How to get bmw type handling?
#1
How to get bmw type handling?
Just curious if its even possible and what would be required. Im considering a RSB and Eibach springs and have no idea how close this will get me. I drove my friends 325i ad i was hooked. I mean the thing never skids and the body barely rolls. We took a windy road at close to 100 and the car felt like it was meant for it. Im not looking to do coilovers because im on a budget of about 600 but is there anything better than eibachs?
#2
The truth is, a maxima will never handle like a BMW.
You can do all the good stuff like...
Shocks/Struts
Springs
FSTB
LTB
SFC
RSBR
RSTB
Fender Braces
Bushings
Tie Rods
and some other stuff
but the fact of the matter is, it will never be a BMW
if you look at the BMW layout of the Chasis you can see why it handles.
Wheels at all four corners seems to be a key.
Also how the way the weight is balanced.
You can do all the good stuff like...
Shocks/Struts
Springs
FSTB
LTB
SFC
RSBR
RSTB
Fender Braces
Bushings
Tie Rods
and some other stuff
but the fact of the matter is, it will never be a BMW
if you look at the BMW layout of the Chasis you can see why it handles.
Wheels at all four corners seems to be a key.
Also how the way the weight is balanced.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 01-10-2008 at 09:33 PM.
#3
If you still have a 4th gen FWD there is no way you'll get the BMW suspension no matter what you spend. I've spent big bucks trying on my 96 I30
, The suspension is greatly improved but I still have torque steer under WOT. Since I'm used to it I know what to do but my car is not RWD!
My car does put out 342FWHP with the SC and 430FWHP with the N20 so your situation may be different.
, The suspension is greatly improved but I still have torque steer under WOT. Since I'm used to it I know what to do but my car is not RWD!
My car does put out 342FWHP with the SC and 430FWHP with the N20 so your situation may be different.
#4
A yes they have a theory for that
THE CHAOS THEORY.
where the primary wheels do everything from steer to put the power down
BTW where's Irish, I believe he wrote something a while back about why we will never handle like a BMW
THE CHAOS THEORY.
where the primary wheels do everything from steer to put the power down
BTW where's Irish, I believe he wrote something a while back about why we will never handle like a BMW
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 01-10-2008 at 10:02 PM.
#6
1 - different suspension design (results in less body roll, more travel, better control of the camber/toe/caster)
2 - rigid chassis (allows suspension do a better job)
3 - RWD ( better weight distribution, and that spreading work between front/rear wheels stuff)
I would also imagine 3 series chassis has a lower center of gravity.
Sorry for disappointing you, but maxima will never handle like a BMW.
BTW, here's a post I made a while ago on this topic, that might also help: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...29&postcount=3
2 - rigid chassis (allows suspension do a better job)
3 - RWD ( better weight distribution, and that spreading work between front/rear wheels stuff)
I would also imagine 3 series chassis has a lower center of gravity.
Sorry for disappointing you, but maxima will never handle like a BMW.
BTW, here's a post I made a while ago on this topic, that might also help: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...29&postcount=3
Last edited by DrKlop; 01-11-2008 at 12:26 AM.
#7
My 3rd Gen was as close to a Maxima handling like a BMW as I've ever seen. The independent rear suspension works so much better than the beam type suspension when it comes to handling and comfort. My 740iL corners as flat as my modded 4th gen and it floats over bumps!!!
#8
Buy a BMW!
You will never handle as well as a sport tuned european car with a max.
The main joy of owning a maxima is that you get a 4 door sedan that has some *****. Great for making people feel stupid on the street but as for handling?, I'd rather slow down and let somebody else fly off the road on corners.
You will never handle as well as a sport tuned european car with a max.
The main joy of owning a maxima is that you get a 4 door sedan that has some *****. Great for making people feel stupid on the street but as for handling?, I'd rather slow down and let somebody else fly off the road on corners.
#9
With that said, there's no reason to abandon suspension work on the maxima. Make it as good as it can be.
#10
You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear, but you can make a very quick pig.
IOW, you can probably match the BMW's measured numbers given decent or better pavement. Just don't expect to match the "feel".
On further thought, you might be able to get the "feel" close if you did all sorts of extreme work (converting to RWD/IRS, revising the mass distribution, stiffening the chassis, etc., etc.). But you wouldn't exactly have a Maxima any more . . . a Maxima silhouette, perhaps?
Norm
IOW, you can probably match the BMW's measured numbers given decent or better pavement. Just don't expect to match the "feel".
On further thought, you might be able to get the "feel" close if you did all sorts of extreme work (converting to RWD/IRS, revising the mass distribution, stiffening the chassis, etc., etc.). But you wouldn't exactly have a Maxima any more . . . a Maxima silhouette, perhaps?
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-11-2008 at 10:07 AM.
#12
Right when I read the title I giggled just imagining what type of responses were already in here!
Sadly... on all counts. Most of all, nismology "With that said, there's no reason to abandon suspension work on the maxima. Make it as good as it can be."
Sadly... on all counts. Most of all, nismology "With that said, there's no reason to abandon suspension work on the maxima. Make it as good as it can be."
#13
So with that said, and i do apologize for my ignorance, with what i have planned, is there anything better. What brands would you guys recommend for springs, keep in mind im still using gr-2's? Just not enough money to upgrade, especially not on an 11 year old car. I think RSB and possibly SFC are self explanatory, and easy enough. Are LTB's really going to add anything, i mean i've heard its the equivelant of a strut bar?
Eibach's - 235
RSB- ~150
So i still have say 250 for 1 more thing. Whats more worth the money, LTB or SFC?
Eibach's - 235
RSB- ~150
So i still have say 250 for 1 more thing. Whats more worth the money, LTB or SFC?
#14
So with that said, and i do apologize for my ignorance, with what i have planned, is there anything better. What brands would you guys recommend for springs, keep in mind im still using gr-2's? Just not enough money to upgrade, especially not on an 11 year old car. I think RSB and possibly SFC are self explanatory, and easy enough. Are LTB's really going to add anything, i mean i've heard its the equivelant of a strut bar?
Eibach's - 235
RSB- ~150
So i still have say 250 for 1 more thing. Whats more worth the money, LTB or SFC?
Eibach's - 235
RSB- ~150
So i still have say 250 for 1 more thing. Whats more worth the money, LTB or SFC?
Eibachs
SFCs
Don't cheap out, as it will end up costing more in the long-run. Do it right the first time.
#15
A few factors:
1. FWD vs. RWD always requrires different suspension setups to accomodate the drivetrain
2. The maxima is a bigger car than a 3-series BMW, generally speaking. Better to compare it to an older model 5-series in terms of size, IMO (though I don't knonw if the actual measurements support this)
3. The chassis is really the biggest limiting factor. Japanese "performance sedans" typically have soft chassis and stiff springs, wheras european cars typically have very stiff chassis with softer springs and stiffer struts.
I disagree about the beam suspension being a limiter. IMO it is actually a BETTER rear suspension on smooth roads than an IRS because it allows the tires to stay flatter on the road. On rough pavement, it's another story. Also the fact that you can't adjust camber/caster/toe with the beam without bending it is a limiting factor to fine-tuning, clearly.
1 - different suspension design (results in less body roll, more travel, better control of the camber/toe/caster)
2 - rigid chassis (allows suspension do a better job)
3 - RWD ( better weight distribution, and that spreading work between front/rear wheels stuff)
I would also imagine 3 series chassis has a lower center of gravity.
Sorry for disappointing you, but maxima will never handle like a BMW.
2 - rigid chassis (allows suspension do a better job)
3 - RWD ( better weight distribution, and that spreading work between front/rear wheels stuff)
I would also imagine 3 series chassis has a lower center of gravity.
Sorry for disappointing you, but maxima will never handle like a BMW.
My 5th gen will run circles around a base-level stock E36, sorry. Granted we're comparing heavily modified with stock, but my tires ALONE will hold a corner better than stock E46 tires. There are alot of aspects to "handling" and frankly I find it ignorant when people say "a maxima will NEVER handle like a BMW." My good buddy has an E46 330xi (bone stock) and he can't even come close to hanging with me on a highway exit/entrace loop (and he is a very good autocrosser. Frankly, my wife's Mazda3 or her old 2000 Jetta both outhandle his 330xi....
That and I'll outhandle most 5-series and 7-series from about the same time period of my maxima (2000).
Not all BMWs are M3's......and not all BMWs are all that spectacular in handling.
The moral of this story: There are Honda Civics out there that will outhandle Porsches. It's just a matter of how you set them up and what your definition of "handling" is...
So with that said, and i do apologize for my ignorance, with what i have planned, is there anything better. What brands would you guys recommend for springs, keep in mind im still using gr-2's? Just not enough money to upgrade, especially not on an 11 year old car. I think RSB and possibly SFC are self explanatory, and easy enough. Are LTB's really going to add anything, i mean i've heard its the equivelant of a strut bar?
Eibach's - 235
RSB- ~150
So i still have say 250 for 1 more thing. Whats more worth the money, LTB or SFC?
Eibach's - 235
RSB- ~150
So i still have say 250 for 1 more thing. Whats more worth the money, LTB or SFC?
SFCs primarily reduce midbody flex on our long=wheelbase cars - especially for 4th gens which have weaker chassis than 5th gens. They don't help the car's hndling per se, but they allow the suspension (springs, struts, bushings, etc) to do their work the way they're supposed to. They also considerably improve ride quality on all types of roads.
1. RSB - I find a RSB to be a huge improvement in killing the terminal understeer on a stock maxima
2. Poly bushings...whereever you can put them. Individually they don't make a huge difference, but altogether they really tighten things up and improve steering/suspension response.
3. TIRES TIRES WHEELS TIRES. Everyone always forgets what a HUGE role wheels and tires play in "handling." Get a wider wheel with a lower offset (to push the track wider and improve stability). Get a tire with a stiffer sidewall and sticky tread compound. Tires and wheels can make a MONSTER difference in how your car handles.
Your stock 6.5" or 7" wide rims and crappy tires just won't cut it, no matter what suspension you have...
#16
btw, I have a feeling this thread is going to go a bad direction soon (in part thanks to my responses).
They guy's question is basically "how do I make the maxima handle as well as it possibly can." The comparison to "a BMW" is irrelevant as it is apples and oranges.
OP, do some research on the 4th gen forum and see what setups the 4th gens who autocross are running (and 5th gens for that matter), and you'll have an idea of what you need.
I personally think I have one of the best suspension/chassis setups here on the org for 5th gens running non-coilover suspensions (and I've tried alot of them)....feel free to follow my "lead" if you care to...
They guy's question is basically "how do I make the maxima handle as well as it possibly can." The comparison to "a BMW" is irrelevant as it is apples and oranges.
OP, do some research on the 4th gen forum and see what setups the 4th gens who autocross are running (and 5th gens for that matter), and you'll have an idea of what you need.
I personally think I have one of the best suspension/chassis setups here on the org for 5th gens running non-coilover suspensions (and I've tried alot of them)....feel free to follow my "lead" if you care to...
#17
I agree with Irish (of course I always do, but I have spent many nights going back through alot of old posts where he asked alot of good questions and seem to have alot of good answers as well) about the fact that a heavily modified suspension maxima can definetly put a stock BMW in its place, even one with a few light mods too. I have everything that I could think of doing with my suspension and then some and I'm not talk about my tire width (lately I've determined that its a bit of a hindering factor in my handling). There is alot to be done to our cars if you just put your mind to it and you have some good ol fashion enginuity. Take a look at some of the guys around here and for that matter venture onto some other car forums that have the same kind of layout (FWD, Front engine) and see what kind of things they are setting their cars up with. You be surprised what you can do, especially if you become really good friends with a shop owner who lets you use his welding equipment.
#18
Very informative post irish. Kinda cleared up the whole BMW versus Nissan thing there. And yeh i wasnt exactly trying to ask how to make the car handle like a beamer, more of how to make it handle as best possible within this price limit. I'll look at some of your setups and make a decission. For now im off to doin more sound deadening, so later folks.
#19
btw, I have a feeling this thread is going to go a bad direction soon (in part thanks to my responses).
They guy's question is basically "how do I make the maxima handle as well as it possibly can." The comparison to "a BMW" is irrelevant as it is apples and oranges.
OP, do some research on the 4th gen forum and see what setups the 4th gens who autocross are running (and 5th gens for that matter), and you'll have an idea of what you need.
I personally think I have one of the best suspension/chassis setups here on the org for 5th gens running non-coilover suspensions (and I've tried alot of them)....feel free to follow my "lead" if you care to...
They guy's question is basically "how do I make the maxima handle as well as it possibly can." The comparison to "a BMW" is irrelevant as it is apples and oranges.
OP, do some research on the 4th gen forum and see what setups the 4th gens who autocross are running (and 5th gens for that matter), and you'll have an idea of what you need.
I personally think I have one of the best suspension/chassis setups here on the org for 5th gens running non-coilover suspensions (and I've tried alot of them)....feel free to follow my "lead" if you care to...
Going around curves is different. I can fly around curves and the car stays planted.
My suspension includes:
-full JIC Magic FLT-A2 Coilovers.
-electro mechanical steering rack with separate control for steering pressure.
-Volk LE37T Wheels 17"x 7.5 16.5 lbs
-Dunlop 225-45-17 9000 tires
-Brembo front big brake kit and matching rear cross drilled rear rotors
- tracton bars
-stillen Triangulated front strut tower bar
-Blehnco stage 2 Lower Tie Bar rods
-Courtesy Nissan rear strut tower bar
-Addco rear anti roll bar
-H & R rear 25 mm wheel spacers
-Energy Suspension bushings for front suspension and motor mounts and
rear trailing arms
-Roll bar attached to chassis at 8 points
With all these mods my car should handle well!
-
#20
I agree with you. I'm sure I also have one of the best suspension setups on the org but on the straight away I still get torque steer under power and I have to be careful to hold the steering wheel very tight.
Going around curves is different. I can fly around curves and the car stays planted.
My suspension includes:
-full JIC Magic FLT-A2 Coilovers.
-electro mechanical steering rack with separate control for steering pressure.
-Volk LE37T Wheels 17"x 7.5 16.5 lbs
-Dunlop 225-45-17 9000 tires
-Brembo front big brake kit and matching rear cross drilled rear rotors
- tracton bars
-stillen Triangulated front strut tower bar
-Blehnco stage 2 Lower Tie Bar rods
-Courtesy Nissan rear strut tower bar
-Addco rear anti roll bar
-H & R rear 25 mm wheel spacers
-Energy Suspension bushings for front suspension and motor mounts and
rear trailing arms
-Roll bar attached to chassis at 8 points
With all these mods my car should handle well!
-
Going around curves is different. I can fly around curves and the car stays planted.
My suspension includes:
-full JIC Magic FLT-A2 Coilovers.
-electro mechanical steering rack with separate control for steering pressure.
-Volk LE37T Wheels 17"x 7.5 16.5 lbs
-Dunlop 225-45-17 9000 tires
-Brembo front big brake kit and matching rear cross drilled rear rotors
- tracton bars
-stillen Triangulated front strut tower bar
-Blehnco stage 2 Lower Tie Bar rods
-Courtesy Nissan rear strut tower bar
-Addco rear anti roll bar
-H & R rear 25 mm wheel spacers
-Energy Suspension bushings for front suspension and motor mounts and
rear trailing arms
-Roll bar attached to chassis at 8 points
With all these mods my car should handle well!
-
Wider wheels and tires. With 450whp on any car, let alone the Maxima, you are going to want at least 255/40s to squeeze every bit of traction and heat resistance out of your car. That requires 17x9s as well.
SFCs. I can't stress this enough, SFCs make your car feel completely different and predictable. SFCs DO bring your car closer to feeling like a BMW.
My buddy has an E39 540i sport, and that thing corners significantly flatter than my car yet rides significantly more pleasant as well. Over rough pavement the suspension is still stiff, but it's completely silent, and the chassis is never excited into oscillations, and you can feel the suspension working more and the chassis not budging. This is because of BMW's chassis design awesome sauce. Give that thing a 4th gen chassis and keep everything else equal, I guarantee it will ride like crap, "crashing" over every undulation and flexing out the wazoo whenever you ask it to turn fast.
That's how a stock 4th gen is, especially when you throw stiffer suspension, an RSB and poly bushings at it. The SFCs transform the A32 in the most subtle way that most passengers and too many drivers actually won't notice or won't be able to put their fingers on, but if you're a car enthusiast you will pick up on it immediately. They just tighten the car up.
#21
Two things you NEED to add to that list:
Wider wheels and tires. With 450whp on any car, let alone the Maxima, you are going to want at least 255/40s to squeeze every bit of traction and heat resistance out of your car. That requires 17x9s as well.
SFCs. I can't stress this enough, SFCs make your car feel completely different and predictable. SFCs DO bring your car closer to feeling like a BMW.
My buddy has an E39 540i sport, and that thing corners significantly flatter than my car yet rides significantly more pleasant as well. Over rough pavement the suspension is still stiff, but it's completely silent, and the chassis is never excited into oscillations, and you can feel the suspension working more and the chassis not budging. This is because of BMW's chassis design awesome sauce. Give that thing a 4th gen chassis and keep everything else equal, I guarantee it will ride like crap, "crashing" over every undulation and flexing out the wazoo whenever you ask it to turn fast.
That's how a stock 4th gen is, especially when you throw stiffer suspension, an RSB and poly bushings at it. The SFCs transform the A32 in the most subtle way that most passengers and too many drivers actually won't notice or won't be able to put their fingers on, but if you're a car enthusiast you will pick up on it immediately. They just tighten the car up.
Wider wheels and tires. With 450whp on any car, let alone the Maxima, you are going to want at least 255/40s to squeeze every bit of traction and heat resistance out of your car. That requires 17x9s as well.
SFCs. I can't stress this enough, SFCs make your car feel completely different and predictable. SFCs DO bring your car closer to feeling like a BMW.
My buddy has an E39 540i sport, and that thing corners significantly flatter than my car yet rides significantly more pleasant as well. Over rough pavement the suspension is still stiff, but it's completely silent, and the chassis is never excited into oscillations, and you can feel the suspension working more and the chassis not budging. This is because of BMW's chassis design awesome sauce. Give that thing a 4th gen chassis and keep everything else equal, I guarantee it will ride like crap, "crashing" over every undulation and flexing out the wazoo whenever you ask it to turn fast.
That's how a stock 4th gen is, especially when you throw stiffer suspension, an RSB and poly bushings at it. The SFCs transform the A32 in the most subtle way that most passengers and too many drivers actually won't notice or won't be able to put their fingers on, but if you're a car enthusiast you will pick up on it immediately. They just tighten the car up.
I do think the roll bar acts like a SFC in a way.
#23
So if i've got this right, a higher offset puts the wheels further out giving the car a wider stance....therefore better handling? So in that case whats the highest offset i could use on an 18x8 wheel. Most places im looking to buy these wheels say a maxima should use a 40mm offset. I was planning like 225/40/18 tires, but on eibachs wasnt sure if i should worry bout rubbin.
#24
So if i've got this right, a higher offset puts the wheels further out giving the car a wider stance....therefore better handling? So in that case whats the highest offset i could use on an 18x8 wheel. Most places im looking to buy these wheels say a maxima should use a 40mm offset. I was planning like 225/40/18 tires, but on eibachs wasnt sure if i should worry bout rubbin.
You generally do not want to go too low on the offset (under +30 or so for 8" wide rims) or the wheels will actually stick out of the wheel wells and it'll just look bad.
Keep in mind, lower offsets also increase scrub radius (increasing steering effort and feedback) and add more stress on the wheel bearing.
#25
Yes and no, it really depends on where it's attached. Got pics?
A 4th gen without SFCs isn't complete, and will never be able to take advantage of the other suspension mods you put on the car. SFCs were the first mod I did to my car, and I'm very happy I did that.
I think what the OP was talking about in his first post was more of the BMW steering feel, and not overall grip. No matter what you do to a Maxima, it will never have the steering feel/response of a BMW. Maybe my non-SE steering rack is holding me back a bit, but I just don't see that bringing the steering feel up to BMW levels. That's the one thing that I hate about my car. Sure, it's a lot better than when I bought it, but the dead steering just kills the fun.
Now I'm wondering what it would be like to borrow someone's RSB locally and run around with it for a while to see how it would affect my car's balance....
A 4th gen without SFCs isn't complete, and will never be able to take advantage of the other suspension mods you put on the car. SFCs were the first mod I did to my car, and I'm very happy I did that.
I think what the OP was talking about in his first post was more of the BMW steering feel, and not overall grip. No matter what you do to a Maxima, it will never have the steering feel/response of a BMW. Maybe my non-SE steering rack is holding me back a bit, but I just don't see that bringing the steering feel up to BMW levels. That's the one thing that I hate about my car. Sure, it's a lot better than when I bought it, but the dead steering just kills the fun.
Now I'm wondering what it would be like to borrow someone's RSB locally and run around with it for a while to see how it would affect my car's balance....
#26
I could add 5 mm spacers to the front, maybe I will since I have them sitting on the shelf.
Size Offset
Weight in lbs. Hole P.C.D.
[quote]
SilMax00 If he's got 25 mm spacers he should fit 17 x 10 with 275 tires on that car, he has the room.
I'd have to raise the car another inch to fit this size especially for the front.
As I said previously buying new wheels and tires is too expensive.
Just look at these current list prices.
The Volk Racing TE37 wheels are a one piece forged construction
These are per wheel
size offset bolt pattern price/wheel
20 X 8.5 +43 5 114.3 $1,400.00
20 X 9.5 +25, +45 5 114.3 $1,450.00
20 X 10.5 +25, +45 5 114.3 $1,500.00
20 X 11.0 +25 5 114.3 $1,525.00
19 X 8.0 +29 +35 +43 +48 5 114.3 $785.00
19 X 8.5 +22,+29, +30, +35, +36, +43, +44 ~20.17 5 114.3 $795.00
19 x 9.5 +5, +12, +22, +34, +35, +36, +43, +44, +45 ~20.72 - 21.05 5 114.3 $815.00
19 x 10.5 +12, +22, +35, +38,+42 5 114.3 $835.00
18 x 10.5 +15, +22 19.40/ - 5 114.3 $780.00
18 x 9.5 +12, +22, +35, +40 18.65/ - /18.23/18.10 5 114.3 $760.00
18 x 9.0 +40 17.70 5 114.3 $750.00
18 x 8.5 +22, +30, +40, +50 - /17.35/17.11/17.09 5 114.3 $740.00
18 x 8.0 +5, +20, +30 ~18.08 6 139.7 $730.00
18 x 7.5 +40 16.62 4 100 $720.00
+40 16.98 4 114.3
+48 16.31 5 100
+30, +40, +48 - /16.20/16.64 5 114.3
17 x 10.0 +18 17.97 5 114.3 $710.00
17 x 9.5 +12, +28, +35, +40 17.53/16.87/17.02/17.15 5 114.3 $700.00
17 x 9.0 +0, +15, +22, +28, +40 16.98/17.28/16.98/16.87/16.75 5 114.3 $700.00
17 x 8 .5 +30, +40, +50 16.40/16.09/15.65 5 114.3 $680.00
+50 15.65 5 100
17 x 8.0 +38, +44 ~16.53 5 100 $670.00 +33, +38 16.53/16.31 5 114.3
17 x 7.5 +40 4 108 $660.00
+40 15.43 4 100
+40 15.43 4 114.3
+48 15.34 5 100
+30, +40, +48 15.78/14.99/14.88 5 114.3
16 x 8.5 +30 13.67 5 114.3 Discontinued
16 x 8.0 +42 12.41 4 100 $570.00
+30, +38 13.01/13.01 5 114.3
+38, +42 13.01/13.05 4 114.3
16 x 7.5 +30, +42 13.01/12.79 5 114.3 Discontinued
+46 12.13 5 100
16 x 7.0 +33, +42 ~11.79-12.37 4 100/114.3 $580.00
+33, +46 ~11.40-11.95 5 100
+33, +42 5 114.3
15 x 8.0 +15 12.02 4 114.3 $510.00
15 x 7.5 +43 11.13 4 100 $490.00
15 x 7.0 +35, +43 9.92/9.81 5 114.3 $480.00
+0,+15, +43 11.90/11.38/9.94 4 114.3
+35, +43 9.70/9.94 4 100
15 x 6.5 +39, +45 10.05/9.30 5 114.3 $470.00
+39 9.88 4 114.3
+45 8.86 5 100
+28, +35, +39, +45 9.83/9.24/8.93/8.82 4 100
15 x 6.0 +45 4/5 114.3 $460.00
+37, +45 9.26/8.16 4 100
15 x 5.5 +35, +45 4 100/114.3 $450.00
14 x 7.0 +0 9.37 4 114.3 $460.00
14 x 6.5 +15 ~8.60 4 100 $450.00
+0 8.93 4 114.3
14 x 6.0 +38 ~8.49 - 9.66 4 100/114.3 $420.00
14 x 5.5 +35, +45 8.25/8.33 4 100 $420.00
14 x 5.0 +35, +45 8.05/8.38 4 100/114.3 $400.00
+45 ~8.38 4 110
13 x 6.0 +25, +32, +38 7.94/8.05/8.05 4 100 $420.00
13 x 5.5 +35 7.72 4 100 $400.00
13 x 5.0 +35, +45 7.39/7.43 4 100 $390.00
+45 ~7.28 4 110/114.3
#28
You can get SFCs for $500 or so including installation. Considering what you have done to the car already, I'd say it's well worth it.
#29
Roll bar? If you've got a full cage, forget SFCs. But you're talking about the sway bar, which is completely separate in function from SFCs.
You can get SFCs for $500 or so including installation. Considering what you have done to the car already, I'd say it's well worth it.
You can get SFCs for $500 or so including installation. Considering what you have done to the car already, I'd say it's well worth it.
This also extends forward at seat level to the front. Its welded and bolted down in 8 places
#30
#31
I agree with you. I'm sure I also have one of the best suspension setups on the org but on the straight away I still get torque steer under power and I have to be careful to hold the steering wheel very tight.
Going around curves is different. I can fly around curves and the car stays planted.
My suspension includes:
-full JIC Magic FLT-A2 Coilovers.
-electro mechanical steering rack with separate control for steering pressure.
-Volk LE37T Wheels 17"x 7.5 16.5 lbs
-Dunlop 225-45-17 9000 tires
-Brembo front big brake kit and matching rear cross drilled rear rotors
- tracton bars
-stillen Triangulated front strut tower bar
-Blehnco stage 2 Lower Tie Bar rods
-Courtesy Nissan rear strut tower bar
-Addco rear anti roll bar
-H & R rear 25 mm wheel spacers
-Energy Suspension bushings for front suspension and motor mounts and
rear trailing arms
-Roll bar attached to chassis at 8 points
With all these mods my car should handle well!
-
Going around curves is different. I can fly around curves and the car stays planted.
My suspension includes:
-full JIC Magic FLT-A2 Coilovers.
-electro mechanical steering rack with separate control for steering pressure.
-Volk LE37T Wheels 17"x 7.5 16.5 lbs
-Dunlop 225-45-17 9000 tires
-Brembo front big brake kit and matching rear cross drilled rear rotors
- tracton bars
-stillen Triangulated front strut tower bar
-Blehnco stage 2 Lower Tie Bar rods
-Courtesy Nissan rear strut tower bar
-Addco rear anti roll bar
-H & R rear 25 mm wheel spacers
-Energy Suspension bushings for front suspension and motor mounts and
rear trailing arms
-Roll bar attached to chassis at 8 points
With all these mods my car should handle well!
-
Those of us with 202whp/201wtq don't have that problem
#32
Originally Posted by i30krab
Yes I do have Volk LE37T wheels 17" x7.5" wheels and I'm not buying new ones.
EDIT: I would just like to point out that my cheap Enkeis weigh less than one pound more than your l33t Volks.
Last edited by 95maxrider; 01-13-2008 at 05:18 PM.
#33
Point well taken! I'm so use to driving my car I really didn't remember there wasn't much or any torque steer when the car was first modified with much less horsepower. I remember at my first dyno the # was 150FWHP, I forget the torque #s
#34
Originally the car was so dropped I didn't have room to turn the front wheels with larger rims. I think the rims are 5 years old. Since then I raised the car more than 2" because I got tired of bottoming out and now I have the room but not the desire..
#35
[QUOTE=95maxrider;6188347]When did you re-dyno? I still got you beat by 3 whp
If you're l33t enough to buy one set of Volks, I'm sure you're l33t enough to buy another properly sized set of them Why did you choose the size you have now?
EDIT: I would just like to point out that my cheap Enkeis weigh less than one pound more than your l33t Volks. [/QUOTE]What size, model, and weight enkei rims?
If you're l33t enough to buy one set of Volks, I'm sure you're l33t enough to buy another properly sized set of them Why did you choose the size you have now?
EDIT: I would just like to point out that my cheap Enkeis weigh less than one pound more than your l33t Volks. [/QUOTE]What size, model, and weight enkei rims?
#36
#38
#39
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-14-2008 at 03:49 AM.
#40
This is a topic of interest for me. I thought my Maxima handled like a beast with coilovers and a nice set of tires. I could have an arm hanging out the window and one hand on the wheel while chasing my brother's then-stock Integra around an onramp while he squealed tires and damn near lifted a wheel just trying to stay in front of me.
Then I borrowed my friend's E36 M3 for a week and watched it blow my Maxima into the weeds on snow tires.
There's a lot behind that and I agree that it doesn't really all have to be discussed. The point is that it's a HUGE waste of time and money to try to make your car do something it wasn't designed to do, just to try to compete with a car that does that thing better than almost everyone. Yes, modding is fun, and putting the hurt on people who think you're driving Mom's grocery getter can be a lot of fun. If you're going to mod, mod for that reason.
If you want to mod your Max, my advice mirrors what's been said: Koni dampers, Eibach springs, and every last shred of chassis stiffening you can find. Seriously. Short of generic eBay crap, every time you come across something that strengthens your car's structure, get it. Polyurethane bushings are also pretty much a necessity. Lastly, stay away from heavy rims. Don't get 18"s unless you're shelling out SERIOUS coin for forged lightweight ones. You want your wheels to move with the suspension, so make them as light as you can.
Then I borrowed my friend's E36 M3 for a week and watched it blow my Maxima into the weeds on snow tires.
There's a lot behind that and I agree that it doesn't really all have to be discussed. The point is that it's a HUGE waste of time and money to try to make your car do something it wasn't designed to do, just to try to compete with a car that does that thing better than almost everyone. Yes, modding is fun, and putting the hurt on people who think you're driving Mom's grocery getter can be a lot of fun. If you're going to mod, mod for that reason.
If you want to mod your Max, my advice mirrors what's been said: Koni dampers, Eibach springs, and every last shred of chassis stiffening you can find. Seriously. Short of generic eBay crap, every time you come across something that strengthens your car's structure, get it. Polyurethane bushings are also pretty much a necessity. Lastly, stay away from heavy rims. Don't get 18"s unless you're shelling out SERIOUS coin for forged lightweight ones. You want your wheels to move with the suspension, so make them as light as you can.