ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

I'm having a hard time isolating a front-end clunk that I've had for a lONG time....passenger side. Seems to have only gotten worse after swapping-out the illuminas and progress springs.
I replaced my strut bearings AND sway bar busings - nada.

I'm going after the Sway bar end links and bushings next.

I looked here:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...nd%20Links.asp

But that left me somewhat confused as to what to buy??
Can somebody advise what the correct parts are for an '02 SE?

Also - any other thoughts on what to replace to get rid of that fukking clunk would be appreciated.
It's consistently ALWAYS there....pretty much just clunks-away over most any terrain, large or small bumps, undulations, you name it. Ugh.

Thanks guys.
gr

*Btw -- I'm not ruling-out the motor-mounts....but for now - i don't think it's them....and replacing the other componenents is FAR easier and cheaper!*

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

I don't think ES makes endlinks for our cars. Your best bet would be to get some OEM endlinks from DaveB. They're pretty inexpensive and will work fine.

When you did the suspension, did you re-use the original upper mounts?

Also, did you make sure to install the spring isolator (tube-looking stuff) on the bottom of the spring so the end of the spring doesn't hit the lower seat metal-on-metal?

jdmkuruma

is the sway bar loose, can you wiggle it with your hand? Have you checked all your strut bolts and other suspension bolts.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

I should've just PM'd you IRish...

This page says they sell MOOG parts....but no ES.
I've had this infernal clunk since day one....it's just gotten worse in the 62k I've got on the clock now....I'm always reluctant to go back to OEM for this reason = premature failure.

I DEFINITELY re-used the Isolators, and unfortunately - I also re-used the Upper mounts as well.
I have to admit...they looked pretty beat (upper mounts).
Are these just flimsy little pieces of carboard or what? They didn't look very substantial.
Assume I can get these from DaveB as well....
Are there BETTER aftermarket options?

thanks Irish.
gr

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Everything is tight.
I was careful to re-torque everything to spec when I put it back together.
I'm looking for weaker links now....

gr

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

stupid Q.. is the nut on the top of the strut tight?
you'd be amazed how many people have problems with this and it's simply because the nut worked loose and started rattling.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Yeah - hit it with the impact, so pretty sure it's good to go!
Thanks for the input Matt....

gr

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

just checking... had a guy drive to houston a couple months ago to have me swap a strut for him, and it wound up being the nut on top was loose. unfortunately we had to throw it away anyway because the shaft was so worn out from the rubbing. couldn't pull up torque on the bolt. I thought about welding some metal back onto it and then cutting threads into that, but it would have been a PITA and changed the heat treatment of the steel on the shaft. also would have been a liability later if it broke while he was driving.

other easy things to look at- upper mounts. the rubber insulation in there tends to go bad and allow the top of the strut to move around under cornering. dunno if it would cause clunking noise though.

could be sway bar brackets or springs as well. yeah.. you've pretty much hit on all the parts. keep looking and you'l find it eventually.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Thanks man.
It's nice to not get my a$$ blasted for sounding like a noob -- I know these questions have been asked and answered a billion times here....I mean, dayum - I've been on here for almost 6 years now!!

Just out of curiosity: how far down should I torque the strut piston nut?
I think I have about a 1/4" of threaded bolt on the piston showing....does that sound about right?
I didn't want to torque it down too far!

gr

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

the length doesn't really matter- that depends on what nuts and washers you used on it, and they're all slightly different for each generation and car.
as long as it's torqued to the proper torque (listed in the FSM), then you should be okay.

usually I just set my impact to the lowest setting and call it good.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE=irish44j;6304612]I don't think ES makes endlinks for our cars. Your best bet would be to get some OEM endlinks from DaveB. They're pretty inexpensive and will work fine.

When you did the suspension, did you re-use the original upper mounts?
QUOTE]

...got to thinking about this....
did you mean the ENTIRE mount assembly, as in: the metal top-hat with threaded bolts??
I was kind of thinking you meant the thin cardboard-like gasket that sit underneath the top hat....

Can you please clarify if you meant the WHOLE METAL ASSEMBLY??

thks,
gr

StillenMax80x20

iTrader: (3)

i also have this clunk (I think) also. Its like a rattle over bumps and seems like it clunks when compressing and expanding? I am replacing my sway bar bushings with ES Brand. But i was looking to order the end links as well. Does anyone have the sizes for these? Or should I follow IRISH's advice and get them from DAVE B.

Zack342

iTrader: (89)

here is my how to

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....626&highlight=

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Good post and pics, Zack -- many thanks!

Just ordered my new links from Dave B -- along with new foglights.

I'll post-up my impressions when I get them installed!
gr


**NOTE: ordering the OEM endlinks does NOT include the nut(s) or washer(s) -- you must order those in addition to the links!!!**

Zack342

iTrader: (89)

No Problem that is what I created it. I listed all the part #'s in there for the endlinks and /washers/nuts.

Maybe irish will add it to the stickies

DrewZee

Noob here - Is there a benefit to using the OEM end link as opposed to this: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...=MOOG%2DK90431 ??

And I take it Zack's how-to applies to 5th gen's as well?

BadBlackMaxSL

iTrader: (1)

I had it on my 02 SE, finally they traced it to the the tie-rods. They replaced both and the clunk was gone forever. Over 2 years I was clunk free until my lease was up.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE=ghostrider17;6356925]Good post and pics, Zack -- many thanks!

Just ordered my new links from Dave B -- along with new foglights.

I'll post-up my impressions when I get them installed!
gr

Got the endlinks installed: no differenence that I can notice.
They seemed just fine when I took them off -- probably should have been given they only have 63k miles on them.

I may have to go after the tierods next - there's almost NOTHING left to swap-out.
Still looking for that 60-70 mph vibration as well. Argh!

gr

05blkmax777

Is there a DIY for a sway bar link replacement for a 6 gen????

Kryogen

are you kidding me ? remove the wheels and look?

doublea

iTrader: (7)

The Moog are beefier and more stronger, there is a model available that have grease nipple on it so you can add grease in the joint, they will last way much longer.