Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and BrakingTalk about suspension geometry, advanced handling/chassis setup, custom brakes, etc. NOT your basic brake pads and "best drop" Information.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
I have run out of ideas and patience on this issue. I have Q45 calipers and the accompanying rotors on my 3rd Gen. I have had the driver side brakes apart and back together several times in the last 10 days or so with no luck.
The issue: The noise is kind of a squeaking / grinding noise...Kind of like the noise you can make with chalk while writing on a blackboard. It doesn't do it when the rotors are cold, only after they heat up after a stop or two. It isn't a constant noise, but rather an intermittent one that varies with speed. It is pretty consistently there (whether or not the rotors are cold) when you veer / turn either way. Then it's more like a crunching / grinding noise.
I took everything apart and cleaned it twice in the last week or so and put it back together. Everything looks like it should. Seemed to be gone for a minute, but then it came back. Today I did the same thing again, but this time sanding the brake pads and rotors...Not one bit of difference. What the hell is going on? I need some fresh ideas on this one.
Oh, BTW...you can kind of feel the grinding / crunching thru the steering wheel when turning. You can also rock the car back and forth and feel the noise by touching the tire. It isn't a smooth grinding, otherwise you wouldn't be able to feel it.
__________________
MODS: VLSD 5-Speed Swap, Exedy Stage 1 Clutch, Turbo Manifold Studs, Koni/Eibach Suspension, Suspension Techniques F & R Swaybars w/ Blehmco RSB Links, Unorthodox Racing UDP, Blehmco Grounding Kit, WSP Y-Pipe, Place Racing CAI, Custom STS, Polyurethane Front & Rear Bushings, Q45 Front Brakes (Blehmco S.S. Lines, Brembo Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads), Courtesy Nissan FSTB, Blehmco RSTB, Blehmco Stage II LTB, NissanWorks TB & IACV Spacers, 9007 Headlight Bulb Conversion, GXE Fog Lamps, Sound System (Infinity, JVC, Polk, MTX), 2k3 SE 17" Wheels w/ 225/50R17 Hankook HR Ventus II Tires - 186K miles (bought 8/03 @ 87K miles)
Other Toy: '96 Corvette LT4 6-Speed, 75K miles (bought 3/09 @ 60K miles), Black on Black, Fassstt!!!! Stock, for now...
jack up and rock wheel up down/left right. check axle nut to make sure its tight.
If it is the wheel bearing, just go to the junkyard and get a new spindle/knuckle assembly w/ bearing. the effort and cost to replace the bad bearing and hub is a day's work and $180 in parts. you can get a junkyard knuckle for $50 and swap it in 20-30 min even with hand tools.
__________________
04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
96 240SX 5 speed- The track toy
93 Maxima SE 5 speed- retired 1-5-09
I am sure it is not a wheel bearing, Matt. This is definitely something dealing with the brakes. Besides, both front wheel bearings are less than a year old. It doesn't really become prevalent until I make a few stops and heat everything up.
__________________
MODS: VLSD 5-Speed Swap, Exedy Stage 1 Clutch, Turbo Manifold Studs, Koni/Eibach Suspension, Suspension Techniques F & R Swaybars w/ Blehmco RSB Links, Unorthodox Racing UDP, Blehmco Grounding Kit, WSP Y-Pipe, Place Racing CAI, Custom STS, Polyurethane Front & Rear Bushings, Q45 Front Brakes (Blehmco S.S. Lines, Brembo Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads), Courtesy Nissan FSTB, Blehmco RSTB, Blehmco Stage II LTB, NissanWorks TB & IACV Spacers, 9007 Headlight Bulb Conversion, GXE Fog Lamps, Sound System (Infinity, JVC, Polk, MTX), 2k3 SE 17" Wheels w/ 225/50R17 Hankook HR Ventus II Tires - 186K miles (bought 8/03 @ 87K miles)
Other Toy: '96 Corvette LT4 6-Speed, 75K miles (bought 3/09 @ 60K miles), Black on Black, Fassstt!!!! Stock, for now...
Do you experience this solely while turning left or right? When you begin to feel the grinding, do you feel it through your brake pedal and/or feel the brake pedal give way a little bit?
look on the side of whichever angle is worn the most. see if a portion of the caliper is rubbing against the rotor out on the edge. I had one rubbing- I could hear it all the time- but never saw anything on the rotor. Aluminum calipers (in my case) never left marks on the rotor.. just made noise.
anyway, if the pad is wearing at an angle, you've probably got a siezed or worn out and really loose slider pin, allowing the caliper to twist against the torque arm.
It could also be the pad itself making the noise.
__________________
04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
96 240SX 5 speed- The track toy
93 Maxima SE 5 speed- retired 1-5-09
How old is the rotors? Because they might be warn too. I had the same problem when I was working a my friends eclipse, he drive it into the ground, he wont sto driving it until he cant drive it anymore. I did a simple brake job, and I showed him his rotors were fairly warn, and it had a simaler problme like yours, but it never grinds. Get them refinished, I dont remember what the machine is called, but they like shave you rotors, like all the old brake pads leave stuff behind on the rotors, so alot of times people dont replace them when they should, thats when they start to get warn even more, and get worped. Just go to a nice shop, and ask them if they can shave you rotors or what every its called.
__________________ For sale:
4th gen. full intake (not including MAF and air temp. sensor). $30.+ $25.-$30. for shipping.
It is possible that the piston in the caliper is sticking and could be coming out at a slight angle. The piston seal could be worn and not allowing the piston to retract inside the caliper fully. I had the same problem on the rear caliper of my Maxima.
If you are experiencing a grinding sound of some type, is it possible that the rotor is not able to seat properly on the hub base? If there is interference between the rotor and hub, it could cause your problem.
My first thought was bearing also, but if you have checked, these could be possible. Hope it helps.
How old is the rotors? Because they might be warn too. I had the same problem when I was working a my friends eclipse, he drive it into the ground, he wont sto driving it until he cant drive it anymore. I did a simple brake job, and I showed him his rotors were fairly warn, and it had a simaler problme like yours, but it never grinds. Get them refinished, I dont remember what the machine is called, but they like shave you rotors, like all the old brake pads leave stuff behind on the rotors, so alot of times people dont replace them when they should, thats when they start to get warn even more, and get worped. Just go to a nice shop, and ask them if they can shave you rotors or what every its called.
This is my vote, I had that same kind of sound and it was my front rotors worn. The sound got so horrendous at one point that once i accelerated it felt like my calipers were scraping across my rotors. Check out the rotors. If they are more than 21/2 years old it "could" be them.
the grinding noise comes from the length of time you leave your rotors on when they worn, the more they get worn, the more of a grinding noise u hear, usually takes more than 3 weeks to start grinding
Forgot all about this thread! Since I last updated, I did a brake job in a parking lot (still didn't cure the issue), drove the car from Oklahoma back to Texas, parked it and forgot about it for almost 2 months, bought a new car, and fixed it sometime over a month ago. It turned out to be a bad wheel bearing...
__________________
MODS: VLSD 5-Speed Swap, Exedy Stage 1 Clutch, Turbo Manifold Studs, Koni/Eibach Suspension, Suspension Techniques F & R Swaybars w/ Blehmco RSB Links, Unorthodox Racing UDP, Blehmco Grounding Kit, WSP Y-Pipe, Place Racing CAI, Custom STS, Polyurethane Front & Rear Bushings, Q45 Front Brakes (Blehmco S.S. Lines, Brembo Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads), Courtesy Nissan FSTB, Blehmco RSTB, Blehmco Stage II LTB, NissanWorks TB & IACV Spacers, 9007 Headlight Bulb Conversion, GXE Fog Lamps, Sound System (Infinity, JVC, Polk, MTX), 2k3 SE 17" Wheels w/ 225/50R17 Hankook HR Ventus II Tires - 186K miles (bought 8/03 @ 87K miles)
Other Toy: '96 Corvette LT4 6-Speed, 75K miles (bought 3/09 @ 60K miles), Black on Black, Fassstt!!!! Stock, for now...
Forgot all about this thread! Since I last updated, I did a brake job in a parking lot (still didn't cure the issue), drove the car from Oklahoma back to Texas, parked it and forgot about it for almost 2 months, bought a new car, and fixed it sometime over a month ago. It turned out to be a bad wheel bearing...