Code p0011
#1
Code p0011
Was driving to work this morning and the ses light came on out of nowhere, so I checked it with obd2 when I got to work. Came up with P0011 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
Already called the dealer and am going to bring it in when I get out of work, I read here that the code is associated with dirty oil or whatever. I haven't got a chance to check the oil because I'm out on the road with my work truck. Anyways I made a booboo by clearing the ses but the code is still stored. Will the dealership even look into this problem without the ses light on?
Also I'm due for an oil change anyway so it won't be a waste trip, thanks for any input
Already called the dealer and am going to bring it in when I get out of work, I read here that the code is associated with dirty oil or whatever. I haven't got a chance to check the oil because I'm out on the road with my work truck. Anyways I made a booboo by clearing the ses but the code is still stored. Will the dealership even look into this problem without the ses light on?
Also I'm due for an oil change anyway so it won't be a waste trip, thanks for any input
Last edited by Tommy6905; 05-10-2014 at 06:59 AM.
#3
That's fine with me, if that takes care of the issue. Like I said, even if there is one. 2 things, anyone ever have this code pop up and did an oil change resolve it?
And last I didn't notice any difference driving, and wouldn't of if the ses didnt pop up
And last I didn't notice any difference driving, and wouldn't of if the ses didnt pop up
#4
Hmmmm I agree that an oil change would most likely do the trick but what would bother me is why did the code pop up? Do you have any mods that would lead to that code appearing?? Different oil filter? Do you usually get oil changes sooner than this time around?
#5
The only mod I've mechanically done if u want to call it that is changed the air filter, but I did this back in sept-oct. I usually do oil changes sooner then 3k because I don't do much driving and usually go months without one. When I say I don't do much driving, my last oil change was 4 months ago and I only put on 2k miles in that time. I'm actually at the dealership right now, I'll report back diagnostic. This dealerships been pretty good and honest with me so we'll see
#6
So update, and what I feared. So they ran there diagnostics and could not see any code stored. Long story short, they did the oil change and said if it comes back to bring it in they'll take care of it. He told me it more then likely is ECM reflash. We'll I learned a lesson, just leave things alone
#7
Yeah man, I know what you mean about not being able to drive it especially living in Boston. I would think that has everything to do with it.
My buddy's aunt has a 6th gen '08 Maxima, all hooked up and barely drives it (I'd be surprised if she had 30k miles on it) and I was asking him how the car is treating her etc and he said it's a huge p.i.t.a. because she's always having codes pop up etc and the car is mint; no accidents, blemishes, etc etc
My buddy's aunt has a 6th gen '08 Maxima, all hooked up and barely drives it (I'd be surprised if she had 30k miles on it) and I was asking him how the car is treating her etc and he said it's a huge p.i.t.a. because she's always having codes pop up etc and the car is mint; no accidents, blemishes, etc etc
#8
Update: on Saturday my service engine light came back on, brought it to the dealer but they didn't have time to diagnose it. I'm dropping the car off at the dealer after work. Also I checked the code and it's the same, and no I didn't clear it this time, lol...I'll let u guys know what they have to say this time
#9
Update: on Saturday my service engine light came back on, brought it to the dealer but they didn't have time to diagnose it. I'm dropping the car off at the dealer after work. Also I checked the code and it's the same, and no I didn't clear it this time, lol...I'll let u guys know what they have to say this time
car is running fine, smooth, mileage is normal....any ides?
#10
One thing I will say though, for about a year or so up until I got the p0011 code and the "dirty oil"all I did was city driving, about a week after that day in May I moved away from city so I now commute about 50 miles round trip on the highway to and from work. May be different in your case but for me I believe that code was associated with my driving habits
#11
so this is what happened and why I didn't report back, the second time my check engine light came on was due to evap leak, forget the code but due to not clicking the gas cap tight. So that was either my mistake getting gas or if my gf put gas in.im not sure why I said it was the same code as the first time. I'm sorry I don't have good news for u because the first time the code was cleared and the oil was changed, that was back in May and haven't had a issue since.
One thing I will say though, for about a year or so up until I got the p0011 code and the "dirty oil"all I did was city driving, about a week after that day in May I moved away from city so I now commute about 50 miles round trip on the highway to and from work. May be different in your case but for me I believe that code was associated with my driving habits
One thing I will say though, for about a year or so up until I got the p0011 code and the "dirty oil"all I did was city driving, about a week after that day in May I moved away from city so I now commute about 50 miles round trip on the highway to and from work. May be different in your case but for me I believe that code was associated with my driving habits
#12
Just had this pop up today again on me, checked it with torque app. It's been about 3 months since last oil change, and under 3k miles. Checked oil, plenty in there and smelt fine. Going to have it changed and clear it to see what I got. Car seems to be operating the same. One thing I should mention that I've done was a few months ago cleaned the maf, don't know if that could have any effect.
Last has anyone replaced the camshaft sensors? If so how tough of a job is it.
I appreciate the help on this one, also any certain paremeters I should be checking in the torque app to determine an issue?
Last has anyone replaced the camshaft sensors? If so how tough of a job is it.
I appreciate the help on this one, also any certain paremeters I should be checking in the torque app to determine an issue?
Last edited by Tommy6905; 06-07-2015 at 05:15 PM.
#13
Doing some research looking around at what the symptoms of a faulty camshaft sensor would cause I don't seem to have any. I'm going to start with an oil change and see what that does. If that fails I'll move onto the maf
#15
I would agree, kind of a pain in the ***. What were your driving habits like? I do mostly city driving, also I find it odd that's it been alittle over a year ago to the day since the last time I had the same code Pop up. Wonder if the weather also plays a factor
#17
I tried to switch to synthetic about 6 months and the dealership talked me out of it. I guess I need to demand it this time around
#18
I still pop this code every 1-2K miles. Just went off again last week, I'm having the oil changed this week Mobile1 5-30, I'm changing every 5K. PITA, I suppose one of these days I should take it in to see if my ECU flash is current. Hate going to the dealership.
#19
I hear ya bro, besides this issue...this cars been pretty solid. I'm going to bring it to the dealer weds, get an oil change and see if there's any updates for ecu.
#20
Yeah maybe debris has something to do with it; but you've been on this for a year now, so when are you going to be free of this even though you've since had a couple of oil changes? Again, if it's dirty oil, why is the code appearing only a single bank (bank 1)? In my opinion I think it's your camshaft sensor (and possibly with the crankshaft sensor) that is gradually wearing out. Like you, I do mostly short city driving on my 2006 Infiniti M45. Then on an occasion (96K miles) when I went on a long-distance travel the code popped up for Intake Valve timing Position Sensor bank 1 (P1140), which is pretty the same for P0011. I reset the code with my scanner, and noticed thereafter that the code will come up after a continuous stretch of 50miles, which I don't attain in the city. I'd suggest therefore that you change the camshaft sensor. Of course, it'll get worse and the code will come up at pretty shorter intervals and you might experience intermittent shut down while in motion. If you checked the FSM for the code (P0011 and P0022-Bank 2) the camshaft sensors and the crankshaft sensor are the prime suspects. I changed all four in my car (you have three) and have since had no related codes. Of course, I have tested with long-distance drives too.
Last edited by Costee; 06-08-2015 at 03:47 PM.
#21
Good info costee, I think I'm going to take your advice and just swap it out. Do you know of any tests that can be performed to test the sensors in the meantime since I'll be ordering them online?
Also I don't have any signs of it being faulty, no stalling or hard starts etc.
Also I don't have any signs of it being faulty, no stalling or hard starts etc.
#23
Part of the reason is I drive my work truck 8 hours a day, 5 days a week. I hate driving when I'm off work so that baby just sits
#24
Yeah, see? A buddy of mine, his aunt has a 6th gen that she bought brand new and believe me when I tell you that her car sits. I have 18k miles on my '12 and it really would not surprise me if she had less miles on her '08.
Anyway, long story short: I recall my buddy telling me how pissed she was with her Max because it was throwing codes on her. If I'm you, I'm getting the oil changed and code cleared then making it a point to drive the car on the highway for a couple hours; open it up, get a good feel through your acceleration/deceleration points, etc etc and then firing her back up an hour or two after she's sat to see what she's looking like and if there are still any codes.
Anyway, long story short: I recall my buddy telling me how pissed she was with her Max because it was throwing codes on her. If I'm you, I'm getting the oil changed and code cleared then making it a point to drive the car on the highway for a couple hours; open it up, get a good feel through your acceleration/deceleration points, etc etc and then firing her back up an hour or two after she's sat to see what she's looking like and if there are still any codes.
#25
Good info costee, I think I'm going to take your advice and just swap it out. Do you know of any tests that can be performed to test the sensors in the meantime since I'll be ordering them online?
Also I don't have any signs of it being faulty, no stalling or hard starts etc.
Also I don't have any signs of it being faulty, no stalling or hard starts etc.
Btw, what year is your Max and what mileage?
Last edited by Costee; 06-08-2015 at 11:43 PM.
#26
Unlike in the 6th Gen, but like in the Infiniti M45, your (7th Gen) two camshaft sensors are one and the same with the part # 23731-JA11B. As I did, I suggest you swap the places of the two camshaft sensors, i.e., exchange their positions. If your code shifts to P0021 (b2), then the camshaft sensor is the erring culprit.
Btw, what year is your Max and what mileage?
Btw, what year is your Max and what mileage?
#28
Yes I ordered the camshaft for bank 1 and should have it by Friday. A certified Oem part. I'm going to replace that and get the oil changed and hopefully that solves the issue. If the problem continues I will move onto ordering the crankshaft and swapping that out as well.
Looking at symptoms I think I may be in the early stages of a failing sensor. Car does not have a hard time starting and doesn't stall, but the day the check engine light popped up during my commute home at one time from a stop the car felt like it didn't want to move. I had to floor it get it moving and struggled to get over 20, once it passed 20 it was fine and has been fine since except during idling it seems alittle rough, before my rpm would stay constant at 600rpm, but since if I'm just sitting there it'll do a slight surge then drop back to 600, also when trying to pass someone say on the highway it seems a bit sluggish
I didn't mention this at first because I figured it was just the pesky cvt playing games
Looking at symptoms I think I may be in the early stages of a failing sensor. Car does not have a hard time starting and doesn't stall, but the day the check engine light popped up during my commute home at one time from a stop the car felt like it didn't want to move. I had to floor it get it moving and struggled to get over 20, once it passed 20 it was fine and has been fine since except during idling it seems alittle rough, before my rpm would stay constant at 600rpm, but since if I'm just sitting there it'll do a slight surge then drop back to 600, also when trying to pass someone say on the highway it seems a bit sluggish
I didn't mention this at first because I figured it was just the pesky cvt playing games
#30
#31
Thanks I didn't think so, but wanted to rule that out as possible suspect. Getting an oil change tomorrow and hoping that takes care of things, if not I'll hae the sensor at my door Friday to replace
#32
Hey costee, sorry I got a lot on my mind and just realized what you wrote in regards to switching the sensors. That's a great idea, and I will do this in the morning before I go to the dealer. Also should any type of cleaning take place when removing them and putting them back?
#34
Update: got my oil changed today, cleared the code, and so far so good. I do have a sensor coming in on Friday but as of right now I'm not going to touch anything unless the code comes back. Also checked my oil after and it was definitely lighter in color then before so for me I'm hoping that's all it was, some dirty oil. I gave it a good run today to and from the dealer so I think part of my maintenance will be giving the car a good run on the highway from time to time as I definitely don't do it enough
Edit: double checked with my torque app, and there is no longer a code stored, also before today I checked the test results of the sensors and there was always one saying "not ok", just checked it again and now the sensor reads "ok" along with the rest
Edit: double checked with my torque app, and there is no longer a code stored, also before today I checked the test results of the sensors and there was always one saying "not ok", just checked it again and now the sensor reads "ok" along with the rest
Last edited by Tommy6905; 06-10-2015 at 03:13 PM.
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Kyle Lee Cleveland
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09-28-2015 09:01 PM