My 7th gen's first oil change (Pics, DIY)
#1
My 7th gen's first oil change (Pics, DIY)
Thought I'd post some pics of my 2012's first oil change (4250 miles), done just how I like it - at home in my garage. I looked around here previously and couldn't find any actual photos of a DIY oil change on a 7th gen... lots of discussion, but zero actual pics. So here they are.
Note that this is not a true step-by-step "how to change oil on a 7th gen". If you have never changed oil before you'll need more instruction than this, but if you've changed oil before on a different vehicle, this should give you enough of an idea of what you're looking at tackling it on your 7th gen.
Jacking point that I used. I wasn't completely happy with this since the plastic cover will probably get beat up over time ... if you have a better suggestion let me know.
Jacked up with safety stands underneath.
Key items underneath. Beer too (for afterwards)
This is a photo of the fastener that holds the oil filter / wheel well splash cover on. You'll need to take this off to get at the oil filter.
Splash cover fastener removed.
Photo of the oil filter location. You have to pull back the splash cover to access it.
Drain plug photo
Oil draining out
New oil filter. I like WIX.
Oil filter wrench (you'll need this if you're taking off the factory original filter - its on tight).
after I cracked the old filter loose with the wrench, this is me loosening the oil filter by hand (see my hand on left) - Oil will drip all over when loosening the old filter. I put plastic wrap over the frame member to help contain some of the mess. Should have probably used a bigger piece of plastic wrap but oh well it worked pretty good.
The factory original filter I pulled off the car (4250 miles)
One of my favorite ways to make an oil funnel - cut a 20oz soda bottle in half. I like this because you can clean the funnel in your kitchen sink before you use it (which I'd rather not do with a re-usable funnel) and it's disposable, no need to keep an oily funnel laying around. EDIT:normally you'd want to take the plastic ring off from the neck of the bottle, but in this case it was on extremely tight so I left it.
The oil I used (4.5 quarts). Regular old 5W-30 valvoline conventional. I realize the choice of oil is heavily debatable. I choose to spend my money on the filter (WIX) instead of synthetic oil. Since I change my oil+filter every 5000 miles I don't think synthetic is really necessary. But to each their own.
Note that this is not a true step-by-step "how to change oil on a 7th gen". If you have never changed oil before you'll need more instruction than this, but if you've changed oil before on a different vehicle, this should give you enough of an idea of what you're looking at tackling it on your 7th gen.
Jacking point that I used. I wasn't completely happy with this since the plastic cover will probably get beat up over time ... if you have a better suggestion let me know.
Jacked up with safety stands underneath.
Key items underneath. Beer too (for afterwards)
This is a photo of the fastener that holds the oil filter / wheel well splash cover on. You'll need to take this off to get at the oil filter.
Splash cover fastener removed.
Photo of the oil filter location. You have to pull back the splash cover to access it.
Drain plug photo
Oil draining out
New oil filter. I like WIX.
Oil filter wrench (you'll need this if you're taking off the factory original filter - its on tight).
after I cracked the old filter loose with the wrench, this is me loosening the oil filter by hand (see my hand on left) - Oil will drip all over when loosening the old filter. I put plastic wrap over the frame member to help contain some of the mess. Should have probably used a bigger piece of plastic wrap but oh well it worked pretty good.
The factory original filter I pulled off the car (4250 miles)
One of my favorite ways to make an oil funnel - cut a 20oz soda bottle in half. I like this because you can clean the funnel in your kitchen sink before you use it (which I'd rather not do with a re-usable funnel) and it's disposable, no need to keep an oily funnel laying around. EDIT:normally you'd want to take the plastic ring off from the neck of the bottle, but in this case it was on extremely tight so I left it.
The oil I used (4.5 quarts). Regular old 5W-30 valvoline conventional. I realize the choice of oil is heavily debatable. I choose to spend my money on the filter (WIX) instead of synthetic oil. Since I change my oil+filter every 5000 miles I don't think synthetic is really necessary. But to each their own.
Last edited by ttt3; 05-03-2012 at 10:30 PM.
#3
Awesome pics and write up. Thanks! I usually just take mine in to the local dealer to do mine, but not on my other vehicles. My wife's Murano has a similar cover and oil filter location so when you loosen it the oil gets all over the frame. Big thumbs up
#6
FYI, you can also vacuum extract the oil, but since the oil filter is only accessable from the bottom then its doesnt make sense to vacuum extract. I used to VA it on the benz since the filters are located at the top..
But great job on summary! Thats pretty much to it
But great job on summary! Thats pretty much to it
#7
Nice write up. I found that by shoving an old oil funnel underneath the oil filter and then removing the filter kept the oil from running all over the frame and directed it into the oil catch pan.
I use 4 7/8 quarts of oil for my '09, have they reduced the oil capacity in the newer models?
I use 4 7/8 quarts of oil for my '09, have they reduced the oil capacity in the newer models?
#11
Nice write up and thanks for sharing, as for the 4.5 quarts, I usually pour all 5 in but I use the longer filter, nissan only has 2 filter sizes for all the Nissan/Infiniti vehicles, short and tall, Mobil1 sells them as the M108 and M110 to look for comparison, I use the slightly longer M110.
As far as where to jack, I jack under the drivers door on the body crease, line or what would be a body rail the weight bearing part and then I stick a random horse in under the car, I leave the car sitting on the jack and put the horse somewhat in a good spot to stop the car if the jack gives out
As far as where to jack, I jack under the drivers door on the body crease, line or what would be a body rail the weight bearing part and then I stick a random horse in under the car, I leave the car sitting on the jack and put the horse somewhat in a good spot to stop the car if the jack gives out
#12
Thanks, all. Glad this was helpful.
Agreed in general, but this particular soda bottle's plastic ring was on really tight, could barely even spin it and couldnt pull it off with fingers with any amount of effort, so I left it on.
Agreed in general, but this particular soda bottle's plastic ring was on really tight, could barely even spin it and couldnt pull it off with fingers with any amount of effort, so I left it on.
#18
I need to upgrade my ramps. My 2007 Hyundai Sonata with 215/55X17 tires was just as wide as the ramps. My Maxima with 245/40X19 is going to make me nervous...so I am going to get their widest ramps on the market...I think they are like 2 inches wider than the ones I have now.
Also, I've never changed the oil in my car while under warranty. Is there something I need to do with regards to Nissan? Has anyone ever received flack about changing his own oil?
Also, I've never changed the oil in my car while under warranty. Is there something I need to do with regards to Nissan? Has anyone ever received flack about changing his own oil?
#20
I like the idea of the wrap for keeping oil off the frame. I will use this on my wifes truck. It has the oil filter on top of the front crossmember and oil always runs everywhere. Never dawned on me to use something like that. I was thinking about a filter relocation kit on it.
#22
oil change question
hi,
i will post my question in this thread since it pertains to changing oil I would like to know if you have to remove the front bottom "valance" to do the oil change or if it can stay installed?
thanks for any assistance
i will post my question in this thread since it pertains to changing oil I would like to know if you have to remove the front bottom "valance" to do the oil change or if it can stay installed?
thanks for any assistance
#24
You do NOT have to remove any valences, the front wheel, OR the "inner plastic fender panel" when changing the oil! All you have to do is remove the single fastener that I showed in the photos and you can move the "inner plastic fender panel aside to get at the oil filter.
#26
Never jack the car up from the front as this is weak and the car should always be jacked up for. The sides where it is strong you could bend the subframe . Always jack from the side that the drain plug is not on so that the oil will flow out from the other side almost fully ......
#28
WOW!!! great to see all the responses. thank you for the additional info. I am still debating on trying myself or just let the dealer do it. the car is new to me (3 wks) & just passed the 36k mi this past weekend. I am no stranger to oil changes, but I am not sure on this since it still is kinda "new". it sounds as though if I decide to do it from now on that I should invest in some ramps....
thanks again for the responses.... very helpful
thanks again for the responses.... very helpful
#29
WOW!!! great to see all the responses. thank you for the additional info. I am still debating on trying myself or just let the dealer do it. the car is new to me (3 wks) & just passed the 36k mi this past weekend. I am no stranger to oil changes, but I am not sure on this since it still is kinda "new". it sounds as though if I decide to do it from now on that I should invest in some ramps....
thanks again for the responses.... very helpful
thanks again for the responses.... very helpful
#30
thanks again for the responses. i just wanted to check & make sure that i know the right amount to use which i believe is 5qts with "long" filter & 4.5 qts with the "short filter?? also i wanted to know how you "reset" or "clear" the maintainance notice in the dash panel??
thanks!!
thanks!!
#31
thanks again for the responses. i just wanted to check & make sure that i know the right amount to use which i believe is 5qts with "long" filter & 4.5 qts with the "short filter?? also i wanted to know how you "reset" or "clear" the maintainance notice in the dash panel??
thanks!!
thanks!!
#34
The strap is part of the splash shield pn 64838-9n00a (30-40 bucks)
The button or fender retainer is about 10 for 3 bucks.
#35
#36
I'm talking about the strap that attaches to the oil pan. I guess I'll try to repair it if I can. TY
Last edited by manilakid3; 02-02-2016 at 11:42 AM.
#38
#39
There's no point in me using synthetic oil. I change all the cars I maintain every 3k miles with a new filter. Thanks for your input.
#40
Most people don't even know why they are using synthetic oil, I honestly think people do it because it's the "cool" thing to say and do. As long it's pretty much not cooking oil you are using I say skip the SYN...
Since i've owned my 2011 I've taken it to my local Dealership and never paid more than $20 for an oil change.. Granted, I can only hope they are not using a grade just above cooking oil in my motor. BTW I do this because my car is under a CPO and I have to show proof of up-keep while it's under the CPO. I just got a $25 off any serve from them so that means I am about to get my transmission oil done too..
Since i've owned my 2011 I've taken it to my local Dealership and never paid more than $20 for an oil change.. Granted, I can only hope they are not using a grade just above cooking oil in my motor. BTW I do this because my car is under a CPO and I have to show proof of up-keep while it's under the CPO. I just got a $25 off any serve from them so that means I am about to get my transmission oil done too..