Engine Swaps, Internal Engine work. Not your basic Y pipe and Intake Information.

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Old 04-05-2004, 10:21 PM   #81
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Does someone have the pictures from my350z.com I have been trying to get on their forever and I can't, you have to be a member
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Old 04-06-2004, 12:41 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icemax
how about valve clearance, any issues there?
That's the same question I have. I am in the prrocess of building an engine right now, it's down to nuts and bolts. If I can drop in this setup that would be great.

-Chris
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Old 04-06-2004, 05:25 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
93mm 3.0L
94.5mm 3.5L

Nice discovery Dixit. It will be interesting to see how this will work out!

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Old 04-06-2004, 05:27 AM   #84
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so how much more power do you think doing this will gain? approximately?
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Old 04-06-2004, 06:10 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oxidizer2k
now... who can figure out to get better gas milage?


Buy a Geo Metro, over 30MPG
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Old 04-06-2004, 10:33 AM   #86
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wow thats amazing, def. a BAD *** discovery!!!...looks like i'm goin to have to switch out some engine parts with my sisters VQ35 engine with mine, without her knowing LOL
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Old 04-06-2004, 10:56 AM   #87
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I dont know much about this stuff but I plan on reving really high and what would be the result if you used the 3.5 block and pistons and 3.0 crank and rods . Thanks
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Old 04-06-2004, 11:01 AM   #88
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SkyMaxGTR, if you do that then you and your sister will have almost the same size engines because you will destroke her engine bring it down to like 3.2-3.3L.

krismax: Wont be an issue as long as you stay below the 7200rpm level.

Dixit
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Old 04-06-2004, 11:22 AM   #89
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You'd be fine up to 8000rpm, since the piston speed would be equivalent to a stock VQ35 stroke at 7200rpm.


Quote:
Originally Posted by krismax
I dont know much about this stuff but I plan on reving really high and what would be the result if you used the 3.5 block and pistons and 3.0 crank and rods . Thanks
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:52 PM   #90
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What's the status on this? Does the car run?

~THT
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:07 PM   #91
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I think they were just playing around, it was 2 peoples seperate parts.
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:28 PM   #92
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I wana know because I think I can have this done for the cost of labor but will only do it if it's proven to work.

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Old 04-19-2004, 08:33 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THT
I wana know because I think I can have this done for the cost of labor but will only do it if it's proven to work.

~THT


I also want to know if everything is ok, and all you need is just the crankshafts and the rods from the VQ35 and nothing else. This will be my summer project if all goes through. Auto + MEVI + 3.3L = fun
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:37 PM   #94
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Easy there cheetahs. My main job is a software analyst, not a fulltime mechanic.

Dixit
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:48 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Easy there cheetahs. My main job is a software analyst, not a fulltime mechanic.

Dixit

come on now dixit, you know you are supposed to dedicate all your free time to the .org. j/k

if this setup works i know what i'll be saving up for all summer.
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Old 04-19-2004, 10:08 PM   #96
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i have an extra vq in the garage right now. hehehe!
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:22 PM   #97
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Kudos all involved. New to the Vq, this is going to be a great improvement when I rebuild later this year. Keep posting. this is a great thread.
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Old 04-20-2004, 09:26 PM   #98
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I love it! I'll be attempting to sell/trade my max in for one with a stick....this would be great to do!
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:26 AM   #99
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This is going to be good hopefully. Thank goodness I only have to pay for parts. Big props Dixit
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Old 04-21-2004, 11:57 AM   #100
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Anyone have a ballpark range of how much this would cost for a shop to install the cranks + rods?
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Old 04-21-2004, 12:38 PM   #101
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Shop charges can vary alot due to the complexity of the build according to them.

I see shops charging normally $1000 at least just to remove the engine and tear it down. Then you talking about getting a VQ35 so you can steal the parts from which will run anywhere from 500-1000. No point in ordering it from a dealer since it will be more than a new engine. Then need new bearing seals, rod bearings, etc.

The cost of this is probably going to run in excess of $3000 in my opinion if you get a shop to do this.

Do it yourself and probably look around 1000-1500.

Dixit
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Old 04-21-2004, 12:47 PM   #102
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Ive located the parts (crankshafts + rods) for under 500. I can get a whole VQ35 for under 900.

So what other parts are needed? bearing seals? whats else?

All im worried about is labor costs. But Im sure i can find a shop to do it for a good price.
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:23 PM   #103
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I dont have the pricing on seals and bearings, but you talking about all the crank bearings, cap bearing, rod bearings, front and rear engine seals, and other misc items that will have to be replaced since you are that deep into the mess. Not to mention depending on your motor condition possibly new Piston rings, oil rings and probably hone the cylinder walls.

You may be able to find a shop at good price, but im still thinking no normal performance shop is going to do this all for less than 1500-2000 in just labor. I know you looking at at least 10hrs they will probably charge in just engine rebuilding time not to mention the engine removal and inserting times.

Dixit
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:33 PM   #104
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Hmmmnnn.....

I guess it would be better to just swap the VQ35 short block and just use VQ30 heads.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
I dont have the pricing on seals and bearings, but you talking about all the crank bearings, cap bearing, rod bearings, front and rear engine seals, and other misc items that will have to be replaced since you are that deep into the mess. Not to mention depending on your motor condition possibly new Piston rings, oil rings and probably hone the cylinder walls.

You may be able to find a shop at good price, but im still thinking no normal performance shop is going to do this all for less than 1500-2000 in just labor. I know you looking at at least 10hrs they will probably charge in just engine rebuilding time not to mention the engine removal and inserting times.

Dixit
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:38 PM   #105
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sounds like it....
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:47 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Hmmmnnn.....

I guess it would be better to just swap the VQ35 short block and just use VQ30 heads.
Now you tell me........

I dont know what my plans are on this, its been up in the air on this setup for the past month now since the cost is starting to outweigh what i budget'ed.

Dixit
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:53 PM   #107
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What would be involved in using the VQ35 short block?? Technically would it be less work?
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:55 PM   #108
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Damnit, someone just bring me a 4th gen so I can do the how-to on the VQ35 swap. I still do not understand why any of you want to short change yourselves by settling with 3.3 liters instead of 3.5 .
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:56 PM   #109
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Hahahahaha...LOL! Like I'd have a clue what it costs to build an engine.

For the price you paid, I think you can sell off parts and eventually get your money back, so not too bad off.

We still don't know if Mardi was sucessful or not, but he keeps hinting like he was, ie "my compression ratio is around 10.5:1". Until he or someone does it, who knows if it will work. Plus, 11+:1 CR isn't going to be boost friendly and SGP or similar low CR pistons are pricey.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Now you tell me........

I dont know what my plans are on this, its been up in the air on this setup for the past month now since the cost is starting to outweigh what i budget'ed.

Dixit
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:05 PM   #110
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You need a 4th gen? How's this summer look?

~THT
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:20 PM   #111
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I would seriously think about getting a VQ35 if it would work with my 5 speed
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:25 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oxidizer2k
now... who can figure out to get better gas milage?
I can!

step 1: install tall tires. 225/75 reduces engine speed from 2400rpm to 2100rpm at 60mph in 5th.
step 2: install 3:1 diff. to reduce 60mph engine speed to 1700rpm.
step 3: replace intake with 2½" cone and muffler with 1¼" pipe so your engine breathes like a 1.5 liter 3 cylinder. The maf will meter much less fuel now.
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:29 PM   #113
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sorry to hijack, but this is thread has some knowledgeable people in it, so...

whats the deal with the 3.5 Altima 5 speed tranny? is it the same as the 2k/2k1 5 speed in the maxima? i dont think it has LSD as an option, but if it's stronger than our 5 speeds, and isn't as notchy/time consuming as a 6 speed swap, i think it might be worth looking into for people with blown trannies.
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:29 PM   #114
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The VQ35 in the Altima uses a 5spd...doubt it's much different.

Supposedly, someone here bolted up the 6spd to the VQ30, so I'd say it can be done.

Quote:
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I would seriously think about getting a VQ35 if it would work with my 5 speed
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:31 PM   #115
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Haha...posted at the same time.
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:47 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
The VQ35 in the Altima uses a 5spd...doubt it's much different.

Supposedly, someone here bolted up the 6spd to the VQ30, so I'd say it can be done.
right, but you dont think nissan would beef up the tranny when going from 222 hp to 240/245? or do i have too much confidence in nissan?
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:48 PM   #117
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Are there any mating problems with the Vq30 heads on the Vq35 lower? I am debating what to do. Again though, i have a 4th gen.
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Old 04-21-2004, 04:07 PM   #118
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so what is the status of this? has anyone put together a vq33 yet to see if it runs? has anyone done the vq35 block with vq30 uppers and lowers yet?
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Old 04-21-2004, 04:20 PM   #119
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"whY havE A 3.5 wHen I cain hav A 3.3 wIth l3ss powah f0R More $$$"
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Old 04-21-2004, 04:40 PM   #120
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so its cheaper to drop a VQ35 lower into a 4th gen... do the manual tranny's hook up?
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