How to tell if your battery has gone south?
#1
How to tell if your battery has gone south?
I've got a 2010 Maxima S purchased February 2010 and averaging 9K miles/year. Average trip duration is probably 5-7 miles.
I recently drove ten miles to a destination, parked, and turned the engine off. I then turned the ignition to ON and listened to the radio at low volumes for an hour. GPS, radar, and my MP3 player were also car-powered. No HVAC, no interior or exterior lights except those behind the gauge cluster and buttons.
After an hour, I went to start the car. The dash lights flickered and I heard a rhythmic electrical clatter. The starter motor did not turn. At one point, all controls became unresponsive to all input for ten minutes. I eventually had to get the car jumped.
At no point during or after this experience did I see a dash indicator showing that the battery might be low. My local Nissan dealership says the car does not have this feature, which seems odd where the same car is too smart to let me lock the keys in it.
Does this sound like a set of circumstances that should have caused my battery to die? I don't feel like I can trust the car right now. If not the car itself, what method do you use to tell if your battery is going south?
I recently drove ten miles to a destination, parked, and turned the engine off. I then turned the ignition to ON and listened to the radio at low volumes for an hour. GPS, radar, and my MP3 player were also car-powered. No HVAC, no interior or exterior lights except those behind the gauge cluster and buttons.
After an hour, I went to start the car. The dash lights flickered and I heard a rhythmic electrical clatter. The starter motor did not turn. At one point, all controls became unresponsive to all input for ten minutes. I eventually had to get the car jumped.
At no point during or after this experience did I see a dash indicator showing that the battery might be low. My local Nissan dealership says the car does not have this feature, which seems odd where the same car is too smart to let me lock the keys in it.
Does this sound like a set of circumstances that should have caused my battery to die? I don't feel like I can trust the car right now. If not the car itself, what method do you use to tell if your battery is going south?
#2
you can always just test the battery with a multimeter...but you had your radio on for and hour and never started the car during that time? that WILL kill your battery no doubt about it. But after you got it jumped if your battery was fairly new or just in good condition the alternator will charge it back up in about 30 min or less. That is just old school knowledge about cars I was taught.
#3
I guess I just expected more from the battery. The radio and electronics couldn't have pulled more than 15W between them. I don't know what the car's standard load is in the ON position, but I'll be more careful next time.
#4
I'm not sure of the specs between cars but I do know a radio stock or aftermarket left on for an hour will kill your battery whether its brand new or not. congrats you can trust your car again lol
#8
Having your car in the "ON" position vs the "ACC" Position are completely different in terms of current draw(it draws more). Had you put the car in ACC, your battery shouldn't have died. Next time, remember to keep it only in the ACC position.
#9
Even in ACC position, the OPs issues have happened to me a number of times, when I would turn on the radio for an hour or so when detailing the car.
After being stranded with a "newish" car and the embarrassment of it. I eventually gave up on the stock battery. I replaced it with a "decent" local auto parts store replacement battery, and it's been fine ever since. The factory battery is **** poor in my opinion, as was the factory tires which I also replaced before the end of their life.
After being stranded with a "newish" car and the embarrassment of it. I eventually gave up on the stock battery. I replaced it with a "decent" local auto parts store replacement battery, and it's been fine ever since. The factory battery is **** poor in my opinion, as was the factory tires which I also replaced before the end of their life.
#10
Have you checked the fluid levels in all of the cells? The battery in these cars is NOT maintance free for some crazy reason....
It takes less than 5 minutes, open the hood of your car, and carefully pry the two caps off of the top of the battery. THERE IS BATTERY ACID IN THERE OBVIOUSLY, so be careful and take your time. It won't jump out at you but there could be some residual on the caps you are taking off. Just pry slowly and firmly, they are only held in by friction. I find it best to start at one end, then go to other, and finally the middle to remove it and pry a little bit at each one. The extruded ends that go into the battery cells are about 1/2" long. Use a flashlight and see what the fluid level is in each cell. It should come up to just above the bottom of the plastic "fingers" in the cell. If it is below that level top it off with DISTILLED water. DO NOT USE TAP WATER, ions in tap water can cause fouling of the cell (even water through a brita contains ions). Go to your supermarket, target, wally world...they all sell DI water, RO would suffice as well, for about $1/gallon, you won't need that much (hopefully). Just pour water into each of the cells up to that level.
If the cells get to dry, the liquid level is to low, than you run the risk of damaging the cell. This can cause a new battery to seem weak and not properly hold a charge. If it does to get too low then you can permanently damage the cell and you will have to replace the battery.
It takes less than 5 minutes, open the hood of your car, and carefully pry the two caps off of the top of the battery. THERE IS BATTERY ACID IN THERE OBVIOUSLY, so be careful and take your time. It won't jump out at you but there could be some residual on the caps you are taking off. Just pry slowly and firmly, they are only held in by friction. I find it best to start at one end, then go to other, and finally the middle to remove it and pry a little bit at each one. The extruded ends that go into the battery cells are about 1/2" long. Use a flashlight and see what the fluid level is in each cell. It should come up to just above the bottom of the plastic "fingers" in the cell. If it is below that level top it off with DISTILLED water. DO NOT USE TAP WATER, ions in tap water can cause fouling of the cell (even water through a brita contains ions). Go to your supermarket, target, wally world...they all sell DI water, RO would suffice as well, for about $1/gallon, you won't need that much (hopefully). Just pour water into each of the cells up to that level.
If the cells get to dry, the liquid level is to low, than you run the risk of damaging the cell. This can cause a new battery to seem weak and not properly hold a charge. If it does to get too low then you can permanently damage the cell and you will have to replace the battery.
#12
I'm thinking that my battery is not all that great either. Never really had a problem but recently the car had a very rough time starting on two occasions. One occasion it didn't fully start and I had to press the button again to get the engine to stay on.
Weird no? It's only a 2010 with 26k miles.
Weird no? It's only a 2010 with 26k miles.
#13
[QUOTE=09Maxima_Sam;8352247=
After being stranded with a "newish" car and the embarrassment of it. I eventually gave up on the stock battery. I replaced it with a "decent" local auto parts store replacement battery, and it's been fine ever since. The factory battery is **** poor in my opinion, as was the factory tires which I also replaced before the end of their life.[/QUOTE]
100% agreement.
After being stranded with a "newish" car and the embarrassment of it. I eventually gave up on the stock battery. I replaced it with a "decent" local auto parts store replacement battery, and it's been fine ever since. The factory battery is **** poor in my opinion, as was the factory tires which I also replaced before the end of their life.[/QUOTE]
100% agreement.
#14
I also totally agree with 09Maxima Sam. This summer I noticed when I had my car doors open for a short time while detailing, the starter did a gonna suck what's left in that box u call a battery.. Thirty years of experience told me to heave-ho that lead anchor. Thought maybe I got a lemon of a battery, but your right those thinks are only good for holding down winter tempo's. lol As for the tires another disappointing feature of our Maxima's. Besides these little bugs, still love my max.
#15
Good thread. Lots of meaningful replies.
Yes, the battery used in both the 6th and 7th gen Maximas is of very medium quality. My '04 Maxima battery lasted three years, and I expect my '09 battery to give up the ghost no later than this summer. In the old days, I had batteries last as long as 7 years in Datsuns. The big clue is when the lights, etc, work, but pushing 'START' gives only a clicking noise. If the battery is fairly new, that may mean simply recharging it (and maybe adding distilled water). If the battery is over two years old when trouble happens, dump it for a real battery.
To make the battery last longer, I never leave doors or trunk lid open longer than necessary (keeps small lights on), never run accessories (such as the radio) when the engine is not running, and never use the option to have the headlights stay on for several seconds after I have parked the car and turned off the engine.
Yes, the Maxima battery is NOT sealed, and yes, I have had to add distilled water on occasion.
The battery may be average, and the tires may be average, but overall, I consider my Maxima to be well above average.
Yes, the battery used in both the 6th and 7th gen Maximas is of very medium quality. My '04 Maxima battery lasted three years, and I expect my '09 battery to give up the ghost no later than this summer. In the old days, I had batteries last as long as 7 years in Datsuns. The big clue is when the lights, etc, work, but pushing 'START' gives only a clicking noise. If the battery is fairly new, that may mean simply recharging it (and maybe adding distilled water). If the battery is over two years old when trouble happens, dump it for a real battery.
To make the battery last longer, I never leave doors or trunk lid open longer than necessary (keeps small lights on), never run accessories (such as the radio) when the engine is not running, and never use the option to have the headlights stay on for several seconds after I have parked the car and turned off the engine.
Yes, the Maxima battery is NOT sealed, and yes, I have had to add distilled water on occasion.
The battery may be average, and the tires may be average, but overall, I consider my Maxima to be well above average.
#16
My battery just went in my Maxima so I just went and bought an Optima Yellow top battery. Now they will last with the radio on without the car running for more than an hour and still start the car. I actually had it tested and there was 1000 CCA. Strong battery, but expensive $200.
#19
I've got a 2010 Maxima S purchased February 2010 and averaging 9K miles/year. Average trip duration is probably 5-7 miles.
I recently drove ten miles to a destination, parked, and turned the engine off. I then turned the ignition to ON and listened to the radio at low volumes for an hour. GPS, radar, and my MP3 player were also car-powered. No HVAC, no interior or exterior lights except those behind the gauge cluster and buttons.
After an hour, I went to start the car. The dash lights flickered and I heard a rhythmic electrical clatter. The starter motor did not turn. At one point, all controls became unresponsive to all input for ten minutes. I eventually had to get the car jumped.
At no point during or after this experience did I see a dash indicator showing that the battery might be low. My local Nissan dealership says the car does not have this feature, which seems odd where the same car is too smart to let me lock the keys in it.
Does this sound like a set of circumstances that should have caused my battery to die? I don't feel like I can trust the car right now. If not the car itself, what method do you use to tell if your battery is going south?
I recently drove ten miles to a destination, parked, and turned the engine off. I then turned the ignition to ON and listened to the radio at low volumes for an hour. GPS, radar, and my MP3 player were also car-powered. No HVAC, no interior or exterior lights except those behind the gauge cluster and buttons.
After an hour, I went to start the car. The dash lights flickered and I heard a rhythmic electrical clatter. The starter motor did not turn. At one point, all controls became unresponsive to all input for ten minutes. I eventually had to get the car jumped.
At no point during or after this experience did I see a dash indicator showing that the battery might be low. My local Nissan dealership says the car does not have this feature, which seems odd where the same car is too smart to let me lock the keys in it.
Does this sound like a set of circumstances that should have caused my battery to die? I don't feel like I can trust the car right now. If not the car itself, what method do you use to tell if your battery is going south?
#22
Same here with my 2009 Maxima with 37,000 miles. Battery just died after i finshed washing and detailing the car. Real embarrassing when your newish car won't start and I have to ask my wife to take me to Sears in her 2004 Camry.
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