Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and BrakingTalk about suspension geometry, advanced handling/chassis setup, custom brakes, etc. NOT your basic brake pads and "best drop" Information.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
So, for the Holidays, I plan on getting some suspension pieces for my car.
Specifically, I want shocks (Illuminas) and springs (Eibachs). However, I have a rather limited budget, so the plan is to order only front shocks and springs.
How would this affect my handling?
Note: I may consider getting rear shocks as well, but no rear springs for sure because I think the rear ride height is fine, and the drop makes it look saggy...
You have to buy the springs as a set, unless you can find someone here on the .org that's split a set already.
I know a few guys are mixing H&R on one end and Eibach on the other to keep the rake looking decent. Either way you're going to want to put good shocks on both ends. put your money there if you have to spend it somewhere. It'll at least make the car fun to drive.
__________________
04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
96 240SX 5 speed- The track toy
93 Maxima SE 5 speed- retired 1-5-09
buy shocks all around, get the springs later. Like Matt implied, this's a safety issue, you're safer changing all the struts at 1 time, and doing springs later, rather than springs first, or fronts first.
Dr J
__________________
Dr J
ICQ/AIM/MSN/YIM/Google/Skype: ThurzNite
Email: ThurzNite@Yahoo.Com
MCC member #27
Show your support! Custom MAXIMA.ORG lanyards! Link
buy shocks all around, get the springs later. Like Matt implied, this's a safety issue, you're safer changing all the struts at 1 time, and doing springs later, rather than springs first, or fronts first.
Dr J
Sorry about bring up an old thread, but my question is along the same line.
I'm replacing springs and struts, and have them already; H-Tech/Illuminas. How necessary is it to replace the front and rear strut mounts and front strut bearings? My max has about
88k miles, I bought it used with about 35K on it about 5 years ago.
Tough question... For the fronts, does suspension squeek or bind when you turn? If not, inspect the bearing and mount when you take it apart. The bearing's not incredibly expensive @ the dealership, and they should be in stock. The mounts are pricier, and I don't know if they're always in stock. However I'd just get the mounts somewhere with lifetime warranty for cheaper than dealership anyways.
I changed my bearings when I lowered my car at about 120,000 miles. The originals weren't worn, and I coulda cleaned and lubed them and put them back in if I wanted.
I replaced my mounts at about 190,000 miles, mostly because I was driving my car sideways (which probably wore out my hubs that I replaced shortly before the mounts). Otherwise, they wouldn't have worn out so prematurely.
Dr J
__________________
Dr J
ICQ/AIM/MSN/YIM/Google/Skype: ThurzNite
Email: ThurzNite@Yahoo.Com
MCC member #27
Show your support! Custom MAXIMA.ORG lanyards! Link
Tough question... For the fronts, does suspension squeek or bind when you turn?
Dr J
There is some squeeking when I turn or when I'm driving slow, but that could be because the cv boot is busted; not sure for how long. But let's just say that the squeeks were not because of the axel/busted cv boot, would you say that it would be because of a worn out bearing more so that the mount? (in your opinion of course.)
Yes. When my mount wore out, it would clunk over bumps/dips and while in constant radius turns. The bearing would squeek or bind only as you're turning the steering wheel.
Dr J
__________________
Dr J
ICQ/AIM/MSN/YIM/Google/Skype: ThurzNite
Email: ThurzNite@Yahoo.Com
MCC member #27
Show your support! Custom MAXIMA.ORG lanyards! Link
Yes. When my mount wore out, it would clunk over bumps/dips and while in constant radius turns. The bearing would squeek or bind only as you're turning the steering wheel.
Dr J
As for the rears... Just swap the struts and springs, make sure your spring isolator is in good condition or else it'll squeek (same for the fronts), and you're good to go.
Dr J
__________________
Dr J
ICQ/AIM/MSN/YIM/Google/Skype: ThurzNite
Email: ThurzNite@Yahoo.Com
MCC member #27
Show your support! Custom MAXIMA.ORG lanyards! Link
Wheels don't dicate suspension. You can change your wheels without any suspension consideration, provided you're not going overly large like getting 22's or whatever.
It will probably just look like it needs a drop moreso than it already does. If you have specific questions, PM me. I'm local and can perform your suspension upgrade, should you choose to go that route.
__________________
Eclipse CD3000
Audison LRx 6.9-> Rainbow SLC 265.03, (2) 10" DLS Reference W710's
Knukonceptz 1/0awg / Cascade VB2Max / Stinger / Clifford / Optima
Exterior: stock-tastic. I can install your suspension and stereo. Click here for info!
Agreed, unless you start doing something wild like a 3" drop, tuck, flared fenders, rolled fenders, flush mount, etc etc. At that time, you may consider a wheel/tire setup out of the standard plus size range.
Dr J
__________________
Dr J
ICQ/AIM/MSN/YIM/Google/Skype: ThurzNite
Email: ThurzNite@Yahoo.Com
MCC member #27
Show your support! Custom MAXIMA.ORG lanyards! Link
It would be a lot better if you buy your springs as a set, instead of just upgrading your front suspension. That way you are much assured of the performance.
If you want to do it right, I would personally wait to do it all together. Unless you're doing it yourself, it'll cost AAAAL to install shocks then go back and install springs later on. If nothing is broke wait it out. .02