Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and BrakingTalk about suspension geometry, advanced handling/chassis setup, custom brakes, etc. NOT your basic brake pads and "best drop" Information.
I called up a tuning shop and they said they don't have a drive on lift but they have been doing it on many cars (making custom ones aswell as welding on prebuilt ones) and they never had any problems
the tires are supposed to be supported but when I got mine installed I got them done at a place that had a lift the same style as the one pictured above.
Also just a side note they work amazing and it was a huge difference between the before and after. The sfcs are on there just like anyone elses and as secure as anyone elses and give the same sturdiness.
__________________
------------------
17" Moda R6 - CE Red/Clears - Aux Input - 97 Grill - Black Bumperlights - Tokico Illumnia Struts/ Springs
ive seen maxs that have had theyre sfc welded on on a lift like that, no problems, but yeah a roll on lift should yield better results since the chassis would be in its normal flexed/inflexed state
Ok cuz I found 1 shop in my area that will install it at a reasonable price... All these other shops want like 300-500 bucks, and I found a shop that will do it for 120 OTD WOOT!
Just remember most of the time cheap doesnt yield good quality. You dont want the wield points to break and end up spending more money. But $120 is a really good price! Good luck! And remember to leave some feedback~!
Yeah, chassis should be loaded when they're welded on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackmax1924
the tires are supposed to be supported
that's not really true with a basic SFC like the truax setup. As long as the shop uses a lift as pictured, and locates the pads correctly on the frame ends to the front and rear of the SFCs, it's fine.
Mine were installed by one ofthe most respected race shops on the east coast (most of their business is building roll bars/cages/braces for actual race cars), and they did it on a standard lift. 2-3 years later, everything is still fine.
__________________ 2000 Maxima SE (sold but still on the org) - 2009 Subaru WRX - 2008 4Runner SportEdition - 1990 Cherokee Laredo - 1970 Triumph GT6 Mk2
that's not really true with a basic SFC like the truax setup. As long as the shop uses a lift as pictured, and locates the pads correctly on the frame ends to the front and rear of the SFCs, it's fine.
Mine were installed by one ofthe most respected race shops on the east coast (most of their business is building roll bars/cages/braces for actual race cars), and they did it on a standard lift. 2-3 years later, everything is still fine.
Thanks Irish
Can you go into a little bit more detail about the bold information
Are you talking about the pinch welds?
Are you talking about lifting it from the frame? ( I heard that is a no no)
Can you go into a little bit more detail about the bold information
Are you talking about the pinch welds?
Are you talking about lifting it from the frame? ( I heard that is a no no)
I'll see if I can find the pics of when mine was done. Will look tomorrow. You want the pads as far forward and back as you can, to simulate the load that the wheels would put on the car. I don't recall specifically where they were placed, it's been a while since I was under the maxima
been under my Jeep and Triumph too much recently!
__________________ 2000 Maxima SE (sold but still on the org) - 2009 Subaru WRX - 2008 4Runner SportEdition - 1990 Cherokee Laredo - 1970 Triumph GT6 Mk2
Hey Irish, did you ever look at those pics from your install?
I just installed my FBs yesterday and am now looking for a shop to weld on the SFCs. I'd really like to know the specifics of lifting the vehicle the "correct" way. I know the pinch welds on the front left are fawked, so lifting on the pinch welds is a no-go. Should I seek a shop with a drive-on lift?
OEM RIMS FTW!
- 2009 Subaru WRX - 2008 4Runner SportEdition - 1990 Cherokee Laredo - 1970 Triumph GT6 Mk2
Linear Mode
