Clay bar vs. Rubbing Compound
10-16-2008, 11:23 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 91
Clay bar vs. Rubbing Compound
Hey guys,
Washed & waxed my Max over the weekend. I noticed there are still some dead bugs in front, imperfections and small stains in the paint. I remember a while back on a different car, I used some rubbing compound and it took everything out. Is rubbing compound better or worse for the paint over the Meguires Clay Bar?
Thanks!!
Washed & waxed my Max over the weekend. I noticed there are still some dead bugs in front, imperfections and small stains in the paint. I remember a while back on a different car, I used some rubbing compound and it took everything out. Is rubbing compound better or worse for the paint over the Meguires Clay Bar?
Thanks!!
10-16-2008, 02:16 PM
#2
Hey guys,
Washed & waxed my Max over the weekend. I noticed there are still some dead bugs in front, imperfections and small stains in the paint. I remember a while back on a different car, I used some rubbing compound and it took everything out. Is rubbing compound better or worse for the paint over the Meguires Clay Bar?
Thanks!!
Washed & waxed my Max over the weekend. I noticed there are still some dead bugs in front, imperfections and small stains in the paint. I remember a while back on a different car, I used some rubbing compound and it took everything out. Is rubbing compound better or worse for the paint over the Meguires Clay Bar?
Thanks!!
10-28-2008, 12:38 PM
#6
Clay bars and rubbing compounds have some overlap in their respective application like removing dead bugs, tar, etc. However, a clay bar is far superior for removing bonded contaminants (if you run your hand across the paint and it has a gritty feel, you have bonded contaminants) and paint overspray. Compounds are typically more used to level your paint to remove swirls, scratches, etc.
11-10-2008, 10:28 AM
#7
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: NC
Posts: 7
Scottwax is right. A clay bar will remove the contaminants that are on top of your paint, chrome or windows etc. However, a compound will work to remove a micro layer of paint to remove any scratches, swirl marks, etc. We always clay before we compound, polish and wax. Otherwise you are running the contaminants back over the surface. Those contaminants if left untreated will, over time, dull your paint and speed up the corrosion process. 2 different products and uses, but both need to be done, but done properly. Remember, using the proper techniques are just as important as what products you use. Check out our full line of products at www.QuikShineGarage.com.
Thanks
Thanks
12-04-2008, 01:54 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: West Mobile, AL.
Posts: 63
You can't compare clay bar to rubbing compound, they serve two completely different purposes. Chances are you need one or the other depending on the quality of your paint. If your paint is oxidized enough to require rubbing compound, you are way past the needs for a clay bar. If your paint is well-maintained and glossy, a clay bar is needed to remove surface contaminents before you polish, glaze, and seal it all in with a good wax. Just my 2 pennies!
06-29-2010, 10:54 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 836
In that case, a third of a bar should take care of it. The horizontal surfaces are usually much worse than vertical panels - which should have almost nothing on them if your car is that new. Use plenty of lube!
07-01-2010, 09:11 AM
#16
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 18
07-10-2010, 06:16 PM
#18
02-04-2012, 03:40 PM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 53
I found an old Mother's clay bar kit in my garage. I started working on little spots to entire panels on the Maxima because it had a gritty feel to the paint, windows, and trim. All i can say is wow what at difference. Unfortunately I used paper towels (Bounty). Is that ok? Ill probably buy a bunch of terry cloth towels.
What brand of detailing products do most people use? What is a good wash?
What is a good brand wax and do you use a power tool to polish or do you use good ol elbow grease?
Also, what kinds of tools are available to remove dust etc? After a few days of driving I always notice a layer of dust.
Finally, for touch up paint, what is the best way to apply it flush to the paint? I always end up with gobs that look very obvious. Thanks!
What brand of detailing products do most people use? What is a good wash?
What is a good brand wax and do you use a power tool to polish or do you use good ol elbow grease?
Also, what kinds of tools are available to remove dust etc? After a few days of driving I always notice a layer of dust.
Finally, for touch up paint, what is the best way to apply it flush to the paint? I always end up with gobs that look very obvious. Thanks!
02-04-2012, 03:55 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Bumping an old thread with a bunch of questions...
You could use terry cloth towels, but I use microfiber towels for almost everything, from the paint to dusting the interior and cleaning the windows on the inside. I use different towels for different uses to prevent cross-contamination.
As far as brands go, i've had good luck with Meguiar's. I used to detail high end cars such as Porsche's, Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari's, Bentley's, etc., and never had any problems with any products not working as advertised.
Before you wax, you want to claybar first. That lifts and removes all the grit and impurities that can get into the pores of the paint. So, when you wax after that, the wax fills in and gets into those pores that were previously blocked, resulting in a much smoother surface to the touch and much better wax protection. You will also notice much better water beading as well.
To make quick work of it, you can use an inexpensive orbital waxer. A foam pad with velcro will stick onto it. This makes waxing a car much faster and you can overlap your passes on each section. It also spreads the wax much more evenly as well.
Btw, don't use that old fashoned rubbing compound. That stuff has been around since cars were painted with enamel paint. I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with great success. If you still have a good shine, then a cleaner wax or the Nxt Gen wax works great.
You could use terry cloth towels, but I use microfiber towels for almost everything, from the paint to dusting the interior and cleaning the windows on the inside. I use different towels for different uses to prevent cross-contamination.
As far as brands go, i've had good luck with Meguiar's. I used to detail high end cars such as Porsche's, Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari's, Bentley's, etc., and never had any problems with any products not working as advertised.
Before you wax, you want to claybar first. That lifts and removes all the grit and impurities that can get into the pores of the paint. So, when you wax after that, the wax fills in and gets into those pores that were previously blocked, resulting in a much smoother surface to the touch and much better wax protection. You will also notice much better water beading as well.
To make quick work of it, you can use an inexpensive orbital waxer. A foam pad with velcro will stick onto it. This makes waxing a car much faster and you can overlap your passes on each section. It also spreads the wax much more evenly as well.
Btw, don't use that old fashoned rubbing compound. That stuff has been around since cars were painted with enamel paint. I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with great success. If you still have a good shine, then a cleaner wax or the Nxt Gen wax works great.
Last edited by T_Behr904; 02-04-2012 at 03:57 PM.
02-05-2012, 08:34 PM
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 53
Bumping an old thread with a bunch of questions...
You could use terry cloth towels, but I use microfiber towels for almost everything, from the paint to dusting the interior and cleaning the windows on the inside. I use different towels for different uses to prevent cross-contamination.
As far as brands go, i've had good luck with Meguiar's. I used to detail high end cars such as Porsche's, Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari's, Bentley's, etc., and never had any problems with any products not working as advertised.
Before you wax, you want to claybar first. That lifts and removes all the grit and impurities that can get into the pores of the paint. So, when you wax after that, the wax fills in and gets into those pores that were previously blocked, resulting in a much smoother surface to the touch and much better wax protection. You will also notice much better water beading as well.
To make quick work of it, you can use an inexpensive orbital waxer. A foam pad with velcro will stick onto it. This makes waxing a car much faster and you can overlap your passes on each section. It also spreads the wax much more evenly as well.
Btw, don't use that old fashoned rubbing compound. That stuff has been around since cars were painted with enamel paint. I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with great success. If you still have a good shine, then a cleaner wax or the Nxt Gen wax works great.
You could use terry cloth towels, but I use microfiber towels for almost everything, from the paint to dusting the interior and cleaning the windows on the inside. I use different towels for different uses to prevent cross-contamination.
As far as brands go, i've had good luck with Meguiar's. I used to detail high end cars such as Porsche's, Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari's, Bentley's, etc., and never had any problems with any products not working as advertised.
Before you wax, you want to claybar first. That lifts and removes all the grit and impurities that can get into the pores of the paint. So, when you wax after that, the wax fills in and gets into those pores that were previously blocked, resulting in a much smoother surface to the touch and much better wax protection. You will also notice much better water beading as well.
To make quick work of it, you can use an inexpensive orbital waxer. A foam pad with velcro will stick onto it. This makes waxing a car much faster and you can overlap your passes on each section. It also spreads the wax much more evenly as well.
Btw, don't use that old fashoned rubbing compound. That stuff has been around since cars were painted with enamel paint. I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with great success. If you still have a good shine, then a cleaner wax or the Nxt Gen wax works great.
Thank you for the detailed response. The orbital waxer will definitely save me some time.
02-05-2012, 08:43 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
I also have done Google searches on Maxima related stuff, and the links took me here to the Org. I bumped an old thread or two and pissed a few people off, but I try not to do that, depending on the thread topic.
02-05-2012, 10:44 PM
#24
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 14
Bumping an old thread with a bunch of questions...
You could use terry cloth towels, but I use microfiber towels for almost everything, from the paint to dusting the interior and cleaning the windows on the inside. I use different towels for different uses to prevent cross-contamination.
As far as brands go, i've had good luck with Meguiar's. I used to detail high end cars such as Porsche's, Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari's, Bentley's, etc., and never had any problems with any products not working as advertised.
Before you wax, you want to claybar first. That lifts and removes all the grit and impurities that can get into the pores of the paint. So, when you wax after that, the wax fills in and gets into those pores that were previously blocked, resulting in a much smoother surface to the touch and much better wax protection. You will also notice much better water beading as well.
To make quick work of it, you can use an inexpensive orbital waxer. A foam pad with velcro will stick onto it. This makes waxing a car much faster and you can overlap your passes on each section. It also spreads the wax much more evenly as well.
Btw, don't use that old fashioned rubbing compound. That stuff has been around since cars were painted with enamel paint. I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with great success. If you still have a good shine, then a cleaner wax or the Nxt Gen wax works great.
You could use terry cloth towels, but I use microfiber towels for almost everything, from the paint to dusting the interior and cleaning the windows on the inside. I use different towels for different uses to prevent cross-contamination.
As far as brands go, i've had good luck with Meguiar's. I used to detail high end cars such as Porsche's, Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari's, Bentley's, etc., and never had any problems with any products not working as advertised.
Before you wax, you want to claybar first. That lifts and removes all the grit and impurities that can get into the pores of the paint. So, when you wax after that, the wax fills in and gets into those pores that were previously blocked, resulting in a much smoother surface to the touch and much better wax protection. You will also notice much better water beading as well.
To make quick work of it, you can use an inexpensive orbital waxer. A foam pad with velcro will stick onto it. This makes waxing a car much faster and you can overlap your passes on each section. It also spreads the wax much more evenly as well.
Btw, don't use that old fashioned rubbing compound. That stuff has been around since cars were painted with enamel paint. I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with great success. If you still have a good shine, then a cleaner wax or the Nxt Gen wax works great.
As for the terry cloth I wouldn't. That cloth has a harsh texture and gets worse as you use it. you'll run high risk of causing fine scratches. As the quoted poster said I use micro fiber. I've got TONS of em. Different colors for different products or surfaces as stated to keep from cross contaminating.
05-14-2012, 08:36 AM
#26
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