Got bad coils? I tested and only replaced 2. How to w/ Pics
01-20-2006, 03:15 PM
#1
Got bad coils? I tested and only replaced 2. How to w/ Pics
I have been getting a few PMs on this from time to time, but most questions have been answered somewhere in this thread, take some time and read because there is alot of good info in here from people other than me.
I swapped only two coils in Jan of 2006 and through Oct 2007 have not had a single problem with any additional coils. If you can isolate the bad coil, why replace all 6?
Sooooooo, I had the frigging SES, TCS, SLIP lights which any 5th gen owner should now know is code P1320, which means, drum roll please, Bad Ignition Coil. I was also luckily enough not just to have code once, but twice and also to have a code P0300, which is multiple misfires. I was able to get the codes pulled for free from my Autozone and so I started my quest to fix my car.
Some background info: The original coils from Nissan are garbage and Nissan knows this, yet they have chosen to do nothing about it. They did however update the coils with "newer" ones with a gray dot, that were supposed to be awesome. Well I open my hood, take off the cover and guess what, all my coils have gray dots. So I guess that blows that idea up. I bought my car in 2003 with 80k in miles from Woodfield Nissan in Illinois. So at some point in time they had already been replaced.
Ok, back to my test, I donated to Maxima.org so I could search and spent a night reading about just bad coils. The general consensus is that you should replace all 6 when one goes bad. The rough best price was about $300 for all six. The only problem is that I have this in my life right now that causes me to be short on money.
So after reading, I found a few things that will help in changing just the bad coils as I have done. I can not take credit for this info as pretty much all of it has been tried before, I am just trying to make it as easy as possible for everyone else.
Step #1 - Autozone
You may be lucky enough to have an additional code stored in your cars computer. If you have code P1320 with any P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 or P0306, that is a misfire on specific cylinder. You now know which one is bad just replace that one, see the pics below on how to remove the coil.
Step 2 - Unplug coil one at a time
Remove your cover by taking the four bolts off your cover, you will need a 4mm allen wrench.
This test will only work if your engine is running really bad idle. If your SES/TCS/SLIP only come on when your engine is under load this test will not work, skip to step 3. My engine was running really rough even at idle, so I started to unplug the coils on at a time. Just squeeze the clip and pull, it will come off.
The first one I tried cylinder #2, when unplugged, made no difference at all in how the engine ran. SO I instantly knew that one was bad. If your coil is good you engine will bog down and almost stall, as you are basically removing a running cylinder. Do this one at a time until you find the one, that when removed, your engine does not seem to run any rougher.
Step 3 - Testing the resistance
You will need a multimeter to do this. I have had mine for a while and it worked fine for this. Its nothing big, and you can pick mine up at Sears for only $19.99.
Remove all your coils. This is for 5th gen if you have a 5.5 here is a great write up for you to get to your rear coils from Greg5.5 Gen Write Up
The front three coils are right there held in by one 10mm bolt each. Unplug the clip, remove the bolt and pull. The coil will come right out.
I swapped only two coils in Jan of 2006 and through Oct 2007 have not had a single problem with any additional coils. If you can isolate the bad coil, why replace all 6?
Sooooooo, I had the frigging SES, TCS, SLIP lights which any 5th gen owner should now know is code P1320, which means, drum roll please, Bad Ignition Coil. I was also luckily enough not just to have code once, but twice and also to have a code P0300, which is multiple misfires. I was able to get the codes pulled for free from my Autozone and so I started my quest to fix my car.
Some background info: The original coils from Nissan are garbage and Nissan knows this, yet they have chosen to do nothing about it. They did however update the coils with "newer" ones with a gray dot, that were supposed to be awesome. Well I open my hood, take off the cover and guess what, all my coils have gray dots. So I guess that blows that idea up. I bought my car in 2003 with 80k in miles from Woodfield Nissan in Illinois. So at some point in time they had already been replaced.
Ok, back to my test, I donated to Maxima.org so I could search and spent a night reading about just bad coils. The general consensus is that you should replace all 6 when one goes bad. The rough best price was about $300 for all six. The only problem is that I have this in my life right now that causes me to be short on money.
So after reading, I found a few things that will help in changing just the bad coils as I have done. I can not take credit for this info as pretty much all of it has been tried before, I am just trying to make it as easy as possible for everyone else.
Step #1 - Autozone
You may be lucky enough to have an additional code stored in your cars computer. If you have code P1320 with any P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 or P0306, that is a misfire on specific cylinder. You now know which one is bad just replace that one, see the pics below on how to remove the coil.
Step 2 - Unplug coil one at a time
Remove your cover by taking the four bolts off your cover, you will need a 4mm allen wrench.
This test will only work if your engine is running really bad idle. If your SES/TCS/SLIP only come on when your engine is under load this test will not work, skip to step 3. My engine was running really rough even at idle, so I started to unplug the coils on at a time. Just squeeze the clip and pull, it will come off.
The first one I tried cylinder #2, when unplugged, made no difference at all in how the engine ran. SO I instantly knew that one was bad. If your coil is good you engine will bog down and almost stall, as you are basically removing a running cylinder. Do this one at a time until you find the one, that when removed, your engine does not seem to run any rougher.
Step 3 - Testing the resistance
You will need a multimeter to do this. I have had mine for a while and it worked fine for this. Its nothing big, and you can pick mine up at Sears for only $19.99.
Remove all your coils. This is for 5th gen if you have a 5.5 here is a great write up for you to get to your rear coils from Greg5.5 Gen Write Up
The front three coils are right there held in by one 10mm bolt each. Unplug the clip, remove the bolt and pull. The coil will come right out.
Last edited by bigfatty; 10-30-2007 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Just updating
01-20-2006, 03:16 PM
#2
The rears are little more difficult to get to, but the are doable. Some people remove this bracket but I didn't have to, I just slipped the cables out of the bracket and I got the coils out. If you are worried about dropping the screws an easy way to avoid this is to put two thin strips of electrical tape on your socket like this. It will all the bolt on the socket and it wont fall out. This is extremely useful for putting the bolts back on.
When you are done you will have 3 fronts and 3 rears. I labeled the pin #s I used to test them in the pics.
Your red Red probe is positive and Black one is negative. Set your meter to 20k on the ohm setting and start testing and make sure you write your results down.
My result were this. I already knew I had one bad coil, the one was making my engine run rough. The second one would only fail under a load, so that was the culprit I was looking for. The coil I knew was bad, is labeled bad, the two new coils I had bought were labeled as new.
I was looking for a reading from a coil that was different than the two good ones. If you look #4 had an infinite resistance reading (i) for +1,-2 and +1,-3, no other coil had that so I found the other bad coil! Also the weird thing was that the coil I knew was bad before had almost the exact same reading as the good ones other than the +2,-3 test (6.82) which is higher than any other coil. I replaced the one I knew was bad and #4 and have not had any problems since.
Where to buy: There many places to get the coils, but the Nissan dealership is waaaay too much. DaveB on the boards can hook you up for about $55 each roughly but you have to wait for shipping. What I did is if you have an O'Reilly's in you area they sell the coils for $51.99, but you have to have them shipped and wait the week again. O'Reilly Auto Front Part #UF348, Rear Part #UF363. AutoZoneAlso carries thecoils, Front Part #C1267 Rear Part #C1266 and I could pick them up tomorrow but they were $69.99. I told auto zone they O’Reilly’s has them $51.99 and they went ahead and price matched them. Perfect, 2 coils $51.99 each and I get them tomorrow.
Conclusions
I was able to replace only the bad coils and did not have to replace all and pay extra money. These test are not 100% proof positive but if followed, will give you a pretty good shot at replacing only the one you have to. If any body out has a for sure bad coil or has a brand new, gray dot coil and would like to put an ohm meter on it, please do. I would like to have your results and will make a spreadsheet to compare the results to see if we could figure out a 100% positive test. Just send them PM or email to me.
I hope this makes all us 5th gen owner’s life a little easier
Fat
When you are done you will have 3 fronts and 3 rears. I labeled the pin #s I used to test them in the pics.
Your red Red probe is positive and Black one is negative. Set your meter to 20k on the ohm setting and start testing and make sure you write your results down.
My result were this. I already knew I had one bad coil, the one was making my engine run rough. The second one would only fail under a load, so that was the culprit I was looking for. The coil I knew was bad, is labeled bad, the two new coils I had bought were labeled as new.
I was looking for a reading from a coil that was different than the two good ones. If you look #4 had an infinite resistance reading (i) for +1,-2 and +1,-3, no other coil had that so I found the other bad coil! Also the weird thing was that the coil I knew was bad before had almost the exact same reading as the good ones other than the +2,-3 test (6.82) which is higher than any other coil. I replaced the one I knew was bad and #4 and have not had any problems since.
Where to buy: There many places to get the coils, but the Nissan dealership is waaaay too much. DaveB on the boards can hook you up for about $55 each roughly but you have to wait for shipping. What I did is if you have an O'Reilly's in you area they sell the coils for $51.99, but you have to have them shipped and wait the week again. O'Reilly Auto Front Part #UF348, Rear Part #UF363. AutoZoneAlso carries thecoils, Front Part #C1267 Rear Part #C1266 and I could pick them up tomorrow but they were $69.99. I told auto zone they O’Reilly’s has them $51.99 and they went ahead and price matched them. Perfect, 2 coils $51.99 each and I get them tomorrow.
Conclusions
I was able to replace only the bad coils and did not have to replace all and pay extra money. These test are not 100% proof positive but if followed, will give you a pretty good shot at replacing only the one you have to. If any body out has a for sure bad coil or has a brand new, gray dot coil and would like to put an ohm meter on it, please do. I would like to have your results and will make a spreadsheet to compare the results to see if we could figure out a 100% positive test. Just send them PM or email to me.
I hope this makes all us 5th gen owner’s life a little easier
Fat
01-21-2006, 12:42 PM
#6
Great info. Let me restate (as you have found yourself), that the resistance test does not always provide "revealing results" - case in point, your coil labelled "Bad" doesn't differ in any significant way from those labeled "Good". (Other than the 6.8 vs. 6.2 measurement - and again, that difference is nominal enough that it may or may not indicate a true problem.
Good work in any case - it's a little disconcerting to see these grey-dot coils start failing too...
Good work in any case - it's a little disconcerting to see these grey-dot coils start failing too...
01-21-2006, 06:31 PM
#7
Just wanted to say....Excellent write up..Probably the most thorough and well written I've ever seen...
I have quite a few engine performance books. "Computerized engine controls" "Automotive Engine performance", Etc....and you rerely see anything this descriptive.. Even on Alldata..
I have quite a few engine performance books. "Computerized engine controls" "Automotive Engine performance", Etc....and you rerely see anything this descriptive.. Even on Alldata..
01-21-2006, 08:00 PM
#8
Ok now heres a question (nice writeup by the way, i almost cant wait for my coils to fail) I work at autozone and am wondering if the coils we have are the new grey dot design or the old design that nissan had that failed all the time. I know it sounds silly but its an express order part and you have to pay for it to order, so i cant just compare them to something else. Also i dont get my discount on vendor parts, so the part # and price he gave is correct- i figured the best bet would be Dave B, since i have to wait for shipping either way and his are cheaper.
01-21-2006, 08:11 PM
#9
Originally Posted by carsarecool
.. I work at autozone and am wondering if the coils we have are the new grey dot design or the old design that nissan had that failed all the time......
Seeing as how there is a TSB I would be willing to bet they are updated and don't have that problem.......They are also probably from an aftermarket parts supplier that maybe never initailly had the problem in the first place.
I'm not 100% positive though..So someone else could probably jump and tell you for sure..
01-21-2006, 11:50 PM
#10
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
I'm guessing they are OEM quality or better?????
Seeing as how there is a TSB I would be willing to bet they are updated and don't have that problem.......They are also probably from an aftermarket parts supplier that maybe never initailly had the problem in the first place.
I'm not 100% positive though..So someone else could probably jump and tell you for sure..
Seeing as how there is a TSB I would be willing to bet they are updated and don't have that problem.......They are also probably from an aftermarket parts supplier that maybe never initailly had the problem in the first place.
I'm not 100% positive though..So someone else could probably jump and tell you for sure..
Fat
01-22-2006, 12:27 PM
#14
Good stuff...I have a set of old coils downstairs that another org'er sent me (1 good, 5 bad but he didn't know which) and I was going to do the same type of tests on them.....looks like you beat me to it.
01-22-2006, 05:50 PM
#15
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
Does Duralast make Nissan's coils as well??? I'm sure it's in FAQ's but figured you may know and would be good information to add to this post.
Originally Posted by irish44j
Good stuff...I have a set of old coils downstairs that another org'er sent me (1 good, 5 bad but he didn't know which) and I was going to do the same type of tests on them.....looks like you beat me to it.
Fat
01-27-2006, 07:01 AM
#18
100% chingon
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,003
Testing the resistance of coils with a DMM is really a waste of time. The only meaningful reading you'll get is on the low-resistance primary winding and it is not the primary that fails.
Failure in these coils is on the HT (secondary) side and it's caused by the insulation breaking down. The only way to measure the insulation resistance is by using an insulation test meter such as a Comark or (old fashioned) Megger. These devices apply 25KV to the coil secondary and give a reading of the insulation resistance in Megohms.
Even then there are two modes of failure, insulation breakdown to earth - which the IT meter can test - and shorted turns (turn to turn) which is internal to the coil and can't be tested without an oscilloscope.
Overall, the best bet for testing coils is to use a scope and measure the amplitude of the spark waveform and view its duration compared with the others. An ordinary electronics workshop scope will do, provided you use a high-voltage divider probe on the input.
Failure in these coils is on the HT (secondary) side and it's caused by the insulation breaking down. The only way to measure the insulation resistance is by using an insulation test meter such as a Comark or (old fashioned) Megger. These devices apply 25KV to the coil secondary and give a reading of the insulation resistance in Megohms.
Even then there are two modes of failure, insulation breakdown to earth - which the IT meter can test - and shorted turns (turn to turn) which is internal to the coil and can't be tested without an oscilloscope.
Overall, the best bet for testing coils is to use a scope and measure the amplitude of the spark waveform and view its duration compared with the others. An ordinary electronics workshop scope will do, provided you use a high-voltage divider probe on the input.
01-27-2006, 07:15 AM
#19
Originally Posted by clive
Testing the resistance of coils with a DMM is really a waste of time. The only meaningful reading you'll get is on the low-resistance primary winding and it is not the primary that fails.
Failure in these coils is on the HT (secondary) side and it's caused by the insulation breaking down. The only way to measure the insulation resistance is by using an insulation test meter such as a Comark or (old fashioned) Megger. These devices apply 25KV to the coil secondary and give a reading of the insulation resistance in Megohms.
Even then there are two modes of failure, insulation breakdown to earth - which the IT meter can test - and shorted turns (turn to turn) which is internal to the coil and can't be tested without an oscilloscope.
Overall, the best bet for testing coils is to use a scope and measure the amplitude of the spark waveform and view its duration compared with the others. An ordinary electronics workshop scope will do, provided you use a high-voltage divider probe on the input.
Failure in these coils is on the HT (secondary) side and it's caused by the insulation breaking down. The only way to measure the insulation resistance is by using an insulation test meter such as a Comark or (old fashioned) Megger. These devices apply 25KV to the coil secondary and give a reading of the insulation resistance in Megohms.
Even then there are two modes of failure, insulation breakdown to earth - which the IT meter can test - and shorted turns (turn to turn) which is internal to the coil and can't be tested without an oscilloscope.
Overall, the best bet for testing coils is to use a scope and measure the amplitude of the spark waveform and view its duration compared with the others. An ordinary electronics workshop scope will do, provided you use a high-voltage divider probe on the input.
02-12-2006, 10:43 AM
#25
I just successfully used this method as well.
I threw an SES P1320 and P0306 - indicating coil 6 failure. Car ran fine except occasional misfires, but gotta fix it!
Had a set of 6 old (non-gray-dot) coils an org'er sent me last year (thanks, whoever it was) - which he said at least 1 was bad, but didn't know which.
My car HAS the gray-dot coils on it already, so I guess they still suck.
Did the multimeter test as indicated above and here are my results:
"----" is an infinite resistance reading, if you didn't figure that much out....
Old coils he sent me:
Front #1 (no dot)
+1-2 1.429
+1-3 9.82
-1+2 1.434
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 9.61
Front #2 (no dot)
+1-2 1.457
+1-3 10.13
-1+2 1.462
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 10.01
Front #3 (no dot)
+1-2 1.501
+1-3 9.85
-1+2 1.506
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 9.75
Rear #1 (no dot)
+1-2 1.460
+1-3 10.50
-1+2 1.463
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 10.47
Rear #2 (no dot)
+1-2 ----
+1-3 ----
-1+2 12.03
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 10.20
THIS COIL IS A BAD ONE
Rear coil #3 (no dot)
+1-2 ----
+1-3 10.36
-1+2 ----
-1+3 ----
-2+3 ----
+2-3 ----
THIS COIL IS A REALLY BAD ONE!
Now, I pulled one of my gray-dot coils that I know is good off the car
Front #1 (cylinder 2) - gray dot - GOOD COIL
+1-2 1.551
+1-3 9.81
-1+2 1.543
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 9.73
Then I pulled the bad coil off the car (cylinder 6), a gray dot coil that I KNOW is bad
+1-2 -----
+1-3 -----
-1+2 -----
-1+3 -----
-2+3 -----
+2-3 0.60
yuck!
I replaced my bad gray-dot coil with the "old" non-gray-dot coil #1 mentioned above, and not surprisingly, no misfires, SES light is off immediately.
Total cost: $0.00
this once again proves that just because one of your coils goes bad, don't throw out all your old non-gray-dot coils -you might need one later.
to Bigfatty for figuring this method out!
I threw an SES P1320 and P0306 - indicating coil 6 failure. Car ran fine except occasional misfires, but gotta fix it!
Had a set of 6 old (non-gray-dot) coils an org'er sent me last year (thanks, whoever it was) - which he said at least 1 was bad, but didn't know which.
My car HAS the gray-dot coils on it already, so I guess they still suck.
Did the multimeter test as indicated above and here are my results:
"----" is an infinite resistance reading, if you didn't figure that much out....
Old coils he sent me:
Front #1 (no dot)
+1-2 1.429
+1-3 9.82
-1+2 1.434
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 9.61
Front #2 (no dot)
+1-2 1.457
+1-3 10.13
-1+2 1.462
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 10.01
Front #3 (no dot)
+1-2 1.501
+1-3 9.85
-1+2 1.506
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 9.75
Rear #1 (no dot)
+1-2 1.460
+1-3 10.50
-1+2 1.463
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 10.47
Rear #2 (no dot)
+1-2 ----
+1-3 ----
-1+2 12.03
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 10.20
THIS COIL IS A BAD ONE
Rear coil #3 (no dot)
+1-2 ----
+1-3 10.36
-1+2 ----
-1+3 ----
-2+3 ----
+2-3 ----
THIS COIL IS A REALLY BAD ONE!
Now, I pulled one of my gray-dot coils that I know is good off the car
Front #1 (cylinder 2) - gray dot - GOOD COIL
+1-2 1.551
+1-3 9.81
-1+2 1.543
-1+3 ---
-2+3 ---
+2-3 9.73
Then I pulled the bad coil off the car (cylinder 6), a gray dot coil that I KNOW is bad
+1-2 -----
+1-3 -----
-1+2 -----
-1+3 -----
-2+3 -----
+2-3 0.60
yuck!
I replaced my bad gray-dot coil with the "old" non-gray-dot coil #1 mentioned above, and not surprisingly, no misfires, SES light is off immediately.
Total cost: $0.00
this once again proves that just because one of your coils goes bad, don't throw out all your old non-gray-dot coils -you might need one later.
to Bigfatty for figuring this method out!
02-15-2006, 02:25 PM
#27
OK, I got some more test results from Irish and I figure I would put them together and match them up with mine and see what we get.
First thanks to Irish for getting some more tests and I am happy to see that the tests are holding up when other people are using them and that it saved you from having to replace all 6. I still think nobody should have to replace all six at once.
I separated the results with good ones on the left and bad ones on the right. I found it very interesting that the no dot coils, the old ones, had much higher resistance than the new updated ones. Maybe that’s one of the reasons of why the old ones are failing at such a high rate.
Also with the exception of one coil, #1, the bad coils had dramatically different results that the good ones. That bad coil, #1, came from my car and was making my car run so bad, that when I unplugged it the car didn’t even change one bit.
So if anyone else has some coils laying around please test them and send them my way. I think there is a pattern starting here, so keep them coming.
Fat
First thanks to Irish for getting some more tests and I am happy to see that the tests are holding up when other people are using them and that it saved you from having to replace all 6. I still think nobody should have to replace all six at once.
I separated the results with good ones on the left and bad ones on the right. I found it very interesting that the no dot coils, the old ones, had much higher resistance than the new updated ones. Maybe that’s one of the reasons of why the old ones are failing at such a high rate.
Also with the exception of one coil, #1, the bad coils had dramatically different results that the good ones. That bad coil, #1, came from my car and was making my car run so bad, that when I unplugged it the car didn’t even change one bit.
So if anyone else has some coils laying around please test them and send them my way. I think there is a pattern starting here, so keep them coming.
Fat
02-15-2006, 08:05 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 485
Fat
Thank you for your write up.
My car has the gray dot coil but number 6 is still bad and car ran real rough.
Got it change and fix now, resetting the SES light and hopefully in the morning all clear.
once again thanks.
Thank you for your write up.
My car has the gray dot coil but number 6 is still bad and car ran real rough.
Got it change and fix now, resetting the SES light and hopefully in the morning all clear.
once again thanks.
02-16-2006, 06:23 PM
#31
Originally Posted by trigger005
doesnt seem to work for me... I only get response form (+1, -2) and (-1, +2) from all 6 coils. all the rest read infinite.
Fat
02-17-2006, 09:48 AM
#32
Originally Posted by bigfatty
Hmmm I guess I will start by asking that your meter is set to 20k on resistance or Ohms? If it is did you get code p1320 and if you did, did you get more than one? Are your coils the new, gray dot, ones or are they the old ones, no gray dots? Finally what are getting for readings on your six coils?
Fat
Fat
Resistance is around 1.57 for all of them. I also tried 2K resistance and got some readings, but it was consistent through all 6 coils. I thought it might be because they were not grey-dotted but Irish posted that he got readings to work off of them...
Then I thought... maybe they're all bad and I got owned. But that doesnt seem to be consistent with your guys' readings for bad coils. idunno
02-25-2006, 01:49 PM
#34
Hmm... i checked at the nissan dealer my car was originally bought at and he said theyve never been done, although they look pretty clean and new (i guess they wouldnt be cracked and burnt though haha) are they probly originals? Or is that unheard of in a 5th gen with 79k miles on it
02-25-2006, 08:01 PM
#35
Originally Posted by carsarecool
Hmm... i checked at the nissan dealer my car was originally bought at and he said theyve never been done, although they look pretty clean and new (i guess they wouldnt be cracked and burnt though haha) are they probly originals? Or is that unheard of in a 5th gen with 79k miles on it
02-28-2006, 09:08 PM
#38
bigfat, I need a little more in depth testing info from you. On your chart you have -2,+3 and +2,-3...
When doing this test are you simply swapping the two test leads backwards??
Since your only checking continuity I don't really understand how the results would differ with the leads reversed.
Maybe I'm mis understanding part of the testing procedure??
I'm getting ready to test mine in the next week or so and have scope readings to compare to as well. Assuming the resistance readings differ accordingly with the scope readings it shoud give us pretty definitive evidence that the resistance tests holds value.
Once I get everything completed I will add my results to this thread.
When doing this test are you simply swapping the two test leads backwards??
Since your only checking continuity I don't really understand how the results would differ with the leads reversed.
Maybe I'm mis understanding part of the testing procedure??I'm getting ready to test mine in the next week or so and have scope readings to compare to as well. Assuming the resistance readings differ accordingly with the scope readings it shoud give us pretty definitive evidence that the resistance tests holds value.
Once I get everything completed I will add my results to this thread.
03-01-2006, 04:32 AM
#40
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
bigfat, I need a little more in depth testing info from you. On your chart you have -2,+3 and +2,-3...
When doing this test are you simply swapping the two test leads backwards??
Since your only checking continuity I don't really understand how the results would differ with the leads reversed. Maybe I'm mis understanding part of the testing procedure??
I'm getting ready to test mine in the next week or so and have scope readings to compare to as well. Assuming the resistance readings differ accordingly with the scope readings it shoud give us pretty definitive evidence that the resistance tests holds value.
Once I get everything completed I will add my results to this thread.
When doing this test are you simply swapping the two test leads backwards??
Since your only checking continuity I don't really understand how the results would differ with the leads reversed.
Maybe I'm mis understanding part of the testing procedure??I'm getting ready to test mine in the next week or so and have scope readings to compare to as well. Assuming the resistance readings differ accordingly with the scope readings it shoud give us pretty definitive evidence that the resistance tests holds value.
Once I get everything completed I will add my results to this thread.
Fat
