Steering Wheel Lock Issue
11-30-2012, 05:32 PM
#1
Steering Wheel Lock Issue
Lets get this started if you've had this issue and had to get it replaced go here and fill out since Nissan refuses to make this a recall even though it happens on the 370Z and GTR
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
11-30-2012, 05:47 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
For those who don't know, the steering wheel lock issue is leaving Maximas stranded unable to start the car with these symptoms: What happens is when you try to start the car, without warning, the electric lock fails to unlock sending error message to the BCM. The car will not start in this case and will flash the Intelligent Key warning in the cluster.
This is a KNOWN ISSUE for 370z's and GT-R's built around the same time period, and all three cars use the SAME EXACT part number for the unit that is being replaced to fix this problem.
I have copied and pasted text from the 370Z post, which links to the original GTR posts. READ ABOUT THIS, IF IT HAS HAPPENED TO YOU OR SOMEONE YOU KNOW WE NEED TO GET THIS MADE A RECALL FOR THE 2009+ NISSAN MAXIMA's AS WELL. THIS EXACT PART IS RECALLED BY NISSAN FOR THE GT-R! They have left the 370z and Maxima owners to pay for their mistakes out of pocket! $500+ for the part alone! This is unacceptable for obvious reasons.
Quoted from 370z.com (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...rly-2010s.html)
Original link from GTR Life (http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/...ring-lock-fix/)
FILL OUT A COMPLAINT FORM HERE TO HELP MAKE THIS A RECALL - https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
- If you have 48700-JF00A or 48700-JF00B, chances are your lock will fail.
- It was confirmed Nissan was using RevB to Fall 2009. A Oct2009 build 2010 Nismo
was using RevB and had a faulty lock.
- Nissan mentioned on the GTR recall that the steering lock was over oiled during
assembly causing some sort of electrical failure... but members are finding other
failures where the electric actuator was seized due to gear/shaft assembly malfunction.
- A member with a 40th 370Z with Jan 2010 build also fell victim on 1/19/2012..
He took a snap for us and verified that his lock is RevC. which means if his lock
suffered the same issue as the RevA and B, GTR's with the recalled locks that used RevC
could fail again. We will not know for sure though as it could have failed for another
isolated reason. Let's just hope this was an isolated incident.
- Nissan stopped using these locks on the 2012 Z's entirely, confirmed by a member
who looked on her car for us... which is not very convincing for those of us stuck with
the 'old' system. another member confirmed he could turn the steering L/R by hand
pushing on the tires while the front end is off the ground, car turned off....so there is
no substitute mechanism on the 3/2011 build to present.
2) Where to look for your steering lock revision:
- You can look under the steering column and see which revision your car has
(details where and what to look for, see DIY below)
- Your car's build date is located on the driver side door jam label.
- If you are currently stranded, scroll all the way to the bottom of the DIY for
temporary remedies to try.
3) How do I know if my steering lock is working?
- The motorized winding noise you hear when you push your starter-button is
your steering lock unlocking. You dont even need to start the car. Just push
your starter-button once to ACC. You hear a wind up noise from under the
steering column. That's the steering lock unlocking itself.
- You can also hear it when you shut down the car. Without starting the car
continue to push the starter-button twice to turn off. You will hear a winding
noise again.
Note: The steering-lock locks independently to the door locks so even if you
don't lock the doors the steering-lock functions.
4) DIY:
From here forward, do this at your own risk! Information and how-to is to
the best of my knowledge.
The replacement part is (revD and E): 48700-JF00D or 48700-JF00E.
If you can, get the JF00D or JF00E as there is uncertainty on the RevC's reliability.
Price is about $500 each.
This is RevC:
while this might be a $500 part, it could cost me WAAAY more repairing/replacing
other parts from the towing and while sitting at the dealership waiting for the part
to come in. dont have time to be worrying about that.
Security screws (2pcs per set): 48703-06F0A (i used metric fastners
instead for easy removal next time... hope not).
here are tools i used. angled needle nosed pliers, flashlight, and a socket
for my replacement screws.
the key here is the angled needle nosed pliers. you need it to grab hold of
the security screw on the factory unit (2pcs) to remove. there is no hex or
phillip head.
stick your head under the steering column and look upwards for the steering
lock. the bottom part of the lock looks like this... it's actually in your face if
you take a good look with a flashlight.
(picture missing)
remove the 2 round headed screws using the needle nosed angled pliers.
it's not torqued in all that tight, but it takes some effort to loosen. once
you get one of the 2 off, you can giggle the steering lock with your hand
to make the 2nd screw removal easier.
Then unclip the hardness. The tab is on the top side and easy to unlatch.
here is what it looks outside the car...The greasy one is from factory. Mine
is still working so I will leave this in my trunk for now as backup.
(picture missing)
(The one i saw in the GTR forum which failed was shaped a little differently at the
top of the steering lock. The werd is the one that came off my car with RevB is
shaped the same way as the RevC aka revised lock). I am not sure if there is a
sub-revision within RevB or not, but watever... until Nissan explains this i didnt
feel like taking my chances or wasting my time worrying about this known problem).
Nissan mentioned on the GTR recall that the steering lock was over oiled during
assembly causing some sort of electrical failure so external appearance doesn't
seem to matter).
since my car's a hobby car and security isn't really an issue, i used 2 metric
bolts when putting it back together. I recommend you buy the security bolts
and see for yourself the length and width you need to buy if you decide to get
different screws.
The top screw is the Nissan security screw (the hex breaks off when
torqued). The bottom one is a regular metric screw i had in my screw
bin.
(picture missing)
to put back together do everything in reverse.
here's a finished pict with my regular metric fastners. this will make it real easy to remove next time.
(picture missing)
This is a KNOWN ISSUE for 370z's and GT-R's built around the same time period, and all three cars use the SAME EXACT part number for the unit that is being replaced to fix this problem.
I have copied and pasted text from the 370Z post, which links to the original GTR posts. READ ABOUT THIS, IF IT HAS HAPPENED TO YOU OR SOMEONE YOU KNOW WE NEED TO GET THIS MADE A RECALL FOR THE 2009+ NISSAN MAXIMA's AS WELL. THIS EXACT PART IS RECALLED BY NISSAN FOR THE GT-R! They have left the 370z and Maxima owners to pay for their mistakes out of pocket! $500+ for the part alone! This is unacceptable for obvious reasons.
Quoted from 370z.com (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...rly-2010s.html)
Original link from GTR Life (http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/...ring-lock-fix/)
FILL OUT A COMPLAINT FORM HERE TO HELP MAKE THIS A RECALL - https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
- If you have 48700-JF00A or 48700-JF00B, chances are your lock will fail.
- It was confirmed Nissan was using RevB to Fall 2009. A Oct2009 build 2010 Nismo
was using RevB and had a faulty lock.
- Nissan mentioned on the GTR recall that the steering lock was over oiled during
assembly causing some sort of electrical failure... but members are finding other
failures where the electric actuator was seized due to gear/shaft assembly malfunction.
- A member with a 40th 370Z with Jan 2010 build also fell victim on 1/19/2012..
He took a snap for us and verified that his lock is RevC. which means if his lock
suffered the same issue as the RevA and B, GTR's with the recalled locks that used RevC
could fail again. We will not know for sure though as it could have failed for another
isolated reason. Let's just hope this was an isolated incident.
- Nissan stopped using these locks on the 2012 Z's entirely, confirmed by a member
who looked on her car for us... which is not very convincing for those of us stuck with
the 'old' system. another member confirmed he could turn the steering L/R by hand
pushing on the tires while the front end is off the ground, car turned off....so there is
no substitute mechanism on the 3/2011 build to present.
2) Where to look for your steering lock revision:
- You can look under the steering column and see which revision your car has
(details where and what to look for, see DIY below)
- Your car's build date is located on the driver side door jam label.
- If you are currently stranded, scroll all the way to the bottom of the DIY for
temporary remedies to try.
3) How do I know if my steering lock is working?
- The motorized winding noise you hear when you push your starter-button is
your steering lock unlocking. You dont even need to start the car. Just push
your starter-button once to ACC. You hear a wind up noise from under the
steering column. That's the steering lock unlocking itself.
- You can also hear it when you shut down the car. Without starting the car
continue to push the starter-button twice to turn off. You will hear a winding
noise again.
Note: The steering-lock locks independently to the door locks so even if you
don't lock the doors the steering-lock functions.
4) DIY:
From here forward, do this at your own risk! Information and how-to is to
the best of my knowledge.
The replacement part is (revD and E): 48700-JF00D or 48700-JF00E.
If you can, get the JF00D or JF00E as there is uncertainty on the RevC's reliability.
Price is about $500 each.
This is RevC:
while this might be a $500 part, it could cost me WAAAY more repairing/replacing
other parts from the towing and while sitting at the dealership waiting for the part
to come in. dont have time to be worrying about that.
Security screws (2pcs per set): 48703-06F0A (i used metric fastners
instead for easy removal next time... hope not).
here are tools i used. angled needle nosed pliers, flashlight, and a socket
for my replacement screws.
the key here is the angled needle nosed pliers. you need it to grab hold of
the security screw on the factory unit (2pcs) to remove. there is no hex or
phillip head.
stick your head under the steering column and look upwards for the steering
lock. the bottom part of the lock looks like this... it's actually in your face if
you take a good look with a flashlight.
(picture missing)
remove the 2 round headed screws using the needle nosed angled pliers.
it's not torqued in all that tight, but it takes some effort to loosen. once
you get one of the 2 off, you can giggle the steering lock with your hand
to make the 2nd screw removal easier.
Then unclip the hardness. The tab is on the top side and easy to unlatch.
here is what it looks outside the car...The greasy one is from factory. Mine
is still working so I will leave this in my trunk for now as backup.
(picture missing)
(The one i saw in the GTR forum which failed was shaped a little differently at the
top of the steering lock. The werd is the one that came off my car with RevB is
shaped the same way as the RevC aka revised lock). I am not sure if there is a
sub-revision within RevB or not, but watever... until Nissan explains this i didnt
feel like taking my chances or wasting my time worrying about this known problem).
Nissan mentioned on the GTR recall that the steering lock was over oiled during
assembly causing some sort of electrical failure so external appearance doesn't
seem to matter).
since my car's a hobby car and security isn't really an issue, i used 2 metric
bolts when putting it back together. I recommend you buy the security bolts
and see for yourself the length and width you need to buy if you decide to get
different screws.
The top screw is the Nissan security screw (the hex breaks off when
torqued). The bottom one is a regular metric screw i had in my screw
bin.
(picture missing)
to put back together do everything in reverse.
here's a finished pict with my regular metric fastners. this will make it real easy to remove next time.
(picture missing)
11-30-2012, 05:51 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
HERE IS IMPORTANT INFORMATION! IF THIS HAPPENS TO YOU TRY THE FOLLOWING (quoted from 370z.com)
-- TEMPORARY POTENTIAL SOLUTIONS TO TRY IF YOU ARE STRANDED --
1) Try the edmunds technique.... Turn the car off completely. Unlock your steering column (the lever under the steering) and abruptly move the steering wheel all the way up and down several times while hitting the push-start button once to ACC. If you hear a winding nose your steering-lock is free and should start the car...continue starting the car. If you dont hear it, re-try.
2) Try the tapping technique (if you want to call it that).... Turn the car off. get under your steering column, locate your steering lock, tap at the steering lock itself GENTLY with a small hammer or plastic mallet...while you press the start button once. or even use one of your metal temporary tools in the trunk. If you hear a winding noise coming from the steering-lock it is free. You should be able to start the car. Continue to start the car. If you don't hear the noise continue tapping it and cycle through the starter button ACC/ON/OFF a few times slowly.
3) Try unplugging the steering lock harness and tap at the steering lock gently, plug it back in and try #2) above.
Also, here is at least one thread posted on here already about this issue. We need to collect links to the rest and put them all in here. I've heard of 2 Maximas having this happen just THIS WEEK!
http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...ont-start.html
MODS PLEASE STICKY THIS!
-- TEMPORARY POTENTIAL SOLUTIONS TO TRY IF YOU ARE STRANDED --
1) Try the edmunds technique.... Turn the car off completely. Unlock your steering column (the lever under the steering) and abruptly move the steering wheel all the way up and down several times while hitting the push-start button once to ACC. If you hear a winding nose your steering-lock is free and should start the car...continue starting the car. If you dont hear it, re-try.
2) Try the tapping technique (if you want to call it that).... Turn the car off. get under your steering column, locate your steering lock, tap at the steering lock itself GENTLY with a small hammer or plastic mallet...while you press the start button once. or even use one of your metal temporary tools in the trunk. If you hear a winding noise coming from the steering-lock it is free. You should be able to start the car. Continue to start the car. If you don't hear the noise continue tapping it and cycle through the starter button ACC/ON/OFF a few times slowly.
3) Try unplugging the steering lock harness and tap at the steering lock gently, plug it back in and try #2) above.
Also, here is at least one thread posted on here already about this issue. We need to collect links to the rest and put them all in here. I've heard of 2 Maximas having this happen just THIS WEEK!
http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...ont-start.html
MODS PLEASE STICKY THIS!
12-03-2012, 02:24 PM
#9
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Manhattan Beach, Ca / Dallas, Tx
Posts: 3,751
Alot of us Z guys have went through a process where we removed the fuse to disable it, so we would not have to deal with it. It posted on the370z.com someplace, I'm sure the process would be similar for the Max http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...lved-real.html
12-03-2012, 03:22 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
Monte if this works you may be a savior for a lot of people here. This is an $800+ repair out of pocket. I'd be really curious for someone to try this if they're having the issue still.
The issue seems to have been resolved in 2010+ as only Maximas/Z's/GTR's built before November 2009 have this exact part. Later models either have the updated part or took it out completely.
The issue seems to have been resolved in 2010+ as only Maximas/Z's/GTR's built before November 2009 have this exact part. Later models either have the updated part or took it out completely.
12-03-2012, 04:19 PM
#12
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Manhattan Beach, Ca / Dallas, Tx
Posts: 3,751
Monte if this works you may be a savior for a lot of people here. This is an $800+ repair out of pocket. I'd be really curious for someone to try this if they're having the issue still.
The issue seems to have been resolved in 2010+ as only Maximas/Z's/GTR's built before November 2009 have this exact part. Later models either have the updated part or took it out completely.
The issue seems to have been resolved in 2010+ as only Maximas/Z's/GTR's built before November 2009 have this exact part. Later models either have the updated part or took it out completely.
Last edited by MONTE 01&97 SE; 12-03-2012 at 04:29 PM.
12-13-2012, 08:18 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
if yours is already stuck then no the fuse option won't work. you need to do the fuse thing before your steering column control unit fails. try some of the other temp suggestions to get it working one more time and then do the fuse method.
Last edited by Ghozt; 12-13-2012 at 08:21 AM.
12-13-2012, 08:23 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: MA/NH border
Posts: 636
Lets get this started if you've had this issue and had to get it replaced go here and fill out since Nissan refuses to make this a recall even though it happens on the 370Z and GTR
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
12-13-2012, 08:40 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
01-02-2013, 03:34 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
its in the engine bay next to the battery in the fuse box. just pop the top (you press on some plastic clips on the sides to release it) and look on the inside of the top it has a diagram explaining which fuse is what. turn the car on completely, then take out the Steering Column Lockout fuse it will be on the main fuse block (there's an additional small one on the side) and you can get it out with needlenose plyers if you dont have a fuse puller.
ive had mine out for a while now and car drives fine with it out. definitely not chancing that module failing on me
ive had mine out for a while now and car drives fine with it out. definitely not chancing that module failing on me
01-02-2013, 05:17 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
yeah i read somewhere that Nissan had an updated unit in 2010 and 2011's but removed it from 2012+
this goes for the Z's and GTRs I believe as well.
does anyone know what the functional purpose of the unit is? so you cant turn the wheel when you're parked?
this goes for the Z's and GTRs I believe as well.
does anyone know what the functional purpose of the unit is? so you cant turn the wheel when you're parked?
01-02-2013, 06:38 PM
#21
Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Toronto, Ont (GTA)
Posts: 232
A few of people on here have already removed the fuse labeled "Steering Lock" in the fuse panel under your hood. Since my car is a 09 with 30,000km's on it I didn't want to take the chance of it happening to me. I removed the 10amp (red) fuse the other night, and I can confirm it works. In all it took about 1 min to do.
The down side is that since your steering lock is now disable you can turn your wheel in either directions. If you are parking on a hill or downhill, please use your parking brake. (Yes I know most of you do use it but there are alot of people that never use their parking brake). I don't like to do it this way, but I don't want to fork out $800.00++ bucks.
The down side is that since your steering lock is now disable you can turn your wheel in either directions. If you are parking on a hill or downhill, please use your parking brake. (Yes I know most of you do use it but there are alot of people that never use their parking brake). I don't like to do it this way, but I don't want to fork out $800.00++ bucks.
01-03-2013, 09:16 AM
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 50
Just tried to remove the fuse in my '10 max... to my surprise there was no fuse. They must have removed it from the factory. The fuse box cover clearly identifies it as Steering Lock - and the fuse is missing. This must be Nissan's "fix" for the problem... at least for the '10 model.
01-03-2013, 01:03 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
Just tried to remove the fuse in my '10 max... to my surprise there was no fuse. They must have removed it from the factory. The fuse box cover clearly identifies it as Steering Lock - and the fuse is missing. This must be Nissan's "fix" for the problem... at least for the '10 model.
01-04-2013, 05:26 AM
#24
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 17
For what it is worth our '09 Maxima had its Steering Lock fail at ~39,400 miles two days ago and the replacement part on the invoice Nissan used was 48700-9N00B. I could yank off the column trim and take a look at the lock to confirm if that part # is on the lock itself or just a universal "lock" P/N they use for invoicing. Thankfully the extended warranty we purchased covered the part and the roadside assistance tow.
01-05-2013, 05:15 PM
#26
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 696
01-23-2013, 05:50 PM
#29
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1
So this happened to me today as well (2010 Maxima, 83k miles). Stranded in a parking deck and had my car towed to the dealership. Said that it was the steering lock control unit and the part is on back order until February (who knows when??) and that it would cost me $700+ to fix. Is there anything I can do or is it to late to try to take out the fuse as suggested below? Please help...so frustrated!! I just submitted a complaint though!
01-23-2013, 06:31 PM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 54
So this happened to me today as well (2010 Maxima, 83k miles). Stranded in a parking deck and had my car towed to the dealership. Said that it was the steering lock control unit and the part is on back order until February (who knows when??) and that it would cost me $700+ to fix. Is there anything I can do or is it to late to try to take out the fuse as suggested below? Please help...so frustrated!! I just submitted a complaint though!
02-06-2013, 04:50 PM
#31
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 8
thanks for the info guys
My 2009 maxima started the "no start" issue today. Only 25,000 miles on the odometer. The symptoms described fit exactly what I'm experiencing now. Key light is on over on the left side of the dash and the ignition button just stays with the "Lock " light lit up. Just joined the forum. Wish I had joined sooner. The car battery is only a year old as it was replaced under warranty because the original Nissan battery crapped out after only 2 years. Remote batteries are good. Will do a quick check tomorrow to rule out a possible faulty brake light switch. I'm going to try the tapping technique tomorrow. Hopefully I can get it to work long enough to disengage so that I can pull the fuse. I'm gonna try every avenue before I break down and spend $800 on a part that shouldn't be giving me problems in the first place. Many thanks to the forum members for all of this valuable information. I'll keep you posted.
02-06-2013, 06:01 PM
#32
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 54
My 2009 maxima started the "no start" issue today. Only 25,000 miles on the odometer. The symptoms described fit exactly what I'm experiencing now. Key light is on over on the left side of the dash and the ignition button just stays with the "Lock " light lit up. Just joined the forum. Wish I had joined sooner. The car battery is only a year old as it was replaced under warranty because the original Nissan battery crapped out after only 2 years. Remote batteries are good. Will do a quick check tomorrow to rule out a possible faulty brake light switch. I'm going to try the tapping technique tomorrow. Hopefully I can get it to work long enough to disengage so that I can pull the fuse. I'm gonna try every avenue before I break down and spend $800 on a part that shouldn't be giving me problems in the first place. Many thanks to the forum members for all of this valuable information. I'll keep you posted.
Just a heads up, if you do spend that $800..file a claim with BBB on this issue. I was in the same boat as you, had to spend $860, and i complained and Nissan gave me the best warranty they have for free. But you said your car is 25,000k miles? You should be good under the basic 36,000k mile warranty?
02-07-2013, 08:18 AM
#34
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
02-07-2013, 08:20 AM
#35
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 8
Thanks Peppa sauce. I will definately be filing a complaint if I have to pay for this to be fixed. I might even file.a.complaint just for the hassle anyway. Is it possible to just remove the unit or does it actually have to deactivate and then pull the fuse?
02-07-2013, 08:48 AM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
I don't think the battery will help at this point - try these 3 a few times. If you can't resolve it yourself, as mentioned above the car should still be under factory warranty (up to 36,000 miles) so it may be a pain but they should definitely take care of this for you.
-- TEMPORARY POTENTIAL SOLUTIONS TO TRY IF YOU ARE STRANDED --
1) Try the edmunds technique.... Turn the car off completely. Unlock your steering column (the lever under the steering) and abruptly move the steering wheel all the way up and down several times while hitting the push-start button once to ACC. If you hear a winding nose your steering-lock is free and should start the car...continue starting the car. If you dont hear it, re-try.
2) Try the tapping technique (if you want to call it that).... Turn the car off. get under your steering column, locate your steering lock, tap at the steering lock itself GENTLY with a small hammer or plastic mallet...while you press the start button once. or even use one of your metal temporary tools in the trunk. If you hear a winding noise coming from the steering-lock it is free. You should be able to start the car. Continue to start the car. If you don't hear the noise continue tapping it and cycle through the starter button ACC/ON/OFF a few times slowly.
3) Try unplugging the steering lock harness and tap at the steering lock gently, plug it back in and try #2) above.
-- TEMPORARY POTENTIAL SOLUTIONS TO TRY IF YOU ARE STRANDED --
1) Try the edmunds technique.... Turn the car off completely. Unlock your steering column (the lever under the steering) and abruptly move the steering wheel all the way up and down several times while hitting the push-start button once to ACC. If you hear a winding nose your steering-lock is free and should start the car...continue starting the car. If you dont hear it, re-try.
2) Try the tapping technique (if you want to call it that).... Turn the car off. get under your steering column, locate your steering lock, tap at the steering lock itself GENTLY with a small hammer or plastic mallet...while you press the start button once. or even use one of your metal temporary tools in the trunk. If you hear a winding noise coming from the steering-lock it is free. You should be able to start the car. Continue to start the car. If you don't hear the noise continue tapping it and cycle through the starter button ACC/ON/OFF a few times slowly.
3) Try unplugging the steering lock harness and tap at the steering lock gently, plug it back in and try #2) above.
02-07-2013, 09:39 AM
#38
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 8
Car has under way under 36000 miles but unfortunately, as the dealer has already informed.me, the 36 months expired on October 31 of 2012. The strange thing is, I can get the car to start up using the remote starter. And the steering is unlocked because I can turn the wheel side to side but the minute I put my foot on the brake to shift into gear, the car shuts off. I have to re press the start button and it won't start and steering is locked. Gonna have to call the tow truck this afternoon to get it out of my.workplace parking lot because we're supposed to get hammered by a snowstorm tomorrow here in Mass.
02-07-2013, 03:10 PM
#39
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 8
Well, my suspicions were confirmed this afternoon. After trying all of the suggestions, my steering would not unlock. Thanks to all of you for your help. At least I gave it a try. Had car towed to the dealer and they took it in right away to check it out. They called me less than 3 hours later to confirm that the steering lock mechanism is junk. The car has 25,700 miles. I authorized the repairs but also asked the Head technician to contact the area Nissan rep because I intend to file a complaint. Keep you posted.
02-08-2013, 08:01 AM
#40
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 8
Got a call from the tech at Mastria Nissan in Raynham Mass this morning to let me know that they had the part shipped overnight and my car was ready to be picked up. I had him save the old part for me. I intend to file a complaint about this situation with Nissan Customer Service while at the same time I want to let them know how very satisfied I am with the dealership. These guys have been awesome every time I have had to deal with them. I understand this is not a dealer issue but a corporate one and I intend to file a complaint with every agency I can to do my part to make sure this problem gets recognized and addressed.
