7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015) Come in and talk about the 7th generation Maxima

replacing power steering fluid

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-21-2013, 03:43 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
replacing power steering fluid

Do I have to use the recommended Nissan dealer power steering fluid Or can I use any other power steering fluid?

Also has anyone ever used the turkey baster method of taking out all the power steering in the reservoir and just replacing the power steering fluid in the reservoir?
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-21-2013, 04:11 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
lightonthehill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: a meadow south of Atlanta
Posts: 8,143
Originally Posted by GNCMaxima
Do I have to use the recommended Nissan dealer power steering fluid Or can I use any other power steering fluid?

Also has anyone ever used the turkey baster method of taking out all the power steering in the reservoir and just replacing the power steering fluid in the reservoir?

I would have no problem using non-Nissan power steering fluid. Just be sure and use exactly the type specified in the owner's manual, and I would use only fresh fluid.

Be very careful to not get even a tiny speck of dirt into the reservoir (clean the outside very carefully before opening the lid).

And I also would have no problem using the 'turkey baster' method of removing the old fluid. Might not get every drop of the old fluid, but then we don't get every drop of the old oil out during oil changes, tranny fluid changes, coolant changes, etc.

Power steering and power steering fluids have changed very little over recent decades, so you should have no trouble.
lightonthehill is offline  
Old 10-21-2013, 08:56 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Originally Posted by lightonthehill
I would have no problem using non-Nissan power steering fluid. Just be sure and use exactly the type specified in the owner's manual, and I would use only fresh fluid.

Be very careful to not get even a tiny speck of dirt into the reservoir (clean the outside very carefully before opening the lid).

And I also would have no problem using the 'turkey baster' method of removing the old fluid. Might not get every drop of the old fluid, but then we don't get every drop of the old oil out during oil changes, tranny fluid changes, coolant changes, etc.

Power steering and power steering fluids have changed very little over recent decades, so you should have no trouble.

Thank you. I appreciate your feedback.

I'll let you know when I need a ride after my car breaks down on the side of the road lol
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:14 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Finally got to this and it was easy. Made somewhat of a mess using the turkey baster but yeah lol. A few questions

1. The dealership said the fuild was getting bad but still looked some what new. ..is it bad to change this fuild too often? (If price wasn't an issue to buy fuild 24/7)

2. Also is it okay if I'm Somewhat over the max line? The reservoir has a weird shape too it so its hard to tell exactly
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:17 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
chrome91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 7,542
dont have to change it that often, i bet half the cars on the road today have original power steering fluid in them. little bit over the max line wont hurt as long as its just a bit

should be fine using ATF or any power steering fluid. as far as i know, its only Hondas and old luxury cars like Jaguars that need specific power steering fluid
chrome91 is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:25 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
trailer54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Menifee, CA
Posts: 478
Originally Posted by GNCMaxima
Finally got to this and it was easy. Made somewhat of a mess using the turkey baster but yeah lol. A few questions

1. The dealership said the fuild was getting bad but still looked some what new. ..is it bad to change this fuild too often? (If price wasn't an issue to buy fuild 24/7)

2. Also is it okay if I'm Somewhat over the max line? The reservoir has a weird shape too it so its hard to tell exactly
1. No, not at all! Just not friendly on the wallet!!

2. I wouldn't worry about it being a little over the line, it won't have any negative effects on it, unless it's extremely overfilled!! Just remember hot fluid expands so it'll rise a little bit when it's get warm!
trailer54 is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:30 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Originally Posted by trailer54

1. No, not at all! Just not friendly on the wallet!!

2. I wouldn't worry about it being a little over the line, it won't have any negative effects on it, unless it's extremely overfilled!! Just remember hot fluid expands so it'll rise a little bit when it's get warm!
Awesome thanks man. Also I wanted to try to do my brake fluid too...Do you know if this method would work with removing the brake fluid with a turkey baster?
I know your suppose to bleed out the brakes but just curious if you can just replace the old fluid in the brake reservoir with new fluid?

Last edited by GNCMaxima; 10-27-2013 at 03:35 PM.
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:32 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Originally Posted by chrome91
dont have to change it that often, i bet half the cars on the road today have original power steering fluid in them. little bit over the max line wont hurt as long as its just a bit

should be fine using ATF or any power steering fluid. as far as i know, its only Hondas and old luxury cars like Jaguars that need specific power steering fluid
Yeah I guess for the warranty sake I'll keep using nissan recommend fluids lol
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:49 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
trailer54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Menifee, CA
Posts: 478
Originally Posted by GNCMaxima
Awesome thanks man. Also I wanted to try to do my brake fluid too...Do you know if this method would work with removing the brake fluid with a turkey baster?
I know your suppose to bleed out the brakes but just curious if you can just replace the old fluid in the brake reservoir with new fluid?

Of course anytime! I wouldn't use the same method for brake fluid, brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it actually collects water and over time you will actually have small amount of water in your brake fluid which produces a squishy pedal feel, and most importantly lowers the performance of the fluid, example; lowers the boiling point and freezing point of the fluid, also water in the brake fluid can cause parts to rust which is obviously bad!! Definitely recommend a complete flush of the fluid when it comes to brakes!!

Last edited by trailer54; 10-27-2013 at 04:32 PM.
trailer54 is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 04:09 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Originally Posted by trailer54
Of course anytime! I wouldn't use the same method for brake fluid, brake fluid is Hydroscopic meaning it actually collects water and over time you will actually have small amount of water in your brake fluid which produces a squishy pedal feel, and most importantly lowers the performance of the fluid, example; lowers the boiling point and freezing point of the fluid, also water in the brake fluid can cause parts to rust which is obviously bad!! Definitely recommend a complete flush of the fluid when it comes to brakes!!

Good info man. When you mean by rusted parts does that include rust to the rotors and brakes etc..?
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 04:31 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
trailer54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Menifee, CA
Posts: 478
Originally Posted by GNCMaxima
Good info man. When you mean by rusted parts does that include rust to the rotors and brakes etc..?
Hygroscopic my bad, damn autocorrect... Oh no as in inside of brake lines, master cylinders, calipers!! Just the internal parts of the brakes! It's usually recommended every 2 years or so for brake fluid for that reason! Hope that helps brother!
trailer54 is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 05:15 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Originally Posted by trailer54

Hygroscopic my bad, damn autocorrect... Oh no as in inside of brake lines, master cylinders, calipers!! Just the internal parts of the brakes! It's usually recommended every 2 years or so for brake fluid for that reason! Hope that helps brother!
So why do they recommend doing changing your brake fuild so early? I can't tell what the color is suppose to be either lol
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 05:19 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
chrome91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 7,542
Originally Posted by GNCMaxima
So why do they recommend doing changing your brake fuild so early? I can't tell what the color is suppose to be either lol
brake fluid should be a honey gold or clear, over time it gets to be a darker colour and there can be sludge in the reservoir

as said, you technically are supposed to crack the bleeders and all that when changing the brake fluid, but on my stuff i just use a turkey baster and drain/refill the reservoir. if youre around snow, the bleeders can rust up and seize. sometimes the bleeders then snap off with no effort. if youre in Texas i dont think thats a problem for you lol

Last edited by chrome91; 10-27-2013 at 05:23 PM.
chrome91 is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 06:03 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Maxgig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,724
FYI, if you use the turkey baster method for your reservoir by the time you need new brakes pads on your car (2 or 3 yrs) your brakes will be bled and any old fluid will be removed then.
Maxgig is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 06:27 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Originally Posted by Maxgig
FYI, if you use the turkey baster method for your reservoir by the time you need new brakes pads on your car (2 or 3 yrs) your brakes will be bled and any old fluid will be removed then.
Yeah Ive had the car for a year but I drive more then the average person 25k in a year :/

So are you saying I shouldn't replace my brake fluid? I think my rear brakes are going out, but My front ones are still good.
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 06:27 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
chrome91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 7,542
that depends if you crack the bleeder when pushing in the caliper piston though, ive done hundreds of brake jobs and havent cracked the bleeder once

theres no harm in replacing your brake fluid if you want, i usually replace mine every 3-4 years
chrome91 is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 06:29 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Originally Posted by chrome91
brake fluid should be a honey gold or clear, over time it gets to be a darker colour and there can be sludge in the reservoir

as said, you technically are supposed to crack the bleeders and all that when changing the brake fluid, but on my stuff i just use a turkey baster and drain/refill the reservoir. if youre around snow, the bleeders can rust up and seize. sometimes the bleeders then snap off with no effort. if youre in Texas i dont think thats a problem for you lol

Haha yeah Texas never gets that cold. The fluid looks dark. So there's no harm in a Turkey baster drain and fill of the reservoir? As long as I clean it up and make sure nothing gets in it?
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 06:31 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Originally Posted by chrome91
that depends if you crack the bleeder when pushing in the caliper piston though, ive done hundreds of brake jobs and havent cracked the bleeder once

theres no harm in replacing your brake fluid if you want, i usually replace mine every 3-4 years

Where is the bleeder located at? Would hitting a curb at high speeds mess that up?
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 06:32 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
chrome91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 7,542
you can, but since your bleed screws are probably clean i would eventually do it properly with cracking the bleeders

bleed screw is on the caliper, no way you can damage it on a curb. only problem area with them is they can rust and brake off which is why i dont ever crack them open

look like this

chrome91 is offline  
Old 10-27-2013, 06:36 PM
  #20  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
GNCMaxima's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 441
Originally Posted by chrome91
you can, but since your bleed screws are probably clean i would eventually do it properly with cracking the bleeders

bleed screw is on the caliper, no way you can damage it on a curb. only problem area with them is they can rust and brake off which is why i dont ever crack them open

look like this

So if that screw was rusted or had any fluid on it I would need to replace it asap?

Thank you for the information too
GNCMaxima is offline  
Old 10-28-2013, 06:03 AM
  #21  
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (5)
 
vball_max's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North Shore, MA
Posts: 1,795
The turkey baster method wont work on brakes. The power steering system circulates the fluid which mixes the new fluid in the reservoir with the old fluid in the system. The brake system just pushes the fluid one direction towards the caliper so the old fluid would stay in the lines even with new fluid in the reservoir.
vball_max is offline  
Old 10-28-2013, 07:16 AM
  #22  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Maxgig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,724
Originally Posted by vball_max
The turkey baster method wont work on brakes. The power steering system circulates the fluid which mixes the new fluid in the reservoir with the old fluid in the system. The brake system just pushes the fluid one direction towards the caliper so the old fluid would stay in the lines even with new fluid in the reservoir.
I'm aware that brake fluid is pushed through the brake system, (this isn't my first car). What I'm suggesting is that he change his old fluid in the reservoir and when his pads are changed he will have cleaner fluid in the system. If he drives like a mad man or does autocrossing of course the fluid would need to be changed totally. But for normal everyday driving the turkey baster will work just fine.
Maxgig is offline  
Old 10-28-2013, 07:52 AM
  #23  
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (5)
 
vball_max's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North Shore, MA
Posts: 1,795
Originally Posted by Maxgig
I'm aware that brake fluid is pushed through the brake system, (this isn't my first car). What I'm suggesting is that he change his old fluid in the reservoir and when his pads are changed he will have cleaner fluid in the system. If he drives like a mad man or does autocrossing of course the fluid would need to be changed totally. But for normal everyday driving the turkey baster will work just fine.
interesting thought......but i don't think I agree. Even when you push back the piston to change the pads, there will still be old fluid in the caliper, in the line between the main cylinder and and the caliper, and in the main cylinder. When you press the brake pedal for the first time after replacing pads, the new fluid needs to fill the cylinder first, so its likely that the new fluid wont even get into the line. I don't think that the "new" fluid in the cylinder would mix with the old fluid all the way down the line and in the caliper since its essentially a static system.

Personally, I just order 4 speed bleeders for $28.00 which makes it really easy to completely flush the system. That reminds me....I need to order them for my 2012 maxima.

Last edited by vball_max; 10-28-2013 at 07:59 AM.
vball_max is offline  
Old 10-28-2013, 05:15 PM
  #24  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
chrome91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 7,542
Originally Posted by GNCMaxima
So if that screw was rusted or had any fluid on it I would need to replace it asap?

Thank you for the information too
no not ASAP, it shouldnt leak unless its loose. it will naturally get a bit rusty, but when it rusts enough to seize youre in trouble.

even if it breaks off it wont leak, on my old rusty pickup i replaced a rear brake line and went to bleed it, just put a bit of pressure with a socket and the bleeder snapped right off i think i ended up bleeding it from the line or something, but i never replaced the bleeder and it never leaked
chrome91 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rbuswell
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
8
11-17-2016 04:54 AM
vingodine
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
45
05-21-2016 12:46 PM
02PearlSE
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
8
10-07-2015 02:12 AM
Mrbizness1
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
4
08-18-2015 08:43 PM
scarletsosa
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
2
08-17-2015 09:09 PM



Quick Reply: replacing power steering fluid



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:26 PM.