.ORG, I need you ASAP. 03- P1610 NATS Malfunction
07-26-2011, 05:05 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
.ORG, I need you ASAP. 03- P1610 NATS Malfunction
I'm halfway through a purchase of a 2003 TE 6MT, and I need your guys help before I go all the way.
The car was listed AS IS, not running. Seller said he had a CPS, or CKPS code before, and a few days ago he was just driving, the car sputtered and died.
He assumed it was the CPS/CKPS (not sure which code he had). Now, I check the car over, it cranks and cranks but no start, and I get the following codes:
P0447 - Evap Vent
P1610 - NATS Malfunction
***** - NATS Malfunction
I forgot to write down the 2nd NATS code. I cleared the codes, the car fired right up. I drove it up and down the driveway, and parked it. I retrieved the codes again, and got:
CURRENT CODE: P0447 - Evap Vent
PENDING CODE:>>>>>>>>>>>P1610 - NATS Malfunction
What am I into here? Immobilizer module? Possibly just something silly? A dealer reset perhaps? Need you guys large here, I'll be researching all night, but please brainstorm with me, time is not on my side.
If I'm going to be into LARGE $$$ to fix this I need to know now, so I can walk away.
TIA
-Matt
The car was listed AS IS, not running. Seller said he had a CPS, or CKPS code before, and a few days ago he was just driving, the car sputtered and died.
He assumed it was the CPS/CKPS (not sure which code he had). Now, I check the car over, it cranks and cranks but no start, and I get the following codes:
P0447 - Evap Vent
P1610 - NATS Malfunction
***** - NATS Malfunction
I forgot to write down the 2nd NATS code. I cleared the codes, the car fired right up. I drove it up and down the driveway, and parked it. I retrieved the codes again, and got:
CURRENT CODE: P0447 - Evap Vent
PENDING CODE:>>>>>>>>>>>P1610 - NATS Malfunction
What am I into here? Immobilizer module? Possibly just something silly? A dealer reset perhaps? Need you guys large here, I'll be researching all night, but please brainstorm with me, time is not on my side.
If I'm going to be into LARGE $$$ to fix this I need to know now, so I can walk away.
TIA
-Matt
07-26-2011, 05:38 PM
#2
i get the 1610 everytime my battery runs below 10v.this happens to me when i run the stereo with the engine off i can tell when it happens cause when i start the car the security light will stay lit but be very dim it does go away for me after a short drive.you may also want to check if there is an aftermarket alarm or has been an aftermarket alarm in the car i have seen this may times while working in the install bay all it takes is some one to fool with the rf antenna wires for the key sence.im just giving you some previous experiences both personal and what i have seen happen they are both easy fixes and easy to check and i hope its a simple fix for you.
07-26-2011, 06:56 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
i get the 1610 everytime my battery runs below 10v.this happens to me when i run the stereo with the engine off i can tell when it happens cause when i start the car the security light will stay lit but be very dim it does go away for me after a short drive.you may also want to check if there is an aftermarket alarm or has been an aftermarket alarm in the car i have seen this may times while working in the install bay all it takes is some one to fool with the rf antenna wires for the key sence.im just giving you some previous experiences both personal and what i have seen happen they are both easy fixes and easy to check and i hope its a simple fix for you.
Can't say until the sale is done.
07-26-2011, 07:05 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
Ok so from what I've read so far, there are four 'common' circumstances that cause this code,
1. Failure of the NATS immobilizer unit
2. Faulty Key Chip
3. Attempting to crank the car over in excess of "x" times (unsure of specific number)
4. Signal interferance from another RF source in the car.
All of these things sound reasonably priced and fairly easy to fix. My concern is if it could be something else alltogether. I know the NATS immobilizer will prolly cost me $500 to swap out because I live in Canada and we get hosed on price. Plus I need to pay dealer to program, and keys (Id have 2 made up while Im at it)
Do you guys think there could be any higher expense than $500, or some serious gremlins going on here? Those would be 2 things that would make me walk away and just keep my AE
-Matt
1. Failure of the NATS immobilizer unit
2. Faulty Key Chip
3. Attempting to crank the car over in excess of "x" times (unsure of specific number)
4. Signal interferance from another RF source in the car.
All of these things sound reasonably priced and fairly easy to fix. My concern is if it could be something else alltogether. I know the NATS immobilizer will prolly cost me $500 to swap out because I live in Canada and we get hosed on price. Plus I need to pay dealer to program, and keys (Id have 2 made up while Im at it)
Do you guys think there could be any higher expense than $500, or some serious gremlins going on here? Those would be 2 things that would make me walk away and just keep my AE
-Matt
07-26-2011, 08:53 PM
#6
Ok so from what I've read so far, there are four 'common' circumstances that cause this code,
1. Failure of the NATS immobilizer unit
2. Faulty Key Chip
3. Attempting to crank the car over in excess of "x" times (unsure of specific number)
4. Signal interferance from another RF source in the car.
All of these things sound reasonably priced and fairly easy to fix. My concern is if it could be something else alltogether. I know the NATS immobilizer will prolly cost me $500 to swap out because I live in Canada and we get hosed on price. Plus I need to pay dealer to program, and keys (Id have 2 made up while Im at it)
Do you guys think there could be any higher expense than $500, or some serious gremlins going on here? Those would be 2 things that would make me walk away and just keep my AE
-Matt
1. Failure of the NATS immobilizer unit
2. Faulty Key Chip
3. Attempting to crank the car over in excess of "x" times (unsure of specific number)
4. Signal interferance from another RF source in the car.
All of these things sound reasonably priced and fairly easy to fix. My concern is if it could be something else alltogether. I know the NATS immobilizer will prolly cost me $500 to swap out because I live in Canada and we get hosed on price. Plus I need to pay dealer to program, and keys (Id have 2 made up while Im at it)
Do you guys think there could be any higher expense than $500, or some serious gremlins going on here? Those would be 2 things that would make me walk away and just keep my AE
-Matt
1. bump
2. I'd run through all the fuses for the lulz/it couldn't hurt to check
07-27-2011, 07:22 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
Ok got the car home, it shut off about 4 times on the way and the driver had to clear the ECU codes, then she would start back up. He said the car had NO power though the whole way, could barely get to highway speeds.
The NATS issues I believe was caused by a remote start system that the previous owner apparently didn't know about. There was a RF antenna in the windsheild, I unplugged it, cleared the codes, and no NATS pending codes or current codes have reappeared yet.
Hope that's all it was, but I need to fix/remove the Remote start, if you push the clutch in the car acts like its in "ON" key positon, with the keys removed!
Also, if the car is running and the clutch pedal is down, you can remove the keys completely and as long as you hold the clutch down, it stays running.
I have issues with this thing for sure, but hopefully the NATS is no longer a big part of those issues.
Thanks for the helpful responses, I'll update if the issue reappears.
The NATS issues I believe was caused by a remote start system that the previous owner apparently didn't know about. There was a RF antenna in the windsheild, I unplugged it, cleared the codes, and no NATS pending codes or current codes have reappeared yet.
Hope that's all it was, but I need to fix/remove the Remote start, if you push the clutch in the car acts like its in "ON" key positon, with the keys removed!
Also, if the car is running and the clutch pedal is down, you can remove the keys completely and as long as you hold the clutch down, it stays running.
I have issues with this thing for sure, but hopefully the NATS is no longer a big part of those issues.
Thanks for the helpful responses, I'll update if the issue reappears.
07-27-2011, 10:05 PM
#8
Hope that's all it was, but I need to fix/remove the Remote start, if you push the clutch in the car acts like its in "ON" key positon, with the keys removed!
Also, if the car is running and the clutch pedal is down, you can remove the keys completely and as long as you hold the clutch down, it stays running.
Also, if the car is running and the clutch pedal is down, you can remove the keys completely and as long as you hold the clutch down, it stays running.
07-28-2011, 03:26 AM
#9
I can help you out with removing the alarm system ill just need some pictures to guide me with helping you.
remove the knee panel and panels around the streering and the drivers side kick panel.take pictures of all those areas.get some good butt connectors,crimpers or soldering,heat shrink.you probly have anything else that may be needed.
remove the knee panel and panels around the streering and the drivers side kick panel.take pictures of all those areas.get some good butt connectors,crimpers or soldering,heat shrink.you probly have anything else that may be needed.
07-28-2011, 05:14 AM
#10
Tuner, now that you have the car (and a whole bucket of projects related to it), start another Progress Thread that your friends (and lurkers) can subscribe to. Cross reference it with whatever specific issue threads you start.
07-28-2011, 08:52 AM
#11
07-28-2011, 02:45 PM
#15
Ok got the car home, it shut off about 4 times on the way and the driver had to clear the ECU codes, then she would start back up. He said the car had NO power though the whole way, could barely get to highway speeds.
The NATS issues I believe was caused by a remote start system that the previous owner apparently didn't know about. There was a RF antenna in the windsheild, I unplugged it, cleared the codes, and no NATS pending codes or current codes have reappeared yet.
Hope that's all it was, but I need to fix/remove the Remote start, if you push the clutch in the car acts like its in "ON" key positon, with the keys removed!
Also, if the car is running and the clutch pedal is down, you can remove the keys completely and as long as you hold the clutch down, it stays running.
I have issues with this thing for sure, but hopefully the NATS is no longer a big part of those issues.
Thanks for the helpful responses, I'll update if the issue reappears.
The NATS issues I believe was caused by a remote start system that the previous owner apparently didn't know about. There was a RF antenna in the windsheild, I unplugged it, cleared the codes, and no NATS pending codes or current codes have reappeared yet.
Hope that's all it was, but I need to fix/remove the Remote start, if you push the clutch in the car acts like its in "ON" key positon, with the keys removed!
Also, if the car is running and the clutch pedal is down, you can remove the keys completely and as long as you hold the clutch down, it stays running.
I have issues with this thing for sure, but hopefully the NATS is no longer a big part of those issues.
Thanks for the helpful responses, I'll update if the issue reappears.
https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=3bbda...50AE8660%21106
Last edited by cjandura; 07-28-2011 at 02:53 PM. Reason: Added some wiring info.
07-28-2011, 07:52 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
Yup 
Thanks very much for your help. I may call on you if necessary. I'm not driving the car it's just sitting for now while I find time to start getting into it. I have a buddy that used to do car stereo and remote start installs for a living he said he'll come by to check it out in a few weeks.
Introduction thread coming, and progress thread coming. I've already removed the decals and done some minor Diagnostics, etc.
Ever since disconnecting the Antenna the NATS has not returned. I also did the key relearn procedure. I am not driving the car so I can't say for sure if the issue has been completely resolved, but I'm fairly confident that it's not anything major.
Yes, this is a very good point. I love my 5th, and I know this 5.5 can never look as good as my 5th (paint colour and IMO disclaimer) either. But I also know that my 5th gen 3.0 Automatic will never be the car I want it to be performance wise, or entertaining to drive. I really miss a standard car, and the 3.5 is just exhilerating. To be able to accomplish 220-240 BHP with very little investment into the engine is astounding, and something I would not acheive on my car. I've reached the extent of reasonable modding on my 5th already, because it makes no sense to try and make it faster, it's never going to be fast. Much more cost effective and time-management friendly to get a 5.5 6MT and then mod that.
Although I haven't decided what I'm doing with either car yet, I have issues with this 2003, it's running like total crap, and has a top end tick that bothers me. Also valve cover leaks appear to be getting bad.
I am doing compression tests and spark plug inspection before anything else, the I'll get into sensor cleaning and MAF relearn (need to find the DIY for that on here still). We will see if I can make it a solid reliable car before I make any decisions.
^Oh, and this
I can help you out with removing the alarm system ill just need some pictures to guide me with helping you.
remove the knee panel and panels around the streering and the drivers side kick panel.take pictures of all those areas.get some good butt connectors,crimpers or soldering,heat shrink.you probly have anything else that may be needed.
remove the knee panel and panels around the streering and the drivers side kick panel.take pictures of all those areas.get some good butt connectors,crimpers or soldering,heat shrink.you probly have anything else that may be needed.
Those issues you are having are from a remote start that was installed incorrectly!IT IS VERY DANGEROUS AT THIS POINT..some one used the back door method to bypass the built in safty feature needed for remote starting a manual car.please do not drive this car until the system is repaired or removed this bypass method can cause the car to shut off and the steering wheel to lock at high speed.Check these links i had uploaded all of the alarm wiring guides for 4th and 5th gens.
https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=3bbda...50AE8660%21106
https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=3bbda...50AE8660%21106
Introduction thread coming, and progress thread coming. I've already removed the decals and done some minor Diagnostics, etc.
Ever since disconnecting the Antenna the NATS has not returned. I also did the key relearn procedure. I am not driving the car so I can't say for sure if the issue has been completely resolved, but I'm fairly confident that it's not anything major.
Yes, this is a very good point. I love my 5th, and I know this 5.5 can never look as good as my 5th (paint colour and IMO disclaimer) either. But I also know that my 5th gen 3.0 Automatic will never be the car I want it to be performance wise, or entertaining to drive. I really miss a standard car, and the 3.5 is just exhilerating. To be able to accomplish 220-240 BHP with very little investment into the engine is astounding, and something I would not acheive on my car. I've reached the extent of reasonable modding on my 5th already, because it makes no sense to try and make it faster, it's never going to be fast. Much more cost effective and time-management friendly to get a 5.5 6MT and then mod that.
Although I haven't decided what I'm doing with either car yet, I have issues with this 2003, it's running like total crap, and has a top end tick that bothers me. Also valve cover leaks appear to be getting bad.
I am doing compression tests and spark plug inspection before anything else, the I'll get into sensor cleaning and MAF relearn (need to find the DIY for that on here still). We will see if I can make it a solid reliable car before I make any decisions.
07-29-2011, 06:19 AM
#22
07-29-2011, 10:18 AM
#23
More power to ya Tuner, im envious.
Where does he live? PM me if your down to jack.
07-29-2011, 08:14 PM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
Dammit P1614 popped back up (NATS CODE). I'm pretty sure this is the other code I couldn't identify initially. The P1610 is not currently evident or pending.
Hopefully removing the remote start system fixes this issue fr me.
Hopefully removing the remote start system fixes this issue fr me.
07-29-2011, 08:40 PM
#25
+1 on that.
Wish I could help you, man. Best of luck. Knowing your pit bull like dedication to you car(s), I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of the issue eventually.
07-30-2011, 07:46 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
Our markets are different anyways, so's our dollar, so it doesn't really matter. I got it quite cheap, but there are some serious issues, so all in all not that cheap after I'm done.
Anyways, relevant to my thread, I disconnected the hacked in module for the Antitheft, and found burnt exposed power wires, NOT good.
I havent pulled the whole thing yet but I will eventually, for now, I've got the engine torn apart and think I have 2 cylinders that need rings, and a valve cover seal fr the spark plug tube on #5.
Anyways, relevant to my thread, I disconnected the hacked in module for the Antitheft, and found burnt exposed power wires, NOT good.
I havent pulled the whole thing yet but I will eventually, for now, I've got the engine torn apart and think I have 2 cylinders that need rings, and a valve cover seal fr the spark plug tube on #5.
07-30-2011, 08:10 PM
#28
Which one is #5? Isn't that rear-middle? Tuner, that's a known fail on the 5.5. I believe Nissan has since corrected the design in their parts supply line, but for literally 1/3 the replacement cost, you can just buy the 2004 covers. That's a pretty common fix.
It reads like you've got larger issues, but when you put things together again, get a 6.0 gen valve cover for the rear.
It reads like you've got larger issues, but when you put things together again, get a 6.0 gen valve cover for the rear.
Last edited by Rochester; 07-30-2011 at 08:12 PM.
07-30-2011, 09:30 PM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
Which one is #5? Isn't that rear-middle? Tuner, that's a known fail on the 5.5. I believe Nissan has since corrected the design in their parts supply line, but for literally 1/3 the replacement cost, you can just buy the 2004 covers. That's a pretty common fix.
It reads like you've got larger issues, but when you put things together again, get a 6.0 gen valve cover for the rear.
It reads like you've got larger issues, but when you put things together again, get a 6.0 gen valve cover for the rear.
I recall hearing something about getting the 6th gen cover but didn't know why.
Oh, and it's the driver side rear (closest to TB)
FIREWALL
1<>3<>5
2<>4<>6
RADIATOR
07-31-2011, 05:14 AM
#30
Doh! 
Glad I could help, in my own minimalist and befuddled way.
Another 6.0 gen "fix" is to use the 2004 pivot arm for the 6MT. The 5.5 gen design has been known to snap, but usually only by people who take their Maxima to the strip. I think it only costs like $15 or thereabouts. And the VC is like $45.
Can't think of anything else off the top of my head, except for maybe the 6.0 gen brakes as a BBK.
Glad I could help, in my own minimalist and befuddled way.Another 6.0 gen "fix" is to use the 2004 pivot arm for the 6MT. The 5.5 gen design has been known to snap, but usually only by people who take their Maxima to the strip. I think it only costs like $15 or thereabouts. And the VC is like $45.
Can't think of anything else off the top of my head, except for maybe the 6.0 gen brakes as a BBK.
Last edited by Rochester; 07-31-2011 at 05:31 AM.
07-31-2011, 09:08 AM
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,548
Doh! Glad I could help, in my own minimalist and befuddled way.
Another 6.0 gen "fix" is to use the 2004 pivot arm for the 6MT. The 5.5 gen design has been known to snap, but usually only by people who take their Maxima to the strip. I think it only costs like $15 or thereabouts. And the VC is like $45.
Can't think of anything else off the top of my head, except for maybe the 6.0 gen brakes as a BBK.
Glad I could help, in my own minimalist and befuddled way.Another 6.0 gen "fix" is to use the 2004 pivot arm for the 6MT. The 5.5 gen design has been known to snap, but usually only by people who take their Maxima to the strip. I think it only costs like $15 or thereabouts. And the VC is like $45.
Can't think of anything else off the top of my head, except for maybe the 6.0 gen brakes as a BBK.
I have a friend who can get stuff from the wreckers for good deals so it's useful to know everything I may want off a 6th gen, thanks!
07-31-2011, 09:41 AM
#32
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM
