Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and BrakingTalk about suspension geometry, advanced handling/chassis setup, custom brakes, etc. NOT your basic brake pads and "best drop" Information.
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I'm looking to upgrade my stock brakes on my 6th gen because the rotors warp < 20,000 miles. Mileage is about 80% highway and I'm not a last second braker or even a speed freak.
Are slotted rotors worth the money where they'll last longer without warpage? I've seen deals on slotted/crossdrilled rotors c/w semi-metallic pads for < $300 through R1.
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I was in the same predicament a while ago and ended up going for the blanks. Slotted would help a LITTLE if you were to be autoxing your car often, but other than that, it's not really worth it.
Also, down the road not too many shops would be willing to "cut" the rotors because the slots could possibly screw up their machines.
The slots also reduce the amount of surface area that the pads can grab onto, so that also reduces braking distance. As for the "cooling," like I said unless you do 100+mph braking down to 40mph stops within a short amount of distance very often, then you sure as hell don't need these.
btw, slotted would not help autocrossing in any way, shape, or form. They are a waste of money, as are drilled rotors - unless looks is all you're looking for.
btw, slotted would not help autocrossing in any way, shape, or form. They are a waste of money, as are drilled rotors - unless looks is all you're looking for.
^^^ that too ^^^ I just woke up from a long nap and couldn't cover every aspect!
Out of curiosity, why would a huge corporation like Mercedes Benz throw drilled rotors on some of their higher end AMG models?
Mainly for the "wow" effect and it's easier to price-up the rotors since they are "performance rotors from Mercedes" lol Another thing is that they will be eating through the pads like crazy, and I doubt that they would be willing to "cut" the rotors and instead would make excuses that the drills/slots would **** up their machines. So imo it's mainly a money market for benz...for my moms ML320 they wanted close to $1,500 if not more for f/r rotors and pads. I told my dad to get autozone stuff and he ended up paying $<500, if that and both of us installed them in a couple of hours.
But then again, these are cars that can easily do spirited runs up to 155mph regularly and maybe that's why the engineers thought of the "venting" advantages, even though for a daily driver it is totally unnecessary.
My experience is that using Cross-Drilled or Slotted rotors will have little effect unless you are really leaning on them. A time when it will make a difference is if it is raining, but even then it will not be too noticeable under normal conditions. Emergency braking in wet or snowy weather, maybe.
Two key comments. First, match the pads and rotors to your driving style. If you drive normally 95% of the time (fast is okay, I mean how much do you use your brakes), I'de use regular pads and rotors. If you drive hard, brake a lot and late brake, you might try semi-metallic. Unless you autocross I would skip even thinking ceramic as you'll never get enough heat in them to make them work properly on the street. Second, do not cheap out. My last set of rotors were inexpensive cross-drilled (about $70 each) and they warped within 10k miles. At under 15k I had to replace front pads and rotors, and I am a 95% normal type driver. When they were new you could sense a slight difference in the rain, but after a couple of 1000 miles they lost it. I just replaced them with good quality, but not expensive, pads and blank rotors.
If you're doing regular track days then you could possibly justify slotted as they effectively "clean" the pads, but they're more prone to cracking and eat up your pads quicker.
The main you'll see race cars using cross-drilled rotors is for unsprung weight savings, not cooling.
Cross-drilled smallish rotors with low-gas pads: rice.
i differ here on this subject. i put a set of stock sized EBC dimpled and slotted rotors along with EBC green stuff pads on my Lincoln Mark VIII. i did notice a big difference in braking power and brake fade is quick stops from 120+ mph down to 20-30 mph.
i also have to disagree in the slotted rotors wearing down pads faster they have been on my car for about a year and a half now and i still have just under 1/2 pad left. one thing that you have to be wery of is cracking with drilled and slotted rotors. if you do get rotors with holes drilled all the way through dont get cheep ones they will crack.
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2000 bonneville SSEi 3.8L supercharged : 3.3 pulley on blower, headers with 3" exhaust back to flowmasters, DHP tune by me, 285/40ZR17's on front and still spinning
88 chevy k2500: sm465 4 speed with granny low, 3" body lift, 35x12.50 BGF MT's, converted from TBI to carb, motor rebuilt by me with small cam, alum intake, and headders
lol Another thing is that they will be eating through the pads like crazy, and I doubt that they would be willing to "cut" the rotors and instead would make excuses that the drills/slots would **** up their machines. So imo it's mainly a money market for benz...for my moms ML320 they wanted close to $1,500 if not more for f/r rotors and pads. I told my dad to get autozone stuff and he ended up paying $<500, if that and both of us installed them in a couple of hours.
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